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capnharv2

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  1. capnharv2
    Gary, I've been following your build from back when you posted it in the Warrior group. It's been a real joy to see it come to life, and I admire your patience and attention to detail through all these years. Thanks for sharing with us. Harvey
  2. capnharv2
    You're building a full scale sub?? Seriously Piet, your interior is fantastic (as is the rest of the boat). I see the things that you and Cap'n'Bob have done on your boat interiors. It's really great work to aspire to. I also had an idea-you should put a dark stain on the toilet seat lid-then it would look like the ones you can buy at Home Depot Thanks, Harvey
  3. capnharv2
    Okay. Have fun and say hi to Oli!
  4. capnharv2
    Floyd, If you need extra planking material, please let me know. I've got quite a bit of cherry, walnut and maple laying around-and more basswood than I'll ever need. With Jim's sander you should be in business. Also, I can run up to your house if you like. Thanks, Harvey
  5. capnharv2
    Piet, Sorry I missed out the last few weeks. She is looking really nice! I love the interior detail and planking! Harvey
  6. capnharv2
    Looking good Dave! And glad to see you back at it! Harvey
  7. capnharv2
    Very nice!
  8. capnharv2
    Mark, Do you have something like that for the beer? Oh, wait Harvey
  9. capnharv2
    Hi Crackers, Sorry, I think that's an Eastport Pinky. I'll double check the BlueJacket site because I know they make kits of Friendship Sloops (I've built both the large and small one, and have 2 more small ones around the house). Some of the features of the Friendship Sloop (I hope I don't repeat what Piet said too much) are a Clipper bow, Elliptic stern, strong sheer, and lots of drag to the keel. That said, I've got a set of plans of a FS from the 1950's with a spoon bow. Piet, those are nice lines. I see you've put a lot of work into them. I'm glad you've reduced the cabintop height. I've seen a Friendship "schooner" up here (essentially a FS with a schooner rig) and it had a lot of curvature to the cabintop to get standing headroom. It's hard to get standing HR on these boats because the bow is so shallow and the stern is so deep (relative to the bow). Our boat (25' on deck) has 4 1/2 feet of headroom, and I believe the Dictator models (31' on deck) have about 6 feet. Oh, one other thing-I've had a lot of people call our Friendship Sloop a Cutter. It's not-the mast is too far forward, the main too big and the headsails too small. I believe the FSS calls for the mast to be 20% of the LOD aft of the stempost. That's why it's called a twin headsail sloop. I'm going to enjoy watching this build too! Who brought popcorn? Harvey
  10. capnharv2
    Very, VERY nice!
  11. capnharv2
    Wefalck, Thanks for your post. I read about plunge milling after I broke an end mill (trying to take too much off in one pass). I was able to clean up the sides of the slot in brass by using a mill smaller than the final width of the slot. I had some material that I could take off to clean up the slot. I'll get some carbide end mills when I'm back to milling wood. About how much faster should a carbide bit turn than HSS? Thanks, Harvey
  12. capnharv2
    Hi Frank, I guess misery loves company Yes, the Doug Briney book is a good intro. I have it and use it a lot. There are a lot of lathe and mill web sites and YouTube videos too. A lot of them deal with materials and sizes we would never use. But, with some research, there probably are some good ones out there. One site I've been looking at is the mini-mill web site http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/Main/mini-mill.htm They have a lot of good information. The Little Machine Shop has some good info too: http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Info/getting_started.php And by all means go to the Sherline web site: http://www.sherline.com/ Look at the build logs from Danny Vadas and Ed Tosti, as well as some of Chuck Passaro's postings to get and idea of the tooling they use (I apologize to the dozens of other wonderful modelers out there who do beautiful work-it's just that Ed, Danny and Chuck were the first that came to mind). Hopefully that will help. Thanks, Harvey
  13. capnharv2
    Piet, It's great to see another person interested in Friendship Sloops. Beside the 17 year "restoration" project on our sloop Amie, I've build one from a kit, finished another that was given to me, and have 2 more kits waiting in the wings. I also have about 5 sets of plans of different Friendship Sloops. If you haven't been there already, you can get more info from www.fss.org. There are also several books out on Friendship Sloops, and the Society is putting together another one that shows the history and current status of all those registered with the FSS. While I recognize that you and your wife are experienced sailors, please be very mindful of the size and amount of effort to handle one of these boats. Ours is 25' on deck (a Pemaquid model) and the mainsail is 310 square feet. We also have no winches, so gybing the gaff main in a blow can be a challenge (I've worn people out people handling the main in a race). They say a Friendship Sloop handles like a big boat-I'd say is handles like a semi with no power steering. All that aside, I wouldn't have anything else. The boat is so stable and the motion so nice-Amie is the perfect boat for us. I look forward to your build log. One day I'd like to make models of the 22', 25' and 31' sloops in 1:64 scale. But I have a few other projects to finish first. . . . Thanks! Harvey
  14. capnharv2
    Jay, This will take you to their website. You'll have to dig around a little to find all their end mills, but they have a huge selection of mills we can use. Click here for Harvey tools double ended corner rounding end mills. Thanks, Harvey
  15. capnharv2
    Jay, I apologize for not reading all your questions (I'm typing left handed, as I had surgery on my right hand Thursday). 2 Flute vs. 4 Flute? I've read 4 flute gives a smoother finish. I've used both and tend to agree. Of course, 4 flute mills are more expensive. Regarding flat vs. round ends, if you're looking for a sharp corner or a long side cutting surface, I'd go with flat. Note that you can get flat end mills with corner radius as small as .01". One last thing I learned the hard way (although I suspect most know this already). If you're milling a slot, take out as much material as you can by plunge milling (like drilling into the material), then start on the end and cut your slot (like a router). I broke 2 of my end mills by trying to brute force my way thru the slot. Also, depending on the material, you will have to learn how much you can take off in each pass. Again, I learned that thru breaking some small bits. Note that as the end mill gets larger (in diameter), the less you have to worry about breaking the bit and the more you run up against the max power of you machine. And keep everything as stiff as possible-no big overhangs of the workpiece from the tool, expose the least tool shank as possible, and lock any axis on your table that you aren't using. Believe me, I have a lot to learn! Thanks, Harvey
  16. capnharv2
    Jay, From my very limited experience . . . From Chuck's blockmaking thread, he recommends Harvey Tools (no relation to me). I've ordered a couple of .04" dia HSS end mills, and I've been very happy with them. They ran about $25.00-$30.00 each. You can't order directly from Harvey Tools, but they will direct you to a local distributor. Regarding HSS vs. Carbide, many places recommend staying with HSS unless you're milling harder materials (I use mine for wood and brass). I haven't tried Carbide yet, but I see no reason to pay more when I'm happy with what I'm using. Hope that helps. Thanks, Harvey
  17. capnharv2
    Brian, They sound more and more like the same kit. I also believe Golden Kits was bought by Constructo. If they are indeed the same kit, I wonder why they changed the advertised scale? From my perspective, it's becoming a moot point. The kit looks kind of like the Enterprise in Howard Chapelle's book, and I had a great time building my first Enterprise 30 years ago. When I get to this second one (hopefully not if) I'll be bashing it anyway. Thanks for the info. Harvey
  18. capnharv2
    Toni, What wood are you using for the pillars? If you're using boxwood (or some other harder to find wood), do you run some samples of other, less rare woods when setting up your duplicator? Beautiful job on the model. I wish I had the time/talent/patience to do as well. Thanks, Harvey
  19. capnharv2
    If you look at the age of many of these fictious models, they were designed and sold before the internet existed and the amount of historical maritime data was available to the masses. So it was easy to sell something that looked like a certain type of ship and spin a yarn without anybody having the resources to challenge the manufacturers. Just a thought. . . Thanks, Harvey
  20. capnharv2
    I got my copy a couple of years ago as a Christmas present from my wife. Unfortunately, she got me the French version (and I don't understand French) and I don't have the heart to tell her I wanted the English version. Still, the pictures are fantastic, and I can understand some of the French. I use it quite often. So I'm happy Harvey
  21. capnharv2
    Thanks Geoff and Jay, I borrowed our group's Byrnes ropewalk because I'm at about that point too. Your posts and comments will help a lot. Harvey
  22. capnharv2
    Michael, Thanks for your comments. I agree we sometimes see how somebody else does it, and say "I can do the same thing" without knowing or seeing how things are set up and what the end goal is. I'm a sucker for doing this from a picture in a book and not understanding the hows and whys behind it, but thinking that's the way it's done I'm reminded of a picture in a book by LC Mason's "Using the small lathe", where he shows a "straightforward setup for turning". Then he says "everything in this picture is wrong" and goes on to explain all the things wrong with the setup. It took me several times to see what he was talking about, but I finally understood. There are many ways to accomplish a task. Some are faster, some give better quality, some may do both, and each person has their own way of interpreting the process. The original point of this thread was that I experienced something unexpected, and, partly due to lack of experience (I may be a retired engineer, but I'm not a machinist) thought that there was something wrong with the tool or something wrong with how I was using the tool. I believe the problem was the latter of the two. On the positive side, nobody got hurt, and I've learned a lot of things about table saws and cutting that are useful now and in the future. And for that, I am grateful. Thanks, Harvey
  23. capnharv2
    Mine too Mark. I thought there may be a concern that the fence had to give way if the workpiece got jammed and cause the blade to fly apart. I want to get a closer look at Jim's saw to see how his fence works. I may be reinventing the wheel here. . . Thanks, Harvey
  24. capnharv2
    Not knowing any better (well actually I do, but I didn't listen) I ordered a couple of blades from Jim. If I can't make them work I know a few people who would take them off my hands I'm not real happy with the accuriser fence. It's okay, but there's a lot of fiddling to get what you want. I may want to think about some way to help it. One question first about table saw fences in general-all fences that I've seen (I haven't looked closely at the Byrnes saw yet) seem to rely on parallel bars at the front and back of the saw for the fence to clamp on. Is there any reason (like safety related) that it can't be more positively locked in position? I'm thinking some type of threaded adjuster that would positively hold the fence in position. Just thinking aloud Thanks, Harvey
  25. capnharv2
    Thanks Per. I'll look for it! Harvey

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