hollowneck

Andy - I left the "pimply" plates off the hull of my Diana partially for just this reason. I am also not a big fan of the shiny copper look on hulls, especially large ones with lots o' surface area to see (and yes, I realize over time copper bits may acquire a nicer looking "patina"). I did use the Chris' copper plates in my Victory Models' Mercury build. I can attest that there copper plates are accurately-sized and the imprinted bolt/nailing patterns look great when viewed up-close. It's a personal preference for me too: I'd rather see a beautiful expanse of finely finished hardwood on a sailing ship hull. Chris, have you gotten any quotes on how much the perspex case for your Vic is going to cost?! Ron

Michael, I just visited the Vasa Museet 2 weeks ago with a Model Ship Club colleague. Your work is excellent. I hadn't noticed your posts until today. There are many builders here who appreciate your attention to detail - and your dedication to creating a stunning replica. Count me as one of them, please. Seeing this reconstucted 17th-C warship "in the flesh" was an amazing (and all day!) experience. We had the opportunity to spend some time with Fred Hocker (the museum's archaeologist and lead researcher) who was kind enough to explain the "latest" finds (and concerns). The reconstruction of the ship is now complete and Dr. Hocker claims that it is 98% original. He's now working on documenting and doing a reconstruction of the anchors, specifically the wrought iron metal work. The Vasa itself is nothing short of extraordinary; a sailing vessel that's nearly 400 years old. The restoration has taken more than 50 years - however- and it's had the full support of the Swedish government. The Vasa is also Sweden's #1 tourist money-spinner; there were more than 1 million visitors last year. Interestingly, although the 10th scale model adjacent to the real thing was impressive, I found the "screaming colors" of the decorations to be garish. As Dr. Hocker confirmed, the actual paint colors which have been studiously researched would have been much more muted. The materials used to create various colors of the day would have been considerably subdued, more pastel-like. In fact, as our conversation about original colors was happening, a young woman walked up and presented a sample of her grandfather's paints to Mr. Hocker so he could advise which color to paint the upper side stern "clinker" panels was more accurate. Of three choices she showed us, Hocker confirmed that the more "terra cotta" color looked the most accurate. This color was a very muted reddish color, not a bright crimson. This may be too esoteric, and if so, my apologies. I spend an inordinate amount of time thinking about and then executing color choices on my models. Mostly I try to "paint with wood"- but I also select finishes and paint hues that attempt to replicate what might have been available centuries ago. Just my "thing." Again, your work is inspiring, both your research and skills to execute what you see. You will truly have one of a very few "accurate" and amazing models of the Vasa when she's completed! Ron PS Have you seen Clayton Johnson's HUGE Vasa model? http://finearts.blog.gustavus.edu/2013/01/18/swedish-warship-vasa-model-on-display-at-gustavus/

Christian, The recently published, "The Sailing Frigate," is money well spent. It has a wealth of high-quality model photos, many of which we've rarely seen, and very good writing that encapsulates a good deal of the developmental history of the "nimble warship." It's a British publication, so the emphasis is where one would imagine it to be, but this isn't a criticism. There are other very good books on Europe's bellicose navies. Your Diana is looking great. Clever idea on the secret air passage flag lockers to blow out dust in the captain's cabin. I'm hoping to get a case made for mine so I needn't worry about dust and such. I've made a (large) base but I discovered that a matching acrylic cover will cost slightly more than my entire build budget for the bashed kit! Oh well... I'd also like to acknowledge that your previous build log on MSW (V1.0) was an inspiration to me; the quality of your work was something I tried to emulate. Regards, Ron

Ortho85, If you manage to avoid some of the worst kits (and their horrible instructions) and stick with this hobby, you'll find that what matters most is a good set of PLANS; these are the detailed sections, elevations and profiles of a ship that are mostly drawn in a relevant building scale. As you gain experience you'll not need "instructions" very much (or at all) and you will know the techniques and sequences involved in building a good kit. In my opinion, the best kit plans come from Caldercraft (UK), Victory Models (Amati/Italy) and Model Shipways (ModelExpo). With regard to instructions specifically, there is "no contest" as any of Chuck Passaro's kits available from MS are the best. I have yet to build a Euromodel kit but I understand their plans are very good. Hope this information helps. I know all of the manufacturers mentioned here will ship to Oz. I think both Caldercraft and Victory Models have distribution there. Ron

I'm glad the damage was only minor. Everyone who has been in this hobby for a while has had an "oops moment!" My worst (so far - as to not invite the shipwreck Syrens), came when I was loading my Mercury into the back seat of my car. I'd measured the opening carefully. No problems; the complete, rigged model will sit nicely on the rear seat, on a cradle. I even cushioned the ride with pillows on either side of the hull (yes, my wife knows I borrowed them). I got to where I was going (a ship club meeting) just fine. I carefully removed the pillows, threw them in the trunk. I was feeling confident, smug even. Made it this far from home, what can possibly happen? I'm certainly not going to drop it. In a split second of inattention, as I carefully slid the ship off the rear seat, the top of the main mast clipped the door frame and the topmast down to the top snapped right off! Rigging went limp. Many will know what this looks like. I actually closed my eyes for a moment and winced, wondering what repair job awaited me. I took it into the meeting and with zen master steadiness (I held my breath), I carefully placed the end of the broken mast where it snapped-off and I swung it up and leveraged it into position. Voila! The mast centered itself on the break, the split wood aligned perfectly and all the rigging went taut. There wasn't even a break mark on the mast and - believe it or not - I didn't have to glue anything. Not one line needed attention (of many). It's 2 years since then and I haven't touched the broken mast since and I believe only one person knows what happened: me. I'm sure this doesn't happen that often. And, yes - I do thank The Force every so often for my good fortune. Ron

Steve, Your most welcome, hope my pics helped you to decide; it is a very nice looking model. You are correct in that the rigging is a little easier than a three-masted ship like the Pegasus. I've replied quite late to your reply and hope you're busy on the build! I have my Mercury in a glass case that also shows a nice Carronade replica (from Model Expo) and a color print of an old watercolor of the ship's captain, A. Kazarski. This kit is one of the best. Amati's high-end is very, very good. Regards, Ron

Ray, You're doing an excellent job. I have peeked-in to your build log from time-to-time. I completed my Diana last year and it was a superb kit - very challenging, but also very rewarding. You may have seen my completed Diana in the gallery. If not, just search on Diana in the site's engine and you will see 10 photos I posted. Although one can follow the masting/rigging plans from Caldercraft, I'd recommend studying Vol 4 of The David Antscherl book from Seawatch Books (Swan class build). This helped me immensely to create more accurate masts, spars and - of course, extensive rigging as well as belaying plans. You may want to look into this BEFORE you complete the weather deck furniture and rail details. A fully-rigged Diana is a most impressive model. Steady-on, keep it shipshape and in Bristol fashion! She'll reward you. Ron

Nice job on those carronades, Len! Ron

Jaro, Beautiful work. One question: are the blocks from JerzyBin in Austria?? They appear to be either pear or boxwood. Thanks for your well shot photos. I'm anxious to see what you choose for your next build! Ron

Lloyd Warner's blocks are very nice but as Jay has mentioned one needs to strop and drill them out. I have also used Jerzy's (Austria), and they are excellent and more finished (but made of pear). Both are roughly the same cost (about 30 cents ea.). Jerzy's is fast but you have postage from Europe Which is not a big deal -obviously. Order well in-advance with Warner, it can take a few weeks. Ron

Welcome Back Christian. Good to see your work again. Ray has posted a new Diana Build Log and I'm certain he (for one) will appreciate the time you've taken to re-post many of your build pics. Your superb work continues; I do like the open quarterdeck too but I chose to frame mine in with the same wood as the exterior bulwarks which also makes for a nice contrast with the cannons. I also like to have figures on my completed models. I also chose to mount lanterns on the rear of each top (but not the taffrail). I'll be waiting anxiously to see how you do your masting and rigging. Ron

Ray, Good Luck with your Diana. I just completed mine this past December. This is the oldest but one of the best Caldercraft kits. Overlook the poor instructions, toss 'em. The plans are quite good however, the materials are excellent. I loved upgrading this kit. I have some photos in the completed ship gallery here you may want to look at - you know, inspiration! As you'll see, I decided to not copper her. I agree that the Victory Models copper plates are considerably better (I used them on the VM/Amati Mercury brig kit, same scale). YOu may want to think about this approach. Diana's lower hull lines are beautiful and the walnut planking does finish-up quite nicely. Cheers! Ron

Steve, As others have said, you can't go wrong with either of these Victory Models/Amati builds. Other than substituting boxwood for the bulwarks, I built the Mercury out of the box; the plans are excellent, the instructions pretty good. The quality of all components (particularly the etched brass and laser-cut wood) is superb. I enjoyed building this model very much and it was my 4th kit. I've attached some pictures of the finished ship to help you with your decision. A nice (MDF) baseboard is included Press on!! Ron