AnobiumPunctatum

In order to be able to securely fasten the model to the stand, two recesses for nuts were milled into the keel board and two holes were drilled for M3 threaded rods.


Today I glued the ribs into the prepared keel board. For the right-angled alignment I built small auxiliary constructions out of Lego bricks.

 

Thank you all for the helpful input. I know I tend to over think some things, so validation of these tendencies is something I am always open to. As suggested, I did take the smallest bit off here and there as needed. Then I went in and colored in with a #2 in the few areas that the char was removed. End result was a fairly tight fit across the board. I did encounter a bit of trouble nicely fitting the two main parts of the stem together...took a bit of extra sanding. A couple areas are not as tightly fit (result of my sanding to fit, not the laser cut) and the seam ended up a bit wider than I had hoped for. But it fits to the drawings, so I left it as is. Still needs a bit of sanding to finish it up; however, in the end, I think it looks okay.
 

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.

Thank you to all the 'Likes'.
 
Installation of the wales
 
Inspired by the method used by Blue Ensign, I decide to leave in place the batten strip that determines the position of the wales.
To prevent it from sticking to the bulkheads, I stick a strip of self-adhesive transparent paper on its inside and apply two good coats of acrylic varnish on its edge.

 
When I am satisfied with the positioning of the 2 reference batten (they follow the reference marks quite precisely with a few adjustments), I can rely on them to set up the first planking strip. I use 5/32" wide cherry strips with a thickness of 3/64" (luckily I was able to get them mill to the right size).
 

 
I start gluing from the bow and move forward slowly gluing the strip on 4 to 5 bulkheads at a time.
 

 
The first strake is glued. I had to shorten the reference batten strip to facilitate the gluing at the stern and to be able to position precisely the first strake at the break of the counter and square tuck.
 

 
I also had to do an additional sanding of the outer frame at the stern (about 1/32") because I noticed that I had a dip appearing.
 

 
The second strake is then glued in the same way: gluing on 4 to 5 bulkheads at a time. It should be noted that at the bow, the strip has been preformed by folding it after having moistened it and using a heat source to keep its shape.
 

 
I then remove the reference batten strip and don't encounter any problems. The plasticized sheet and the varnish fulfill their role perfectly.
 

 
 I just had a little varnish that remained stuck on some bulkheads by the excess of glue. But this can be removed without any problem. The batten strip could be removed without any problem.
 

 

 

 
I will now glue the first layer of the molding strip.
 
 
 
 

Post 51: Stepping the mast
 
The mast was a fairly tight fit and so after leveling the ship with a digital inclinometer, a digital level in the cross- hair mode was to check the vertical alignment:
 

 

 
Other distractions such as the Australian Open Tennis Championship and the Americas Cup have kept me out of the workshop lately and now it is the start of the rugby union season.  I am also waiting for the delivery of some rope from Chuck so there might not be much progress for a while.
 
This will give me time reflect on my rigging strategy.  Chuck suggests rigging from the inside to the outside and I can see the logic in this.  However does prevent preparing the shroud gangs off the ship slipping and other standing rigging off the ship and slipping the over the mast.  They would need to be seized on the ship and, although my Quad Hands would help, I am not convinced I can do it uniformly and without damage to other fittings.  I can always slip the shrouds over but not rig them until later.  Its kind of messy so I need to think a bit more about it,
 
John
 

In order to be able to securely fasten the model to the stand, two recesses for nuts were milled into the keel board and two holes were drilled for M3 threaded rods.


Today I glued the ribs into the prepared keel board. For the right-angled alignment I built small auxiliary constructions out of Lego bricks.

 

In order to be able to securely fasten the model to the stand, two recesses for nuts were milled into the keel board and two holes were drilled for M3 threaded rods.


Today I glued the ribs into the prepared keel board. For the right-angled alignment I built small auxiliary constructions out of Lego bricks.

 

In order to be able to securely fasten the model to the stand, two recesses for nuts were milled into the keel board and two holes were drilled for M3 threaded rods.


Today I glued the ribs into the prepared keel board. For the right-angled alignment I built small auxiliary constructions out of Lego bricks.

 

In order to be able to securely fasten the model to the stand, two recesses for nuts were milled into the keel board and two holes were drilled for M3 threaded rods.


Today I glued the ribs into the prepared keel board. For the right-angled alignment I built small auxiliary constructions out of Lego bricks.

 

In 2016 I bought Chuck's Starting set from a fellow modeler who became a father. I glued the false keel together and then packed everything in a big box. While preparing the Winchelsea build, the box fell into my hands and I decided to build both models more or less in parallel. I can practise all the building steps on the much smaller Cheerful model before I do them on the Winchelsea.
 
Since the false keel I built at that time was no longer usable and I want to build the model from Yellow Cedar, I asked Chuck for spare parts. These arrived on Saturday morning with a small delivery of wood. Many thanks for the first class service, @Chuck .
 
I will build the model according to the instructions and with the help of the mini-kits. I have only one change planned - I want to copper the underwater hull.
The slipway is a bit big for the small cutter, but as I still had it, it was reactivated.
 
On Saturday evening I glued the false keel together and let it dry overnight. The frames could only be pushed into the recesses with difficulty - the thickness of plywood is always subject to slight fluctuations. I made a small sanding stick out of 180-grit sandpaper and a suitable strip. Then go over the lasered edges two or three times on each side and the frames fit perfectly (the frames are not glued in now).
 
 

Finally, the stem was assembled.
 

 

In order to be able to securely fasten the model to the stand, two recesses for nuts were milled into the keel board and two holes were drilled for M3 threaded rods.


Today I glued the ribs into the prepared keel board. For the right-angled alignment I built small auxiliary constructions out of Lego bricks.

 

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.

What you see, comes mostly from the laser. It doesn't cut perpendicular to the wood. After a little bit of sanding the outside is looking fine.
This is the stem of my model build with the parts, Chuck provides.

Yes! I am excited about this. I am fairly new to the ship model scene and have only completed one ship to date, the HMS Victory - my first model. Although I paid a premium for the model, it did come with exceptional instructions, which were a life saver. Thankfully, I found the hobby to be 100% relaxing and enjoyable. When laying the billion copper tiles one by one on the Victory I would find myself entranced and awake hours later having cut, shaped, attached a hundred or so in one sitting. Did not expect it to have this effect on me. Although it took me the better part of two years, I did complete the HMS Victory and have had it on display...it may not be professional grade, but it sure is a show piece and I get excited whenever a visitor walks up to it and I see how hard it is for them to resist touching the thing.
 
Well, I have since been working on the USS Constitution and this time around I find myself modifying, upgrading, adapting the model as often as my knowledge and skills allow. Now that I am nearing the rigging stage on the Constitution I figured it was time to look for a new challenge when...what do you know...I found the HMS Winchelsea. I started buying rigging and blocks from Syrene for the Constitution so it was inevitable that I come across this. Although I can not start into it for another few weeks, I am eager to get going and am going to try to scratch build as much as possible. I will be lurking around everyone's builds and asking lots and lots of questions. Of course, always here to offer what little that I have experienced and know as well as keeping this build log up to date as best as possible.

No. The frames are 3mm birch plywood with 5 layers and the filling is poplar plywood.

I have had a bit of flow the last couple of days, and have almost finished with the rivets on one side. I have found a method that is somewhat efficient.
 
First I cut about 1 mm wide strips of black card stock. From the strips I cut small square washers. I use a pin to punch a 0.5 mm wide hole in the middle of the squares, and push the pin through a hole in a wood strip to widen the hole in the washer.

The washers are threaded over the rivet pins and a drop of diluted PVA glue is put on the pin before i press the washer flush with the plank.
 

In between the riveting I have started with the oars. I'm still experimenting a bit with the most efficient way to make all 16. I think I will end up proceeding with the way I have started, using my new whittling and cutting knifes. Regarding the form of the oars, especially the oar blades I don't have any definite sources. I have searched around a bit, and have opted for something similar to what the viking ship museum in Roskilde have used for their reconstructions. The length of the oars is the same as is used on the reconstruction.
 

 
 
 

Good morning Chuck,
 
I found in W.E.May "The boats of the Men of War"  that there were two different options for a fith rate with 32 guns:
 
1761: 3 boats - 23ft longboat, 30ft pinnace and a 24ft yawl
1781: 5 boats - 23ft/ 24 ft launch, 30ft pinnace, 2x 18ft cutters
 
I think it should be nice to show all boats with the ship.

If you build a third version with your own cut bulheads I wouldn't recommend a second planking. For this you have to divide the thicknes of your planks. The thicker planks are looking much better than veneer. I recommend filling the area between the bukheads with basswood, similar to the narrow strips for the piece ports. After sanding you can fill all smaller mistakes to get a nice hull shape.

Really really wonderful. There are so many details and technics, which I also can later use for my Triton project.
 
I have one question. The historical model show that the upper part of the knee of the head was painted blue. Is it your personal choice to paint this black or is there another reason?
 

Scuppers in German means "Speigatten"