src
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Everything posted by src
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I wondered if it was the Stern Post Mark. I see you cut the section for the pintles/gudgeons as a separate part and I assume that is how the French did it. Any idea why? It appears weaker than cutting from a single plank? I highlighted the two parts I am referring to below: Sam
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Sorry Jo, square DRIVE screws.
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That looks like fun Mark. I see what appears to be a stem piece, a rudder assembly and something else. What is the "something else" part? Sam
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Yea, square head screws are much better if you can find them. Sam
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Jo, this chart will help you determine the correct pilot drill for the screw you are using. I am assuming you are using “jobber” type bits; regular every day drill bits from the hardware store not special tapered bits. Use the column that says straight bit. You can buy tapered bits later. https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/wood-screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx another way to choose a bit and I what I have done in the field is to eyeball the drill bit to the minor dimension of the screw threads. I am st work right now (shhhh don’t tell anybody) I’ll try to post you a picture of what I mean when I get home. And what the others said about soap/candle wax to lubricate you threads. Sam
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Vossie, those look great to my eye! Kudos to you for wanting to do things "right." Something I have been trying to tell myself as I learn this hobby is to think of how far away scale-wise we are working on is. From 64 feet away I think those are quite convincing Under the circumstances you've done quite well and persevered, next build will be even better. Just my two cents for whatever that's worth. Sam
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Looking good Jo. you want to make sure your keel is nice and straight. sight down it lengthwise and make sure ther isnt a bend in the two ends you just glued on. If they are not nice and flat you will find the planking process to be "interesting" Sam
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Nice start Jo! It doesn’t look like you have screwed the brackets to you keel, raising it up a bit shouldn’t be a problem. If you do screw your keel to the brackets make sure you have a plan to remove it before you finish planking. Sam
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I have been following this discussion with interest, silently, since I have nothing to add. I am always pleasantly surprised when a simple question turns into a completely different discussion, I never fail to learn something from all of you. Since the sails, or non-sails, has garnered so much discussion here is a link to where I found the image above, there is a hi-res version available for download if that helps. https://www.history.navy.mil/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/nh-series/NH-54000/NH-54387.html Thanks Sam
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Wefalck, Thanks for the input. The book was only $15 US and with my level of knowledge (read nonexistent) I am sure I will get something out of it. Sam
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Russ, GRSJAX, thank you. Bridlecombe ordered. it will be in on Wednesday. Sam
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Thanks Russ. Lees doesnt mention anything about a Fore Gaff that I have found yet. Would it be safe to follow the same proportions as for the Driver Boom/Gaff? The drive Gaff is 5/8 of the driver boom which is the same length as the Fore Top Yard. So following that I would make the Foresail Gaff 5/8 of the Fore Top Yard? Sam
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So Jo, you have had a couple of hours now to do some work, do you have pictures of a completed boat yet? Sam
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'Morning, What are the names of the gaffs circled in red below, are they Trisail gaffs? I have another drawing of the Enterprise around the same period that shows none of these, how often would they be employed? I understand the gaff NOT circled is the Spanker or Driver Gaff. I am searching through Lees to work out my lengths and taper, so far I havent found any mention other than the Spanker, Driver and Trisail Gaffs. I am kind of assuming I would use the same length and taper ratio as the Driver Gaff. Thanks in advance. Sam
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Rich, His parts really are top notch in my opinion. Take a look at the picture below. The block and dead-eye on top are Constructos offerings, the parts below are Chucks. The dead-eyes can be a bit fiddly to assemble but he has planed it out well, if you follow his instructions you shouldnt have any problems. I did have to open the holes up after I glued them up and tumbled them but otherwise no major issues. Now Chuck, if your listening, how about some belay pins??? 😉 Back to you Rich. Sam
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You wont be disappointed Rich, other than all the hard earned cash you will start sending him once you discover all the goodies he offers.😀 Sam
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Jo, Vossie got to the meat of if. Just take one step at a time, ask lots of questions and post pictures of what you are talking about. Someone will jump in with answers. Dont forget there are also the Shop Notes forums here. Building and Planking area will be your best friend. AS far as terminology goes, dont worry too much about it, it will come to you, I am still making Widgets That Look More Different Than the Last Widget!! Just try to make the parts look like the pictures. Again dont be afraid to ask questions. Sam
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Jo, Plans are for studying not talking about..... Actually if you have a place to put them up on the wall that is really helpful I have found. Thats it Carl, tell her to screw the braces to the table top. What will her Better Half have to say about that?? If your other half takes issue with holes in the dining room table Jo, just tell 'em to talk to Carl, its his fault. 😀 Sam
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That's half the fun;venturing off into the unknown! I feel you though, I struggle with the same thing on my build. Hang in there you will figure out something that works for you. Sam
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YES, keep it simple for now. There is plenty of time to go broke buying Shiny Kit. Sam
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Thanks Russ and all who hit the like button. Yea I will be adding the two cleats at the end as well as a couple of eye bolts, one at the end and two on the jaws. I think there are also 6-7 blocks to be tied on before I mount it. Didnt get much done last night. I was OBE - Overtaken By Events Sam
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
src replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Nice project J. That motor looks great; clean but not too clean. Like a working motor should. Sam -
It sure does seem like a lot of work Rich. If it turns out to be too much work and you go with Chucks line, he has a lot of satisfied customers. Sam
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Thanks all for the comments and those who hit the like button. Appreciated. I am definitely my worst critic. Gets me in trouble sometimes. Gaff is largely shaped, starting in on the Driver Boom tonight. First I eight squared the Gaff, you cant really see it in the picture: Then rounded everything over. Once I finish the Boom I'll give everything a final scrape and then a coat of blond shellac. then a good rubbing with linseed oil. then I can add in the blocks and figure out how to mount the parell beads: Sam
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Rich, i have been very pleased with chucks rigging material. I have been using the syren instructions for places where my enterprise instructions are lacking. They recommend wetting Your line for the foot ropes and putting a small amount of weight to it and letting it dry completely. It seemed to work well with chucks line for the foot ropes. Maybe it will work with what you have? sam
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