Egilman

Very Nice....

Well done...

Hey Brother,

Tank Tracks? Painting.... A long sinuous discussion track...

First off, what you paint them depends... Yes it depends on when in the tanks life you want to represent... A new on the ramp tank, a recently issued tank, (Baker gave you a GREAT shot of a recently issued tank, which means original manufacturers tracks) or an old road or battle worn veteran tank... They all look different..

A new tank on the delivery ramp? Same color as the tank with bare metal cleat bottoms....

A new issued tank just out on manuevers? As I said, Baker gave you an exemplar photo... Perfect, the sprocket ends show the same color as the tank, the track bodies have picked up a coating of dust and the Cleats have almost worn off the initial paint coat on their bottoms showing plain steel.... Perfect for a well maintained or newly issued tank... A note: Tank tracks wear out quickly... One of the major supply issues with tanks is not only fuel and ammo, but replacement tracks... Especially in WWII, all metal tracks were painted in their tanks base color... For a British tank would be British Army Green...

A battle worn tank? I would start by black basing the track overall then using dry brushing and washes bring out the rust browns and dirt browns remembering to leave patches of the green showing, for a tank that has really seen the muck then you can go the mucky dirty look with hard basing some kind of medium on the track to show the lumps then the browns and greys to represent the colors of muck...

the world of track painting is just as varied as WWII camuflage, get a few decent color pics and experiment until you gat the look you like...

Backer's pic of the late war newly deployed Comet is priceless in this regard...

Personally I would go with it....

EG

3 hours ago, AJohnson said:

.....why I added them, WH364 (85 Squadron) did have them......

Well they tested them in an F8, that's why I said generally... which is true.. But as always, there are exceptions to general rules...

Elmer

3 hours ago, AJohnson said:

I'm not 100% sure, somewhere in the back of my mind I recall reading they were some kind of visual aid; hence the yellow colour, but not sure why? 

Certainly not wing fences for reducing turbulence and I don't think anything to do with communication(radio.) My go to on MSW is @Egilman who is the font of all knowledge for things with wings! 😁

ARI 5849 or Rebecca Mk.7.  (also known as TANCAN) you will find them on Meteors F13 & 14's late in their lives... I believe it was a radar homing device of some type....

They were tested in a Meteor Mk.8 in 1953....

https://apps.dtic.mil/sti/tr/pdf/AD0020257.pdf

Note the transmitting antenna on the bottom of the fuselage as well.. You will also see these on Vampire T11's as well... 

EG

Also note: F8's generally didn't carry them....

On 3/23/2025 at 12:05 PM, Javlin said:

I may of used a different AB  on the first coats now you mention it that had a higher volume?

Future/Pledge also needs a wet coat brother, on everything/place your going to put it...  So plan on complete coverage and do your setup accordingly... It dries very thin so the only real complication is handling run off... (thinned wet coats tend to run) What I do is keep a pile of absorbent material next to where I'm clear coating and when the future runs enough to start collecting on the low spot, touch it to the absorbent material to wick off the excess... 

You only want the droplet that forms to touch the wick, do not allow the surface to touch otherwise you will have a touch up to do...

Definitely needs a wet coat to work properly...

EG

Modular layouts have been around for about 70 years, and yes it is the way to go when building larger layouts...

And OSB, (oriented strand board) makes a great foundation for a layout... Doesn't have to be perfect and is almost as strong as plywood... (besides being about a third the cost of good plywood)

Nice progress, watching with interest...

EG

42 minutes ago, Cathead said:

I'm definitely not sure where the farmers' loading point was on this structure, given the photographic evidence, but I'm not too worried about it as I'm following what I can see pretty closely and the most important detail is how the grain gets into the boxcars (and that's clear).

Usually they have a platform that allow the grain to be shoveled off the wagons into a hopper that gravity feeds the elevator... The elevator, (think bucket chain hoist) lifts the grain into the top of the silo which is gravity fed into the hopper cars when loading the train... The doors, (usually two) were there for elevator chain replacement, these elevators were used continuously during harvest season 24/7... The chain lifts would wear out in a single season in an area of large farms...  There was equipment in the machinery room to effect the swapping of the lift chains, and it could be done in two days... They would actually use grain loaded in the buckets to balance the weight so it was a simple low tech hand operation to change them... Otherwise, the doors remained closed at all times.... This is why you don't see them open in period pics... (usually taken during harvest season when the elevator is in operation)

EG

That is one CLEAN set of wheels....

3 hours ago, wefalck said:

Actually, nothing was welded at that time. Welding in sheet-metal construction was not common until after WW2.

 

Contrary to what I said earlier, I think the boiler-cladding was probably screwed on in some way. It had to be removed without becoming damaged during the in-depth boiler revisions that had to take place every few years.

They were flush riveted on the boiler plates, the bands reinforced & covered the riveting.... They were also built during the end of WWI thru approximately 1928 in several variations.... There is one still in operation today...

Plate arc-welding as a manufacturing process didn't come into use until 1932, and even at that time was limited to the shipyards building warships... It's became widespread during WWII...

I'm sure they look stunning brother, but, you can't really see it against a diffuse black background...

The wheel black just blends into the background....

1 hour ago, DocRob said:

Unfortunately, the windows have some scratches and the acetate strips are not very even, but I have to live with that.

You know, they lived with it on the real car... The door windows were plexi on the real car and the parts for the slider were as well just glued together... The rivets were for reinforcement...

A few minor scratches adds to the authenticity...

This is my opinion of course, but they are there on the real thing... Absolute fact... So, nothing to be sad about, an inadvertent detail added by accident, but very very realistic... (especially since you have to be on top of it to see them)

Perfection I say...

EG

You know, I've been debating whether I should mention this or not...

The idea is to scale down the car, NOT scale up the lumber it's sitting on...

Where on god's green earth you obtained in scale metal flake blue paint? They don't make such an animal... So you see my point....

So please stop scaling up the wood... {chuckle} It confuses us....

EG

PS: very nicely done Brother... VERY VERY NICELY DONE...

Yeah he's got it right for the cockpit portion only, somewhere between the cockpit and tail empennage, the cable will cross within the rear fuselage giving the proper direction to the elevator...

3 hours ago, CDW said:

Excellent project and will love to follow along.

EG

You have piqued my interest with the Bambu printer. Will definitely be looking that up. I gave my older printers away.

The X1C and it's clones are a tool... fire and forget, load your file and print right out of the box... They are so good that both Anycubic and Prusa cloned it... It's the future of FDM... Resin still has it's place, but for some things FDM is now the turn to.......

This is an excellent project YES, and I don't want to take it off course, if you want to discuss it, hit me up with a PN brother... Gladly share what I know...

EG

3 hours ago, thibaultron said:

I don't think 3D filament printers could give you the smooth surfaced parts you want, and have much courser print abilities.

Ron, Brother,

FDM printing has come a long way in the last few years... My X1C will produce parts that are just as smooth as most Resin printers... I suspect the Clones by Anycubic and Prusa will as well...

I've actually gotten bead lines from the X1C at .007" off the build plate...  Structural parts like he's proposing are no longer the private purview of SLA printers, they can be readily printed on a filament printer....

That's at 1/72 scale from a Bambu labs X1C.... That part in the upper right corner of the pic is the cowling section of the nose part for a '77 Pontiac Freeway Enforcer (Buford T Justice's car) printed off the X1C at 1/25th scale in ABS... Resin isn't the only option for fine details anymore...

3 hours ago, Ferrus Manus said:

Roden oh so generously provided me with decals for the control panel- decals that I'm unable to apply without sanding down the raised surface detail. I could probably do a better job myself by painting it. 

I love it when manufacturers think they are doing a good job when they take the time to engineer an instrument panel that looks decent, then provide a single cover decal to put over a three or four level surface... Never gonna happen without cutting up the decal, and this plane had a grey interior with black faced instruments which will force you to cut up the decal to get it to look right... (or even attempt it)

Roden isn't the only one to do this... And I usually chuck the decal and go straight to paint... I don't know if there is any aftermarket instrument panels for this model or aircraft, probably not given the obscurity of the subject... So I would agree with going straight to paint, the panel itself looks great, a fine piece of molding....

EG

On 1/31/2025 at 8:29 AM, popeye the sailor said:

hey there everyone!  I'm finally back to the point where I can get back to work    it's been a crazy hiatus

Hey Dennis!! GOOD to see ya back!!! And with another great build as well...  WE missed ya! Happy to see that you made it through the travails...

9 hours ago, Dave_E said:

I’m late. 🥤🍿 Man you post a lot of photos in a short amount of time! 👍😀

The boy can build can't he..... {giggle}

13 hours ago, Ferrus Manus said:

Thank you for the information regarding the reason for the engine's disgusting appearance.

Oh my pleasure, it is what we are here for....

EG

The Continental IO-360, has a steel crankcase, and steel sleeved aluminum finned Cylinders and Heads...

The yellowish finish on the engine is the anodizing used to preserve and protect the parts from corrosion... and as you can see it doesn't last forever...

Here is a link to the Maintenance and Overhaul manual on this engine... (scribd link)

Looking good will be following...

3 hours ago, Javlin said:

What was the purpose of the sand?I have never used a lathe and have thought maybe one day.🤨

Hold down weight and vibration damping...

16 hours ago, thibaultron said:

I almost forgot, AHM offered two 1/48th scale kits, one of the locomotive driven by Casey Johns on that fateful night, I think it was a 4-6-0 Ten Wheeler, and one of the Indiana Harbor Belt 0-8-0 three cylinder switcher. They offered unpowered display kits, and power chassis kits to convert them into operating models, for 2 rail O Gauge track. I have two of the 0-8-0 kits, and a partial built kit that has the power chassis.

Here's the Indiana Harbor Belt "O" scale (1/48 scale) 0-8-0 for sale...

And,

Casey Jones AHM O Scale Cannon Ball Express Locomotive Kit 4-6-0 for sale... (27 watchers on it, they don't last long)

Both are reasonably priced....

EG

2 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

And wow, nice stash of MFH kits!!  I bought the 1/12 Corvette C.1 as well.  Hard to find a nicer looking car in my opinion.  I also have the Tyrrell P34 kit - got that one for under retail off a FB group.

Me, I'm lusting after the Ferrari 330p4 or 412p both were upgraded 330p3's the only difference was the 330p4 had a fuel injected engine rather than carbs and the 412p was the North American Team version, otherwise identical...

On 1/5/2025 at 4:22 AM, Canute said:

Yes, "Pips" Priller. He was one of the few Luftwaffe aces to attack the Normandy beaches. He was immortalized in the "Longest Day"" movie. This was his mount from the Battle of Britain. I did get to meet Adolf Galland at a dining-in we had a Bitburg. Galland was our after dinner speaker. He was some muckety muck in the West German Luftwaffe in the 1970s.

3 hours ago, Javlin said:

So I had to go look that one up Ken...so in a good way or was he arrogant?I have heard from past interviews he was somewhat easy to get along?🤨

He wasn't actually in the West German Luftwaffe, they wanted him but the US Airforce sent word thru NATO representatives that he was unacceptable... The Germans could have chosen him anyway, but decided not to...

It is the only appointment of WWII Luftwaffe officers that was interfered with by the new NATO, (read US hierarchy) This was due to alleged sympathies with neo-nazi organizations... He became a consultant to the Argentine Airforce of Juan Peron.... Eventually returning to Germany and starting a consulting organization which eventually gained contracts with the West German Luftwaffe... He never held a military rank after WWII...  He eventually became good friends with Douglas Bader and godfather to Bader's son.... And unofficially friends with many US Air Force officers, He was an Anti Nazi, both Goering and Himmler tried to get him imprisoned or assassinated during the war...

He was an affable chap, very easy to get along with and one of the greatest fighter pilots to ever fly... An ace in both propeller fighters and jets... While with the Argentinian AF he flew the Gloster Meteor, he was reported to have said that if the Germans had anything like the meteor engine in the Me-262 it would have been the greatest fighter jet of all time....

1 hour ago, CDW said:

Thanks! I’m going to check eBay. 

Search the internet first your looking for names like 

Glardon-Vallorbe...

Corradi...

Esslinger

Grobet...

Ebay isn't the place to look brother...

The real deal.... (but pricey, but then you know as we all do, you get what you pay for)

EG

6 hours ago, gsdpic said:

And yes as I build, I have the bad habit of allowing the work area to get more and more cluttered, shrinking the space I have to do work.

Look at any of my builds and you see the same identical thing... We all have that tendency brother...