cog

To those who gave likes, thank you and thanks for stopping by.
 
Kevin, thanks for the roof leak sympathy.  It must have done something because the drip has temporarily subsided.  I looked for plans but was unsuccessful, at least without traveling 6 hours to check some unknown drawings near the National Capital.  The Vance made home in at least three shipyards during its short career, starting with its original construction as a Liberty ship in an extinct North Carolina shipyard, to it’s conversion to a hospital ship in Boston and finally to its quicky retrofit in Brooklyn for war bride use.  When I found the kit of its sister ship St. Olaf I figured I was home free and stopped looking.  But I see from your build that detailed plans may be out there if you know where to look.
 
Carl, thanks for your compliment.  I think the huge expanse of white walls tends to minimize the darkness of the door highlights.
 
Steve

During the requisite mulling over on whether to attack the oversized wing dodger braces, I stood up a spare triangle to see how much effort would be involved if I tried to pare it down vertically.  With a new chisel blade in the large X-acto I pushed down and was able to cleave the toe (actually a good part of its lower leg) off.  Not too much effort and it looked doable on deck.  Then I realized I could use the test piece as a template by tweezering it against each brace.  And it worked!  There’s a little chiseling and sanding to smooth out the deck, and painting for the deck and dodgers, but the little sailors can take comfort that the trip hazard is removed but they still have something to hold onto😊


On a roll now, I installed the breakwater.  Not wanting to encounter the same size problem I decided to trim back the triangles so the base legs were all the same length and the vertical legs would follow the top slope.  Once I got the cut order figured out the braces were fitted without incident.

I hope you decide to go with the rigging Jack. It would add quite a lot to the model. there are plenty of pictures of Liberties for reference as well as the real thing not all that far from you.

I used lifecolours on my KGV. The colours are nice but nothing that could not have been made up using Grunze or Tamiya which can pretty much be diluted with water. Vajello and I are not friends and numerous people have the same opinion. 
 
Grey, as seen in direct sunlight or heavy cloud changes so much. I think it’s probably it worth getting stuck in the weeds with ‘special colours’. Modulation brings out the angles and details so you’ll need several shades of grey anyways. I agree with the very fine Tamiya rattle can primer. 
 
I think one one can be a bit of a river counter when it comes to correct colours as wartime paints would have varied by several hues.
 
This is the USS Cimaron in 1945, you can see the deck details are just delicious. I imagine a merchant marine ship would be a weathering dream! 

Hi folks, I have made some progress on the winches, with the parts now all turned, photoetched etc.  I have managed to put the ironwork (brass) for one of them together but still to add the wooden 'bed'.  The photos show the progress as I went along but still a lot of cleaning up to do.  Most of this is fine metal powder, but a few 'dags' here and there to fix. 
 
The whole assembly is only 15mm long by 11mm high.  The small handwheel was purchased but the rest of the parts including the larger hand wheel, except the tapered drum which I turned, are PE that I drew up and had etched.  The slightly grooved effect n the drum is deliberate as it had grooves for the first turns of the wire to lay up into.  I have styled this after a winch illustrated in Underhill's 'Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier'.
 
The cog wheel is two pieces of .2mm bras with tiny alignment holes which allowed me to solder them together and keep the teeth aligned.  The worm gear is still beyond my skills so I simply used some brass tube (1.5 mm).  The other handwheel is set into a short length of 1.0 mm tube, which is then partially inserted into some small brass square section, to represent the gear box for the drum brake, which is made from thin copper (bends more easily).
 
The small ding in the tapered wire drum is bigger than planned but is intend as a 'flat' to let me drill through as a starting point for the steel wire rope that will be attached.  The halliards (steel wire) were bent to the winch and remained there permanently  with the tension held by the drum brake.  My next problem is to work out how to fit this strongly enough to allow me to create a 'little' tension on the scaled halliards without pulling the winch away from the deck.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

 

 

It's the same word, but in Russian! It was an accident...

my russian is somewhat inexistent aviaamator ...
 
Very well done G.L. - dat ziet er schoon uit! - why didn't you make it so you can look through the hull inside, if I may ask?

only a few hundred pulleys to go ...

I do wonder if those still are ... I heard something about a garden avalanche near Bristol ...

maybe wait till things get less murky ...

I do wonder if those still are ... I heard something about a garden avalanche near Bristol ...

I do wonder if those still are ... I heard something about a garden avalanche near Bristol ...

It won't be easy to get that difference in materials flush ... ever tried spray filler? Often a primer and filler at the same time.
Nice progress though

Go one level deeper - there's a sub-category under Shore Leave - Non-ship/categorized builds

Short update and more.
 
If you're visiting you are probably wonder where had I gone and what have I been up to?
 
Well I am back on my build, have been for weeks.  I can proudly say it no longer bothers me to remove frames.  It used to tear at my heart and soul.  Lord knows how many times I've put them on and taken them off in the last few weeks.  I do not give it a second thought anymore.
I have gotten frames installed past the location where I last stopped before summer.  To recap, I had taken them all off back to the Forward Fashion Pieces, and then I swung my hand over the model and snapped off one of the two forward fashion pieces.  It has been remade and installed and it is all now looking good with good alignment.  After too many removals and re-installations my CDO (OCD for others) is satisfied.  The plan is that I will be putting all frames in (sanding to shape when the aft cant and fore cant frames are installed and then again when those between are in) then marking off the gun ports, then removing frames individually, cutting the gun ports and notches for the cills, and finally replacing them as I go along.  It will be a long process as I have many interests and diversions and so do not seem to advance as quickly as other modellers.  I will only post when I've something substantial or worthy to look at (or am stumped and need advise) so do not think I've gone for good if you don't see a progress report for awhile.  Building and installing frames is repetitive work.
 
Meanwhile I have been lucky enough to have had an opportunity to review all but ten of the 150 issues of the Model Shipwright Magazine (1972 - 2008) and have scanned numerous articles, tips and tricks, etc. that caught my fancy.  I will be getting a few more next month.
From these I got the idea of a hardwood cutting (sawing/chiselling board).  So Yesterday I made one.  This inspired me to make a holding setup block for my protractor to free up my hand when setting the adjustable bed on my sander.  I had tried numerous methods from clamps to different style protractors but the one in the photo below is my favourite and now I can have one hand on the Allen Key and the other holding the bed.
I also attached one photo of my build table as of this morning.
 
Before Christmas I had built a 1:12 scale 9 pound naval cannon (posted on the forum).  The cannon and balls were 3D printed for free at the local library.  After several attempts they got something I could use but it was in two halves (Breech/Muzzle) and I had to 2 part epoxy glue it together.  I found the insignia difficult to see through the Plexiglas case so I had increased the size and finally coloured (painted) it to highlight so it would stand out.  I have since purchased a 3D printer and have printed a one piece cannon (1:12) with the insignia at the proper size.  One fellow at our club at our meeting earlier this month told me how to clean up the plastic a bit and paint the cannon with an acrylic flat black spray paint.  He says the insignia will likely be more noticeable if flat black versus the shiny plastic.  So I will be attempting this.  Meanwhile I've been trying to print it at 1:64 scale.  My first few attempts were a disaster.  Today's attempt was better but not quite there yet.  Too many adjustments to get it right for the small scale and specific type of PLA plastic... the learning curve.  The picture below shows my one piece 1:12 print along with the printer attempting the 1:64 in the background.
 
I apologise for the long story but you may not see another post for awhile.

only a few hundred pulleys to go ...

my russian is somewhat inexistent aviaamator ...
 
Very well done G.L. - dat ziet er schoon uit! - why didn't you make it so you can look through the hull inside, if I may ask?

even the stiching on the seats ... 

the one you've got the pdf from, but without all the drawings

Got 4 or five sets. They are not more or less difficult than this drainage mill. Got them through another site dhm besides that I've got a book on their construction and use with the accompanying plans unfortunately OOP. One of the sets is the 8kante poldermolen so you can still build another 3

my russian is somewhat inexistent aviaamator ...
 
Very well done G.L. - dat ziet er schoon uit! - why didn't you make it so you can look through the hull inside, if I may ask?

only a few hundred pulleys to go ...

Greg, you only need to do the netting it seems, the rest they'll know by now you can do it

The cranes are in.   One of them hit one of the launches so I had to put it in a different position. But it’s OK it looks pretty good to me
 
oh and  A bulb blew out so the lighting in these two photos sucks. 
 

Thank you Carl,
 
Because there are enough openings in the bulkheads to see the inside.

Thank you very much Aviaamator, but I do not understand a word of it.