CPDDET

That's quite a statement. You may want to sleep on it. Can the copper be cleaned? Would you consider applying Renaissance Wax and leaving it bright after cleaning? Or cleaning and then using a different method to "age" it? Just wondering what options you have available. 

Glad to hear all is well, except for a few minor flaws. I'm sure you're pleased to be up and running again. 

Dave

Welcome! This is a great resource and has helped me tremendously. I'm sure you will find all the help you need here.

Dave

Nice work! At this scale things can be a real challenge. 

8 hours ago, wefalck said:

Carpenters make parts to fit in situ, using the part against which the second part fits as template. From an engineer's point of view this looks pretty 'artisanal', but it really works ...

Only way I know of getting it right without too much waste.

1 minute ago, Overworked724 said:

I don’t know, Dave…I think you need to go smaller. 🤣

Going blind already 

You have to remember that those who are on this site have a critical eye. The general public wouldn't look at this model the same way. Put it up on Ebay and see where things go.

The next step was to make the vertical rod on which the gooseneck rides.

I began by taking a piece of 1/32 inch brass round stock and flattening one end with a pin driver and hammer. Then slid the gooseneck on the round end before flattening that end with the pin driver.

In order to drill the holes in the flat ends without the drill bit wandering, I glued (CA) a .05mm washer on each end to act as a guide for the drill bit. Then hand drilled the holes with a pin vice. After words I used acetone to remove the washers.

Now to build the bands that attaches the gooseneck assembly to the foremast.

Welcome! Contributing and rendering help is what this site is all about. 

Dave

I use a clear spray acrylic matte finish over my painted parts. Adds some UV protection and makes the model easier to dust off.

Zinsser, Varathane and Minwax all make sanding sealers as well.

I have been using Delta Ceramcoat on basswood and found it to work quite well.

Good to hear things are moving along

Welcome aboard!

Glad to have you join us!

Beautiful!

Welcome! Be sure to keep us posted.  Would love to see pics of your dads build and kit.

Looks great and good technique!

Finally got around to making the other half of the gooseneck for the foremast. Its been a while coming, LOL

I began with a .125 square brass bar and milled it down to .085

Then used a #66 bit to drill a hole for the through bolt that would hold the two halves together

Then drilled another hole into the face of the bar and two more holes into the side of the bar

Then, using a file, joined the two holes to form a slot

Checked the fit of the two halves

Then drilled a hole straight down into the bar to accommodate a piece of brass rod that will be used to attach the gooseneck to the boom

I attached the two halves with a .8 mm bolt and nut and trimmed off the excess

Then used a jeweler’s saw to cut the gooseneck from the bar

Used CA to glue the brass rod into the back side of the gooseneck

This is a picture of the finished gooseneck mounted (simulated) on a brass rod with a piece of dowel for the boom. The boom can swivel port to starboard, slide up and down the brass rod and the gooseneck will allow the boom to lift after the downhaul is set

During my days of learning to sail through classes with the ASA, we learned to use a reef knot to secure the 2 ends of the reef lines. This is a common knot also known as a square knot. Easy to tie: right hand over left and then left hand over right.

Nice thinking outside the box!

Dave

Welcome! Lots of great modelers here.

Looking forward to seeing your builds

Dave

Looks excellent!

Always nice to get ideas/ advice from a master like yourself.  Thanks!

Welcome! While you will find a treasure trove of information here, we all will benefit from your experience as well.

Dave