
src
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JO, you have the beginnings of a hull! Woo Hoo! AS the others said the decking will help strengthen the hull. I am not an engineer, but I believe what you are creating is a truss by planking the lower deck. If you have some scrap when you finish with the stringers on the upper deck you could also add some additional stringers between the bulkheads. Just measure the distance between the bulkheads at the keel and cut and glue them on right about the deck/bulkhead transition. just make sure they wont interfere with the decking or the bulwarks later. Depending on whether the interior gets planked also you could add additional stringer at the tips of the bulkheads. I am not familiar with your ship, another member may see a reason not to do that. I have no doubt they will jump in and correct me. Then we will both learn something. Sam
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Nice start Jo. Those legos can do double duty as squaring blocks. a couple of clothes pins (laundry pegs?) as a clamps and you have a nice surface to clamp against. Now, whats with the champagne??? You keep telling us you're a coffee and tea kind of gal. If your going to crack the bubbly you have to share. 😀 Sam
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That is some very nice work indeed, Steve. But, O!-Hero of ours, where be-eth the operating micro hinges on the seats???😁 I'll go back to my hole now. Sam
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That's a great way to approach life in general I have found. You can look at a situation as a challenge to overcome or a roadblock that permanently stops you cold, the choice is yours. How did you overcome the "Leaning Piece of Bulkhead"? A good SHARP chisel will make short work of that as will a file. Sam
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Looking really good Rich. You are just flying along. You get more done in a day than I do in a month. Sam
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J, Dennis, thank you, and thanks to all who hit the like button. Now, I think I need some advice. As I have commented before I am using TFFM, Lees and the Syren instructions as my inspiration and direction for my rigging, leaning heavily on the Syren instructions. I have come up on a delima, TFFM does not have a Driver Boom and the instructions for the Syren are unclear as to the rigging; they refer to the plans which I do not have. Until/unless I choose to build her I cant see paying for plans. So my question, how does the driver boom get rigged? Lees appears to show a block in a sling from the Trestle Trees but that would foul on the Gaff. Any thoughts anybody? Picture below, feel free to download and mark up if you think it would help or post a picture here. Thanks Sam How do I rig the Boom????
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Mike, So this is where you have gone off to! I guess I need to look at signatures more often when I return from one of my disappearing acts!! Sam
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In the process of hanging (shipping?) my Gaf. Apparently the Vangs should run from an eyebolt up to the block and back down to a cleat, according to TFFM and Chucks Syren. I am in the process of thinning and reshaping some of Chucks Shroud Cleats and then I will figure out a place to epoxy them on. Once I have stained them to more or less match the mahogany. OR, if somebody has a better suggestion I am open. Sam
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Caroline, that lantern looks great. For your wires try searching magnet wire. It’s really thin, you’re not drawing much to run that led. It should help you find a way to hide the wires. Now, the mounting of the lantern.... not sure what up to do there. Sam
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Mark, We are using our CNC routers more and more at work for cutting parts and speeding production. Many times we are make frames similar in method to what we do here with false keels and bulkheads. Something I have found benificial is cutting a slight taper to the alignment tabs between sections of what would be the the false keel here. It doesnt take much a few degrees, less at this scale. I have also gone as far as making the pattern different between for instance join AB and BC. It makes it harder to get parts mixed up - not that I have ever done something like that. Nope! Nor Sir, not me! Just a thought. Sam
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Jo, In addition to what the others said I think if I was doing this I would lay part 16 on the plans and secure it in some way; push pins, tape something to keep it from moving about. The I would carefully lay your keel on top of that and carefully line it up to the plans and secure it with pins, tape etc. Then with your sharpest hobby blade scalpel or razor knife trace the overlap. That will give you exactly what you need to remove. That will give you a cut line. From there carefully trim away the excess and finish with a file right to the line. You may find you have to add material down at the bottom also. Best of luck. Sam
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And she is off buying tools. She is hooked. Next it will be the Darkside of scratch building. Carl, I was making a pun off of your spirits pun by calling you a very "Punny" as apposed to "Funny" person. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pun Alas, my pun fell flat on its face due to language. Please dont Aikido-chop me. 😁 Sorry to hijack your log Jo, back to you. Sam
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
src replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Oh......Popeye the Punster Strikes Again.😂😂 Nice work J. the repair and everything look great. Mark, those hangers are still there, every time we drive down to San Diego (a 4+ hour drive each way these days) I think about that story of the F4 pilots. Side note, apparently it is now a court marshal offense to fly under the Golden Gate Bridge. Sam -
Captain!! So good to see you makin' dust again. Well done. And the tattoos on the wrists, very smart of you. But, what happens when you look in the mirror, then your left is your right and your right is your left! Sam
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Jo, Here in the States you can get rubbing alcohol (isopropyl) at drug stores. Not sure what they are called in your part of the world wherever that may be. Its where we get proscriptions filled and first aid items here. It does work with the titebond 1 and 2, not so sure about Titebond 3 though. Oh Carl.... you are SUCH a puny man!!!😅 Sam
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