ScottRC

Thanks for all the kind comments and likes folks. 
 
It seems a long time since the last update, but progress has been steady with all of the final fittings. I re-made a number of the fittings: The Exhaust, Gas Cap, Rear Flag Pole Base, and Hatch Cover Handles. With all of these, the castings were useable, but the time and effort to clean up the flash and then polish and potentially re-plate them meant that it was easier to re-make them. All were made from brass and chrome plated on completion. I added some knurling to the lid of the Gas Cap just for some extra interest (and because I hadn’t used the knurling tool on my lathe yet).
 
The Fwd and Aft Flagpoles were turned on the lathe from walnut stock, after first drilling them to receive lighting wires and/or brass locator pins. Another fairly straight forward exercise that posed no particular problems. Both the flagpoles have been made removable to provide some protection during transit to and from the lake.
 
I had ordered some replacement cloth flags from BECC but was a little disappointed in the product when they arrived – they are only printed on one side. So I used the kit provided flags instead and the “client” is happy with these.
 
Once the final soldering of the lighting wires was completed and tested, it was time to present the completed boat to the “client” for provisional acceptance. She was delighted with the final product. All that remains now is sea trials prior to final acceptance. Given that a successful float test has already been completed in the domestic testing facility, sea trials may need to wait until the weather warms up a bit as the manual recovery system says he doesn’t wasn’t to go swimming just yet! 
 
With that, I’m calling DONE! 
 
Here are a few glam shots of the final product.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Somewhat better lighting.
 








 

Once it stops raining I will try to get some better pictures outside for better lighting.  The iPhone is ok for general pictures but not so great in lower lighting.
 

Still alive.  Finally got some time in the shop.  I really didn't like the kit supplied stand.  It was a "barrel" about 1 cm in diameter that had a small slot cut in it which you are instructed to use epoxy to glue them to the base.  Seemed way too unstable so I used some scrap wood and traced the outline of 2 frames from the plans onto it and made something a bit more stable.  
 

 
Will seal and finish them and decide if I like this board or need to get another one.
 

 
One thing, I am not sure if the feet on the base should be so wide....
 
 
 
edit:  Forgot to show the old stand picture.

 

Got the hammock netting installed. Didn't turn out as good as I would like. My camera doesn't capture the details I can see. I would suggest if anyone ties the netting to the rope edging use a much finer thread. Mine had too large of knots everywhere I tied one. Most of it is hidden though. 
 
Went on and tied the longboat on. was worried it would be in the way of trying to tie to the pin rails but then thought that it might be just as hard to tie it down later too.
 
Jesse
 

Those boats look much better, very scale.  Great work!
Scott

Etubino,
I will be following your build log as well, I am trying to start a Scientific Sea Witch.   
Scott

I also completed a 1/700 CV2 Lexington this year, and for Christmas, received a 1/700 CV16 in WW2.  So now my goal is to have a model of all the ships called Lexington. Here is a pic of all three.
Scott

Its been almost four years ago and I forgot about this build log.  I did finish the Lex and hopefully get a display cabinet built in the future for it and all my Dad's certificates and burial flag.  Here are the completed pictures.  I hope I can say that I actually completed my first build log. 
 

Its been almost four years ago and I forgot about this build log.  I did finish the Lex and hopefully get a display cabinet built in the future for it and all my Dad's certificates and burial flag.  Here are the completed pictures.  I hope I can say that I actually completed my first build log. 
 

I also completed a 1/700 CV2 Lexington this year, and for Christmas, received a 1/700 CV16 in WW2.  So now my goal is to have a model of all the ships called Lexington. Here is a pic of all three.
Scott

Its been almost four years ago and I forgot about this build log.  I did finish the Lex and hopefully get a display cabinet built in the future for it and all my Dad's certificates and burial flag.  Here are the completed pictures.  I hope I can say that I actually completed my first build log. 
 

I also completed a 1/700 CV2 Lexington this year, and for Christmas, received a 1/700 CV16 in WW2.  So now my goal is to have a model of all the ships called Lexington. Here is a pic of all three.
Scott

Its been almost four years ago and I forgot about this build log.  I did finish the Lex and hopefully get a display cabinet built in the future for it and all my Dad's certificates and burial flag.  Here are the completed pictures.  I hope I can say that I actually completed my first build log. 
 

Here are some updates.  Been having digital camera problems so the pics are not the greatest.
 
 

Hello everyone After a long break, I have found the model hobby again. and to restart softly. I have redesigned the lifeboats. I have sanded them round and then planked them up with paper strips . an idear i got from following  Nenad "s build .

As promised, Here are pictures of the new work bench.
I had a small wooden drafting/hobby desk. Worked great for about 10 years. For Christmas my Wife bought me a new one. It's 35% larger surface area and steel supports so it is very stable. Used it the first time last night working on 1/350 A-6E's for my Vinson project.
 
Here is what I used for 10+ years:

 
 
Here are pictures of my new one. I like the tray in front. Very handy.

 
Here is one of the new large Xacto self-healing mats:

 

 
And here is it in use:

 
Now plenty of room to build:
 

With some free time on my hands (It's 7F outside (-14C or 259K) and no flying for me!), I got back to the Syren. Moving now into the third chapter and looking at creating the gun and sweep ports when I noticed that my sanding had been, how shall I say this<?>, a little too zealous?! I removed a slew of the laser cut measure lines for this.... so out with the calipers and plans... I had to re-mark them all. Sometimes I feel like I have a toad for a brain. Ready now to move ahead. 
~john
 
 

Well,my Royal William is finally done after adding the lower yard braces,sheets,tacks, & flags.  The flags are really nice - printed on silk with great colors. The flags were simply wetted down & pinned to a board with some folds & when dry they held their shape.This has been quite a journey with all the interaction with Pete & others. My sincere gratitude to Pete for helping me out on some of the areas that I was not that knowledgeable about - I don`t think I could have finished it without his help. Thanks also to all those who commented,hit the like button,or just silently followed along.Despite some of the mistakes, I am happy at the way it turned out. I will try to get some more pics in the gallery in a day or two. 
Now what shall I do next......................................................................................................
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Mark

Another minor update...
 
Last night I filled the gap between the (castello) boxwood beakhead replacement and the false keel, and this morning I sanded it smooth, narrowing the beakhead a little so it tapers as it goes down towards the keel. I also took the opportunity to smooth the beakhead a little so it's a curved profile at the front. Once that was done, I was able to finish the coppering on the starboard side... (phew!) I'm glad this hull isn't any bigger - all those Agamemnon builders have my respect - their patience is considerable! That said, I find coppering fairly enjoyable once I got into the swing of it.
 
It isn't perfect, and there are far better examples on this site, but I'm really happy with it.
 


 

 
I might start on the quarter galleries before I copper the other side - I fancy doing something different for a bit!
 
Rob

"Phewwwww"    That was a close one.
 
OC.

well folks.......she is finished.   right after I had assembled the net thing,  she got torpedoed by a rogue glue bottle..........but the damage was minor and it was repaired in no time.  all that was left to do,  was cement on the multitude of antennas.....and there ya go!   I think it's time for a change for the work stations.....I want to move one into Kevin's old room.   I may get my wish  
   so...with out further adoooooo....here is the Jeanne D'Arc.








I didn't bother to do much rigging to her........there were no holes to do it,  nor did I think to add any.  I didn't feel like flirting with disaster.   I do wish it was a larger scale,  but I still found some enjoyment with it.  I saw that Revell had a kit on the market.......for the looks,  I'd suggest this model.....Revell looks a bit fake.
  I hope those who followed enjoyed the build   

I have had the same problems with painting copper over gloss surfaces and vise versa until I was taught the following technique:
 
 - Spray a coat of matte clear over the entire model, including your topcoat, this will seal the topcoat and give both the tape and bottom paint a textured surface to "bite" into.
 - Lay your mask down, as was said, the Tamiya range of masking tape is the best.  They now make tape that fits contours.
 - Spray a coat of clear over the mask at your demarcation line, this will add an additional seal.
 -  Then spray your next color and let sit for at least a full 24 hours if its enamel.  It takes a long time for this to cure.  If not fully cured, it will peel off in sheets.
 - De-mask, inspect, wipe clean all mask residue with a mild solvent, then spray on a few light coats of clear gloss, let sit and enjoy the finish.
 
Scott
 

Ok. Poop deck rail stanchions are done. I bled profusely (again) for my ‘art’ and took the time to snap a pic of the proof. The admiral was not impressed but I was able to squeak an extra pity beer from the larder to help stem the blood loss and numb the pain. 
 
I decided to try the toothpicks in a different way this time. Gotta love it...all the trunnels are toothpicks, so why not the rail stanchions!  Besides, they look pretty good and not as boring as the square timbers that are called for in the plans. 
 
Also finished painting the channels and chain plates...paint is drying. 
 
Moving on. 

Got to admit that the painted chain plates turned out well. Tried bending a spare chain plate into the loop of a stropped deadeye and it bent easily without the paint cracking. (Using Tamiya paints)
 
Also really needed to see how the cheapie ‘toothpick’ stanchions looked. (Toothpicks are cheap wood and during painting they did get thready...but it’s all good). Had to also carefully drill the holes into the cap rail deep enough to give the stanchion pins (26 gauge wire) enough bite to grip the hole. 
 
After setting them in, they actually look pretty good!  Need to sand down the tops a bit flatter to set the poop rail evenly, but all in all a pretty good result so far. I think the toothpick stanchions add a bit of zing!  The square stanchion don’t look as elegant. 😌
 
Note:   Drilling holes in my model raises my blood pressure!  (Cured with a glass of blended scotch. TGIF)
 
Moving on....