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Posts posted by CPDDET
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Planning on it if the creek don't rise and I'm still on the green side of the grass.
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There is a product made by Flitz out of Wisconsin. Supposedly spray on and rince, no scrubbing needed.
I have a very badly oxidized brass kick plate on our front door that hasn't been cleaned in 15 years. So I'm going to try this stuff. Brasso had little to no effect.
I'll keep you posted.
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That's quite a statement. You may want to sleep on it. Can the copper be cleaned? Would you consider applying Renaissance Wax and leaving it bright after cleaning? Or cleaning and then using a different method to "age" it? Just wondering what options you have available.
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Glad to hear all is well, except for a few minor flaws. I'm sure you're pleased to be up and running again.
Dave
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Welcome! This is a great resource and has helped me tremendously. I'm sure you will find all the help you need here.
Dave
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Nice work! At this scale things can be a real challenge.
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1 minute ago, Overworked724 said:
I don’t know, Dave…I think you need to go smaller. 🤣
Going blind already
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You have to remember that those who are on this site have a critical eye. The general public wouldn't look at this model the same way. Put it up on Ebay and see where things go.
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The next step was to make the vertical rod on which the gooseneck rides.
I began by taking a piece of 1/32 inch brass round stock and flattening one end with a pin driver and hammer. Then slid the gooseneck on the round end before flattening that end with the pin driver.
In order to drill the holes in the flat ends without the drill bit wandering, I glued (CA) a .05mm washer on each end to act as a guide for the drill bit. Then hand drilled the holes with a pin vice. After words I used acetone to remove the washers.
Now to build the bands that attaches the gooseneck assembly to the foremast.
- GrandpaPhil and bhermann
- 2
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Welcome! Contributing and rendering help is what this site is all about.
Dave
- Keith Black, JeffT and mtaylor
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Zinsser, Varathane and Minwax all make sanding sealers as well.
- Canute, Knocklouder, mtaylor and 1 other
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Good to hear things are moving along
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Welcome aboard!
- mtaylor and Keith Black
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Glad to have you join us!
- Ryland Craze, Keith Black and mtaylor
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Welcome! Be sure to keep us posted. Would love to see pics of your dads build and kit.
- Keith Black and mtaylor
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Looks great and good technique!
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Finally got around to making the other half of the gooseneck for the foremast. Its been a while coming, LOL
I began with a .125 square brass bar and milled it down to .085
Then used a #66 bit to drill a hole for the through bolt that would hold the two halves together
Then drilled another hole into the face of the bar and two more holes into the side of the bar
Then, using a file, joined the two holes to form a slot
Checked the fit of the two halves
Then drilled a hole straight down into the bar to accommodate a piece of brass rod that will be used to attach the gooseneck to the boom
I attached the two halves with a .8 mm bolt and nut and trimmed off the excess
Then used a jeweler’s saw to cut the gooseneck from the bar
Used CA to glue the brass rod into the back side of the gooseneck
This is a picture of the finished gooseneck mounted (simulated) on a brass rod with a piece of dowel for the boom. The boom can swivel port to starboard, slide up and down the brass rod and the gooseneck will allow the boom to lift after the downhaul is set
- berhard, GrandpaPhil, gmctaggart and 1 other
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During my days of learning to sail through classes with the ASA, we learned to use a reef knot to secure the 2 ends of the reef lines. This is a common knot also known as a square knot. Easy to tie: right hand over left and then left hand over right.
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new to ship building..
in New member Introductions
Posted
If I were just starting I would do the 3 kits, in order, offered by model shipways. I would also do the half hull planking kit offered by the Nautical Research Guild.