hollowneck

Two bags worth just ordered (and some other 3D gubbins)...

Two bags worth just ordered (and some other 3D gubbins)...

..like more 3D pear blocks.

..like more 3D pear blocks.

Two bags worth just ordered (and some other 3D gubbins)...

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

Blue Ensign in his build log has  gone into some detail about this. I will probably position the binnacle off to one side and slightly forward of the wheel.
 
I also left the  chimney off the cabinet.
It made no sense where there is no space for a lamp.🤔
No lamp compartment, no smoke, and no requirement for a chimney.
 
I am looking at making two smaller single cabinets that will stand each side of the wheel.
 
B.E.

Great progress Richard, the deck and fitting/fixtures look very neat! 

Progress has been slow due to lack of spare time. Nevertheless there has been some. 
 
The guns are finished and in place on the ship. Only the breeching ropes were rigged and this was done off-ship.




Cheers

Nicely done Richard.👍
 
B.E.

A nice tweak Richard. Always tricky to get the shape right but yours looks very good 
 
David 

More progress, but not a lot to see.
 
The eyepins/ringbolts were all added, with blocks seized to them where required, mostly those associated with the steering tackle. The instructions call for these latter blocks to be 3mm in size, but to me, these looked overscale and 2mm blocks were substituted. The ringbolts were made by adding a brass ring to the PE eyepins.
 
All pin racks and cleats were glued in place.
 
The tiller is in place but not glued.

The rudder has been sitting out of harm's way, but was now fixed to the hull. Following Blue Ensign's example, a rudder coat was fashioned to fit around the rudder where it passed through the lower counter. I made one of these for my Pegasus build but couldn't remember how I'd done it so I referred to B.E's detailed description of his method in his Alert build log (here) and I more-or-less followed his method. Briefly, the coat consists of a canvas "bag" held against the rudder and the hull by a metal plate. I made the "metal" plate first, getting the inside shape by using a piece of the fret that had contained the lower counter, and then simply eyeballing the outer edge to give me a horseshoe shaped plate. Card was used. I had no fine material for the bag so used surgical tape instead. The plate and the tape were glued to the hull, leaving the tape baggy enough to stuff some cotton wool into it and then moulded it to suggest a bag. Once satisfied with this, I painted the coat with a mix of black water-based acrylic and PVA.
 
Card and the piece of fret used to get the inner shape of the plate.

The partly stuffed bag.



Cheers

They are available!!!   
 

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

Thank you for this primer in proper usage of images, Chris.

The internet can be a wonderful place! It is especially wonderful if you are searching for images to add to a post at Model Ship World. You can find thousands of images of ships online!
 
BUT (and this is a big but) you probably don't own those images! And that means you can't simply add them willy-nilly to your content! Many images you find by doing an internet search are licensed, meaning there are rules that govern how the images may be used. If you violate the terms of the licensing agreement, you are breaking the law. If you share those images to MSW, you may even be placing MSW in legal jeopardy.
 
There is a way to determine whether you can share an image you find online, and it's pretty easy to do. I will demonstrate this for you here. Let's start with a Google search for HMS Victory. The search results look like this:
 

 
 
In the upper right corner of the results page, look for the "Tools" drop-down menu and click it.
 

 
 
This action opens a second toolbar, from which you should next select the  "Usage rights" drop-down menu.
 

 
 
This brings up a menu with three options:

 
"Not filtered by license" shows all the results of a search. This is the default option. "Commercial & other licenses" typically means you're going to have to pay a fee to use the image. Images from stock image vendors such as Shutterstock and Alamy fall into this category, as do most other results. "Creative Commons licenses" is the option you want. Be prepared to see a greatly diminished set of results!  
Clicking that option brings up only images that are generally okay for you to use, but with caveats, as I'll show you shortly. Note in this image that TWO of the first three results shown in the "not filtered" set are gone now!
 
 

 
At this point, you still have some homework to do -- you need to actually read the licensing terms and see what conditions you need to fulfill in order to use the image. Let's look at the first image on its Wikimedia page.
 
 

 
Scrolling down that page brings us to the licensing information, which says that you are free to share the work. Hooray!
 

 
But wait! Not so fast! Even for this shareable image there are conditions you must fulfill! For this image, you must "give appropriate credit, provide a link to the license, and indicate if changes were made."
 

 
What does that mean? That means you must cite your source, i.e., tell us where you obtained the photo. Here's what that looks like in a kit review I posted:

 
For comparison, let's go back to our search results, set the usage rights option to "Commercial & other licenses", and then click on one of the results from Alamy, a stock image vendor. We'll follow the links until we get to the image at Alamy's website.
 
 

 
 
There are two very important things to take notice of at the Alamy image page. The first is that the image is NOT free to use! If you want to use it, you have to pay $39 for the privilege.
 
 

 
 
The second important thing to take note of is that the image is watermarked. A watermark indicates that someone is claiming ownership of the image. After you pay Alamy the $39 fee, they will send you an unmarked copy of the image. See how that works? If you share a watermarked image to MSW, that's a dead giveaway that you didn't pay the fee!
 
 

 
 
Yes, it takes a bit more work to research usage rights, but you need to do it, because
it's the honest and legal thing to do it helps ensure that our beloved forum doesn't end up in legal hot water and, probably most importantly for forum members, the staff will delete photos from your posts that they have determined violate usage rights!  
Thanks for your cooperation!

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

A problem, for sure. But – a good one to have.

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.

 
 

Excellent. I've added a number of your 1:48 pear wood pins to my latest model. My scale is 1:64, but the 9mm ones don't look terribly out of scale. However, as soon as you've stocked the 7.4mm in pear wood color I'll jump on my next order!
 
To see how good Chuck's new 3D belaying pins look I'm attaching a close up of my just completed HM Cracker gun brig. Keen eyes will note that adjacent to these pins are slightly smaller ones with rigging lines tied off to them; these are the smallest available (old school) brass ones: I paint these guys brown. I also use them because I have been paranoid that tying-off to the resin ones might be problematical with taut rigging lines. I'm anxious to see if the smaller 7.4 mm ones will hold the belaying line tension and not break.
 
AND – your new 3D swivels look wonderful. A tip: I apply a light dusting of metallic weathering powder to black 3D resin (as well as some P/E parts) to create a more convincing metallic finish. The plastic modeling guys use this stuff everywhere. The photo here also shows this effect on the carronades and the straps on the gaff jaws.