capnharv2
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Everything posted by capnharv2
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Gil, Good pun on "making the connection with electrical shrink wrap" Harvey -
Pete, I built it many years ago, and had great time with it. It even came out okay . I'll try to get a couple pictures of it in the next couple of days. The only things I changed were the adding some frames along with the bulkheads (since they're visible from the cockpit) and added some reinforcing blocks to attach the chainplates. Have fun! Harvey
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Geoff, That looks really good! I'm about where you are-I should be attaching bobstays in the next couple of days. I'm trying to make all my line using Jim's ropewalk too. I've had a few problems, but it's coming out nice now. The biggest problem I have now is the cats chasing the line when I thread it on the spools Harvey
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I guess I better go find some. . .
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Wes, There are a couple of tutorials on cannon barrels here on the site. I've also seen them turned in a drill press. I just don't seem to get it. Maybe if I mess up another 6 ft of brass it will come to me. . . I have a Unimat 3 lathe and mill. I really like it, and it will take me a long time to learn all the things it can do. I really like how compact it is. However, if I were to start over, with more space and money, I'd probably get a Sherline lathe and mill. They're a little larger and stiffer. The Unimat 3 lathe is okay, but the mill flexes a lot, and the mill doesn't have a fine feed adjustment in the Z-axis (that I can find). Also, the Sherline tools are still being made. They stopped making Unimats about 20 years ago. I made the blocks for my cannon/carronades, but that was before Chuck came out with his tutorial (and subsequent company). I'm going to do all my rigging with Chuck's blocks. Thanks, Harvey
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Wes, I'm trying to learn more about cannon turning on my U3. And, if my experience is indicative of my abilities (learning and all), I'm better off buying them. I've gone thru 6 feet of brass rod, and have 2 or 3 one inch long barrels to show for it. A lot of it is learning and some of it is the tool. But if I were to make cannon for my Constitution, or my Agamemnon, I'd be looking at a lot of frustration. Fortunately, you've got some metal turning experience (I had none). Another option (from a Nautical Research Journal article) is to make a duplicator and turn them out of ebony. The author's point was that turning 40-50-60 barrels from brass can be very time consuming. Another thing to help the carronades look better is to get some good blocks. The tackles are supposed to use 3/32" blocks, but the kit doesn't provide anything smaller than 1/8" blocks-and the kit blocks aren't that great. Chuck Passaro makes some really great 3/32" blocks (and has a thread on how to make them if you're so inclined). Good luck and keep us posted. If you do turn them from brass, it would be nice to see how you approach the task. Thanks, Harvey
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Looks good Alexi! I assume you're not finishing her in the usual Black Hull/White Stripe/Copper bottom? I toyed with the idea of finishing my MS Connie in boxwood and ebony, but I didn't think of it till after I finished planking her with the basswood. Oh well, I have a few others I can do that way. Like several others on the forum, I'm also building my Connie to Bob's practicum. I found it to be a big help. Have fun! Harvey
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Mark, did you bring the beer?
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Hi Bill, Sorry to be late arriving. Welcome to MSW. I think you'll find Pride of Baltimore 2 to be a satisfying model. I built it about 10 years ago, and enjoyed it so much I got another one. It's also a good one to get your feet wet on. I thought about getting the Confederacy, but I enough projects waiting to be built. Besides, for every kit I have and build, it puts a scratchbuilt model that much farther out. Nice collection of tools there. I also like the ship on the big screen! Thanks, Harvey
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Yes, that's the one (Titebond 3 is beige). And Brian, thank you for the information on plank thickness and soaking time. I remember reading when Harold Hahn made wales for his models that they were a build up of boxwood and a thin (like 1 mm) cover piece of ebony. Now if I can just learn to bend the ebony gently. . . Per, you said you would be on this side of the mountains in a couple weeks. Will you be at the November PSSM meeting? Thanks, Harvey
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Brian, How long do you soak the ebony? And is Titebond Green label also known as Titebond 3? We use it for gluing bungs into fastener holes on our boats-it works much better than epoxy. Per, That's probably what I'll use it on when I build my Agamemnon. But I might consider a stained wood instead. I still have a lot of thinking to do on it. Thanks, Harvey
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Brian, I thought that it was hard to shape and almost impossible to bend. I've also heard that it's hard to glue, unless you clean it with acetone right before gluing. Per, I could use it for small thinks like belaying pins. But I believe a have a 1/4" x 3" x 36" piece, and a 2" x 2" x 12" piece, and I hate to think of cutting the big pieces up when I could use them as wales, cap rails, keels, etc. And, yes, I have thought of selling some of it. But I have a lot more common wood that I would rather part with first (like 1" x 6" x 6 ft basswood planks, 2" x 4" x 24" walnut blocks, 1/8" x 4" x 48" cherry and maple, etc). Bill, I'll think about it, but, as I told Per, I have other woods I'd rather part with first. Thanks for the replies gents! Harvey
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When I started building ship models, the "Gold" standard of woods to use were boxwood and ebony. So, for the last 20-30 years, I've picked up odds and ends of both woods. I've got a good stash of boxwood, and a slightly smaller stash of ebony (I don't remember what species they are-I think mainly Macassar and Gabon). We're not talking truckloads of the stuff, but plenty for several models. I was just reading an article on the increasing scarcity of ebony from the wood database that Mark Taylor put up (Thanks!). It got me thinking about my stash of ebony, the problems associated with its use, the toxicity of the dust from it, and while I'm not afraid to use it, I feel guilty using it-especially with the number of options to get the same effect (staining, alternate woods, paint, etc). And I certainly don't plan to buy more. So, my question is-what would you do with a nice stash of ebony? Thanks, Harvey
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Just keep me away from Xylene and MEK. . .
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Thanks everybody. Floyd, I do plan on bringing her to the next meeting. We'll see what I get done in the next 2-3 weeks. Harvey
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Wes, After looking at your build I almost want to start over! You're doing a great job. You're also using Bob's practicum like I did. Use the things that I find useful but not follow it line for line. Thanks, Harvey
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Here's progress to date. . . The bowsprit is done and painted. Bullseyes for the shrouds and stays are installed: The foremast and top are almost done. I need to add a one more crosstree and some chocks and bolsters, then paint it. The mizzen isn't too far behind. I had some problem with the mainmast, but they've been corrected, and I'm starting to add stuff to it. Fore and mainmast rakes are done, mizzen still needs to be fine tuned. . . Lastly, ships boats are all started. One whaleboat has some frames installed, another is in primer, and a third still needs shaping. The pinnace has been glued together but not shaped yet. . . I need to add some additional eyebolts and fittings to the hull before I can start stringing rope. I'm hoping to start that before Christmas. As usual, comments and constructive criticism are appreciated. Thanks, Harvey
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Thank you for the photos! I'm a big fan of the knot too-except I've never been able to tie it. Now, at least, there's hope. One good use is as a temporary seizing. Clove hitches can slip-this won't. I've seen it used on broken tillers to hold them together. Harvey
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Beautiful job Piet! Thanks for posting this build. Gotta love Friendship Sloops! Harvey
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Looks really nice Geoff! I like the ability to slide it in and out of its case. Harvey
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Gaff halyard rigging: one line or two
capnharv2 replied to isali's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Andy, I have to respectfully disagree. Our 25' Friendship Sloop, 16' Herresshoff 12 1/2s and 12' Beetle cats all have separate peak and throat halyards. We had a 17' Concordia Sloop Boat that was gaff rigged and had one combined halyard for peak and throat. I agree that the larger sail probably has separate halyards. I believe most of the current Maine coasting schooners have a gaff and peak halyard-and they take 8-10 people per halyard to raise sail (no winches). I believe part of the answer (on a smaller boat) lies in how much adjustment you want to do with the sail. With a single halyard, I see it hard to scandalize the main or adjust the fullness of the sail-both of which can be done when you have separate halyards. But then, this is only my opinion. That and a quarter might still get you a cup of coffee. Thanks, Harvey -
Wow Ray! That's some inspiring research and craftsmanship. Harvey
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Wes, that's beautiful. It brings back memories when I was at that stage (only mine didn't look nearly as good). I think what Rich is referring to is that some manufacturers have you plank the hull to the false keel, then shape a flat on the planking to attach the exposed keel. The MS Connie has you attach the exposed keel to the false keel then cut the rabbet to accept the planking. Either way works (in my book). Hope that helps. Thanks, Harvey
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Rich, May I suggest this to replace your plank cutter??? Harvey
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Like Augie and cookster, I use the medium. I have both the thick and thin, but never use them. The thin is so hard to control and the thick-nothing wrong with it, but I never use it. And yes, the fumes can get to you. I've been lucky-so far. Hang in there. You're getting there! Harvey
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