Kevin-the-lubber
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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber
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You’re very welcome, they don’t look too bad either. I wondered afterwards if it might have been better to just have small pilot holes in the drum, and drill them out later.
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This is impressive stuff Kurtis. I’ve never been able to get to grips with Blender for some reason, possibly because it seems to be more art than engineering.
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Yep, slippery slope. It's worth the first month of pain if you foresee yourself using it a lot, otherwise stick with TinkerCAD, which is quite under-rated in my view.
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Ian, have you thought about sticking a notice up in your local hobby shops, for someone willing to resin print bits for you? There must be plenty of people with printers who’d be happy to do it for a nominal charge. I don’t know how big those bits are, they look quite small, and the cost to make 100 should be little different to making one. Most of the ‘cost’ in 3D printing is in developing the object and setting it up to print correctly. While resin is not cheap, if these are as small as I think, it’s only a few dollars worth. Looks like you’re using my old friend Tinkercad? That’s what got me going, 2 or 3 years back…….😀
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After the earlier discussion about the anchors I was wondering how they got brought inboard; there’s the answer.
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You guys are creating the must read, fully illustrated guide to building this kit to a high standard. I know that when I go back to it, this will be the key reference. In fact I’ll most likely be using this for rigging the Cutty too, at least as a sense check.
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Pausing on one model was one thing (Victory), if I paused on this one I doubt I'd ever finish either. As I'm doing a fairly major remake I'll save posting until I'm back where I'd got to.
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3d printing process
Kevin-the-lubber replied to henrythestaffy's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
I think you can attach any kind of file you want. After months of failing to achieve dead straight edges on, for instance, large box-like shapes, I think I’ve finally worked out the (obvious) solution. I tilt the object on two axes, Z And X or Y. This means there is never a straight edge parallel to the build plane. It means more waste as the supports are longer, but it works. -
Ah, oils - I'm glad you said that, another thing I'd have learned the hard way. I have a set of black artist pens of various widths, also some india ink; I have a sample sprayed with gloss, drying as I write, so will see how that goes.
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Wefalck, I think you've highlighted some of the small errors I'm making that gradually add up to an almost but not quite right end result. Because I used maybe 5 or 6 colours, ranging from light sand to very brown, the differentiation is a bit too much. I'm glad you've pointed towards using lighter shades, that confirms that I'm starting to logic it out as that's what I'd decided for the next try. One thing I hadn't yet worked out was blackening the lines, but you may have handed me a solution via the gloss varnish. That wouldn't have occurred to me, I've just used matt all the way. Mine is a 3D printed deck and the lines are 1mm deep x 0.2mm wide grooves. I'm thinking a black-grey straight-from-the-tube acrylic or oil paint might fill them nicely and allow me to wipe off the excess to get crisp lines. I experimented with brushing graphite powder into them but that didn't work that well. I'll experiment some more. The Cutty's deck is/was teak, but very bleached and silvered. While I very much like the teak colour that I've been getting on the cabins with inking, I might skip this on the deck now as it does darken everything. I don't mind spending time on painting - for me it's the most enjoyable part of modelling, so long as it goes well.
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DocRob, Wefalck, you've both given me something to chew on. Here's the paradox - as this is 1:96 I don't really want grain texture, only the effect. Wefalck, I'd looked at yours previously and did something very similar on mine. The result was quite good but quite a bit too dark. I've realised that was me using too many different colours from the vallejo old/new wood kit and when I re-do this, I'll just use 2 or 3 of the lighter colours, mixing to get slight variations in shade. I also finished mine off with some brown ink, partly to accentuate the plank lines but also because it does weird and wonderful things on the surface that hint at grain. Subsequently, this week in fact, I played around with washes to lighten and weather the result. This is where I'm still lacking confidence (aka don't really know what I'm doing). The wash itself 'flattens' the surface and negates the inking. I think it's probably the case that I just need to keep experimenting, including applying different wash shades selectively rather than across the whole deck.
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I sometimes get the email notification but can’t find the post itself, and just assume the poster deleted it. Regarding the natural light photos, it makes it look even more like timber, though I still love the riot of colour in the lit shots.
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- heller
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That makes a lot more sense. The chain in question is a skinny little thing and I couldn’t see that lasting long in a rough sea. Nor the ship for that matter, with the anchors able to move. I hear you Rob and know that’s good advice. For me, it’s finding the balance between, at the end, feeling this was a decent effort or feeling a bit disappointed and not even worth putting it on the windowsill in my workshop. In a perverse way, finding this site is the worst of blessings: once you see what people achieve here it’s all but impossible to just build from the box.
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I have thought about it, quite a lot lately to be honest, but haven't really got the hang of it. If you're reflecting on my build log and the lack of texture on the deck, this is because I start with a dead smooth surface, and that's a problem. If I had a little texture the variations in tone would be working better, especially washes. At the very least the light would pick out highlights and shadows. My washes tend to come out flat i.e. I can get the silvered wood colouring, but once you stop believing your own projection, it really just looks like a flat, thin coat of greyish paint. What would be a good way to add texture right at the start, that will then be used to bring out highlights etc? I almost bought some oils today as I know these sit on the surface more, but I've never used them. I should have mentioned, I currently only use acrylics and some inks, though I did find some watercolour pencils in a drawer today, which might come in handy. But I only want the tiniest bit of texture in terms of thickness. Any suggestions? I was also going to try the opposite, roughing up the surface with some coarse emery cloth or suchlike. Re' stripping, I thought as much.
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That's true enough. For that matter, you'll find thousands of back street blacksmiths dotted all over Asia & Africa. And the skill level and ingenuity can be mind-blowing. I once had a labourer (we were constructing a training centre) present me with the most beautiful pair of handmade shoes.... not for wearing as they were wireframes, without a sketch or last in sight... and they fitted extremely well.
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Apologies if this has been covered ad nauseum elsewhere but can I ask a newbie question - is there a way for me to remove just the wash layer on a large, flat painted plastic object (cutty sark deck), all of which has been painted using vallejo acrylics? Or is it all or nothing? The wash is on top of humbrol matt acrylic varnish.
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I feel another trip to Greenwich coming up. Despite taking a lot of photos, few of them cover the parts that currently puzzle me, including that chain. I've added rear bulwark fairleads on mine, just underneath the rail fairleads.
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Going back to that chain for the anchor, Bruma did a short thread a while back that has an excellent real life photo, search for ‘Cutty sark anchor” or something like that. To my great surprise the chain does go over the rail. I’d have thought this would see it saw through the woodwork in no time at all as, no matter how tight it’s rigged there’s bound to be some movement while out at sea. At the very least I was expecting to see it run through a fairlead in the bulwark and one on the rail. The jib boom guys look excellent to me. I have no idea if they are rigged correctly but it looks convincing!
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I’m kind of in the process of re-grouping, figuring out how far back I ought to go. One of the fundamental mistakes I made was making and painting the decks and cabin roofs at different times, so there is a little bit of variation in colouring, especially as I did a bit of diy colour-mixing along the way. I’d have lived with it but as I do have to remake the quarterdeck assembly, I’m looking at achieving a more uniform colouring. Also the greying of the decks - experimenting with additional washes at the moment.
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June is not going very well on a few logs! I hope that's repairable, there's a lot of rigging there.
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My mother was sent across to England from Ireland at 13 to work as a domestic. I doubt my grandfather even went through school - on my mum's birth certificate, his occupation was given as 'peasant'. Me, I started work at 16; looking at my 17 yr old daughter, I think the world will be lucky to see her start before about 30 🙄. There's progress for you. (I'm being a bit unfair, she's the apple of my eye).
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I’m the wrong person to offer an opinion as you know which direction I’ll head in. All I’ll say is that the ones I made were experimental so no-one is treading on eggshells by criticising them or favouring either of the others.
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I’ve never seen a bow rudder before, will be interested so see it when it’s done. You’re right about the bow line, very elegant.
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- Union Steamship Company
- Stepcraft 840
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