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Posts posted by Veszett Roka
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6 hours ago, Spooky spoon said:
By some miracle I managed to work the deck off with my knife without damaging anything. I used lots of glue to secure the guns, and I'll let the glue cure overnight before I reattach the deck. I am very pleased.
Thats more skill than miracle. As Louie-Steven said, nice save.
- king derelict, Canute, Spooky spoon and 1 other
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3 hours ago, Baker said:
Such an old-fashioned seat of ease would have been much cheaper 😉
How would you install the upwards flushing with sea water?
- mtaylor, flying_dutchman2 and Baker
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Surely i'd dismantle the deck with a thin scalpel, just a little. I think the guns were glued themselves just below the opening, but a long bamboo stick can help tickling them out. I'd assume the glue is not too firm, since no pressure applied during the contact. I believe repairing the paint is easier than fabricate a new gun position.
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19 hours ago, ccoyle said:
I have to admit that from a stand-off distance, it's looking pretty awesome.
Nah. It's f..kin awesome in any distance.
- Old Collingwood, mtaylor, amateur and 3 others
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Welcome Sam. You might consider to go ta Amsterdam, relatively close to you and easy transportation. Scheepvaartmuseum is a must to see there, featuring many excellent models there.
Also, i've been in Lannan Model Ship Gallery in Boston where i saw (actually touch too) any of biggest model in my life. The owner Larry Lannan is a very friendly gentleman.
- Keith Black, Canute and mtaylor
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Hi Bill,
Although the wheel is good in this form, you might try to solder a blob at the end of the copper wire. But before try this, you must remove the wire out, because the soldering heat will melt out the wheel.
Other thing i can think of the 'magic sculpt' epoxy putty, easy and cheap to order. But after all, i'd leave the wheel as is now.
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13 hours ago, Valeriy V said:
Yes, I can do the simplest electroplating on my own at home.
Back to the searchlights. Aren't they painted on the real ship? I think everything on board exposed to salt sprays must be protected from corrosion any way. Well, nickel plating is good for it, but the searchlights i saw on other ships (actual museum ships) were all painted.
I've found this color photo, most probably a colorized one, so more fantasy than reality. This shows the searchlights on lower position as black (or gray?) and on mast mounded ones as ochre (possibly brass?)
- popeye the sailor, mtaylor and druxey
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1 hour ago, Valeriy V said:
But it is better to talk about politics in other forums. We're here to build ship models.
Agree 120%. I was followed an other, russian modeling forum. I thought that the modelers are smarter than politicians. Well, on that forum the vehicles section flooded with Z trucks, and the comments are cheers the occupants, 'our heroes' and so forth.
To be honest, i found it disgusting, and i'm not a member anymore. Also, i have to tell you that in the shipmodels section no any politics occur.- Wintergreen, lmagna, mtaylor and 4 others
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Aahah, a BeoCenter 2300 You're a man! Listening it must be a pleasure when modeling.
- druxey, Canute, popeye the sailor and 6 others
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13 hours ago, Valeriy V said:
Privet Veszett Roka!
Yes, a simulated arc mechanism will be shown.
That gorgeous. Will be a challenging task in this scale, but knowing your works; not for you.
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1 hour ago, Bill Hudson said:
Hi Bill,
I believe Marie C was a "general" ship of era and any ship's rigging would fit for her too, with more or less accuracy. I'd use respective parts of any barque, of course for 2 masts brigantine and omit the surplus masts.
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12 hours ago, Valeriy V said:
According to the classification adopted in the Russian Imperial Navy and the Soviet Navy, this is a heavy combat searchlight.
It is designed for:
- intelligence and signaling
- illumination of the object when shooting
- target designation and blindingThanks Valeriy
Thats explain the dual purpose. I'd be curious how they blind the target, but rather talk of the topic beside a (couple of) beer in a tavern, not in Ras' thread.
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4 hours ago, Valeriy V said:
Did they use the searchlight for signalling too? Or reverse, did they use the signalling reflector as searchlight? This one looks too big for signalling, but the target scope and morse shutter handle suggest the opposite. Interesting!
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On 3/27/2022 at 5:47 PM, reklein said:
That is just nuts. I'm sure someone has found a use for such tiny objects too. Maybe in the electronic industries for printed circuitry eh?
Unlikely. As an electronics engineer, i can tell they are way ahead of this size. Chip technology uses photo etching and/or metal steaming-vaporising to build the circuits. They are really in nanometer scale. Nowadays a semiconductor in a chip is 5 nm wide, and now trying to reach 2 nm, but due technical difficulties (not the size, but the intereference between neighboring transistors: electrons can travel between them) those chips are not yet reliable.
I bet diagnostic and precision instruments industry who can use this level of accuracy in printing. -
Hi Mike,
please be aware, the wavefronts must be straight even on light sea:
- lmagna, mtaylor, Old Collingwood and 3 others
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10 hours ago, Dearborn said:
Quick question about scale. (I'm real bad at math - it ain't my best friend here)
working with the scale of my model 1:78 - is that 1 inch to every 78 inches, or 1 foot to every 78 feet, or is that the same?
Hi John,
thats the same, and you're correct. If you measure an inch on the model, thats 78 inches on the real thing. Or, other words: a foot long model would be a 78 feet long boat in the reality. If you have a Bavaria 35 yacht which is exactly 35 feet long, its model will be 35/78=0.448 feet, so 5.378 inches in 1:78 scale.
If someone can give you the exact plate sizes, just divide them by 78 and you will get the scale size.
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Very impressive Bill. Your Vic made me to want another one for myself, but my Pamir is stalled due other projects and i will finish her before start any other.
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18 hours ago, ccoyle said:
Yes, sort of. In the screen capture below you can see that it's actually the lookout's binoculars that are held by the frame (which is slightly different in this image from the type provided in the kit). The lookout uses his hands on the frame to adjust elevation. The most commonly used US naval binoculars were 7x50s that weighed 2.7 lbs, so using one's hands to hold them at eye level for long periods would obviously be very fatiguing.
Those brackets purpose primarily the direction and elevation measurement. On the picture, you can see a bearing scale ahead of the crew, and on his left side you can see the elevation scale. With those scales the watchmen can give precise direction of incoming threats. Their binoculars were equipped with a very basic rangefinder in the right eyesight.
HMS Victory by Bill97 - FINISHED - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
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Really? I'd love it, because i still use my prehistoric Nikon F-501, and love it: