capnharv2
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Thanks Pete. I agree, the well location seems correct. And the Midwest interpretation of the closure doesn't look quite right. Yours looks much better. I'll do some digging on Friendship Sloop fish wells. If I find anything of note I'll put it up here. Thanks, Harvey- 209 replies
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Jeff, A couple of questions. . . -Do you clamp the block in something before you drill? -What size bit is it, and are you using a pin vise or a Dremel or something else? -Have you marked the drill point on the block with something sharp (so the drill has a good starting point)? -How are the blocks being destroyed when you drill them? -Do I ask too many questions??? My very limited experience with drilling something that small and precise, the object needs to be held so it can't move (I'm thinking some kind of clamp with soft jaws), the drill need some type of pilot hole so it won't wander (that's what I suspect is destroying your blocks), a very concentric drill/bit, and a slow but controlled bit feed rate. I've broken a lot of #78-79-80 bits recently because I haven't been able to get a slow and constant feed rate of the bit. I hope that helps, or that somebody else will chime in with some better advice. But walking away from the problem for a while can really help too. Thanks, Harvey
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
capnharv2 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Rails look great Nenad! And I'm glad the bending for the stern rail is coming out well. When I get back to my Flying Cloud, I'll probably take the cap rail off and try again. You work is certainly an inspiration. Thanks, Harvey- 4,151 replies
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Jeff, What are you stuck on? I've been stuck on hammock nettings the last week or so, but I'm working my way thru it. Anything I (or we) can do to help, please holler! Thanks, Harvey
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Looks fantastic Pete! Question about the fish well. Did you find any details in Chappelle on that? the hatches on the Midwest kit don't look quite right, but I don't know what they should look like. Thanks! It's great to see your lobster fleet grow. Harvey
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I love the frames Pete. Have you looked for the actual frame dimensions and spacing?
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Seriously, I think the definition of "small craft" means a a model of a vessel under, say, 40-50 ft LOA. That would cover small working and pleasure boats, usually with one or two masts, rowboats, or powerboats with a small (less than 5-8) crew. There are always exceptions-for example, would my 8 ft long pond yacht be considered a small craft? Probably. Would my 3 inch long model of the Victory be considered a small craft? Probably not. 50 foot pilot boats? Probably could go either way At least that's where I think this is headed. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks, Harvey
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Something not too big?
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Ed, Amazing work as always! Question (maybe you've answered this before)-What is the tool you're using for drilling? It looks a lot handier and managable for those small holes than a Dremel. Thanks again for you build log(s). They (and your books) are always a joy to see. Harvey
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Bill, One word of caution-when I built my POB2, I found the 2 piece planksheers, when assembled on the deck, were about 1/4" too short. You might want to test fit the basswood ones before cutting into the Wenge. Thanks, Harvey
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Hi jcoby, That is one gorgeous build you've got going! For the dolphin striker and jibboom spreaders, I recommend putting 2 small eyebolts together. Insert the end of one eyebolt in the cap and the end of the other eyebolt into the end of the striker/spreader. For the iron bands, I would wrap paper, brass or copper sheet/foil around the bowsprit, then drill holes thru it to attach the bullseyes. Hope that helps. Thanks, Harvey
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Hi Pat, Before I say anything else, Wayne Kempson is (in my opinion) the resident expert of lofting and TurboCad. So if he or any other expereinced TurboCad operators say something contrary to what I say, please ignore my comments. Also note that my comments apply to TC 17, so YMMV. As far as the lines disappearing behind the image, I find it best to make my keel line and perpendiculars much longer than the image. When the image covers them up, I zoom out and click outside the image. That's the best way I've found yet keep the lines to the front. Secondly, are you lofting full size? If not, I recommend it. One of the beauties of a CAD program is that the drawing size is infinite. Lastly, as far as zooming and shrinking the image, have you used the Scale X and Scale Y picks on the lower left? Greater than 1 enlarges, less than 1 shrinks it. If you have the aspect ratio locked, you should only need to change one-just make sure the Scale X and Scale Y stay the same. Again, I'm only a neophyte at Turbocad, so I certainly defer to the knowledgable ones on this forum. Hope that helps. Thanks, Harvey
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No offense taken. I wholeheartedly agree.
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Just a personal preference (on my 1:1 boat). I prefer System 3 epoxy to West System. S3 is a 2:1 mix and West is a 5:1. Try as I might, I almost always get too much hardener in my West System Epoxy. The first time I used System 3, I had only used the 5 min epoxy at a 1:1 mix, and mistakenly mixed the S3 at the same ratio. Almost had a fire in the garage. Then, after using System 3 for a few years, I couldn't find it and used West System at (you guessed it) 2:1. No fire that time, but I was using it to fill some cracks in my mast. Big mistake-5 years later, it was still gooey I think the bottom line is to use the epoxy that works best for you. Thanks, Harvey
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Pete, I saw your initial note of a Lobster Smack regatta, and it reminded me-ever heard of "Handicap Alley?
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Sam, Regarding the pin rails under the poop rail. . . This may not be historically accurate, but I would rig a turning block (or set of turning blocks) on the deck just under the belaying pins. That way, the loads aloft would go to the deck eyebolt, and not try to pull the poop rail off. I've made that mistake on other peoples' boats (and almost pulled pin rails out of the deck ). Again, though, it may not be historically accurate. Just a thought. BTW, she looks great! Thanks, Harvey
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Looks great Geoff! One question-are you serving any of the shrouds? I'm also trying to remember-I think sometimes the first shroud only was served? Thanks, Harvey
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Thanks everybody! I'll try to use it without guilt (or at least with less guilt) Harvey
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I'd call that a pretty good start!
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Looks great! Time to start building Lobster Traps?? Harvey
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Ben, I have had problems with chucking the micro-bits into a drill press. Micro Mark sells a small chuck adapter that will then fit into a Dremel, but I've found that the #75-80 are too small to clamp in the adapter (I ended up wrapping the bits with copper tape to clamp them). Worse, the micro bits have a concentricity problem. I seldom can chuck the small bits into the adapter/Dremel without getting a lot of wobble. I've looked at the slitting of the adapters, and they are part of the problem. Like Toni, I've been getting 1/8" shank micro-bits from Drill Bit City. They have always run true and produce better results. At least, that's what I've seen. YMMV. Thanks, Harvey
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Pete, I just realized you're going to have to be careful with scratchbuilding these small boats. In the last few minutes I've thought of 2 others that I've love to see in 1:24 or 1:48 or 1:64-A Murray Peterson Coasting Schooner and a John Alden Malabar 2. Both are 42' on deck and would make fun little projects (and much less costly and labor intensive than the real thing!) Harvey
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And I'm looking forward to the scratchbuild in a smaller scale. One of my "goals" is to create a fleet of 1:64 or 1:48 Friendship Sloops from the different sets of FS plans I have (I think I have 4 or 5 different ones). Buzzard Bay Boys' Boats are a lot of fun to sail. The only change I've seen people make (to the real ones) is to square off the bottom of the rudder. As designed, the rudder doesn't seem to have enough "bite" and this change seems to help. Thanks, Harvey
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Oops! I forgot the popcorn! Sjors, do you have some? I guess I have to take a seat in the back now Harvey
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Chuck, You beat me to it. Those are the only eyebolts I make/use now. And they look so much better than the ones that come with kits. Thanks, Harvey
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