grsjax

The kit consists of 5 sheets of laser cut wood, 2 of mahogany veneer, 2 of 1.5mm plywood and 1 of 3mm basswood (I think it is basswood).  There is a 19 page booklet of instructions with numerous photographs.  This is one area where I think there could be an improvement by adding some detail drawings.  Not a big problem but it would make a few things a bit clearer.  There is also a display stand of laser cut 3mm ply and a small bag of additional small parts and decals.

The seaflea is a 10 foot class A hydroplane.  Osborn Models, mostly known for model trains, used to produce a line of static and RC model boat kitss of which this is one.  I also have their 1:24 scale Miss Canada III and Mirror Dingy models which I hope to do build logs on in the future.  Derek at Osborn Models has been a real help and tells me they have a few of their kits still in stock so if you are interested contact him at dosborn1210@rogers.com.  I think he should start up production again but that is just my selfish desire to build more of these interesting boats.
 
The kit is overall is excellent.  There are few things that could be improved but in general I think this is one the best small kits I have seen.  The laser cutting is very good and the innovative use of laser cut parts including some profile carving using a laser cutter to produce the outboard motor is excellent.

The young sea officers sheet anchor is absolutely a great book to have at hand when contemplating rigging a model ship.

Badger Airbrush Co. is making a special offer for a limited time.  This offer will be repeated again - watch their Facebook posts - in case I don't get them posted.
 
Read the info in the box below - note the dates and the requirement that orders from outside the US will need to respond to the email that will be sent upon receipt of the order - limited time to respond.
 
Badger is making this offer because they have not and will not be attending any shows during 2021.  The prices shown are what the products would sell for at the shown - prices include shipping & taxes (except foreign supplemental mailing charge). 
 
Note the compressor prices - many here have been shopping for a compressor.  I have the TC910 unit and it is quiet and will handle any airbrush.  Also have the TC908 and it's pretty darn quiet too.
 
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/Special_Offers.asp

http://www.badgerairbrush.com/images/NonCon20202021header.jpg

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/divers-find-second-century-military-ship-sunken-egyptian-city-180978244/?utm_source=smithsoniandaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20210721-daily-responsive&spMailingID=45337671&spUserID=OTY4MjUzNzkyMTQ3S0&spJobID=2045187682&spReportId=MjA0NTE4NzY4MgS2

Well it's time I wrap this one up. I have added a Burgee and a club pendent which I made from paper, printed both sides than glued together and mounted on staffs. The boat has been renamed It is now called Miss Mabel. The reason for that is that this little burg I live in is called Lebam. The first postmaster wanted to name this whistle stop after his daughter (Mabel) to which she did not want. So he reversed the spelling and the town of Lebam it became. I thought it only fitting that I rename by boat by reversing Lebam and calling it Miss Mabel. The club pendent letters L.Y.C. stand for Lebam Yacht Club not that there ever was one.

Here is a copy of the original article published in Motorboating Ideal Series Volume 8, 1938 
Zipper Plans.pdf

I want to reproduce the "Assunta" launch of the Adriatic Sea in 1: 24 scale, this is the original boat, launched in 1925.

Do not overlook full sized old tools.  IMHO they are preferable to new ones for several reasons:
First, sturdy construction.  They have more machined cast iron and little or no plastic.
Belt driven.  Motors are easily replaced or switched to high HP if you decide to do so.
Fewer propriety parts.  Replacements like threaded fasteners can be found at the local Hardware store.
Availability of a wide variety of locally sourced blades.  A 14in bandsaw uses a standard 93-3/4in blade.
 
My 14in bandsaw is 45 years old and still going strong.  I have added a more powerful motor (belt driven) and have replaced the tires, tension spring and guide blocks, all with generic aftermarket parts.  I also replaced all adjustment thumb screws with socket head cap screws.  I doubt if any of the new small 9in saws will still be providing like new performance after 45 years of use.
 
Roger

By this post I declare the model of the reconstruction Helga Holm of the ship 5 in the archeological excavations at the Helgeands islet finished.
 
It has been a very enjoyable, albeit at time tedious, journey. And I'm quite happy with the result.
 





Thank you everyone who has followed, commented and supported with advice and encouragement. You have been a great help.

This is called a slip roller or rolling mill.  The MicroMark item looks pretty cheaply made from aluminum.  For a few dollars more you can buy one on amazon that will be much stronger and produce better results.  Some of them have rollers that can be changed for use with different size tubes.  One thing to think about is that the rollers will flatten wood strips to some extent.
 
one example https://www.amazon.com/Rolling-Machine-Combination-Jewelry-Tabletting/dp/B07G7ZCCSZ/ref=pd_di_sccai_6/143-4564824-7564258?pd_rd_w=ORekI&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=DVFFA5K61C6HG1PNPCA5&pd_rd_r=1679c72e-430e-4e18-8f4c-0b448bac5f51&pd_rd_wg=t3d30&pd_rd_i=B07G7ZCCSZ&psc=1

Not quite -- as Chuck pointed out, you can buy that kit direct from the manufacturer.
 
Also, seasoned modelers know never to pay MSRP for anything from Model Expo. Get on their mailing list and wait for sales, of which they have many, often featuring deep discounts.
 
Also also, keep an eye on FleaBay. Based on their Buy It Now prices and minimum bid settings, most sellers on eBay these days seem to think that their wares are made of solid gold, but bargains do occasionally turn up.
 
Another option: try card models! They're dirt cheap compared to wooden or plastic kits and oodles of fun, too. Once you try card, you'll never go back to wood! Well, I still do, but maybe you won't! 😄 P.S. I will be reviewing some more card models in the near future -- watch for them in the Kit Reviews section.

They sell pre cut small square sheets of copper like gold leaf.  Its thicker than gold leaf and is quite durable.  It sticks on any surface just like goldleaf would with the same techniques.  Easy to cut and perfect scale.  You take several sheets at a time and cut them to plate size with a scissors.   Then apply.  Its easier to cut when you hold several sheets together.   Its super cheap and you get a million sheets in a package.  This is the stuff the apply to picture frames and architectural items.   so its sturdier and thicker.
 
https://www.google.com/search?q=copper+foil+sheets&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwjGtM31iO_wAhUMeDABHcLpC20Q2-cCegQIABAA&oq=copper++Foil&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQARgFMgQIIxAnMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAOgYIABAHEB46CAgAEAgQBxAeUJSSGVjKpBlg8boZaAFwAHgAgAGjAYgB9wSSAQM3LjGYAQCgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZ8ABAQ&sclient=img&ei=YUuyYIaACozwwbkPwtOv6AY&bih=594&biw=1293&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS907US907#imgrc=r9I6_xHdNEextM
 

 

 
 

If you have a lathe you can use it to mill parts.  A milling attachment for a lathe is a lot cheaper than a mill and can do most of the milling necessary on a model.  Here is a link to one for a Taig lathe sold by Little Machine Shop https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1956  There are milling attachments for most lathes on the market so you shouldn't have a problem finding one to fit yours.
 

Machine tools are expensive and IMHO trying to justify a purchase by determining what ship model parts you can use them for misses a good bit of the point.  The question not being asked is “What jigs, fixtures, and tools can I make with machine tools that will improve the quality of my models?”
 
With my lathe and milling column I have made: a propeller soldering fixture, a fixture for holding small blades in my sharpening jig, a jig for soldering ladders, a height gage, a fixture for aligning a drill for hawse pipe holes, and just recently a beam compass (photo below.).  My lathe headstock and tail stock are also my go to tools for accurately starting taps and dies.  
 
Whenever I run into a ship modeling problem that requires a tricky setup I consider if I can build a jig or fixture to solve it.
 
Roger
 

If you have a lathe you can use it to mill parts.  A milling attachment for a lathe is a lot cheaper than a mill and can do most of the milling necessary on a model.  Here is a link to one for a Taig lathe sold by Little Machine Shop https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1956  There are milling attachments for most lathes on the market so you shouldn't have a problem finding one to fit yours.
 

If you have a lathe you can use it to mill parts.  A milling attachment for a lathe is a lot cheaper than a mill and can do most of the milling necessary on a model.  Here is a link to one for a Taig lathe sold by Little Machine Shop https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1956  There are milling attachments for most lathes on the market so you shouldn't have a problem finding one to fit yours.
 

Good advice is dependent on your goals: budget, workshop space and even your age (are you just getting started outfitting a workshop that you will use for many years?)
 
First, IMHO upgrading a hand held rotary tool is throwing good money after bad.  I have a 45 year old Sears “Little Crafty” rotary tool.  Like most older tools made before well known brand names were slapped on outsourced products it is well made.  I seldom use it, and when I do it’s for metal working.  Like Bob says, it’s great equipped with an abrasive cutting disc.  For serious model work it’s way too aggressive.  
 
If I were moving from “kitchen table” model building to equipping a workshop, the first major power tool that I would buy would be a drill press.  Bench top drill presses are not expensive, take up little space, and compared with other power tools produce relatively little dust.  They work equally well drilling wood, metals, and plastic.  I use mine almost every time that I work in my shop.  For drilling, with their lever operated quill they are easier to use than a mill, where the drilling column must be advanced with a handwheel
 
If you decide to buy a drill press, make sure that it is equipped with ball or roller bearings.  I prefer belt driven tools to those with electronic speed controls; better long term reliability.  The Jacobs chuck on my drill press will not close on drill bits smaller than 3/32in diameter (about 2mm).  I therefore, have a set of pin vices that accept smaller drill bits and can be mounted in the chuck.  I believe that there is an old adage that says to buy machine tools by the pound; the heavier the better.  A good drill press gets its precision by rigidity.  Rigidity requires mass.  My drill press is also 45 years old and works as well as it did when brand new.
 
Roger
 

Tony; I can’t comment on the mill but I might consider a drill press before purchasing a mill. (I’m not saying I’d use a drill press as a mill.) I’m not sure how others feel about this...Moab

After generating the hull lines, I go to 3D mode, draw out the base line, waterline, whatever you are using to determine the fore aft positions of the hull lines in the X direction. Then I rotated the hull lines 90 deg. so they run in the XZ rather than XY direction. Each "frame' is then positioned at its repective place on the reference line. you now have the 3D model of your hull.
The following pictures are screen captures of "The Maryland Terrapin Smack 1886" that I drew:
 

 
This is the station lines, keel, and deck center line laid out in the X axis.
 

 
In this I've loaded in the frames, rotated them into the XZ plane, and have move some of them onto their locations. Note that this boat has a flat bottom and slab sides, but a regular curved hull is done the same way.
 

 
Here the frames and transom are all in place, and I have used a curve line with defining points set at each frame to define the Chine and Shear.
 

 
Much further down the line, I have added surfaces, deck furniture, etc.  These are all half hulls, but all it takes then is to duplicate and mirror the finished side, then stick them together.
 
These drawings were made from a scanned page in a book. I've since purchased the full sized plans, and started over to make a more accurately scaled drawing. I'm just starting the 3D drawings for this. There are many other layers of details that are not shown.
 

 
At this time I am concentrating on Chesapeake Bay boats, for scratch building future models. In the pasted I've CADed 2D drawings of WWII era ships, for semi-scale 144th scale models (to scale, but lacking fine detailing).

For anyone interested in the indigenous boats of the world this is a great blog.
 
http://indigenousboats.blogspot.com/

This is called a slip roller or rolling mill.  The MicroMark item looks pretty cheaply made from aluminum.  For a few dollars more you can buy one on amazon that will be much stronger and produce better results.  Some of them have rollers that can be changed for use with different size tubes.  One thing to think about is that the rollers will flatten wood strips to some extent.
 
one example https://www.amazon.com/Rolling-Machine-Combination-Jewelry-Tabletting/dp/B07G7ZCCSZ/ref=pd_di_sccai_6/143-4564824-7564258?pd_rd_w=ORekI&pf_rd_p=c9443270-b914-4430-a90b-72e3e7e784e0&pf_rd_r=DVFFA5K61C6HG1PNPCA5&pd_rd_r=1679c72e-430e-4e18-8f4c-0b448bac5f51&pd_rd_wg=t3d30&pd_rd_i=B07G7ZCCSZ&psc=1

For anyone interested in the indigenous boats of the world this is a great blog.
 
http://indigenousboats.blogspot.com/

For anyone interested in the indigenous boats of the world this is a great blog.
 
http://indigenousboats.blogspot.com/

For anyone interested in the indigenous boats of the world this is a great blog.
 
http://indigenousboats.blogspot.com/