John Gummersall

Began soaking the planks in the supplied jig...  I have to admit, that seems like a pretty neat idea since the hull is so symmetrical.   No spiling and shaping is necessary.   I am sure I will end up having some "adjustments" but with each plank being so similar the the location of each plank is marked on the bulkheads, this hopefully will be an easy and fun planking....   I know is the past, at my skill level anyway, the words "easy" and  "fun" were never seen in the same sentence with "planking".

While my planks were socking and drying in the jig I worked on a few other items..

For the cabin lid, it is the same drill as with the fore and aft frames to where you glue the two halves together.   Again they suggest using four wires to line up the holes.   I did that, but as I said above, it seems it would be much easier just to eyeball the four holes and then insure the inner lid was centered on the outer lid.

Here is where I got a little lost,,,,  On the outer lid, the handles will cover up the holes, but on the inner lid the holes remain.  I assume they would want you to fill the holes with filler.  Instead, I just took some old pins and stuck them in the holes.   Kind of look like bolts.   You decide what you want to do,,, wood fuller or bolts.

Pins inserted from the lower lid temporarily sticking out the top.

Looking at the lower lid after the pins have been trimmed.

Final view of outer lid

Started work on the paddles...  Using a file they trimmed up OK

The inner edges of each plank was beveled before soaking.

Instructions did not mention it, but with other ships I have built there is always caulking between the planks.   Caulk lines are not shown on the finished model, but what ship of this era did not have caulk lines?    Thus, right or wrong, I used the "side of the pencil" process to blacken the side of each plank.

First plank applied,,,  Hopefully will  be able to apply more than one plank a day, but I wanted to start out slow around the windows as I am not sure how precise the planks will be.   Ideally I would like to be able to have a little filler as possible,,, so minimum gaps if possible

Next come  mounting the stairs in the model.  Instructions say in bold print to not mount the stairway in the wrong direction.  It should be mounted toward the bow of the boat.   Problem is, at this stage it is not really apparent which direction is the bow or stern.   They supply the following photo.

No explanation, but there is a red circle on the top of the hatch support.   It points out on one side of the support there are little notches...  Looking at the way they have the ladder mounted, I can only assume the notched part of the hatch structure points to the bow

The aft fore frames are made up of two circular pieces.  In order to get the pieces glued in the correct position, they suggest using the supplied wire temporally through the holes to line up the pieces.   Turns out the holes are too small for the thinnest wire supplied in the kit.   Rather then expand the holes, I had some 22 gage wire so I used that instead.   I am not really sure the wire is necessary.   One could just by sight line up the holes.  Even using the wires, you still have to line of the outer (smaller) disk in the middle of the larger disk, so the wires are not a true indicator of correct position.    Below shows my use of the wires to line up the holes....  Again,, I think that was somewhat of a waste of time.    As I mentioned above, note the inner disk is larger than the outer disk.

The list line of this sections says "After the glue is dry, handle the edges of the frames in draft following the engraved lines".   Something was defiantly lost in the translation to English.   What that really means in bevel the large inner ring to better accept the planking that will eventually run the length of the hull.

After a few coats of rub-on poly we are ready to start the assembly,

I ran a file quickly over each opening in each frame,,,, just to make the fit a little easier.   Basically each frame went into place with only a little bit of "persuasion".   Once it place it was very solid.

Below is a picture showing the final assemble hull.    The red circles show the notches on the hatch structure the depict the bow section.   The circles in green show the inner disk that has been beveled.   It is no longer larger than the outer ring and the angle is similar to the angle of the frame going into the end pieces.

And a few more final shots of the progress

Yvesvidal,

I like the rope on the 3D print technology model.....   I may consider that, when I get to that point....  

The center part of the hull construction goes pretty straight forward.   Parts all fit together very well (surprisingly well).  Instructions call to bevel the upper and lower jambs and the cabin frame walls following the engraved lines on these parts.   It also cautions not to over bevel.  I assume this is done to provide a better gluing base for later planking or parts.   Problem is the bevel line is so small (about the thickness of a hair) that about all it would take is one swipe with a sanding stick.   To me not really work the effort of over beveling, so I skipped the beveling at this time.   I assume (hope) there will be time later in the build when the planks are installed to bevel if really needed.   At that time I would then know the exact amount of beveling to do.

Next it was on to the lower port and starboard windows sashes.   Here is where the parts get really small.   There are four very small  pieces that frame each window sash.   Two pairs for small tweezers are defiantly in play here.   Not sure how these were etched into the wood sheet without burning the part.   

Did I say before that these sash border parts are really small ?   🙂

After gluing the four small pieces around the border of each sash there will be some trimming of the acrylic that will be between the two sash pieces of each window.   When putting in the acrylic be sure you have clean hands.  Acrylic smudges easily.   With a little patience the window ended up OK,

In the category of "do as I say and not as I do"....  the windows are made of four very small borders (shown above) that hold in the acrylic sandwiched between the two sashes.   If you plan to stain or put poly on the model, apply it on before you assemble the sashes.  In my case I did not do that so I had to get a small paint brush and paint on the poly being careful not to get on the acrylic.   Would have been much easier had I applied the poly before I assembled the sashes.

Stairway is next,,,, again no big deal as the parts all fit great.    Be sure to practice how you are going to insert the rungs before you actually start gluing them in.   Main issue here is keeping previous rungs in the stairway as you add each new rung.  This take a little patience here too, but if you go slow all the rungs will go into place..

Next come the two seats into the center part of the hull.  Pieces just fall into place - no big deal

Just completed the Philadelphia Gun Boat.  Took me just about 1 year at the speed I build, so I wanted to take on a simpler build, or what I call a "quick win".   At least I hope it will be a "quick win".   Then again it all depends on what you call "quick".   This build will be one of those painfully slow logs.  I work on models in my spare time, so please bare with me as this will be a slow log.

I will start right out and say I am somewhat new to ship building and not an expert builder by any means.  Maybe average at best but I enjoy the builds and have fun along the way.    With that in mind I will start the process

I have always been interested the the Secret Vessel "Morel".  It seemed like such a quirky fun model - A wooden submarine  ?   I read a few other build logs and they builder seemed to have a lot of fun with the build so I thought I would give it a shot.

Starting with the box contents,,,,     

Korabel must have some very precise laser cutters as some of the are really small.   

Seems like pretty good picture diagrams of the build

In addition there is an 8 page pamphlet that contains instructions, part numbers, and depicts part locations on each wooden sheet.    Seems very clear.

Awning structure is complete.   As I mentioned previously,  what should have been an easy task is made difficult by the existing rigging.   More than once some choice words where spoken when I banged the rigging trying to get the awning battens positioned.

At this point here is where I am going to "call it"...  complete.  Attaching the sails would normally complete the build, but I am not sure add much to the model.   And beside, I like the bare wood look.  Adding cloth sails folded up under the oars, to me (with my skill anyway) would not be a good look.

Below are some final parting shots (pictures) ....  It has been a lot of fun,,,  especially for someone with a whole lot to learn about building model ships.

Decided to redo some of the rigging..  Just too many thick lines.  I removed some of the thicker lines to where now only the Lower Shrouds, lower forestay, and lower backstays are rigged with the thicker line.   All other higher rigging was replaced with the thin rigging line.    Both halyards remained the thicker line as I figured the thicker line would be easier on sailors hands raising/lowering the sails.

Starting working on the oar rack and oars.   Pretty straight forward,,, that is if you follow the directions... Directions call for the first 1/2 of the oar to be square and then rounded off going into the blade.   Foolish me, I just assumed I knew what an oar looked like - that being round all the way from the handle.   Did not notice the first part was supposed to be square until I had finished them...  But,, to me an oar should be round...  You decide how you like your oars.

And how they will eventually look on the boat

Started working on the storage rack...  Not much to it.   Model does not include anything to put into the storage rack.   Rather then just leave it empty hanging from the awning structure, I figured maybe put some simple poles...  Just to have something.   A more experienced modeler would probably build some kind of weapon to tool to go into the storage rack,,,  but our crew just put poles in the rack.

and how it will eventually look hanging from the awning structure.

Next was the awning beams and stanchions.   Instructions call to cut a notch in each beam and stanchion to better interlock them together.  On the actual boat that was done to insure a strong joint, but in my model world that just was not going to look right.   I practiced on some spare wood cutting notches and joining two perpendicular pieces of wood.   I just could not make it look good.   Main issue is trying to get the two notches to match up completely.   If it is not exact, it just did not look right.   Thus I took the easy way out and just glued the awning beams directly on top of each stanchion.   I suppose not realistic, but a whole lot easier and looks much better that if I had attempted to notch each  beam and stanchion.   The additional 1/8 inch height on the awning did not really matter anyway.

On to the battens...  Instruction say the battens are installed last as it would be very difficult to do the rigging with the battens in place.   That may be, but with the rigging in place, the battens are no easy task either.   Especially the two enter battens down the middle of the boat.   Since the oar rack (1/2" wide) is mounted on these two center battens, you have to get these battens exactly 1/2" apart.   The also have to run very straight from fore to aft or they will really look off when sighting down the boat.    This is not easy task with the rigging in place positioning them one at a time and gluing in place.

I found the easiest way to insure a perfect fit is to assemble the two battens along with the oar rack off the boat.   This will insure the oar rack will fit exactly between the two battens.  The oar rack will hold the two battens together.    That way, when the glue dries, just pick up the structure and glue it on the awning.   Below shows the process.    There are two temporary spacer pieces of wood at each end to insure the correct spacing

Remaining shots show close up of some of the rigging....  Not that I am any kind of an expert on rigging...  I HATE RIGGING.....just do not have the skill or patience for it.. and it shows in my build  🙂

a few more shots showing the deadeyes beginning rigging and hull .

Beginning the ladder rungs and belaying pins.   This is my first model with ladder rungs (or rat lines for that matter).   With my fat fingers and lack of skill, it was a trying task.   I ended up first gluing the ladder rungs to the shroud and then added the lashing lines.

Below is a look at the final ladder shroud.  One point to note is the ladder rungs start out like the pattern diagram cut-out, but as they goes up the mast the rungs gets more narrow than what is shown as a pattern on the cut-out.   If the shrouds hang straight from the Main Top no way can you avoid the ladder getting more narrow than the pattern on the cut-out.   One idea that I think I like is to cut the ladder rungs the exact size as on the pattern diagram cut-out.   Not only is that easier than trying to measure each rung, but this will insure the ladder rungs are the proper size.   If this is done, the shrouds will widen some up to  the futtock rung before they start getting wider as they go down toward the deck.    Next model I have that has wooden rungs on the shrouds,,,, I may give this a try and see how that looks...

Here is where the realists will roll their eyes...   You might note I put rigged the ladder rungs on the port shrouds.    The directions call to put them on the starboard shrouds.   I did not realize this until I has 5 or 6 runs strung.    Could not really see a reason to remove them as (other then not being true to the design) and rig them on the starboard shrouds.     In the school of "do as I say and not as I do".....   you probably should rig them on the starboard shrouds.   🙂

A few shots of the lower forestay spreader around the canon.

 A few shots of the spaghetti of lines at the mast top.    Not sure I agree with my decision, but for whatever reason I choose to use the white line for the 

main yard lift and top yard lift.   I chose the thicker tan lines for the shrouds and forestay,  and the thin tan line for the main and top braces.   As you can see at the mast top, it is getting a little crowded with lines...    Before you start your rigging, give some real thought as to what line is used where.

And a couple shots showing progress to date...     Note on the port side I only have two belaying pins...   Not sure what happened, but after painting them, as I was taking them off the board, one fell off the paint platform.    I even saw it hit me on the way to the floor....   But after that, it was not to be found...  It is not that small, but it just vanished,,,,

Anyway,,, I sent a note to Model Shipway telling of my fate, and they plan to send me one.    Their replacement policy really is nice.

I wanted to point out a little confusion (on my part anyway) as to where to tie down the main halyard downhaul.   The instructions say ,,,, "Attach the main yard halyard and the downhaul as shown".    What is shown (or kind of implied) is the main yard downhaul going to a cleat on the mast.

Problem is, the position of the four mast cleats.   The two foreword mast cleats will be used to cleat the main yard lifts.   One of the back mast cleat was used for the main halyard, leaving the last cleat on the back of the mast for supposedly the main halyard downhaul.    Problem is this is not in a very good spot for the main halyard downhaul.    Main halyard downhaul cleat really need to be on the front of the mast.    Since it seems extra cleats have been provided (or at this point I think there are extra cleats), I added a cleat for the main halyard downhaul on the front of the mast.   It shows in the picture below.    I may regret this decision later on, but for now it seem like the logical position for it.

Also rigging of the deadeyes have started,,,,  

A little more progress.... Canons have been mounted, mast mounted, main backstays have been attached,  and main spar has been pined to the main mast.

Cook stove has also been placed in the location specified in the plans...  Not really sure what Philadelphia ship designers had in mind when they located the cook stove.   I can just see the discussion now between them..      "I know we need a cook stove, but where should be locate it on the ship?      I know,,,, let put it directly under the wood structure that supports the mast"

I guess the thought was that the ship would be sunk at war before the cook stove burned through the mast support  🙂 

One note,,,, Instructions about this time in the build state talk about "make up and attach but do not glue the main yard brace pendants as shown in Detail 5-3.".    Main yard pendant is shown above with a black box.   Not really sure what ""make up and attach but do not glue" really ment.   I assumed that ment make up the main yard pendant (and glue it), but do not make up the lines.    I guess "do not glue" really means "do not glue" as problem I had later was slipping the backstay lines over the main yard pendant blocks.   Not a big deal as the blocks are very small, but the loops for the backstay (and shrouds later on) ended up being a little bigger than they needed to be so it would fit over the main yard pendant blocks.   

Going with the theory "do as I say and not as I do",  make up the main yard pendant lines and block, but hold off attaching them to the mast until after the backstays and shrouds have been attached.

Next step was to add the mast top, main halyard, and step the mast.   One thing I noticed on diagram sheet #5 was the description of the main yard halyard.

It shows it terminating into a 7mm double and 7mm single blocks.   Problem is the Philadelphia kit did not include an 7mm double blocks.

For those of you who purchased blocks from Syren or other sites this is not big deal.    But if you plan to use the blocks included with the kit, you will be missing a 7mm double block needed to complete the main yard halyard.

Once again Model Shipway to the rescue.   I sent them a note describing the issue and they gladly sent me a 7mm double block to resolve the issue.

Probably should have mentioned this before, but I just thought about it...   One set of items on the brass sheet are parts B4.   They are little washers  that are used  throughout the hull and the canons.   There are 20 of them supplied.   Depending on your point of view, 20 is not enough of them.    Even the instructions seem to indicate that fact.   Early in the build the instructions say..

     There are quite a few eyebolts for guns and rigging on the Philadelphia. These eyebolts were installed by

    drilling through the ceiling planking and the outer planking, inserting the eyebolt, and then applying a washer and peening over the end of the

    bolt to secure it. 

Later on in the build, after you have used the 20 washers, the instructions indicate to "simulate" them.

    To simulate the washers and peened ends on these bolts on the hull exterior, snip them off a bit proud of the hull and draw a circle around them with a

    fine point black Sharpie pen. Keep the pen in close contact with the bolt end.

ModelExpo to the rescue and their great policy of replacing any missing or broken part.   In my case, the part was not missing or broken.   I explained that since I started using the washers I really did not what to finish up "simulating" them with a Sharpie and asked if they could send me some more washers.    They very quickly agreed and promptly sent me another brash sheet.   A great company...   Below just shows that brass sheet and the spot where 20 washers were located.

Back to the build....

Instructions do not mention the cook stove, but several picture are show on the model sheets.   So pick an appropriate time to build it before the deck gets too cluttered and before you install knee K1.   Below is my attempt at the cook stove.    As others have done I used Sculpey Super for the bricks.  Used the  mold from the wood bricks on the laser cut sheets, cooked them in the stove, and painted them.    The bricks turned out great.    The quality of my cook stove really looked like some army guys (non-brick layers) built the stove.  🙂   

Staining of mast and top mast, knee (K1), catheads and mooring bits

Instructions indicate after the Mast (lower mast) is build it should be fitted to the hull with the mast partner.   It also talks about not gluing in the Mast to the hull in the event you need to repair the Mast in the future.   Good words, but the future is now.   Do not glue in the Mast, or even fit it to the Mast Partner at this time, as in the next step it talks about removing the installed Mast to add the Top Mast.    After the Top Mast is built "Main Top" is built.  At this time, be sure to dry fit the Mast, Top Mast, and Main Top, as not doubt some "adjustments" will be needed to get a good fit.

Below shows Mast, Top Mast, and Main Top dry fit after "adjustments"

Below are the cut and stained Thole Pins and Bitts from the dowel rods.   The are inserted through the Rail Caps at indicated locations.   I rounded off the top of them a little so they did not look completely like dowel rods sticking up out of the hull.   The are easily inserted into the Rail Caps and stick up about 1/4 inch.

Below is progress to date,,,

Below show the two 9lbs canons fully rigged minus the canons

Bow shot showing the 12lbs canon as a work in progress.    The black on the breeching rope is from the 12lbs canon.   Originally I attached the breeching line to the 12lbs canon with a little glue.    I then (actually read the instructions) realizef it was best to remove the canons until later in the build so as not to get in the way or get knocked around during the build.   When the breeching line is again attached to the canon, it will not be noticeable

I also found some small black marbles for the shot garlands

Rather the using the supplied brass rings for the hawse holes I decided to use 4mm grommets.   One on the inside and one on the outside.   To me they look a little better and must easier to install than the brass rings.    The rings are very small and trying to get the hawse hole just right for the rings to cover seems like a lot of effort for no gain.    Next two shots show the hawse holes from the outside and from the top before the rail caps installed.

Note in the picture above the two grommets.   While grommets are a good idea, there will be no way to string the anchor line from outside in once the rail caps are installed.   I did not realize this until I look them from this top view.   One solution is to string the anchor line now while you can still get to it from the top.    Not sure I wanted to do that and have the anchor line just sitting there until late in the build.   Instead I pulled the grommets out, filed them down and re-inserted them again.   Below shows a full grommet and a filed down one.    This way, once the rail caps are put on, it will be easier to string the anchor line between the offset grommets.

Not really sure this was easier than stringing the anchor line at this point, so decide for yourself what is best for you.

Instructions call to trim and install the mast partner way before building the mast.  Since the mast partner has to be trimmed to fit the hull and the mast, it seemed like a good idea to complete at least the bottom mast before installing the mast partner.    As every model is a little different, and do to my lack of skill, I really wanted the mast to help with the positioning of the mast partner.   Instructions calls for building a jig to help position the mast partner, but still, I wanted the actual mast to be part of the mast partner trimming.   Otherwise, if the mast partner is a little off, (do to lack of builder skill) when you go to fit the mast, the mast may not be straight.   By using the jig and actual mast, you have a good chance to getting the mast straight up and down.    Mast is not permanently attached at this time - just used to help position the mast partner.

Decision made.  According to the instructions one is supposed to run the deadeye lines through the hull and secure them outside the hull with a "stopper" knot.  Realizing it is next to impossible (for me anyway) to tie a knot and have the deadeyes still all line up, I decided to "simulate" the "stopper" knot.   After running the deadeye lines through the hull I took the next size smaller line and just tied an overhand knot around the line sticking through the hull,  then trimmed the lines to look like a knot.   They more or less look like a "stopper" knot.  To me they did not turn out too bad.... or the best I can do anyway.

At this point I decided to complete the rudder.  The challenge here is to solder the pin at the exact center of the gudgeon.   Get the solder a little left or right of center and the gudgeon will not fit centered in the rudder.  Holding the pin in the center of the gudgeon and then soldering it into place is a lot easier said than done.    Be careful as the brass gudgeon is very thin and can not take a lot of filing or re-bending if you did not get it right the first time.

Instructions talk about putting the horizontal battens only one side of the rudder.  Purest may disagree, but to me the rudder looks better with battens on both sides of the rudder... That is what I ended up doing. 

Started rigging the canons.   As for stropping the single and double blocks, since they are canons, I decided to strope them with wire.   Where the line attaches to the becket on the single block I did strope with small line.    Below is my attempt at the single and double blocks used to rig the 9lbs and 12lbs canons.   Single blocks are on top (with the becket) and double blocks are on the bottom.

From there is was pretty easy to string up the canon rigging.   I did this outside the hull, so only need to hook them and tighten up the lines to complete the install.

Joseph

There are about as many ways to blacken brass as there are model builders.   If you look on MSW logs, lots of folks have various ways to do it, with mixed results.  Some successful and some not so successful.  I have found (not that I am anywhere near an expert)  that Novacan works great for blackening etched brass.   See my post on my Philadelphia, it shows some results.   You can use it full strength to get a really rustic brown/black look or use it 1/2 strength to get a more even blackening.   

john

Been some progress to date...  It is summer and just too hard to be indoors building...

I ended up using Golden Oak for a stain on the hull and light sanding afterwards to "dull it up some".    Aft storage chests and knees have been installed too.  In addition all hull holes have been drilled and those that are to accept eyelets at this time have been installed.

I got a little anxious and moved on to the 9 lbs and 12 lbs guns.  A little our of order.  As usual, the guns needed a lot of sanding/filing to remove the rough edges.   For stock molded guns they did not turn out too bad.   Both the 9 lbs and 12 lbs gun axles are pretty straight forward to build.

For the 12 lbs gun track I did alter from the suggested plans.  There are two G6 parts (along with some stock wood) that make up the 12 lbs gun track.   Only one G6 is supposed to be glued in.   The other one (highlighted in red) is supposed to be used to temporarily hold the proper spacing as the glue dries.    For me I found it easier to trim the "temporary" G6 piece so it fits between the tracks and actually glue it to the tracks.   This way the entire track can be built/stained outside the boat and then fitted/trimmed and glued into the boat.   This now permanent G6 piece will be hidden by the 12 lbs canon.   For me I just found this easier.

Below shows the canon in what will be it's final spot hiding the glued G6 piece.   Track has yet to be stained below.

Moved on to the deadeyes..  One note.... the various string supplied with the boat is a shiny nylon that unravels just by looking at it.   Not good way to cut it with a knife or scissors without an unraveled mess on your hands.   

To me, the best way to cut this line is with a soldering iron.   With the  soldering iron hit, just touch it to the line and it will cut it like butter leaving both ends neatly melted with no unraveling.

Best way to strop the deadeyes (for me anyway) was to hang them from an alligator clip with a larger clip holding the line tight.   From there it is pretty easy to stop the deadeye

Here is the end result of the four deadeyes.   I am not the best deadeye stropper in the world, but they turned out OK

Here they are temporarily attached through the hull.  Instructions call to permanently glue them to the hull at this point.  I have to give that some thought....  Not sure I want to attach them at this time.   We'll see

Session 3 started today.... You can also access the sale via website (http://www.badgerairbrush.com/) and click on "Special Offers"

It has been awhile since I last posted up...  What can I say... it is summer and too many other distractions...  I have completed a few items.

Below is the completed bow and stern sheerstrake planks glued to the now trimmed inner bulkheads.

As the instructions indicate as the ceiling planks get to the floor bulkheads they need to be notched.   Measure carefully and make the notch (shown in red) as small as possible - Just large enough to cover the floor bulkheads.    The planking is 1/16".  If the notch it too big or too long it will show as the ceiling planks continue on to the floor planking.

In order to get a better gluing base for the ceiling planking below the floor planking note the rectangle piece of wood (shown in black) added to the inside of the outer planking.   Earlier pieces were added along side the bulkheads to provide a better gluing, but I felt a little more is needed.    The gap between the outer planking and the ceiling planking is very close to 5/32".    Just glue 3 - 3/16 pieces of wood together and with minor sanding you have a good base for the ceiling planking below the floor planking.

OK,,,,, now is the time where the purists are going to roll their eyes and totally tune me out....  Below shows the bailing well made earlier in the build.

It took me several attempts to make it look OK (maybe), but at my skill level, I just can not get it to turn out looking anything that resembles a bailing well.   Anyone looking at it will surely ask "what is with the hole in the flooring"?

Anyway,,,,, I discovered that this boat was originally built so tight that it just does not leak.   It never rains in the boat and waves just never splash over the side.    As such,,,, does not need a bailing well.   So I removed the bailing well...   I just could not get it to my liking,,    🙂

Outer and inner planking complete,,,,,

On to staining,,,,, not quite sure what stain I will use at this time.... I keep going back and forth....  Will post again when I have made a decision  🙂

Planking finally complete....  As I first mentioned, this will be a painfully slow log...  Especially now that summer is upon us....  Seems lots of outside stuff keep pulling me away from the build.

Below is a side shot of the completed outside planking.... Still needs some sanding, but all in all I am pleased..  Not sure why, but in some cases the pencil marks on the side of the planking did not come out even on all planks...  Seems a little blotchy,,, Hopefully sanding and stain will cover some of it up.

Below is a shot from the bow....   Seems the starboard garboard is a little thicker than the one on the port side.   My intention was to taper it as it goes into the bow...  Looks like I forgot to tape the starboard garboard.   Will get to that later.   

As you can see, I have moved the shipyard out to our porch.  Not as convenient as in the basement, but it is summer, so ship building has moved outside.

Now on to the inner planking (ceiling planks)...  As with the outer planking, now the inside of the first five bulkheads needs to be trimmed to better accept the ceiling planks.

Again,,,, I appreciate your comment, but back in post #14 I had two planks left to go.   I was really unclear on that point.    It was then that I noticed that when I got to the final plank the bottom of the hull would need to be trimmed.    Anyway, I am not on the final plank and how to complete the planking soon.

john

Chuck,

I appreciate your comments, I was not really very clear as to my issue.     My problem (before the patch) was not so much a shortage of wood.   But that would have resulted in a gap under the stem/stern posts (see below) as the planking stops at the stem/stern posts.  I really did not want to see that gap...   

Below  is the completed stem post with the 1/32" patch at the bottom.   Now both the stem and stern posts (patched stern post listed above) will be able to accept the bottom planking with no gap between where the planking ends and the stem/stern posts.

Rodger,   Thanks for your comment,,,,  I appreciate it

Below shows the completed Stern post after sanding...  Now the bottom plank should fit pretty good into the stern post.

As for the stem (bow) post, looks like it only needs the additional 1/32" to be added.   Below are a couple pictures of the added patch to the stem post.   It too will be sanded later to confirm to the stem post.

Not sure why I did not notice this before, but now that I am at the last plank, I noticed that when the bottom of the hull was planked with 1/32" planking, the bottom now extends beyond the stem and stern posts... ugh,,,

If I had noticed this at the time, I could have adjusted for the 1/32" when attaching the stem/stern posts to the hull bottom.    This now needs to be fixed as the bottom plank will not sit properly with the stem/stern posts.    At this point about all I can think of is to extend the stem/stern posts.   Actually it looks like I need to add about 1/16" to the stem/stern posts as a patch.    Below shows the stern post patch after the initial gluing....  Tomorrow (when the glue is dry) I will trim it to match the stern post.   In the end will be hardly noticeable, but if not fixed, the transition of the plank to the stem/stern posts would be very noticeable.

As the saying goes....   "you can never have enough clamps"....  Even with my attempt at bending the planking,  a little brute force (as in clamps) is always helpful.    I find these from Micro Mark really helpful and form a really tight bond to the bulkhead.

Planking going along pretty good.   As Chuck and I have mentioned above, the planking is somewhat easy on the Philadelphia.   Most of the planks only require a little shaping and bending.    I really have liked using Chuck Passaro's planking method.   Even with a little bending his method really makes planking easier..... especially for someone like me that has no idea how to do a good job with spiling.    Below are a few shots showing planking almost complete.   Then on to the sanding to clean up some glue spots and general smoothing out.

Noticed a little space in the top sheerstrake ,,,,,   Will need to fill that from the inside later on..

While waiting for some of the planks to dry I noticed it will not be a smooth transition from the bottom plank (W+4 strake) to the bottom of the boat. 

Note when the bottom plank will eventually be applied there is not much edge to glue to

Just as you need to trim the foreword/aft bulkhead to accept the strake planks looks like you will also need to trim the hull bottom to provide a better  base to glue the bottom strake plank.

A few minutes with the Dremel easily takes care of that and will provide a much larger area to glue the bottom strake plank.   Does not really need to be perfect, just provide something to glue to.