coxswain

More progress, rigging, masts and propeller.
 

This post is describing how I am designing the 1812 period frames.  I have opted for 3/16" frames with 1/4" frame spacing (9" frames, 12" spacing actual).  This was built as a commercial vessel and no specific information remains on her so I am free to choose.
 
The issue is the hull as built now is an unsinkable Molly Brown, built to Coast Guard specs for carrying passengers.  If you squint hard you can sort of think of a Bermuda Sloop.  My intent is to produce a model that is more period but still retains the known views on deck and above.
 
1.  I first took the deck outline and laid down the frames and spacing as identified.  My anchor point was the slight step rise between the main deck and the aft deck.  I put this as a frame then went forward and aft from this.  This resulted in 25 full frames identified.

2.  Then I defined these frames onto the ship as built currently.  This allowed me to identify the associated frames (thin laminates) that were associated to each of my frames.

3.  I then drew the updated profile view spacing the 11 drawn Chapman frame slices at similar locations.  I also added a three part identified for each frame:  My frame #, the original plan equivalent, the Chapman frame line equivalent.
 

4.  I scanned in the Chapman lines and duplicated them to allow full forward and aft frame lines.

5.  On the actual frame views, I drew in a centerline and the newly defined waterline for my boat at that location.

6.  On my drafting table I drew crosshairs to align the centerline and waterline of each frame.  I put the existing frame drawing under the velum and copied only the lines above the waterline.

7.  I then defined the bottom of the frame measuring from my profile view.  I then slid in the Chapman Bermuda Sloop lines that I had scaled to as close as possible to the targeted size.  I was happy to find a relatively close match at the waterline for intersecting.  I traced in the resulting lines below the waterline to the keel.

8.  When I pull away the Chapman lines I am left with a pretty good shell of the frame at that station.

9.  I then added the building board location (Hahn style build), frame extensions, keel, etc.  It didn't take too long to make 7 of the 11 targeted frames.

My intent is to make bulkheads of these 11 frames using 3/16" basswood and use them to verify all is well.  Eventually full frames using 3/32" wood will be created for the final framing.  I believe this will result in a true Bermuda Sloop shaped hull of the period that will allow the deck as currently exists to be also created. 
 
I am open to suggestions for improvement but will hold the final say on implementation LOL.
Cheers, Mark
 

I've glued up the complete main frames. Very little trimming or adjusting was necessary, and I'm more than happy with the results. Especially considering all the dramas I had to get to this point  .
 
Now to make 16 more wheels, see you all again in a week or so  :





Danny

Actually Ken, until I glued the arm to the cylinder clevis it DID all work  .
 
Still no laser-cut stuff, so I made up the main brake cylinder assembly :

I needed a few more red bolt heads, so I used this method to paint some primed (formerly black) laser-cut ones :

Danny

Sincere condolences, I am sorry to hear this news.
 
Otherwise, very glad to have found this log. An exceptional work. One detail; the personal 'device' -- the red fabric 'flags' of the kit looks wrong to me. The ship was a private vessel that iirc flew the Holy League (distinctive blue with Jesus' crucufixion detail) colours like this:
 
Best regards,
 
 

Post 26
Companionways and hatches
I will start with the Companion to the Captain’s Cabin, effectively a hinged sky light.
This is reproduced in the kit as a brass etched item, with the coamings and head ledges pre-formed in a wood material. These are shaped to reflect the proper joints rather than a simple edge join.
The item goes together very well and it is a straightforward assembly particularly for the novice builder.
The kit version is as per the drawings in the Goodwin Alert book. A boxy affair with a flat top and glazed square lights.
A slight puzzlement is that the kit version has 42 lights contained within the frame whereas the book drawing has 30 lights, which for me looks better, less like a grating.
 
There seems to be as many variations of the Skylight design fitted to Alert as there are models and paintings.
 
Within the Alert book there is a contemporary painting of a model dated 1775 showing a clerestory style skylight.
The contemporary model of Hawke (circa 1777) shows the familiar pitched roof glazed sides version.
The modern Cole model of Alert has a glazed top but longer, and in a different position.
The Irving Kingman model also has a version of the pitched roof style of skylight.
 
I made up the kit version but I tweaked the thickness of the framing to allow for the skylight to sit in a recess rather than just positioned atop the Head ledges and coamings.

3242
Using micro brass tubing I added hinges to allow opening of the light.
 
My preference is for something slightly more interesting than the kit provided item, so I opted for the clerestory style as shown in the painting of the model of ‘Alert.’

The oil painting by Joseph Marshall 1775.
 
 The notation in the Goodwin Alert book reads:-
An oil painting of the Alert cutter model dated 1775. Various features comply exactly to the modified draught of the Rattlesnake used for the 1777 Alert. These include the squared gunports, the five shroud deadeyes and three backstays chain plates. The painting formed part of the George111 Collection of ship model paintings.


This is at variance to the notation in The Science Museum:- who hold the painting, and gives the date as 1755. Perspective view, possibly drawn to illustrate an experimental design rather than an actual plan. a model is known to have been built from design of Sir J Acworth d.1749. - Not part of the series of ship model paintings commissioned by King George III. - Ship is cutter, 6th Rate; eight were in service 1753-1754

Interesting to note that the table on which the model sits, does say ‘Alert’.

The paired stern quarter view painting
 
Regardless of these descriptions, the model as painted does look very close in design to the Alert I am modelling.
Still I digress.

3241
This is the first attempt of creating the skylight using a bit of Boxwood scrap.
My prime concern was getting the scale looking right as I don’t have specific dimensions, but it looks ok to my eye.

3232(2)
A view as per Joseph Marshall’s painting.
 
B.E.
26/10/2019
 

Before doing the bollard timbers, I started fairing the interior of the bulwarks, as suggested by Chuck. As much of a pain as the hull exterior was to fair, the interior seems even worse. Using chisels, a Dremel sanding drum and sandpaper, I started at the bow and continued back about halfway, before deciding that was enough for now.
 
I then moved on to the bollard timbers. It is fortunate that Chuck has provided a number of extra blanks in the laser package, as I needed all of them. Even then, my work was hardly perfect.  Little errors would occur and be exposed immediately by photography. What you will see are the best that I came up with.
 
Bob
 
Bob

Hi - managed to get some planks down on the lower gun deck.  The ends of the planks on the left opening will not show - the grating will cover that area.
 

 
 
 
Mark

Just thought I'd throw this photo in for something different. Perhaps the most
photographed scene on my layout. 
 

John Elwood

Hi there Norm,
 
Thanks for all those photos. I've heard many very positive comments about the museum from fellow modelers
who have visited there. From your many photos, I can see why.
 
I have yet to get back to the Portland. My overall health has slipped to a point where the passion to build has
diminished considerably. I did finish the trestle however.
 

Although it doesn't show, there are 374 pieces in this model, all cut from sprues. I estimate 70+ hours of work. It is to
be installed on a friends Northern Pacific layout over Elwood Gulch. You couldn't pay me to build another one.
 
John Elwood
 
 
 

Hello!
 
Due to the holidays, we will need the dining room table back to normal, so my Portland is going into dry dock until January.  Wishing everyone a great holiday season!
 
 

@ScottRC, here's some older plans for her which might be helpful. I am having a hard decision on changing the Jib sails to this configuration on the old plans, plus they also show the boom sails implemented. I have used the "Blue Jackets" sail plan but for some odd reason I feel this plan is better for the Jib sails placement. I need yawls opinion also on this. Should I change the bowsprit jib locations to this older plan or keep with "Blue Jackets" plan??
 
Older plans being discussed:

Here's a crop of the Blue Jackets bowsprit sail plan:

I'm leaning toward the older print as it looks more historically correct. What do you think? 
 
 

Here's the corrected patterns which will be adjusted a couple mm in height to match the rigging block mounts already installed. I will be gently be sewing the finished sails in place as I install them. But this procedure is further down the road as I have more rigging to do before sail installing begins.

 

Scott, glad your enjoying the build and really appreciate the interest! That's great to have held on to her and then wanting to bring her back out and fix her up. I agree on the price's for these kits now; it's incredible they keep going up in price and they seem to be disappearing quickly so they interest in them is there. What year is your kit?
 
Iv'e got the preliminary sail rigging done for the bowsprit and sizing sails now, here's test image for the sails along with telling me what size adjustments I need to make with my paper note book patterns. I'll work on enlarging them and show the pattern image corrected size soon.
 

I do have a private sail maker as I mentioned before. We are working on the sails and different material for the delicate mounting on this rigging so not to overwhelm the rigging in weight of the sails. I don't want any sagging going on and we will probably do them in paper sails which are available in different types. To produce exact cloth sails I am looking at about $300.00 which is way to high and they are way to heavy. These are some unique model parts of her which must be exact along with size and historical shape in the implementation of them. Time consuming but a high quality model is worth it!

Gentlemen if you have have the time threw my research I had found this very informative video. Basically a private class about these historical ships in the "Age of sails".
 
 

Normally this would be the moment to test fit the frames. Unfortunately the slots in keel are way too big than frame thickness and I didn't checked in advance.

So I postponed this step until I will have everything else and I will be ready to permanently fix them. I will NOT test and glue them one by one, but once I test and fix with fillings all of them, I will not take them out to carry other operations, just glue them one by one, otherwise it would be almost impossible to match again fillings. 
 
I have cut rabbet line. Basswood is too soft for my taste. It split very easily. The cut is far from perfect, but I tried several techniques. 
First, cut a template for rabbet line on laser side BEFORE you cut it. Your life will be much easier. Alternatively, you can use carbon copy paper.

First techniques was the one they recommend and the most obvious one: cut the bottom with a x-acto knife and then use a straight blade to remove material starting from bearding line. 
Pro: depending on your skills and patience the cut could be perfect.
Cons:... or a disaster. You need a firm hand and lots of patience. There is a lot of material to remove. You'll need good, sharp blades. Is hard to make the a consistent 1/16" (1.6mm) deep cut, even doing several passes, as I found myself. 
2nd technique was milling. 
Pro: the height (deep) of the cut is guaranteed. If you have the skills and can control the piece, you'll get a nice cut
Cons: it might be hard to follow the curvature. Also, basswood is not easy to mill, is too soft. Can't go more than 0.5mm at once and the cut is not clean.
 
So one side I cut it manually, then I passed it through mill to get a consistent deep cut. Them sand it again using a Proxxon micro pen, which proved very useful and can keep the bottom cut straight. 
 
The final result is not bad. It needs more sanding, but I will do it at the end. Now I'm afraid I'll take too much because the wood is so soft.
 
I have also Jefferson Davis. I will apply the experience gained with America on it.

Upon cleaning the deck, it became apparent that thick layers of stain had been applied to the deck.  Probably an interim "spruce up".  The ladders are also preventing a thorough access to surfaces. They will be removed and cleaned. I am working to carefully remove some of the stain without injuring the wood. I am pleased with the result but I anticipate that the cannon will be in the way too.  I don't want to disturb them.  Hmmmm I'll work around them for now. The first photo shows the difference in the top decks that are stripped and the "spruced up" deck surfaces.

I keep running into small splits and sprung wood. Under different conditions I might replace the affected areas but under the given guidelines I will only reglue, sand, fill and smooth to the extent the original blemishes are rectified.

Not much new to show. I'm preparing yards. Lot of sanding and lot of mess.

I own the Sherline mill so I guess I'll weigh in with a few things to consider. Before I do, though, if you don't already own a metal lathe, I'd recommend making that your first purchase over a mill. You will use it FAR more often. That aside, the main thing to consider between the Sherline and a mini-mill is the size. I sometimes find the Sherline to be a bit small for some things I'd like to do. But I simply don't have room in my shop for a larger mill. The mini-mill offers more travel in all three axes than the Sherline and that could occasionally be useful. At the time I bought my mill, Sherline didn't offer larger and taller columns, but they do now, so that would be something to consider.  On the other hand, the large mini-mills are MUCH heavier. The one Micromark sells weighs 110 pounds. There's no chance I could get that up on a cabinet by myself or even get it out of the box! As for power, I have not found any limitation with the Sherline. I'm not trying to hog out 1/4" deep cuts in steel with a half-inch cutter, of course. On the other hand, if I needed some deep cut in steel, I could do it with the Sherline - it just might take a little longer.  For ship modeling, it's not likely you're going to need a lot of power and you're probably going to be cutting more brass and wood than you are steel.
 
One feature I like on the Sherline that I don't believe is available on the MM mill is the ability to rotate the headstock by 90 degrees. I'm not talking about rotating the column - just the headstock. When I make propellers, I use this feature to cut slots in the hub. There's probably a way to do that without rotating the headstock but it seems to me it would require a more difficult setup.
 
If you decide to go with Sherline, you might want to compare prices at Discount Campus - http://www.discountcampus.com/
I've bought all my Sherline equipment through them because they offer a better price. They are an authorized reseller and, in fact, the equipment winds up getting shipped directly from Sherline in any case.
 
Another thing to consider is adding the DRO option. I don't have it on my lathe and don't miss it, but I find it VERY useful on the mill. And, by all means, get it with one of the accessory packages. Also consider a rotary table. Very useful for things like steering wheels.
 
Bottom line, if I had it to do over again, I'd go with the Sherline with larger table and column.
 
Hope that helps some -
John
 

I can't speak from firsthand experience, but Sherline is highly thought of for a small lightweight machine tool in their price range. MicroMark just retails Sherline products. I'd urge you to check Sherline's website. Last time I checked, they sold some pretty good packaged deals and if you run into any problems, it's likely going to be a lot easier dealing with the manufacturer directly than going through MicroMark. As you probably know, the tooling can end up running as much as a lathe or mill to equip it well. 
 
I'd also suggest you take a look at Grizzly's line of small mills. They are Asian-built, but Grizzly has good quality control and excellent customer service. https://www.grizzly.com/search?q=(mills)'
 
As said above, if you have any use for a mill at all, you'll probably soon have a use for a larger one than what you bought. The Sherline is a rather small machine with limited power. It's nice to have the ability to do more with a larger, more powerful machine.
 
Above all, look for a machine that has common tooling parameters. If you have a machine that requires proprietary or oddball tooling, prepare to take out a second mortgage. 
 
 

I had the MM milling machine.  Not great, but not bad.  The more could have been more powerful and bed wider (front to back) but serviceable for modeling. It did have some vibration issues as the motor assembly/chuck, etc. was set up to be tilted and I think that wasn't a good thing for stability or accuracy.   I currently have a mill from Little Machine Shop Model 4660.  It's pricier than the MM but wow... more accurate and many of the accessories I bought for the MM machine work just fine on the one I have now.  
 
I did look at the Sherline but I ended up with the Little Machine Shop one but off the top of my head, I don't remember why.

Micro Mark is a dealer, so the question is which machines did you look at ? I gather they mainly import machines from China, but have some sort of quality control, which you may not have, when you buy e.g. directly.
 
When choosing your first machine it might also be important to assess your own machining skills and whether you feel capable to make your own attachments - and the will to learn it.
 
Sherline offers a fairly complete range of attachments. My concern would be that the structural material is aluminium, but it seems that many successful modellers and horologists use them without problems. Perhaps one should not work too much steel with them.
 
An old rule-of-thumb when buying a machine is that one should go for one twice the size/capacity one thinks first ... this means one should think carefully about what kind of parts/attachments/fixtures you expect to make. This determines the travel along the three axes.
 
A modeller doesn't really 'need' a (milling) machine - after all it is a hobby. However, once you have one, you will wonder, how you managed without one up to then
 

A few progress, as I am turning the sail floor into Swiss cheese. Again, the fantastic PE set from RCSubs is perfectly designed and provides a very nice fit: 


Nice instructions from RCSubs too, a lot easier to follow than the Trumpeter manual, which is rather vague: 

When I am done, that part will just be a skeleton.
 
Yves
 
 

Good morning.

A little progress - the inner bulwarks were planked & painted red.  I pre-painted the lowest plank before glueing in place so I didn`t have to mask anything off.  Next will be the fittings for this deck - they need to be done before fixing the upper decks in place.  The ship`s stove should be interesting - it is provided in etched brass!
 

 

 

 
Mark