CPDDET

They are very susceptible to side shock 

And fairly inexpensive 

My mind is still dwelling on this, crazy huh?

Another cutting method might be a very thin cutoff disk in a dermal tool? 

I have some of these disks, very thin and quite fragile. But they cut beautifully. 

I'll check the name and post it.

After some thought it may help to dab a bit of CA on the dowel after wrapping the wire. This would aid in holding things while making the cut. Afterwards just drop the dowel and wire into acetone to dissolve the CA.

Hmm. Cutting with any kind of nippers will not provide a truly flat surface to butt against each other, if that's desirable. Never tried using a fine tooth jewelers saw or razor saw but that might work. But would have to make the cut while the wire is still wrapped around the dowel or drill bit shank. There would also be some loss of material (the kerf of the saw blade) causing you to end up with a smaller ID than desired. However,  using a slightly larger dowel / drill bit shank could compensate for that. Perfection may not be attainable?

I find wrapping wire around the shank of a properly sized drill bit works best for me. The real challenge is keeping the diameter of the wire to scale. If the actual ring was made from 1/2 inch diameter, round, metal stock, then at scale the diameter would be 1/128 inch? Probably 36 - 40 gauge wire?

Looking good!

Welcome to the group!

Bryan, welcome to this very rewarding and sometimes frustrating hobby. I'm sure you will find all the help you need here.

Dave

Welcome, Mike!

2 hours ago, JohnU said:

The general approach seems to be a glass slide over or under the bars. This doesn't quite make sense in terms of the prototype and photos. I'm inclined to think there are actually not bars, but metal webbing holding multiple panes. As in a stained glass window. This might be better approximated by using a glass slide and painting the lines on it's surface. This idea appears consistent with the best photo of the cabin. Although there seems to be some sort of box over the skylight that's not on the plans. Some sort of afterthought perhaps.

There are metal bars that protect the skylight glass. I was on Bluenose II a few years back and took a picture. Now if I could only find the photo.

There have been several different methods by different modelers for the windows / bars. Check out other build logs. I used straight pins for the bars. Some people used microscope glass slides for the windows.

Welcome Paul, good to have you aboard. 

Welcome Tom, I'm sure you'll find help and some interesting build logs here.

Dave

Nice, clean crafting on your first model. You look to be a natural!

Dave

Welcome Mark, lots of help to be found here.

Dave

Welcome home, sailor!

Welcome. I'm sure, with help from this community,  you will be successful.  You may want to seek out advice on the best order of steps to follow.

Dave

Made the first part of the assembly that will attach the fore boom to the foremast, a small link with opposing holes. After doing measurements I drew out my plan on graph paper at a much larger scale, something I didn’t do at the start of my build but have learned the hard way it’s very necessary for me.

I started with a piece of 1/8 inch square brass stock in the mill and drilled opposing holes with a #66 bit. This hole size will accommodate the 1/32 brass round stock which the link slides onto. I then used a small end mill to shape the opposing side to the proper thickness.

Then used small escapement files to finish shaping the piece. A handheld vice really helped to hold the small part while filing.

Tomorrow is News Years Day, and a football day as well, so probably wont do any further work till Monday at the earliest.

Happy New Year to all!!

Luckily your working with wood. Filler, sandpaper, files and such can help you recover. I had to tear out about a third of my hull planking and redo it. Recoveries can be a pain, but also a learning process and very gratifying knowing you have the skill to fix mistakes. 

Tough to get it out of your blood, so to speak.  Welcome back!

Google Table Saw books for beginners. Lots to choose from. Many with good reviews.

Have you tried YouTube for instructional videos?

Sounds like you're going about it the right way: doing research, taking your time and thinking ahead about how current decisions will effect future steps. The stantions on this model can be tricky but looks like you've got a handle on it.

Keep up the fine work.

1 hour ago, bhermann said:

Looking good!  I see your assistant has been keeping a close eye on things

 

Bob

Last time I left my "assistant " in the shipyard unattended, I lost part of my transom to her sharp teeth