coxswain

Hope everyone is enjoying 2020.  With the holidays, work, and a diversion into plastic models, I haven't been devoting as much time recently to the LAR.  I did manage to line out the gunports on the gun deck level.  
 
All I can say is this took forever!  The gunport patterns on other European kits like Caldercraft and Amati are a godsend.  Given that there are 14 gunports per side, I thought it was important that there be smooth line to the ports, that they be square, and that they be even with each other.  Hopefully the pictures below show clearly my particular method.  Essentially, I spent many hours marking out the 10mmx10mm gunports by transferring measurements from the plans, drilled a 2mm hole in the center, and ran a brass rod through to make sure that the gunports on either side were square to each other and level with one another.  Then after cutting out the 10mmx10mm gunports, I ran a square 10mmx10mm through to make sure that everything was still lined up.
 
Since I'm lining the ports, i went ahead with adding 2mmx2mm sills, opening the gunports to 14mmx14mm.  This was fairly easy using a micromotor with a small cut off wheel.  The cut off wheel made for quick, straight work.  The sills ultimately will be about 1mm, so I have an extra 1mm to overlap them with the second outer hull planking.
 
I'm using padouk that I picked up from Woodcraft.  It's an interesting wood - nice color (though will dull to an orange-brown over time, interesting smell when worked, and machines fairly easily.  It does have pits in it like mahogany, but these fill up pretty nicely when sanded.  Hopefully when I apply a finish there will be no visible pits.  You have to be careful with the dust as it can be an irritant, so I worked using a respirator and a shop vac going at all times.  It also can stain very light wood, so you have to be a little careful with that as well.
 
To get ready for the inner bulwark planking, I decided to remove most of the gunport-level bulkhead frames.  That was not at all easy but took lots of micromotor work.  I was a bit nervous doing so, but I had rubbed PVA all over the first planking which kept the planking very stable.
 
Next up will either be the inner bulwark planking or the exterior planking.  Given that the interior bulwark planking will largely be invisible, I might start with it, so that when I do the outer hull planking, clamping and pinning issues might be easier to deal with.





 

 

 

 

Today is "Go out and buy her expensive jewelry day". Otherwise known as her birthday. Within a few hours of my writing this I will be a thousand dollars poorer and immune for a couple of days from your petty efforts of blackmail John. In fact I should be good until Mother's Day, or is Anniversary next? Better get that straightened out or this build will never get done and you can forward my mail to the camping trailer in the back yard that we bought last year before I broke my ankle.
 
As for display room in this house? The dolls themselves would probably rise up in the night if there was even a rumor that they were getting displaced by mere models! The only one that would stand a chance is the Titanic! In fact she asked about that build just yesterday. 

Channels and the like added!

The instructions are brief but mention painting at this point.  So I’m waving off on the use of the shavings here and simply following the instructions as best I can. I keep running a foul with the kit.  The bits of wood for the bow ‘plates’ or ‘cheeks’ were too small. Drilling the hole through the deck and hull for the rudder was tricky. 

I got a bit smarter with this hull,  since noticing that a couple of the bulkheads had shifted slightly,  when I began to fare the frame.  taking a couple of strips,  I strung them along the sides,  keeping the fame in alignment while the deck platform was cemented in place.


I had a look at the frame tonight,  and removed all the clips.  doing it in this fashion also produced a nice camber to the platform.

hello Ed......welcome to the log {s} if your new look'in in.   yep.......a second hull.    I felt bad........watching J building his with the old dried out wood.........and here I am cutting my parts from good fresh plywood.   hardly seems fair,  if you know what I mean...........   I'm only fool'in..........actually,  it's just that I still have these parts and haven't the heart to throw them away....I am a certified pack rat at heart.   as you have read......neither of us got a good shake with the contents of these kits.   the wood is around 50 years old.......some of J's was warped,  and a good portion of the deck planking in my kit is junk.......most of the dowels in my kit are warped!   it's a good thing I  bought up a fair inventory of dowel    I'm intrigued with the picture on the box....I like the way she looks.....although, even in that picture I think the mast are too tall.  for the time being,  I'll post the progress of the second hull here until I come up with a name for her....then I'll create a separate log for her.   I'll keep it low key to cut out the confusion.
 
                                                                                   The Second Hull
 
I had to repair the bulkheads that the outer laminates peeled off.  using the appropriate thickness of basswood sheet,  they were re-laminated.
 
the parts 10A and 1A that I had made for the first hull,  were also cut out for this hull.   as it equates out.....about 80 % is the original wood.  there was this long stick like length from cutting out the keel part lying about....I threw the rest away.   just for the fun of it,  I took the outer laminates off of it.......I did it with my fingers!   

the next day,  the rest of the bulkheads were finished off.

I had cut a few extra of part #9........I cut one in half for the parts 9A.   part #7 was the worse one.....both sides had to be redone.   ready to go......the first bulkhead was glued in place.

 I had already traced out the deck parts in 1/16 sheet basswood

most of the bulkheads are in place now.............the #9 bulkhead added later.   the rest will be added off the jig,  but I'm gonna add wood in places to stiffen the frame up.
  
spent some time cutting out the deck parts.......first the platform
  
it's had all night to dry........so I'll add more to the frame today
 

thanks J for runn'in interference for me!         yea.......jee,  thanks Tim for showing us your model........the gentleman did a great job in building her {anyone who can decipher this load of bollocks is to be commended}!
    as mentioned.......the hull frame is not a complete frame to begin with....I feels that parts are missing at the bow and stern.   I see he planked the model all the way to the edge of the bow stem...interesting observation.  it's great to see a model of this kit,  utilizing all of the supplied parts.....we can get a better sense of the kit  HEY!!!!!!  where in the blue blazes did he get 2 boats!!!!!!!!  I want two boats..............   feel free to add a few more pictures,  if you'd like  
 
once you get away from the bulwarks J,  I found that the stern needs to be tapered.  this update will show you what needs to be done.  who knows,  it may be required to jog a plank back there or something.  we have to remember that this little girl has a small tookus    first though I messed with the masts and steps some more.  the main mast step is already in place,  seeing that it sits on one of the rises in the keel.

for the fore mast,  I had to raise it up some,  so it won't interfere with the planking.

with these pots in place,  the rake of the masts are acceptable.  the rake on the fore mast should be around 5 to 6 degrees,  and the main mast should be a bit more.  
  

the above pictures point out another potential problem.   on most plank on bulkhead models,  the bulkheads have the slot at the base,  to fit over the keel spine,   allowing the planking to have a slight curvature to the spine.  the hang over of the bulkheads will initiate the curvature,  that defines the hull from the keel spine.   they also limit how much spine will show after the model is planked........the garboard plank usually initiates the curvature.  if this is not possible,  which looks the case for this model,  the keel spine may have to be trimmed to reflect this aspect.   here we have two options.......add material so that all of the involved bulkheads have this feature.  or blunt them all off,   so the planking will do the same,  and trim the keel spine.  an acceptable amount of visible keel spine is around 1/4 of an inch,  I would say.   it's not being fair to the model though......#4 through #8 had these slots,  but the wood was so old that the tips were destroyed in the cutting process.   on hull #2,  I tried my best to make the bulkheads with them intact.  I did get a little further on the planking.   I originally though that the hull could be planked with full strip.......a mistake caused me to repair a couple of the strakes at the bulwark {on the port side,  I believe}.   so I changed over to doing a butt in different places,  breaking up the full plank runs.   it didn't take long for this to change either.........the stern changed things for me.  the counter and transom is a lot smaller than the bow.......even more so when you get to the bilge,  or chine as it is also called.  so far,  the bow is following the mid ship,  as far as plank spacing goes.......don't leave out the option that one or two strakes will need to be tapered.  what makes this harder,  is that there is no center {keel} spine that the transom bulkhead attaches to.........the instructions does call for some type of bracing.
{earlier picture}
before I had nothing in there,  but J had done something,  other than using the supplied parts [#13},  so I added them in.   I believe J positioned his part #10 perpendicular for his model........I positioned mine at a slight angle,  about 2 degrees or so.  since there were no posts for the transom,  I scratch made a part {#10A} adding posts to it....a modification of the original part.   I also added that second pair of bulkheads w/posts {#9A} to decrease the amount of spacing between bulkheads #9 and #10,  since the deck platform had an extra pair of bulwark post slots.  if the stern stem was all the way back to the transom,  things would be different.  but the rudder runs up through the counter,  leaving no center rib in there to terminate the planking.  in that picture,  one more strake on the starboard side would put me even with the port side.

I ran three strakes here,  one bulkhead shorter that the previous one...I'm adding in the second tapered plank in this picture.
  
so this is where I am with this hull.   small problems,  but it's coming along fairly well     the fun doesn't stop here............

Here's the main sling installed
 

One side ready for painting, after squaring and lining the gunports, weathered the wales to match the rest

13th video on the series, as usual, any coment is welcomed
 
 

Yesterday I finished planking the starboard side by adding the stern post.
I did some sanding, but that is not completely finished yet.
Here are some photos.
and some more pictures from the hull upside down.

 
 

Stabilit express glued in a wooden stick for reinforcement. Just in case, some of the rigging rope to be attatched.  

Ha, ha,  Spy, I daren't stop now I might not have the momentum to pick up again.
 
Fiddling with tiny blocks and strops this morning, spending half the time on my knees searching  the floor before my canine assistant finds them.

 
That would be ok but it's finders keepers as far as he is concerned.
 
 
B.E.

Post 75

I have diverted from rigging the Bowsprit to fit the Cat Block and tackle to the catheads so I can assess the relative position of the anchor gear in relation to the Bowsprit shrouds.

 
Cat Block

This is traditionally a substantial iron bound block with hook used to raise the anchor.

4615
Steel indicates a 12” block which scales to 4.8mm. I have gone with a 4mm block, 5mm looked just too large in relation to the Cathead.

The ‘iron’ strapping is applied to the block and a hook inserted.

 
Cat Tackle

The tackle which runs between the Cathead sheaves and the block comprises 3” line. I have opted for Syren 0.3mm line.

This is attached to an eyebolt beneath the Cathead, rove thro’ the sheaves and belayed inboard to a cleat on the Cathead upright.
With the Shroud held in position as shown both in the Alert Book and the kit instructions, a problem is immediately highlighted.


4610
As can be seen with the Starboard anchor the whole arrangement sits behind the shroud and the anchor could not be worked without fouling.

 

4617
On the Port side the situation is the same except the angle of the shroud which is less due to the offset Bowsprit, is closer to the anchor.


Cheerful model
To confuse matters this shot of the Cheerful model does show the anchor tackle inside of the shroud lanyards, but the anchor is much smaller than on Alert, and looks to slip easily between shroud and stem.

 
Moving onto a stowed anchor


4621
This is a mock-up with the anchor in the only stowed position available. For the purpose of the exercise the anchor is a Caldercraft version which is close to the kit anchor size.

 

4619
In this shot the anchor ring is still attached to the cat hook, but the stopper is also deployed.

 
The Stopper, a heavier line, I used 0.63mm, is used to secure the anchor ring. It is knotted on one end, passes thro’ an eyebolt on the forward side of the Cathead, thro’ the anchor ring, thro’ the snatch block on the aft side of the Cathead and is secured to a timberhead.


4628
In this shot the Cat hook has been detached and the anchor ring is held by the stopper. This would be the normal arrangement once an anchor had been raised.

 

4626
With the anchor stowed the original position of the shroud connection just doesn’t work. The least impracticable position seems to be between the hawse hole and the Cathead bracket.

 
Time to see how the re-positioned shrouds work out.


4630(2)
The anchor cable running inside the shrouds is not an issue.

 

4633
This is the unprepped kit anchor which I will use but the stock will have to be replaced.

These anchors do look large for the model, but they are of the given scale dimensions.

With the re-positioned shroud the anchor can be displayed hanging from the Cat block.


4634(2)
That Bowsprit is some spar, they should have named the cutter Narwhal.


4635
I think the shrouds look ok in this position, the Alert book drawings are not very helpful, but the photo’s of Hawke do appear to show the shrouds closer to the position above.

4637
I suppose I could have winged it and simply lashed the anchors to the rail as per the kit, but for those with eyes to see, letting go of the anchor would have been very interesting.

 
 
B.E.

28/02/2020

I should post that I've had some PM with MESSIS and I had sent him a corrected image for the French rigging.
 
The image in post 5 above is more, I believe, for English ships.

Moving on to the innerwalls... 

Thanks Jason, I been missing your updates. Hope it sorts it out soon. Every plank i dont spend enough time on stands out.
 
I am not completely happy but here is the result after scraping. 

The chain slings for the yards are protected from chafing around the mast by being wrapped in leather, like the main stay etc.
 
I wrapped the chain in paper towel soaked with Elmer's and painted it after it dried with wood-color paint.

@SpyGlass Thank you again! Its actualy hard to come on all this you just explaind if someone hasnt the luck to sail such a sailship.
 
So, posting a picture of what I have done. Thats the maximum I can succeed by keeping wind into the sails.
 

With no flying jib boom it would be Jib Sail, (out front) Fore Topmast Stay Sail, and Fore Staysail (back aft).
Your images do not have the Fore Staysail rigged or raised.
The traveller on the Jib Sail is hauled about halfway aft on the jib boom.

Here you go

hello Dr. Per........thanks for the info    I order two book.......I believe it was you that suggested them to J......I received Lennarth Petersson's book the other day and I just got Underhill's book today.  the diagram sheet shows the length of the mast segment in lines
  
along with this is the mast part arrangement.   the first steps of the masts are both 6 mm..........the fore mast is 413 mm,  and the main mast is 381 mm.  I'm looking at them thinking that they are too long.....even knowing that they include the mast roots.  where I plan on going the schooner route,  these masts have only two segments each........I will have to find out the masts total height when fully assembled.  I hope they can be narrowed down with the books,  because they certainly aren't specified on the diagram sheet.  the scale of the model is 1:60.
 
I always plank from the bulwarks down J........that way I can hide my mistakes below the waterline........paint can hide a multiple of sin    I haven't done much today.......took the admiral to the doctors.......out to breakfast,  and then to the grocery store.   broke my driver inside door handle,  so now I gotta fix it   luckily,  it's a small job.   now I'm scaring up the parts for the second hull......yea......the first one hasn't driven me batty enough,  wanna times it by two and REALLY turn up the heat     figure I'll get in there later and make some more sawdust.

Lining of gun port on lower gun deck on port side is done. Lining is done from a balsa tube (shown by other builders here at MSW) made from 1 mm balsa. It is a fast and simple method of lining the gun ports and ensures that each gun port gets the same size and correct rectangular shape.


Regards
 
Henrik

Impressive!! It is like being on the deck, Mate. What a beautiful model, so precise and so perfect in every little details.
 
Yves

Thanks @Mirabell61 @yvesvidal
 
Coils around the main mast.