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This isn't a top of the line scroll saw but I find that for the price it is very good.  Well built and not much vibration when running.  Used with out bolting it down on my workbench and had no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4N9L93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This isn't a top of the line scroll saw but I find that for the price it is very good.  Well built and not much vibration when running.  Used with out bolting it down on my workbench and had no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4N9L93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Video Library – Foredom Electric Company also is an excellent resource that is on thier website

Try contacting the Foredom company online or calling them.  They are an excellent company that will assist you with any questions. Contact information: 
Email customerservice@blackstoneind.com Phone
800-272-2885 or 203-792-8622
Monday through Friday
8:00 am –  5:00 pm (ET) I have contacted them several times when ordering replacement parts. Very helpful staff and efficient company.  There website is excellent and contain a huge amount of information.  Try using the serial number off the label on your machine in the search box or use it as a reference when calling them. There tools last for decades but you want to make sure you order the proper insert for the flex line.  I wish you luck, I love my Foredom tool and look forward to using it when I  can.  I even purchased the Vanda-lays Acra mill plus to use with the tool to give it better options for control. Expensive but it allows the full use of the tool and they sell a clamp set yp that works with the Foredome # H.30 and H.44 handpieces.  

Hi Everyone, this build of a 44’ North Carolina Oyster Sharpie will be my first scratch build. The plans were bought from US Vintage Model Yacht Group. ( USVMYG ) They are drawn by Thomas A Pratt, taken from the lines of Howard Chapelle. They are a digital download with the plans and directions for a 50” model on one pdf and photos and directions of a 50” model being assembled on a second pdf. Acrobat Pro was used to scale the drawings to 1/24 ( 22”) using the tile function to print them out. All of the measurements are taken directly from the printed drawings. Detailed instructions are given on how to make the build board but I’m using the adjustable board that I already have. The inner stem is made first.
 



 

 

 

 
 
The inner stem is made from 1/4 x 1/4” basswood strip with one side planed at an angle so that the adjacent side is 1/8” wide. When all four pieces are glued together the forward side will be 1/4” wide to accept the 1/4 “ stem. Notches are cut at this time to accept the shear logs and the chine logs.It is mounted to the build board and all measurements are taken from this point.. The hull lines are all straight so I took the measurements from the drawing and started making frames from 1/16” strips of basswood.


 

 

 
The frames are attached to the build board using 4-40 hardware to eliminate any cutting later on. Notches are cut for the keelson which consists of three 1/8” strips of wood. The king plank sits on top of the frame and will eventually be adjusted for the curvature of the deck. Three 1/8” strips were used in case the center piece needs to be removed for the center board. ( But that probably won’t happen)
 

 

 

 

 
Once the center strips of the keelson and king plank were attached, vertical supports were added for the masts and bulkheads for the trunk, cockpit and hatches. Then the outer strips were added and more vertical supports were added so that the whole structure is 3/8” thick.



 

 

 

 
The two areas where the masts will be stepped are built out so that they are 1/4” square and then boxed.
 

 

 
 
The plan is to box in the entire bulkhead former and then add lateral supports for the frames before attaching the chine logs. Hope to see you soon.
 
 

The boat I was inspired by is a 7.5m " Mamma rosa "

I  think you are looking for the manufacturer called: Master-Korabel.
below the link:
 
http://master-korabel.ru/index.php?act=subsec&id=64

Mark is giving good advice Pete. I scratch built a crabbing skiff and used water/white glue mix. it worked well. to also stop the fraying you can use two way tape along the perimeter which works well. heres a picture of my KRUSTY CRABB

Pete,
Try a mix of water and white glue at 50-50.  Test it.  You might have to go down on the glue.  If use this, form the sail and then let the cloth dry.  It can add a nice billow.
 
I've also seen hairspray, starch, and matte finish (diluted) polyeurtothane varnish used.
 
Oh... and did I mention test... test.. test before putting anything on the sail?

This wonderful model of RMS Servia was started in the 1960s or 70s and was never completed. About 90% of the parts to finish the model are available. I was hoping to get this model finished for my own interest, but time passes, space is limited, and interests change. 
 
She was started by Wolfgang Buce, of Maine, and is available for pick up for $1000 USD. 
 
She should be in a Cunard office somewhere, which was the original intent for the model but, again, time and interests change. 
 
Shipping this across the US or Canada is possible but crating and shipping charges will run easily over $2000 USD. 
 
 

Many new builders here have started with the three-model Model Shipways series. There are many build logs for these models as well on this site. 
 
Each model is also available for sale separately, as are the paints, etc.

It appears to be a main staysail. This sail is a fore-and-aft rigged sail attached to the main-mast. It's the same as a mizzen staysail, but on the mainmast.
 
 

Needs a new flex shaft.  On\off, no speed co control bug I plan to add a foot control.  Mounted on  cast iron blocks but can be removed and hung up.  Runs good and I got it cheap enough that I don't mind putting some more money into it. 
 
 

Now the budget fun begins:
How much wear has the flex shaft had?  Is adding lube enough or is a new one needed?
Speed control -  table or foot pedal - on/off  or rheostat  - 
Hand pieces - chuck and/or collet?    
Accessories -  right angle (bulky) - drill press - router - router table - vise held block (anchor) for a hand piece mount - even a hammer chisel hand piece and a belt sander

I do not think that I would care to control the speed by foot pressure on a floor switch.  I have a one dial bench switch.  The speed dial is also the On/Off.  If I find a power level that I like, I have to keep finding it.  That is easier than a continuously random foot pressure control and enduring fatigue or a cramp if it is a long job.   Foredom sells a bench control with two switches.  On/Off plus a speed dial in series, so that a favored speed can be retained.   It is no problem to add a foot controlled On/Off in line.   I use a momentary foot switch with my drill press - because I want the bit in place in the starter divit before it starts cutting. 
 
The bale will run you about $6.   I advise making up a big - all at once - order from Foredom.  Whoever they are using for shipping right now seems to have the goal of getting as rich as possible as quickly as possible.  If their level of shipping costs is the future, local brick and mortar businesses will have the possibility of a major comeback.

Excellent! Stories like yours serve to encourage others to keep an eye out for bargains on the used tool market. It's often quite amazing what can be found. 
 

Needs a new flex shaft.  On\off, no speed co control bug I plan to add a foot control.  Mounted on  cast iron blocks but can be removed and hung up.  Runs good and I got it cheap enough that I don't mind putting some more money into it. 
 
 

Needs a new flex shaft.  On\off, no speed co control bug I plan to add a foot control.  Mounted on  cast iron blocks but can be removed and hung up.  Runs good and I got it cheap enough that I don't mind putting some more money into it. 
 
 

Hey guys,  the question was:
 
" ....which have the most detailed build instruction?  
 
Can we try to answer that question, instead of launching off into our thoughts on the other pitfalls that a beginner might encounter?
 
 
 

Foredom models have changed over the years. They once had a model 320, I believe, but their current model line uses another system of identifying models. The operation and maintenance of the motors and handpieces haven't changed much at all though. Their present owner's manual should be helpful to you. If you haven't got it already, it's available online at TX_Manual.pdf (foredom.net)
 
 

Great topic.  A cheap airbrush can be a good intro to airbrushing and it makes sense to get a cheap one to learn on because if you end up breaking it you arn't out a lot.  Even a cheap airbrush can be improved with a few simple mods.  Polishing the needle makes a big difference.  Can't find it now but there was a website with lots of info on airbrushing, reviews of different models including some cheap ones and tips on using and improving performance.  Best bet is to read up on how things work before taking the plunge. 

Hi all shipmates.
 
Short story about laziness.
 
It took a very long time before I finally decided to start a new model.
I really enjoyed the time I spent on the previous build - HMS Triton cross section.
 
After that tried to start something new for a while but unfortunately I failed because of my laziness
 
Folowing the MSW site for many years,
I had seen Armed Longboat -1834 by Ancre  monograph  model that I really liked.
There are several really nice boat model builds on the site, that for me personally gave inspiration./tkay11 build is my favourite/
 
I bought a monograph from Acre store, but the book remained untouched on the shelf for some time afterwards. Again my laziness.
 
Don't really know how, but I got rid of my sluggishness and decided to finally proceed to the start of the build. And I not even  imagined that I could be so happy to return to drawings and saw dust.
 
In first place as I like to make everything over complicated  I decided go to different way how to create the mould.
Not don’t know how i get that idea and definitely not sure is it will works.
However, in the end, I have decided to take a risk and hope that everything will works.
 
I have already moved a little forwards, but I had not took any pictures of process.
Therefore my topic start with tiny delay.  End of the, hopefully everything will work out and laziness will not return🙂
 
Few pictures for the start.
 






 
 
That's all for a moment,
to be continued.
 
 
 
 
 

Very few photographs of these ships have survived to this day.
But instead of them, all the drawings necessary for the construction of the model were preserved in the Archives of St. Petersburg.
 
Based on them, I draw my assembly drawing.

The 'Chicago ' variable speed flex-shaft drill (sold at Harbor Freight) I've enjoyed BOTH power and lower speeds (modulated by a foot control - like my 'old school' sewing machine).  I do have to use an Enco mini pin chuck (has three small collet sizes) to use 'wire drills' for the best results.  Yeah, there is that flex shaft attached to the motor that hangs from a provided wall hook.  'Same would be true for a old-style dental drill ... my brother got that from my dad's estate 'cause he was there first. 

Along with what Bob is saying, I don't see that being much more useful than a pin vise.  It is going to stall very easily and the tool selection is very limited compared to devices with a 1/8 collet sharing the Dremel type tools.
 
While not cordless, I have found this to be very useful for light work.  It weighs in at 6.8 oz, so is very easy to use.
 
Dremel 2050-15 Stylo
 

 
It also takes the Dremel keyless chuck eliminating the need to change collets for the smallest drill bits on up to 1/8  for all Dremel type accessories.