Rick310

Feel better George! Looks like a nice trip! Rick

WOW. Wonderful work!! Rick

Nice job! Rick

Thanks George! I’m loving retirement and having the time to work on the Fish! Rick

Thanks Jared! Loving retirement! Rick

Well, September was quite a month. Finally retired after 40 years as an Endodontist (root canal specialist) and 45 years as a dentist! The admiral and I celebrated by taking a Viking Meditation cruise in between clearing out the office and our daughter’s wedding in Ohio. The fore and main tops still needed to be painted, planked and fitted out. Both the main and fore topmast were made prior to the cross trees to insure accurate spacing. The topgallant masts were also made as described by EdT in the YA books. Finally got the tops planked and fitted out. The topgallant tops were made same as the lower tops. The spreaders are 1/32 inches brass. I found it extremely difficult to cut .030 inches thick brass on the table saw and ended up filling them to a rough shape. Fortunately after painting, the inconsistencies are not very noticeable. I made the mistake of using copper for the cross bar. This was much too soft and didn’t hold the shape of the spreaders. I ended up desoldering them and replaced them with 24 gauge brass wire that I filled flat on 2 opposing sides. This worked great and was easy to do and I will use brass wire again if I ever need to make spreaders in the future. Both sets of caps were made and banded with thin ,005 thick brass strips. Finally, items such as bolsters, fid plates chapping battens, blocks and sheaves were added. I used 26 gauge copper wire for the futtock shrouds which were glued to the futtock band with cyano. Shackles were made with 26 gauge copper wire. Eyebolts for the shackles were made with either 26or 28 gauge copper wire depending on the location. I’m trying to avoid using 28 gauge copper wire as I have had problems with it breaking, especially when it is manipulated. The eyebolts, once twisted up seem strong enough. Shackles were made per EdT, at approximately 1/16 inche . All eyebolts that have lines attached, have shackles. Finally, the ball shaped trucks were turned on the lathe, painted gold and I will use either straight pins or brass rod for the spires. I think this completes the masts. I added some of the rigging lines such as the toping lifts and mizzen course brace lines at this time as they will be difficult to access later.

Very nice! Rick

Beautiful!! Rick

Well done!!! The way nd is in sight! Rick

Really well done George!! Great job on the research! Rixk

Those wheels are going to look great! Rick

Very nice!! Rick

Beautiful work!! Rick

Keith, Keith, did you once suggest painting a white stripe and leaving the rest of the hull mahogany? Rick

Beautiful! Rick

Just discovered this blog, beautiful work!! Rick

When I cut brass sheet on the table saw, I reverse the he blade which works well. The hull has is a thing of beauty!! Rick

Beautiful Keith! My granddaughter wants to put “people” on the Flying Fish! I need to find some figures for her to paint, we both agreed she should paint them at her house!! Rick

Well done! Rick

Just amazing!! Rick

Nice recovery on the lift lines! Your model is coming along real well! Tick

Rob, keep the model safe and enjoy this time with your family! Our daughter and her family, which included our 2 year granddaughter stayed with us for a year and a half ( only supposed to be 6 months, yea, right!), We were still going back and forth between Cleveland and Maine at the time, but when we were here in Maine, having that time with our granddaughter was wonderful and we have a very special relationship with her now! So, enjoy!! Rick

Really very nice George!! Rick

Beautiful hull Rob, seems to have quite the narrow beam. Wonder how stable she was in rough weather? Rick

She’s going to be beautiful Rob!! Rick