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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    I've never even seen a dado stack (blades) for that sized table Bruce - it will be interesting to see if anyone has. I typically use my router for these tasks - putting a sacrificial piece of wood behind the piece being cut/routed protects it from chip-out keeping it all nice and clean looking. I like your solution though, seems to work well. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Hi Allan, I have not posted earlier as I thought you were calling for information much earlier than that I hold. For interest though, it may be useful to note that in HMCSS Victoria (1855), the Specification required: Wale, Sheerstrake and Topside.-Mahogany, thick 3 inches, to taper forward and aft to 2 inches. Also, the imagery shows a 'blended' strake hull (the wales etc do [edit - NOT] appear to stand proud). cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Placing the gun ports now is a very good idea Baker, will help a lot down the track. I also filled in much of the dead space between bulkheads, especially in the bow and stern, with my Endeavour build - it helped a lot. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi Steven, these could be the upper ends of the rising timbers but might also be the tops of cavels or the like - see attached which is from 'The Neophyte Ship Modeller's Jackstay'. Also, I agree these appear to be 'something' formed in loops as they appear to be draped over the timber tops rather than as a ring attached/fitted to the hull proper. Whether they are rope though I am not sure, as this is an unusual way to depict rope. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    No matter what the reason, great to see you back mate. I hope the recovery goes well. The revised stand looks good. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    That is such neat work Chuck; looks great. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Wow that is some nice work 👋. I hope it all works for you, but I am sure testing may highlight a few small improvements or fixes to be made. She sure will look a 'picture' on the pond/pool. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Very nice work on such a delicate skeletal frame Steven. Not surprising you had to make a few corrections, but it all looks symmetrical and starting to look a little more robust. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Agree wholeheartedly. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    You're making some great progress there Steven. The 'skeletal' framework looks very delicate, so I hope the fitting of the clamps, breast kooks etc stiffen this up sufficiently for you when working the planking etc. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    A great looking hull Baker - the sanding effort was well worth it. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Hi Glen, sorry have not commented much as I have been down and out with a flu of late - just getting back onto the horse so to speak. That is an incredibly well detailed miniature which will make into a very fine diorama; everything appears very nicely to scale. cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    I think this is a case of 'horses for courses'. I find that the more pre-rigging of the tops and yards you do the easier you make it on yourself later - BUT some of these lines will need to be coiled and kept out of the way. More importantly, you need to be somewhat selective on which lines you pre-rig. This will depend on the ship (type of rigging specifically) as some lines will simply get in the way if pre-rigged. So, as with my "Endeavour" build in particular, I had to go through the rigging well in advance to see what would be beneficial, but still not obstruct, the fitting of the yards and other rigging, by pre-rigging some lines beforehand. With some blocks I elected to set-up a small length of leader line (small) that I could pull the actual line through when needed rather than pre-rig the entire line. All that said, if I recall this still only accounted for a small number of lines as clearance was required to do the rat lines etc before rigging some of these lines. So essentially; your call after some analysis of which of these lines would or not interfere with other rigging processes such as doing the rattlin. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Some of the greatest inventions were found by 'accident' Glen Nice work mate. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Good ideas, thanks Eberhard and John - that idea had not even ventured into my fading brain cells. I'll give that a shot and hopefully find a way to 'mimic' the wood with paint. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Thanks Rob, I hope to post a small update early next week; I have been busy redoing the booms. The though of the gaffs scares me a little as, at this scale, they will be less than two millimetres diameter at the most. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    That some very finely detailed work Eberhard. The quality of your work at this scale is outstanding. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    ... and ready to be shipped to the dockyard by rail Seriously, that's some nicely executed work Michael, it looks so good. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    The planking looks good; coming along very nicely. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Wow - that's coming along very nicely Glen; looks great! The proportions and level of detail are spot on, especially for such a small model. Now, I have a little carving job if you are interes..... (quickly ducking for cover) cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Congrats Greg, that is great recognition of your efforts. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi Eberhard; many thanks for the consideration. I am slowly getting back into it. I still have issues with my hands shaking (not Parkinsons) which slows me on many days, but my GP is trying some new meds which may help further. Due to me laying off for that and a few other factors I sort of lost the 'mojo' (desire) to work on the model and became easily distracted in doing other things in the workshop I must say that your, and a couple of other modellers, recent updates helped motivate me. In the past week or two I have restarted work on the spars with the three booms almost complete. Then I'll start on the gaffs and the upper masts (all upper masts are 'in one' with a combined top, top-gallant and royal mast). In the meantime I had to continue my research on them, the rigging and the sails which has been progressing steadily. I needed that sorted to finish the drawings to allow me to make up the spars. I am still trying to work out ways to make the upper mast as the royal sections in particular are very slender at scale (under 2mm) and I need to insert/show an embedded lightening protection 'copper path' in all spars. This will be pretty delicate and I am still not sure if I can pull that off. Anyway, long story short - slowing increasing my time in the workshop doing model related work, but as the parts are repetitive at this point there is not much that is new to put online - but I will put-up some updates sooner rather than later (I know I have said that before . Again, many thanks for thinking of me; much appreciated. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Hi Bruce, that's a good start. My recommendation would be to use some 'T'-track on either side of the board (assuming the visible edges are straight and parallel? You could use an underlying baseboard to secure it to rather than route into the existing board should you wish to go that path? The parallel tracks can be further enhanced with a 90-degree knee (small square) behind the board to ensure it remains perpendicular, while the tracks would keep the board parallel with the central keel piece. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi Steven, thanks for the link. I was aware of this as the author lives near me and we have discussed this quite a bit. I think his research is spot on for the flag and I am using it in the Victoria. Thanks for taking the time to put this up. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Great to see you back Michael, had been missing your wonderful, high quality work. cheers Pat

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