Veszett Roka

Looks like the frames fit very well.

Welcome here, fellow sailor I love your Dragon, bring back some great memory when only soling and dragon were the match race participants.

16 hours ago, Ras Ambrioso said:

I have a question for the forum. This model is going to be wood planked over bulkheads. But the ship was iron and I would like to hear from you regarding how to make planked wood look like metal. I have seen a few ideas such as copper or aluminum foil and cannot visualize a smooth finish. My thinking was something in the line of papier-maché ; using tissue paper and airplane model dope. Other modelers I have seen covered the model with a ladies hose fabric , epoxied it over and sanded. 

Your comments and/or ideas will be most appreciated.

 

Construction continues on Amapá. I am currently cutting the frames. I will post pictures shortly.

 

Thanks for looking.

A good friend of mine collected dozens of plastic (styrene) boxes of margarine. He cut them into plank-like pieces and glued to the wooden hull with PVA, pinched the plastic where the rivets should have been. The plastic had 'matte' finish and it was thin enough to bend easily. I don't know how the curves of Amapá can cover with this method.

Szia Attila,

it is coming along very nicely. How do you plan to display the sails, on full tack or furled?

Wow, and a 424 type steam locomotive at the background?

I believe this will help you, if the kits are almost identical.

Cutty Sark 1-220 Revell 1987.pdf

12 hours ago, yvesvidal said:

 

Veszett,

 

I do not believe you can easily print stanchions for multiple reasons: 

 

1-You have to design them as they are not provided in the kit. So, you need to go in Sketchup or Blender and create a stanchion model

2-Printing a small cylindrical shape is delicate and does not work very well, if you do not use support. 

3-The resiliency and solidity of the printed PLA is way too fragile and brittle for such small stanchions.

 

That is why I ordered some brass stanchions and I am waiting for them.

 

I am not planning to weather the Corvette. I really suck at weathering. Instead, I will be presenting a freshly painted and renovated ship.

Thank you for the compliments about the wooden deck. I like it a lot, too. It brings a nice contrast to this mountain of plastic/PLA.

 

Yves

Thanks Yves,

i think the point -3- is the most important and the showstopper one. For -1- design, it is easy: a rod with 2 globes. For -2- if you print a couple of them  near to each other, like trees in the forest, they will support themselves. But yes, cannot work out the fragile material.

I have no any experience with 3D printing, so have no clue how rigid is the final product.

Well, if you check out my Pamir in the 'At a glance' topic, you'll se mine is mint too. I did weathering on my old models (especially the warships), but since i built the Vasa without weathering for obvious reasons, i fell in love with the clean look.

Yves,

just out for interest, why aren't you simply print the stanchions? Also, will you weather the Snowberry? This is really impressive right now, I personally like a lot the wooden deck color on the foredeck. Great work.

2 hours ago, mtaylor said:

If you think the adjustment screws are "moving" from vibration, next time you get them locked in after adjusting the table, brush a bit of fingernail polish on the screw/thread joint.  If it moves,, the polish will be cracked.

Also nail polish is good for secure screws from movement. Back in old times I've secured tape recorder's head azimuth adjusting screws with red nail polish.

Egilman, i disagree. The laser cutters and 3D printers are just new tools. Computers are just blind and dumb devices without any brain, they're just helping us to find new ways to creativity. Think of that 3D printing allows you and other fellow modelers to cast more detailed tiny pieces (or even giant hulls) with incomparable details. The difference is HOW we are using them. You can print whole ships or small portions, the approach is the difference. And i can live both approach, every modelers has to find his/her favorite way.

8 hours ago, Ras Ambrioso said:

Roka, I agree but I am too far behind to catch up. It’s like learning a new language at our age and add to it a short memory and you got me. 

What short memory? I forgot the thread, need to re-read to remember
Anyway, and more seriously - i got you. However, i believe that time is the matter only: a younger could learn it faster, you and me can learn it slower, with more practice and maybe a lot of trial and error. I did try learn new technologies many times in my life, and succeeded - sometimes age and experience (especially the logical and analytical approach, which comes from the real life experience, lets say age) is a great advantage.

Cheers

Roka

8 hours ago, Ras Ambrioso said:

Egilman, I feel the same as you regarding the future of modeling but I am an old man that just crossed from split to smart phones recently. I hope that the younger generation provide us with the parts resulted from 3D printing.

Never too old to learn something new. You can decide later to live with it or leave it, can't you? Age starts when you thinks you're old

9 hours ago, Bill97 said:

Hubac I was looking at that. Is it OK to glue them onto the hull in advance of attaching parts 356 and 357?  I was not planning on adding 356 and 357 until after I assemble the hull and decks together. The instructions say to glue to the hull and to 356 or 357 at same time. Will it make a difference if I glue the hawser entry hole pieces on in advance of the half cutwater?

 

Bill,

i'd paint the hawse holes and the bow section 356-357 first, then glue them to final position. Minor putty might need there (especially between the hull and bow) but it might filled by unthinned black paint too. As those are not part of the bee lines, i don't see reason to glue before the paint.

11 hours ago, Bill97 said:

Exactly Hubac!  One more to the big 7 0!

 

 

 

Never mind Bill, call yourself Cool-Man-of-69 and you'll be very popular

Congrats for you and Hubac too!

Hi Winnie,

i'm following your project with interest. I have built (well before the 1997 film) the Academy 1:350 as a technical demonstrator for absolute beginners, what you can achieve with no tools other than a knife and some brushes. Wasn't a pleasant build though, but the result is not at bad as i think.
So i'm really curious about this huge kit, what are the differences and similarities, what changed in the past 30+ years.

A new project Yves, i'm in the crowd!

Hi Fuji,

you may want to add the iconic rotating storm-window onto the middle window of the bridge?

cheers,

Miki

5 hours ago, Bill97 said:

 Don’t know if price is a good bench mark or brand name. 

The price is good mark, but not sure sign. Expensive brands have small tricks: As Hubac said above, longer handles, nickel sockets for hair (the ferrule) or non/sticking finish, and especially good balance. Balance is important for fine work (just like airbrush) and best handling - personally i like the lighter bristle and heavier handles.

But cheaper brushes could perform the same like the 20$ stick. Go to the local hobby shop and try for the most handsome one - if it will perform less than expected, you can try another, but i'm pretty sure you'll choose the good one and will get a very fine brush.

I'm painting my models entirely by brush. Simply i love it. for me the most interesting is the softness of the brush. Softer brush for finest details. My favourite is D'Artigny, but any of fine brush will be good.

My smallest brush is 00, this is ~1mm wide and it is good for miniature details. Also i have a flat cut 2 size, this is sharp enough for almost all task, however painting for the Trumpeter 1:200 Titanic would be a painful job with it :)

Also the thinning. Thinner paint is easier to paint, i'm using mainly Humbrol enamels with artistic thinner (terpentin).

Pity, i have a tiny 1:720 Eskimo only (came with the Revell Ark Royal kit https://www.revell.de/produkte/modellbau/schiffe/militaer-schiffe/hms-ark-royal-tribal-class-des.html ) but that one is pathetic. Forgive me, i was a kid when built.

What threads are you using for rigging? Is this an elastic one?

Never thought, they fixed the boats with giant rubber bands?

Seriously, wonderful ship, and it demonstrates how nuances and small details could bring life to a model ship. And yeah, a talented modeler is mandatory. Congratulations Greg, and now i'm started following your excellent build.

20 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

 

I'll be popping down to Portsmouth soon for a proper photo session, as it's only an hour or so away. If anyone reading has been there recently, do you know if it's possible to get a good, square on sight line of the stern from across the quay? 

 

Hi Kevin,

When i was there in the last millenium, it was possible from a car park and with a good teleobjective lens (i have a 200mm telezoom). I marked the spot by red. Another picture was taken on the blue spot, if the first one is too far or closed from public, i hope that one will be open near the Mary Rose museum.

Another "agree" from me. As a retired sailor (albeit on an olympic race class) i can say that the ships are living. The owners and crew continously trying to modify their lady to get better handling, for more convenient working, for beauty, and not last: pride! We did it too.

If you can pinpoint an exact time, the model can be accurate. If you cannot, then everything permitted and only your eyes are the judges. IF you enjoy the model, then thats a bigest success no doubt.

13 hours ago, Bill Hudson said:

 

 

Hi Bill,

if you allow me a hint: paint the skylight windows light grey. Usually they were opal glass, however no guarantee for all. At least the two ship has opal glas covers, as i see them on Peking and same on Balclutha:

https://www.loc.gov/resource/hhh.ca1493.sheet/?sp=62

This will be a very good looking model anyways.

Cheers,

Miki

18 hours ago, Bill Hudson said:

He is happy to see me finishing it. Today is his 61st birthday but it will not be done in time. Maybe his 62nd.  I will be 90 by then if I make it that far.

Happy birthday to him! I'm happy to see you finishing her too