capnharv2

Pete, Looks good! I'm glad you're having a good time on it. I'm tempted to build another one myself. Harvey

Excellent job DeeDee!!!

Hi Rich, I know the feeling. Rubber bands and guide pins are good ways to secure the plank till the glue dries. Micro-Mark and Model Expo sell Planking Screws, which screw into the bulkhead and hold the plank in place. Similar holding devices can be made with spring loaded clothes pins or binder clips. When you put the pin thru the plank, did you drill a pilot hole for it? That can help keep the plank from splitting. Also, you commented that your plank bending gave a near net shape. Are they close enough that just a little pressure (like from a rubber band) would work? What type of glue are you using? One of our club members swears by a combination of CA glue and woodworking glue. He applies wood glue to the areas he wants, and then touches a few critical areas with a spot of CA. The moisture in the wood glue kicks the CA to help give you a quick "stick", and the wood glue will cure to provide a permanent bond. As Augie said, there are several good planing tutorials on the site. Take a look-they can help generate ideas on how to tackle this. Keep us posted, and above all-have fun! That's what it's all about. Thanks, Harvey

Randy, Jud, Thanks for your comments. When I ripped the piece in half and glued it back to back, I thought I was reversing the grain on one piece. (like the 2 center layers you show). That's why I don't understand why it's warped. It's possible that, when I used the recently sawn sides as the outsides of the piece, that they were not flat enough, and I clamped the warp in when I glued it. The sawn sides looked flat, although I could see some saw marks on the faces (the blade is brand new, and I didn't see any burn marks). I didn't surface the outside faces-maybe I should have. . . Harvey

Okay, story time. . . I took my old piece of 1"x2" finished poplar and ripped it down the middle on my saw. Before I did that, I checked to see if the original had any warp in it-it did not. It's also straight grained and clear of knots (a nice looking piece of wood). I glued and clamped the finished edge together using Titebond type 2 glue and let it sit overnight. The piece was still straight. This morning I ripped it down to 1/2"x 1/2", and turned the corners off with the router. I then made up a tool per the Matthias Wandel video that was posted elsewhere here. My finished dowel size is 7/16", so my power drills did not work (they only go to 3/8"). So I ended up using a brace bit to turn the dowel (it worked much better than I thought). The finished dowel looked really nice-until I took a picture of it on the table saw (to contrast the color to see it better. Sure enough, it's warped. It's about 1/16" over 18" length. It's warped right in the middle, so I can't cut it out. I checked the glue line for signs of separation-I had a hard time finding the glue line, but it's solid the entire length of the dowel. By the way, the glue line is down the center of the dowel. I think it's better than the one I have now, and I can line the warp up fore and aft so it's less noticeable. Still, what did I do wrong? Or am I being too anal? On the plus side, the Matthias Wandel dowel turning setup is pretty neat and leaves a nice finish. And the thickness is constant (my wife wanted me to turn in on a lathe, but I doubt I would have gotten as good an end result) Okay, whining done-pass the cheese, please. Thanks, Harvey

Thanks for your help guys. I'm going to glue a couple of pieces of poplar together and mill the mast out of that. The wood looks pretty straight, and it's been around for 10-15 years, so I suspect it's stable. I'll post some pictures of how it turns out. Thanks again, Harvey

I've done some work on my Connie's mainmast, and I've decided to start over on it. It's warped. The dowel was cut too short, and I scarphed a section on to get it the correct length, but there's still about 1/8" warp in the 12" section. When I put the masts in, I can see the misalignment (the other 2 masts are straight). So I think I will start on a new one. Crackers put up a great video on how to turn dowels from straight stock, so I will want to try that. I have 3-4-5 pieces (about 36-48" long) of 1"x 2" poplar that I was given about 10-15 years ago, and I'd like to turn the mast/dowel out of this. Are there some hints on how to select a piece of wood that won't warp after I cut and turn it? Thanks, Harvey

Floyd, That's the plan. The bowsprit is done, but needs blocks, bullseyes, and provisions for the jib boom. I want to get the trestletrees on the lower masts (with the tops located correctly, but not installed), then I can put the lower masts in and start my stays and shrouds for them. Tonight I was correcting mast rake. The foremast is pretty good, the main and mizzen still need a little work. I'm a little stymied with line. I can't find Coats and Clark 50 wt. I've been to Michaels and Jo-Ann fabrics, and they both say "if it's not there we don't carry it"-and it's not there. I have plenty of the 30 wt and have made some 3 strand and 9 strand with it, but I need to find the 50 wt for rigging some of the bullseyes. Will I do a seminar on using the ropewalk? Sure, I can share what I know and what I've learned (and will learn). I don't have near the experience of some folks here, but I'm happy to share what I have learned. But I first need to get the cannon made for Mike Graff's model. I now have the tools, but I have to wait a bit for my back to heal up after surgery (stitches come out next Thursday, and I should wait another week or 2 before I start up the Unimat). Thanks though. Glad you're having a good time at the AC . Harvey

True-but right now building the spars and running the ropewalk is a break from turning cannon (or trying to). But the end mills got here yesterday, so I'll need to switch gears (no pun intended) soon. Harvey

And not get hurt by the one that just broke

Keith, Thanks for stopping by. There are 4 boats that come with the kit. A 36' pinnace and 3 28' whaleboats. The pinnace sits on the grating between the fore and main mast, and the whaleboats are on the aft quarter davits and the transom davits. The pinnace (which is the only one I haven't started yet) is the one that needs to go on before the standing rigging, as it will be harder to mount with rigging in the way. Or, I may display the pinnace alongside the hull, like she's loading or unloading cargo. I might also display one of the whaleboats being lowered from the quarter davits. Or I may display all 4 boats in their stored positions (on deck and in davits). I haven't decided yet. One of many fun ideas when the model gets this far along (similar to what you've done with your Swift). I agree, the rigging really fills in the ship and displays the complexity of handling these large vessels. I've noticed a leap in complexity when the masts and standing rigging go on, and another leap in complexity when the spars and running rigging go on. It makes the entire build process and product very satisfying. Harvey

Oh boy. I didn't realize it's been 4 months since I updated this build log. I guess everybody thought I had given up and was only posting snide comments and bad puns since then Well, as far as Bob Hunt's practicum goes, I've done about as much on the first practicum as I plan for a while. The only things I haven't completed (per his practicum) are the ship's boats and the hammock cranes and netting. The boats make a fine side project (I do want to finish the big launch on the spar deck before I start rigging shrouds). The hammock cranes and netting-well, they are pretty fragile, so I'll leave them off till I get at least some of the rigging in place. So, here's how she looks today: I added steps to the transom: I also decided to make my own cannon carriages out of boxwood As you've noticed, I started the spars. I'm going to finish the lower masts and bowsprit and start the rigging on them. We'll see how it goes. Thanks, Harvey

Thanks Andy. I'll look for that acrylic. I haven't spliced wire rope before, but I've seen the Liverpool splice in Brion Toss' book "The Rigger's Apprentice", and it looks like a lot of work (especially when he says "you've finished it! Now throw it away"). Heck, I still can't do a good eyesplice in 3 strand dacron. I get lost after about the 2nd or 3rd tuck. Harvey

It does look a little low and far away from the wheel to be a comfortable seat for steering. . .

Rusty, That is one sweet looking cross section. Great job! Harvey

Beautiful work Andy. What matte medium are you using to preserve the rigging? Also, do you find that working with line in real life make rigging the model more easily understood (granted, the size line you work with dwarfs the model itself)? I've noticed a difference in my model rigging/comprehension since I learned how to sail and do a lot of the rigging work myself. And don't forget-Life is too short to splice wire rope Harvey

My singing isn't too bad-as long as the radio is loud enough to drown me out

Janos, What do you think the "average" humidity is? Both where you build your models and the place that you displayed them? I grew up in southern Illinois, where the "average" summertime humidity is 70-80 % and the wintertime humidity is 10-15 % (anybody from back there, please correct me). I believe I would have a lot more trouble with rigging going slack back there (along with wood shrinking and breaking). Here in the Pacific Northwest, it seems to be a more constant humidity than back home. The temperature extremes are also less. I live about a mile from a big lake (Lake Washington) and have displayed my models nearby another lake and Puget Sound (when we had access to the Coast Guard Museum), and I've never seen a problem with slack rigging. But then, I don't think I've used all cotton before. We'll see. Thanks, Harvey

Thanks Michael. I hardened some of my line for a day or 2. I'll hang it with weights again and leave it there longer. Depending on my build speed, I may be able to wait 6 months. I was hoping that using cotton would help is some aspects. It sounds like it will. Harvey

Oh Boy Sjors! Now the pressure is on I've had my Aggie waiting in the wings since 1997. But I need to finish my Constitution first. Have fun! I hope to start before you finish! BTW, the NMM has plans for the Ardent Class 64s. They may be worth looking into (if you haven't already). And Deane's book is well worth the read. Thanks, Harvey

Hi Nenad, I'm with Edward and Mark-think very carefully before you throw away 6 months work. In my opinion, taking these strips off and putting them on is not a big enough deal to start over. That is one of the beauties of wood ship models-they are very reworkable (and often are). Thanks, Harvey

I believe the traditional knot on deadeyes (at least I've always used it) is the cow hitch. I know when I've secured the deadeyes on our boat that that knot won't hold worth a darn, and it's not until the deadeye lanyard is seized that the shroud won't slip. Since the shrouds aren't permanently secured until all the standing rigging is attached, I assume that the ratlines will have to wait? Thanks, Harvey

Thanks John. Putting most of the lines on the yards sounds good (that's the way we do it on our real boat). What I wanted to avoid was a complete mast assembly with upper shrouds and stays hanging there while the lower lines are being rigged. Any tall ship that is getting spars put in goes one spar at a time. And I want my model to tell that story while she's being rigged (and displayed when I'm not rigging her). I agree that waiting till everything is in place before final adjustments and trimming is the right way to go. I have had a problem with earlier rigged lines and knots letting go. For example, I may be pulling an upper forestay taut and the temporary knot holding a lower stay becomes loose. Would cotton line help keep that from happening? Thanks again, Harvey

I'll be starting to rig my MS Constitution soon, but I want to do it differently (you could say the hard way). I would like to install the bowsprit and lower masts first, install shrouds and stays, then proceed to the topmasts/jiboom and do the same, and finally the topgallants and flying jiboom. Only after I have the standing rigging done will I start installing yards and running rigging. I believe this process is the way ships are historically rigged, and is documented in Darcy Lever's Young Officers' Sheet Anchor. Most folks recommend building up the entire mast with as much rigging installed as possible, then installing all the rigging at once. It's probably easier, but I want to see the ship as it would have looked while the rigging was being installed. I've thought about installing a set of sheer poles to show the lower masts being put in (fortunately, I didn't think about if for long). One thing I'm concerned about is the potential for slack in previously installed standing rigging when I get to the next set of masts. I plan to use cotton rigging, but I know I've had a problem with slack in a lower shroud/stay when I rig something above it. I used to see it more when I built plastic ship models-it seems they had much more flexible plastic masts. Any thoughts or ideas on how to keep the rigging tight as one progresses? Thanks, Harvey

Mike, I apologize for my rant. I deleted my post because I just looked at the pictures again, and I've completely mis-interpreted them when I made my drawings. Correctly made cannon will be considerably easier to make, and should eliminate several of the problems I've had. I guess I'm proving the adage we had at work-there's never time to do it right, but there's always time to do it over. So (as they say) "Back to the drawing board" Thanks, Harvey