-
Posts
1,184 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber
-
I bought a laser machine earlier this year through one of those start-up sites. I knew it would be 6 or 7 months until I'd receive it but as I trust the company and was getting a huge discount I thought it worth the wait. Anyway, it arrived yesterday and after putting it together, then doing a crash course on Youtube on how to use it, I thought I'd try cutting a Cutty Sark deck section from my print plans, just to see how it would compare. Pretty damn good, that's all I can say. I need to finesse my settings a bit but 12 months ago I'd have happily settled for this. This is cut from card, the stuff you use for framing pictures. That in itself has got me thinking! It more than strong enough for modelling, relatively cheap and dead quick to cut. But when I shift back to the Victory I'll use veneer.
- 444 replies
-
- Cutty Sark
- Revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Ian, I guess you're talking about these things; I wondered about these when I took the photos, made a mental note to discuss here when I got to this stage. I absolutely agree that bowlines were obsolete by the time of the Cutty Sark, leastways they're going to be obsolete on this build. (What are bowlines?) Kidding, I'll read Longridge and Underhill next. George, I think I understand that alternative. It's looking unlikely I'll be having any sails though as my experiments in making reefed sails are not turning out as I want, and it's that or no sails.
- 444 replies
-
- Cutty Sark
- Revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
I edge closer and closer to assembling the masts and yards by the month 🙄. All the printing and painting is done, I don't envisage any further design revisions. I now need to add every eyebolt, shackle, block and fixing point to the parts before I start rigging. Drilling holes in situ and on the fly is an absolute no-no on these resin parts, far too much risk of breakage, it all needs to be done in advance. To that end I have been poring over the Revell instructions, both 1974 and 2017, various other instructions (e.g. Airfix, Imai), the Campbell plans, and of course my vast library of photos, so that I have a fair understanding of what gets tied to what, and therefore what eyebolts, blocks and fixing points will be needed. This photo epitomises why I am still left scratching my head and thinking this is still going to be a long old haul (no pun intended). I expect this comes into play when sails are fitted and, in their absence, this is just a 'placeholder', but I wish they wouldn't!
- 444 replies
-
- Cutty Sark
- Revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Marco, these last few photos are very helpful for me to understand what additional fixings I need to put on my masts and yards before I commit to assembly. I omitted all the eyebolts apart from those for the jackstays as the load bearing eyebolts will be better made from wire, and I want to do all the hole drilling before I go any further. The ship itself is of course simply fantastic, and the sailwork is the star of the show. You've heard it before but it's still worth saying again, that never before have I seen any sailwork as good as this. They really do look like cloth and, as I touch on below, that's quite an acheivement. Every so often I make another attempt at forming a 'half-gathered' sail like those shown in the second picture of post #361, but no matter how much I make it wet, EzeTissue won't 'sag' or distort enough for this. Did you find the same? I can drag and shape it as much as I want, but when it's dried, if I flatten it out again it is still perfectly true to it's original cut shape. In other words, it behaves just like paper (unsurprisingly) when you seem to have got it to behave a little bit like cloth. I'm also looking at your furled sail on the mizzen. Maybe I need to try a multi-part approach, once I figure out what the parts should look like before being worked.
- 399 replies
-
- cutty sark
- revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
That looks great, Ian. I bought a laser machine off one of those startup type sites earlier this year, delivery is due this month and I’d expect any future decks of mine to be wood or veneers. You must have a very good library over there.
- 536 replies
-
- Quadrireme
- radio
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Well spotted! That was the very issue I had trouble with. I will do a longer description in time, but briefly, everything except for the weight bearing parts are resin printed. I FDM print the 'stressed' parts and use square section CF as a stiffener. Once cleaned up and painted they look fine. I couldn't do this for the upper topsail crane so for that one I cheat and add a small metal pin that goes through the yard and mast.
- 444 replies
-
- Cutty Sark
- Revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hello all, checking the log, it looks like I've been working on the mast assemblies for around 9 months now (started at post #352), though a fair chunk of that time has gone on other, non-modelling things. No wonder I'm beginning to feel bored, though not yet to the extent that I'd park the model. I ran into difficulties with version 1 of the mast assemblies: some of the more delicate parts proved too fragile and I needed to find better solutions. To cut a long story short that's led to redesigning the way a mast assembly fits together and I'll post on all of that eventually. Meanwhile, redesigning has sometimes led to an incidental improvement, one of which I'll post on today, just because I feel more like writing than thinking! Tops While re-working these to accept a square carbon fibre mast stiffener, rather than round CF rod (hence the square holes in the white frames), I realised I would get cleaner prints and sharper paint lines if I made these as a two-part sub-assembly. Once the parts are painted, the white 'iron frame' sits snugly within the wooden platform and, with a few dots of glue, the whole has fairly good rigidly. Why so many when I only need two? Because these are extremely thin and a small lapse in concentration or even just a bit of bad luck can see them break at any point. I dislike having to stop and make a new item from scratch so I often make extras to begin with. It takes the same time to print 6 as 2, the cost is relatively insignificant and I also tend to do each operation ( cleaning up, painting, glueing) a little better as I work through the collection. It's a shame the spares end up in the spares bin but that's the nature of the beast.
- 444 replies
-
- Cutty Sark
- Revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
This is amazing, I followed the link from the 'At A Glance' thread and would never have guessed this was a card model. You have piqued my interest!
- 45 replies
-
- Earnslaw
- Paper Shipwright
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
That sounds fabulous! Was that a canoe trip or in something more comfy? I’ve wanted to visit that part of the world for ages, but am getting a bit old to be doing things the hard way now.
- 536 replies
-
- Quadrireme
- radio
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Books to learn Fusion 360
Kevin-the-lubber replied to allanyed's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Dave, great model and I’m jealous that you have a Bambu for printing. Speaking for myself, 99% of the learning curve in f360 is around specific methods and when it gets to hulls, the more complex end of f360. For instance, how do you use splines, how do you project lines into thin air, that sort of thing. This is where Kevin Kennedy and Lars are usually so good. I think a voiceover is essential. Back when I was mostly learning, I watched a lot of vids and kept coming back, mostly to the former, because he explains topics very well. Somewhere on YouTube there’s a very long, detailed screencast video of a chap modelling a hull in F360, but no voiceover and it’s almost impossible to understand what he is trying to show sometimes. That’s a great shame because there is definitely a gap for a tutorial around hull creation, when to loft, when to sweep and especially how to fair the basic shape. You’d be doing a great service to humanity - well, a small slice of it if we’re honest - by taking on that task! bw Kevin -
I think you could probably tie those sails to a lamb chop and people would still say "wow". Put them on a build of this quality and they're something else. Bruma, a query - it looks like you've gone for painting the masts white and 'wood (teak?)', is that right? If so, what decided you to go that route? I'm torn: on the one hand, on the real ship they are currently white/red ochre, and it doesn't look as though the red ochre is a primer; whereas Sankey (painting the cutty sark) says they were originally white/black, rather than the white/teak that was often depicted in paintings. I'm looking for a good excuse to go with white/teak, other than just personal preference! I recognise that the current masts are steel all the way (unless they changed to alloy after the fire), so faux teak would be a bit pretentious, but it's an unattractive colour all the same.
- 399 replies
-
- cutty sark
- revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
This is getting exciting! It sounds like it's coming out very similar to the real thing, and I for one will be really keen to see video. In the movies, galleons (and longboats) always look absolutely planted in the water and tear long at speeds that might tempt me to slip on a pair of water-skis. Steven's description brings it all down to earth though. Beside the full-size replica of the longboat in Norway was a large-ish model in a perspex case. Maybe, when you've had enough of it, you could offload it to a museum? You'd think it would be quite interesting to see a galleon actually moving through the water.
- 536 replies
-
- Quadrireme
- radio
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
I'm glad the photos are proving useful, they've certainly been invaluable here. In case any of you are wondering why my log is so relatively quiet, it's because I'm doing a further, much less fragile iteration of the masts and yards and it's more difficult to remain motivated day after day when it's version 3! But I will get there, eventually. Great explanation of the 'T-shirt'! So I wasn't so far out at all! As I'm almost certainly omitting sails (just too hard for me) I think I'll include the 'cutty sark', the star and the main flag, but I completely agree that you have to take what you see at Greenwich with a pinch of salt.
- 399 replies
-
- cutty sark
- revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Thanks Rob, correct nomenclature is not my strong point - but at least I've progressed slightly from calling everything 'thingy's' 🤪
- 444 replies
-
- Cutty Sark
- Revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
The tin canning effect is very realistic, Richard. That is one big ship!
- 445 replies
-
- Union Steamship Company
- Stepcraft 840
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
That is a very well-observed photo! The ship (the real one!) looks nice too. Where did you/does the ship sail?
-
It brings the section to life, they now look like they are in conversation.
- 2,606 replies
-
- heller
- soleil royal
-
(and 9 more)
Tagged with:
-
Now that I can see the workshop items I can see how large this is - it's BIG! What are you going to do with it after it's completely finished and proven? I'm also struck by the slight similarity to a beautiful, full size replica Viking boat I saw last week in Norway - the high prow and stern, gazillions of oars and so on. Just trying to tempt you to look at a variant, after this one 🙂. (https://sagastad.no/en/the-history/the-myklebust-ship/) At least your cat looks like it settles. Ours, which is not even actually ours - it belongs to a neighbour but treats our place as its daycare facility - constantly prowls, howls and demands attention.
- 536 replies
-
- Quadrireme
- radio
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
That's quite a complicated arrangement, isn't it! I was going to just stick some of the following onto the masthead via a centre hole, but this is a timely post as I'm in the middle of a design revision, for reasons I'll cover when I eventually finish. As I'm not including sails and therefore haven't really looked at the sail plan, I hadn't even noticed that Campbell shows a flag, but there it is. Did you download the photos I uploaded to dropbox a while back? If not, looking at them now, I can see a flag on the mainmast but also this strange 't-shirt' shaped metal thing, which I also saw in the display down in the hold. It signifies something but I don't remember what; On the foremast, I see a star shaped metal thing, mounted on a pigstick (now that I know what it's called!); The mizzen just has a metal spike, but there are sheaves present ; and for info, these flags were on a line coming off the gaff. I'm sure someone will know what they say.
- 399 replies
-
- cutty sark
- revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Once the anchor is catted I assume the chains would rest on the deck. Presumably the crew laid them beside the hatch and perhaps tied them off so they didn't move around in heavy seas. On a slightly different note, I was in Haugesund in Norway last week and spotted these beauties in an antiques shop. Unfortunately it was closed and I was only there for a few hours, or I'd have been sorely tempted. The funny thing is that I've only just finished modelling these myself.
- 444 replies
-
- Cutty Sark
- Revell
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Marsalv, I've picked up a signpost to this build and it's fantastic. I haven't yet read through from the beginning but you are making me very keen to purchase a CNC mill & lathe. That said, it's one thing to get the machine to cut the parts, quite another to bring them all together into such a gorgeous model. One question (which may be answered if I read the whole log) - have you got all of the critical design information from the monograph? I've never even seen a monograph but it sounds like something I'd like.
- 589 replies
-
- le gros ventre
- cargo
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
About us
Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
SSL Secured
Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured
NRG Mailing Address
Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917
Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)
Helpful Links
About the NRG
If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.
The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.
The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.