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Egilman

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Everything posted by Egilman

  1. Yeah we had a real problem there for the first year and a half of the war, it wasn't the torpedo itself, guidance was the main issue, no guarantee that when fired they would go where they were targeted... then the second issue reared it's head, IF they ran correctly, (a big "IF") and happened to strike a target, there was a 40% chance they would fail to detonate.... (even with the failure to detonate problem, if they had ran straight and accurate, many many more Japanese ships would have been sent to the bottom a lot earlier in the war than they actually were) All that changed with the The Armistice of Cassibile September 3rd '43, the Italians surrendered and the Regia Marina's agreement to surrender themselves to the allies rather than be taken by the Germans, they brought with them the Mk 18 torpedo, or more important it's guidance system... It was specifically mentioned in the negotiations that the US Navy wanted it.... They turned it over when they surrendered at Malta... It was adapted to US Navy torpedoes by February 1944, You hear no reports of serious issues with our torpedoes after that..... The early war disaster that our torpedoes were, was a closely held military secret.... Every bit as tight a secret as Ultra, The Manhattan project, UHF Radar and the Mark 24 mine.....
  2. The Long Lance torpedo was right up there in effectiveness department.... was considered the second best torpedo design pre WWII behind the Italian Mk 18..... What made them most effective though was the Japanese tactical usage of them.... They viewed a torpedo as a one shot weapon, use it before you lose it.... so their tactical doctrine called for them being fired before they went into a general gunfire battle.... (ie, once your in a gun battle it's next to impossible to do the precise maneuvering necessary for effective torpedo attack, as the US Navy learned to serious effect) The Japanese would formulate their battle plan so they would fire their torpedoes at the start of the battle guesstimating the maneuvers of the enemy once the engagement started..... They would shoot their torpedoes at where the enemy ships would be or would have to go to, (once the gun battle started) from long range...... Gun battles using optical gun control necessitated closing the range as quickly as possible, either crossing the "T" or bringing the battle line closer together so the guns would be at their most effective range... Direct approach to the target, and turn one way or the other..... In close quarters where maneuvering is restricted by shore lines and shoals the enemy's movement can be predicted given the positions of the ships and the prevalent tactics used at the time... The Japanese, using their tactical doctrine, would fire at where the ships had to go.... A huge tactical advantage with a torpedo that could range out to 25k yards, (outer limit of gun range for cruisers) This doctrine was devastating in the battles around Savo Island and throughout the Guadalcanal campaign.... In several battles, our heavy cruiser battle lines were pretty much disabled before they could really get into effective gun range allowing the Japanese to destroy them with shellfire...... Most of our torpedoes, (Destroyers & Cruisers) went down with their ships... Later in the war, it was less effective cause we had learned that closing quickly was not the right tactic, backing off and bringing in aircraft was the right tactic.... Hard lessons learned.....
  3. Yeah, that's one way, and if the kit is split along the waterline, you can get a real good result for fairly flat seas.... But what I've found if you want to do any serious seaway above dead flat, you need a full hull... This is why I use the carve the hull into the foam technique.... You can model an active seaway in this manner..... Smaller ships look better in non-smooth water, especially a destroyer with a bone in it's teeth chasing a sub, or making a high speed torpedo pass.... It does make the base deeper, but the trade off is a more defined seaway imparting action in it's natural environment... Imagine the Tamaroa in 90 ft seas.... No one's done that yet that I know of.... Or the SS Pendleton and Fort Mercer rescues in 70 foot seas.... (USCGC Acushnet WMEC-167 for the Fort Mercer rescue) Those are extremes I know, but it proves one thing, you need a full hull to do seaways in action, no matter the size of the ship....
  4. Yep, pretty typical of all these ships where there is a plethora of conflicting information, they had to make some choices and they seldom get it completely right..... But they try.... At least we have the basic ship in hopefully the correct configuration for some of it life.... Some manufacturers/designers can't even get the basic hull shape correct....
  5. Sad to say this is the case, lotsa great kits have been lost over the years in just this way..... Life moves on.....
  6. She was painted in admiralty dazzle when she left the NY yard in '42, and remained that way throughout the war all the way up to her going to the breakers, her dazzle was repainted twice during the war, so faded is good, lotsa rust is not...... Faded, chalked with hints of rust around a few edges would be a good look... Looks like your almost there... Well done...
  7. Nah, I would just botch it up...... beside I have to actually see it to rig it.... But thanks for the complement my friend...
  8. My pleasure brother, it's what we are here for.... What a chart like that and a ordering source does is allow you to grade your rigging on a 1/350th scale warship the same as they do for the wooden 1/48 scale ships.... Like my Gwin, the mast stays are 2 to 2.5 inch cable layed wire rope, about .008 inch in size, while the antennaes are usually 1/2 inch solid aluminum wire... about .0015 inch in scale...... the running rigging is 1/2 to 3/8th inch manila rope so that is where you use the 50 AGW size wire and just under .001 in size makes a 3/8th rope in 1/350th scale... Using wire, you can scale your rigging in 1/200th or 350th scales easy peasy..... I get fine motor winding coil wire cause it is enameled as insulation to prevent shorts, what this allows is you to use inks or very thin paint to color it without issues of the paint sticking..... Mucilage is used to glue it, yes mucilage, the same envelope paste used in decoupage when we were kids in school.....
  9. Showcase Models Aus, has been offline since 2017..... Their website no longer responds to links saying it doesn't exist which means the domain doesn't even exist anymore..... So no, the model kit is no longer manufactured.... Although there are some available on Evil bay.... Get them while you can if you want one.......
  10. Amazon is the source, there are several types but you can get almost any gauge you need direct from the manufacturers... Here is an online chart of wire sizes expressed as AWG gauge sizes but lists it's english and metric equivalent sizes.... Wire Chart (you can order directly from them if you want) It's not as expensive as you think, certainly a lot cheaper than buying from hobby suppliers.... The above example, 50 AWG, measures just under a thousandth of an inch and just over .025mm...... I last bought some 44 AWG off amazon, a spool just shy of 10K feet.... For under 20 bucks, at just under 2 thousandths of an inch it will do most rigging for the scales of 1/200 and lower.... and almost two miles of it, most of my general rigging needs are handled....
  11. It's already out there.... https://www.scalemates.com/kits/trumpeter-05632-uss-langley-av-3--1319580 Hobby Link and Hobby search, out if Japan, the US dealers are still doing preorders..... The kit alone is 100.00 US, shipping from Japan? probably 140.00ish or so.... Haven't heard a lot of splash on it on the boards, probably not too many people have it in hand yet...
  12. Gotta agree here, most American beers are horse whizz.... especially the IPA's... But then when I do drink beer (rarely) it's either Henry's PR cold or Millers HL in any temp state as long as it's fresh.... For a good relaxing drink after a hard day, Mike's HL...
  13. That's some fairly small stuff as well, Gold plated tungsten 0.00314961 in diameter, smaller than an average human hair also..... It's used for drawing the toner off cartridges and drums in laser printers...... You never know where your going to source your materials and sometimes it can be surprising....
  14. .047mm is equal to .002in That's two thousandths of an inch, about half the thickness of a piece of paper..... Actually it's a hair smaller than that but who's going to quibble over a ten thousandth of an inch....
  15. Another source of info on WWII British Navy warships.... https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/As-detailed-in-the-original-builders-plans/s/126 An excellent detail resource... they are available at many used book resellers...
  16. The way the Warspite's hull was constructed, (all the Elizabeth class battleships were) was plates bolted to frames from inside, so there would be no noticeable connections on the outside of the hull, horizontal strakes were laid on the hull consisting of vertical plates butted together and bolted to the individual frames. They alternated strakes, first were laid directly on the frames and the frames were built up between succeeding strakes, subsequent strakes were laid over the existing strakes to form the hull..... Vertical seams were cut to very tight tolerances and packed when bolted to the frames..... They would be hardly noticable .... image from her 1941-42 refit in New York Subsequent improvements to the hull over the years, (like the torpedo bulges installed in her 1924 refit) were welded construction....... As you can see from the image it is hard to pick out the vertical plate joints, they are there but even 50 feet away with a high res camera, (for it's day) they are very hard to see, smaller than the ropes holding up the scaffolding.... (image courtesy of Russ Watton from 'Anatomy of the Ship #35 - The Battleship Warspite' published 1986, Naval Institute Press.... At 1/350th? why bother....
  17. Depends on the power of the motor, it can be as thin as under .001"..... the stuff I use is just under .002"....
  18. Your skills are growing brother.... Very impressive on a subject not so often highlighted..... One of the good things about Heller & Tamiya, they did cover many off the wall subjects you won't find anywhere else..... Well done...
  19. I agree here with LH, the images in the instructions show two gears that are almost the same size, where your assembly shows two gears that are distinctly different size.... Not being critical, but you sure you have the right gear?
  20. I'm experiencing some of this now.... The speed of my minds eye is not what it used to be relative to my skills... {chuckle}
  21. Neither can I, I'm learning this on the Gwin, it looks beautiful, and yes it takes time, but also skills and lessons learned brought forward from the past.... Some of us just don't have it, we aspire to it, willing to do the work to get us there, but there is nothing short of absolute experience to get to that level of building..... Some of us (like me) will never get there...
  22. Those lifts are designed to do exactly that... they were originally installed in parking garages.... They were adapted to serve in auto repair shops, they have a ratchet mechanism which absolutely prevents them from dropping..... Hard to find an auto shop around here that still uses a hydraulic or air cylinder lift anymore.... You see the cylinders in the bay floors of the older shops but the lift plate and controls are gone....
  23. You could always promote her to Fleet Admiral, give her a solid gold brooch with five stars to make it official....
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