BANYAN

You should be pleased Glen, they turned out a treat. cheers Pat

A stunning model Chuck; enjoying your log. cheers Pat

Hi again folks, back at the bench having caught up with the chores, and finding a temporary solution for the 'old fella' shakes - Beta Blockers. These have a limited effect but enough to allow me to do a few things. I have started back on the masts and their furniture. The following shows me making the second of the top masts (still have the mizen to go). These are a combined stick or pole mast where the top, top gallant and royal masts are all in one. I cheat and turn these up in the lathe, using files and sanding sticks. I support where the various steps (shoulders) are cut to delineate the masts with a 'jack'. Not visible is a shallow 'v' groove but I cannot put much pressure on this as the mast is tapered and therefore not fully supported across the saddle - I really need to make a small saddle piece for this jack. The other photos show my approach for filing the flats on each side of the tapered lower mast in which the hounds/cheeks (iron) sit. The process is to gently hold the mast in the jaws of my indexing head (for a Sherline mill), then line up the end of the inset/flat with the end guide of my filing guide. Adjusting the height is very finicky but I got there, and now that it is set-up I can do both flats exactly to the same depth, length and 180 opposed. It took a while for me to sort how I was going to do this, but this worked. One learning point though is that I will need to better protect the mast in the jaws. I ended up with a very small mark but nothing significant. The hardened rollers allow me to get an even flat surface to the depth set (manually) while the roller lugs act as an end stop. Even though manually adjusted I lucked out and got it about right. Now that the flats are done, I can determine the exact width the trestle trees need to be apart so that I can build a jig to solder them to the formed rim part (fore crosstree plus rim). I will show that soon. The brass (photoetched) hounds were designed with the trestle tree attached (with a fold line) which I have done. This is a test piece which has not been cleaned up yet. I will also drill out the bolt holes and use simulated bolt heads and nuts in a staggered/alternating pattern when fitting to the mast. the idea of the flats was to ensure the hounds (cheeks) and trestletree remained perpendicular to the mast centerline axis rather than sloping inwards. The fore-and-aft angle will also need to be adjusted to ensure the trestle trees remain parallel with the deck/waterline when fitted. cheers Pat

Hi Glen, those paddle wheel covers came up a treat, the slots are particularly nicely done/defined. cheers Pat

Difficult? Bah! I am sure you will find a solution Glen - these issue just add to a greater sense of fulfilment on completion later (easy for me to say). Looking forward to your problem solving on this one; if it was me I would just cut the bottom of the bottle, fit the hull etc. then glue it back on - but that is why you are a master of this artform, no shortcuts for you. cheers Pat

Another interesting backdrop Glen, should look great! cheers Pat

Those fantail decorations came up a treat Ian, nice bright opaque colour; very nicely done. cheers Pat

Hi Glen, WRT CNC - Computer Numerical Control which is a machining method for mills etc using a specialized computer code to control the path of the cutter. I thought this method may have been a walk in the park for you Now for a tot of Bundy Rum (yummy!) cheers Pat

Oh please do this one Glen, I hear you are real dab hand with CNC Seriously though there are plenty of approaches. I visited a motor museum in the Melbourne (Australia) area a while ago and was pleased to find some 'folk art' style model ships a local had made using drink cans (and another excuse to buy some additional beverages - as stock for the build of course). I think he may have formed the hulls from a wood plug then cut individual (large) plates which he then used to build up the hull and superstructure. Whichever way you go I am sure it will be another masterpiece. cheers Pat

Those planks are looking great Keith and really start to emphasize the beautiful hull form of this vessel. Enjoying watching your progress. cheers Pat

Nice find Keith, I'll have to look into these and see if they do 1:72 (or something close) as well. Looking forward to seeing these in-situ as you are doing a great paint job. Glad to hear Maggie continues to improve mate. cheers Pat

Great project Glen, ships from this period are of particular interest to me, so I am really interested to see what you come up with this time. cheers Pat

I wish they would here also Keith cheers Pat

Hi Steven, a couple of thoughts. If t is not too late, I would avoid a fret saw as the blade is very flexible and may wander while cutting? I would look at a high tooth count fine stiff backed saw such as a small 'gentleman's' dovetail saw. I bought one years ago and it has proven very reliable for this purpose. The following is a Zona version (I think Hobby Tools Australia have this brand). The second is more of an alternative idea for your wheel spokes. - that is unless the real wheel has straight spokes anyway. I have had previous success using tooth picks - the ones with the fancy ends like the cocktail ones. I simply cut off the outer nub and round the new end a bit, then cut to length. They look reasonably good when stained. Your current one looks good, simply offering an alternative for future versions if interested. These ones are available from Woolworths. cheers Pat

Enjoy the build Grant and a very happy birthday. Your sister is quite talented, a very nice painting. Will you paint this one in the revised colour scheme the actual ship is now/will be sporting? cheers Pat

A great (and nice looking) little project Steven, enjoyed the catch-up on your log. If doing multiples 3D printing some of the items such as the chairs, gates etc may help and be a lot cheaper/easier when considering the time you would spend if making them? then again if just providing the stock the cost would not be a concern but may put some budding modellers off? A great idea and what a great way to preserve some local history, I doff my hat. cheers Pat

Love the colour of those planks Keith. The planks are sitting really nicely. cheers Pat

Great to see you persevering Mark. cheers Pat

This will be one very finely lined model Keith; your preparation, as with your work, is simply outstanding. cheers Pat

There I go and not pay close attention to the forum and you sneak another wonderful build under my nose - how dare you! I don't know how I missed the log. At least it gave me some interesting reading when I found it today (only a month late but I'll put that down to encroaching 'old fella' symptoms). Great to see that you were able to satisfy all those 'stalkers and their penguins' in this build log . Again you impress with your dioramas providing a very interesting setting and nicely presented SIB. You should create a 'coffee table' style book of your work mate, it will hold up to any scrutiny. cheers Pat

Hi Bob, agree your reasoning WRT using such coils. These coils may have been a bit more commonly used than perhaps thought. Further to Bob's comments, even in this day and age (well when I was in the service at least) where synthetic cordage is commonly used (and more prone to the effects of UV), these decorative coils were in common use for rope whenever the ship was in harbour/at the buoy or at anchor. When underway 'proper' working coils were always used. These coils are also evident in images of HMCSS Victoria (1855). It appears this may have been the general practice in RN ships (or military type ships) back then also, as can be seen in the following photograph (c.1858) of the gun tackle working parts being cheesed (or more correctly - Flemish coiled). The vessel was in harbour (moored) at the time. However, I must offer a point of difference in opinion WRT to how they were unwound. When reforming the coils, or taking the coil in hand, we would 'unwind' it from out to in by grasping the rope/line near the block or securing device, then walking the line out. This was the opposite to the way it was made up, which minimised the risk or tendency of the rope to kink, and allowed the rope to unwind with its lay. That said, other Services/ships may have done it differently. cheers Pat

Hi Vossey, I will try to describe the technique I use for 'cheesing' the tail ends of tackles. Not my original idea, but it works well for me. First soak your rope/thread, cut to an appropriate size (if doing separate) in a diluted solution of PVS/water ( I use about a 60 water/40 PVA). If using the actual tail end of the tackle, this still works but just soak the required length of the tail (working end of the falls) I use two small squares (or round) of clear plastic (from shirt boxes or the like). I punch a pin (usually a tack with raised plastic head) through both (See Photo). Separate the two leaving the upper plastic square/round on the pin, and put the outer/tail end of the rope/thread through the centre hole of the bottom square with about 1 to 2mm protruding to the bottom side. Put the pin back into this such that it holds the end and makes a sandwich with the thread between both plastic squares. Now rotate either the assembly or wind the thread around the centre pin to start making a flat cheesed coil to the desired diameter. Allow the finished coil to dry before removing; the plastic does not let them stick too much but still take some care when separating the coil from the plastic. These 'jigs' are so easy and cheap to make you can dispose and remake as required, especially when the centre holes become too large from wear/use. Just one way to do it. cheers Pat

Great way to rekindle those memories Mark; good luck with this project. cheers Pat

What a great result Eberhard; thanks for stepping us through the process. It looks very effective/realistic, especially at that scale. cheers Pat

A stunning build Richard; an exemplar of how to build such a model. I have very much enjoyed this build log so far. cheers Pat