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dragonflyxlii

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Posts posted by dragonflyxlii

  1.   Sewing matts are good for cutting and usually have a grid to measure with. They are available in sewing "notions" stores and fabric centers and craft stores and come in a variety of sizes. Usually green. It seems that many modelers use them since you see them regularly in the logs. They do get brittle and sliced a bit with lots of use. I use for modeling then use the used ones in the garage on the bench .

  2. Hi I just saw your post. I use the clamps, they are absolutely for planking. The side with the spring and brass insert attached to the frames for a plank on frame model and the other end adjusts to hold down the plank above or below as it is glued on.  I too have picked mine up along the way and used to use more extensively. Not much use for anything else I have found. I have developed my own system now for planking which is variable to meet the needs of the particular fit. Sorry I don't have a picture.

    Regards, Dave  

     

  3. HI:  I went through an extensive search for a new shop vacuum around the first of the year and arrived at the Festool as well. I don't have any skin in the game either except for my slight allergy to wood dust. I too have been very happy with my choice and kinda am drawn to the German design of my new vacuum. I attach it to all my bench tools but must add that the slightly different sized hose fitting needs an adapter to fit to the tool hoses.  Good vacuum so far!

  4. Hello:  When I was building kits and I encountered a warped keel, I would assemble the subframe keel and then attach the bulkheads without gluing them. Any rabbit and beveling done first. Then I would put the subframe on the build board with the keel straightened by the boards that center the keel on the build board.  You could also use temporary brackets along the keel to further straighten the keel.  Then I would use small , but accurate 90 degree, blocks or triangular pieces on each bulkhead both sides to square up the bulkhead to the keel. Clamp first. These I would gradually glue to each of the bulkheads to "square them up" using these pieces only to hold the bulkheads. Usually this would do it. If not, then I would use another set of small blocks close to the outside edge, both starboard and port, to align the bulkheads with each other. Steam and heat doesn't usually work well on plywood. As you go, you can usually tell if the keel is getting better aligned. This is one approach.

     

    Regards, Dave

  5. Hi I am scratch building the Eagle right now. It would be good to hear from you as to you progress and maybe I can help. I am building at 1/48 scale and am in the middle of the deck right now. I drafted all of the ribs directly from the three view plans. The is a lot of information on the lake boats and the U.S methods of construction at that time. Still a number of decisions left to the shipwright (  shipmodelers lik you and I) that make it interesting!  Good luck.1600631819_Eagle170.thumb.JPG.9c9b598aacf6a17454b9c84ad6b15f73.JPG  

    Eagle 182.JPG

    Eagle 175.JPG

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