Rick310

I hear you on that!!!! My photos show all the defects, model looks much better in person! Beautiful work! Rick

Really nice job on the lifeboat!!! I’m trying to carve mine. We’ ll see how that turns out! Did the guys for the davits interfere with the run of the main topmast brace? Rick

As always Keith, beautiful work! Still like the idea of a white stripe on the hull where it meets the dark green color of the topsides with the mahogany below! For what it’s worth! Rick

Looking really good George! Good luck with the interviews! Rick

Thanks Jared and George! Rick

Nice job on the Flying Fish figurehead! Why the rails on the forecastle, not specified on the plans and not evident on the China Trade and Buttersworth paintings. Tour model is beautiful! Rick

Keith, what was the thickness of the brass you used for the trail boards? Rick

Glad you’re back Keith, was starting to get a little worried! Cangarda looks magnificent! Rick

After completing the masts and ensuring that everything fit well and was straight (I don’t intend to glue the mast sections together), I moved on to making the jib boom, the 3 Spencer booms and the spanker. All were made per EdT I started with the jib boom, which was made of AYC. The bands were made of copper tube and strips. For most of the bands, this involved heating and expanding the band on a tapered metal rod until it fit on the boom. The bowsprit band which houses the jib boom was formed with approximately 1/16 inch copper strip that was reduced to.010 inch thickness, the tab on the starboard’s side was first bent to shape and soldered. A #75 hole was drilled in the bottom of the band that placed over a pin in the bottom of the bowsprit to secure the band in location. The ends were then wrapped around the bowsprit and the jib boom and the tab was formed and glued on the port side with cyano. This allowed the jib boom to be held securely in place while allowing it to be removed for safety. I decided to make shackles for the jib boom guys with thimbles made from 1/32 inch brass tube that was cut and filled to approximately 1/32 inch thickness. Trying to solder the eyebolt: shackle combo to the bands was difficult and frustrating because I kept soldering the shackles to the eyebolts as well which kept the shackles from moving freely. After multiple attempts and way too much time, I finally managed to get 2 bands made. Not sure I’m going to try that again. The main and fore Spencer booms were originally made from AYC, but were too fragile and kept breaking where I drilled the hole for the in haul/out haul. I ended up making them from boxwood, which is much stronger, although darker in color but hopefully will not be that noticeable. The mizzen Spencer and spanker were made from AYC , as they are much larger booms. Bands were made per the jib boom with shackles in the eyebolts on the spanker (I found a technique that worked consistently when soldering the eyebolts to the band) The pendants for the Spencer booms were made of black thread (.08 for main and fore booms and .012 for the mizzen). All have brass thimbles for the blocks to attach to. I’m not really happy with the knots around the thimbles as they look too bulky to me. The lines are secured to the thimbles with cyano. I may redo these if I find a better way to do it. The spanker was rigged with the foot ropes and topping lifts. The knots in the foot ropes were made per Nic at Bluejacket. Thanks again Nic!!’ All thread for the running rigging ( smaller than .08, which I buy from Syren) was dyed with walnut dye per EdT, then pulled through a bath of very dilute white glue. The yoke on the inboard end of the mizzen spencer was shaped out of 2 pieces of AYC and drilled for 3 brass bolts of .02 inch brass rod. The parral. was made from22ga copper wire. The cleats were made from brass wire and copper strips, soldered and filled to shape. The in haul/ out haul was also rigged on he spanker and secured on the cleats.

Great!! Rick

Truly incredible!! Rick

Model is really looking great , George!. Great suggestions by Tim. By the time you have finished, I doubt the seam will be very noticeable. Rick

Looking really good! Rick

Glad to hear that you are back on track! Rick

George, good luck with your interview! Have a safe trip! Rick

Rob, that’s a great idea! arick

Get well soon Keith! Careful with the ice. Rick

Very nice! Rick

Simply amazing!! Rick

Really looks good! Rick

Thanks John! Rick

Really nice looking model! The sail looks great! what color paint did you use? Rick

George, Jared, Thanks for your responses! Looking ahead, it looked to me that the given sizes looked really large on the model. On both of your builds, the rigging looks really good! Therefore I’ll follow the plans, adjusting where it looks appropriate! Rick

George, I understand how the sizes work for the standing rigging, what I was asking was how many different sizes of rigging line did you use and how closely did they approximate the sizes given on the plans for the FF at 1 to 96 inch scale? Rick

George, an unrelated question. How did you determine what size rigging line for the standing rigging to use? When I check line close to the given sizes given on the plans, it looks awfully big. Thanks, Rick