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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Because it would up the cost of production in a kit, just to include useful information or detail that is going to be ignored by the builder. Most kit builders are not as detail conscious as the members at MSW, and kit manufacturers are not going to go to extra expense to include those details. The guys who really care are the members here, and they can count on guys like you for information to take their build to the next level.😁
  2. Henry, the 'presidential eagle' was my example of a Google search. I think Sal is needing the eagle from the Great Seal, but with the wings oriented downward. I just did a search for 'federal eagle' and did come up with this: I'm just not seeing the Great Seal with the shield on the chest and the banner in the beak with the wings oriented downward. Mabey a graphics wiz could combine two or more images to get Sal what he is looking for.
  3. No kit was getting those features ( headrails ,etc. ) right until Chuck came along.. Vanguard is making some very respectable stuff. I'm hoping to get up to speed in Fusion360 and create some respectable parts on my own with CNC.. I'm spending more time on method, than I am on ship building. Maybe I will get to a point where I can help someone out with their kits, but I'm not really interested in doing any full-time production stuff.
  4. https://www.google.com/search?q=presidential+eagle&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjRquHD9_L-AhVclGoFHeXgAxAQ0pQJegQICxAB&biw=1920&bih=1097&dpr=1
  5. Dave, the scrolls in the image you provided are part of the hair brackets, extensions of the cheeks, which are quite different than the typical moldings running the length of the ship, which are similar to the brass pieces you show. Here is a reference from Chuck's Winchelsea which shows how they are built up from lase cut parts. It might not be too difficult to make similar parts from scratch. The rail caps may end in a scroll, but the molding pattern is still somewhat diffierent than your brass pieces. I apologize if I am not understanding what you wish to accomplish.
  6. It would be hard for me to comment on the drop plank at the bow. The drop plank helps to keep the taper from being too profound. You want to avoid getting the width less than 1/2 the original width. It looks to me that your tapering looks consistent with a good appearance. For the stern, I agree consistent width looks better, but at this point, no drop plank would give you a plank tapered to 4.375 mm, which i think would look OK I think it is up to you. Once it is all finished smooth and oiled, or whatever finish you choose, I think it will look good either way.
  7. Here are some ideas. I was messed up on my math for the stern problem. 3.5cm Means you need 7 x 5mm planks to fill the space. You can do this with a drop plank. The possible issue with this design, is you need stock that is wider than 5mm. There are a couple ( or more ) ways you can approach this. Here are two possibilities. A filler piece like this that you blend in as well as you can. ...or like this. Again, matching up the wood as best you can. I hope this helps. Gregory
  8. For the bow, just taper the planks to 4mm. At the stern you could taper to 2.5 but it would look better with wider planks closer to 5mm. This could be done with maybe 2 drop planks. It would be later today for me to suggest a plan..
  9. Here is what I have for you so far. Without knowing the measurements at A, B & C I cannot say what kind of stealers and or drop planks you may need. How many full width planks can you place at B, or will the space divide evenly by 5? You may need a stealer at A rather than a drop plank, or you may not need any. If C is twice the distance at B you would need 8 stealers to fill the space, as a stealer replaces 1 plank with 2. A drop plank reduces 2 planks to one. From Mondfeld. Your stern would look like this if you had to turn 4 strakes into 8 to fill the gap. ( It would be done without the sharp points ) It may be difficult at this stage of the planking to make these corrections without removing some of the planks
  10. I heard from somewhere that the forests of Britain were wiped out during the Golden age of sail.
  11. Thank you... It will be later today before I can get to my graphics tools. Meanwhile, what is the width of your planking strips?
  12. Stern stealers do not seem to be very common on contemporary or scratch models. The builders just widen the planks as necessary. With kits this is not possible because there is no material for wider planks. Therefore one or more stealers will be necessary approaching the steepest. To approximate a planking expansion for this model, I would need the following information: The width of your planking stock The distance from the keel to the top of the sternpost The distance from the keel to the bottom of the Wales at a midship bulkhead. This is an actual measurement, not just the vertical distance. Also, the measurement from the keel at the turn of the stem, up to the bottom of the Wales. If this is not clear, I will try to provide a diagram later.
  13. To make a possible guess I would need to see a picture of the middle of the model. The area I have circled viewed straight on.
  14. The documents and many examples on this forum ( Look at the Cheerful and Winchelsea build logs ) are the best references we have. They are as clear and detailed as it gets. The primary concern is measuring the space available for the number of strakes, and yes, stealer or drop planks might be of help. I know you said you have read everything, but you might take another look at this: https://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining Off your hull for planking.pdf
  15. I particularly like the way the actual carriage shows how countersunk the eyebolts are and the washers under the through-bolts. The eyebolt for the breach rope ring also has an interesting shape, in that it is squared off to some extent and the ring fits fairly tight in the bolt. Those are some details to consider when modeling gun carriages. FWIW Your picture sparked some interest, and Googling for that image led me to: https://maritimearchaeologyprogramdenmark.wordpress.com/2010/01/06/guns-in-3d/ They have a 3D model for Rhino and Sketchup. I have neither program, so I downloaded the trial for Sketchup just to look at the model and have some details for future reference.
  16. The circled ports would have no lids. I'm not sure about 1 or two more forward and aft. It would depend on intervening bulkheads. In the absence of bulkheads, the free movement of air and water would be desirable.
  17. Gunport lids served no purpose on a weather deck. The enclosed spaces would benefit from them.
  18. Are the masts glued in place. If not, you can use the stays to achieve the desired rake. To affect the run of the ratlines in a noticeable way, the amount of rake would have to be substantial. On the plans, measure the angle between the mast and the deck. It's then fairly easy to make a template to match the angle.
  19. Do the plans not show the angle/rake of the masts?
  20. Did gun crews dress like that? I'm thinking some noble/aristocrat had himself painted as part of a gun crew..
  21. I think Allan nailed it with "artistic license "..;
  22. P.S. Allan, I thought you might like this picture. A triple block on the outhaul tackle, and two double blocks on the training tackle. 😁
  23. Here is a contemporary drawing from 1775. Found here.
  24. Allan, That particular drawing does not even include the extra ringbolts and other details often seen on the carriages. It doesn't seem to be a good example.
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