Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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That looks a lot like beech to me. Are you buying strips? Maple veneer makes a nice source for planking strips. If you have access to a wood-working store it's a great source for veneer, and you can pick and choose for pieces you like.
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Looking forward to seeing an update.. Your slow and steady approach makes me feel better about all my procrastinations.
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It will if the thread used to make the line has small enough fibers, which is usually the case with 'rope' from a source like Syren.. I wouldn't use CA because of the shine.
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How do I tell what size scale rope should be used?
Gregory replied to JoeMacD's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The size of your scale rope would depend on the scale of your model. If the actual rope was 4 inches in circumference, you would divide that by the scale of your model. There are any number of references for actual sizes. I have Lees masting and rigging, which may or may not be more than you want to spend. Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models has some tables, but I understand there is a calculation error that you have to account for. While most rigging size tables deal with circumference, it might be easier to work with diameter, which is circumference divided by 3.14. A 4 inch circumference rope would be 1.27 inch diameter. This would scale to about .02 inches at 1:64 scale. An anchor cable could be 22in. This would scale to .109 inches at 1:64. The smaller the rope the harder it might be to get a precise scale. Ratlines at 1: 64 would be no bigger than some common sewing thread. This is where you go for something that looks good proportion wise. I'm sure other members will have something to offer. -
Another tip for better measuring. Wrap 10 turns around a dowel then measure and divide by ten.
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At this scale the thread may be a bit overkill. Just a pencil helps define the edge of the planks. Charcoal tends to be messy, and hard to clean up if it ends up on top of the planks.
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I use black card or paper for my straps. I also use it for Pintles and Gudgeons, door hinges and such. I coat it with flat poly or acrylic. A lot easier to work with than metal. I have seen some people use black painters/masking tape, but it has a texture I don't care for.
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Not sure what constitutes a tackle where you are concerned, but I have seen contemporary models where there are blocks for halyards at the deck. Petersson shows tackles on the main and fore lift. He shows the fore & main jeers reaving through sheaves in the bitts. Here is an excerpt from Lee's that describes the jeers/lift rigged to a tackle attached to an eyebolt on deck. Whether his would be correct for the ship in question, I don't know, but it's not as if this type of rig was never used.
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Thanks John. Just to clarify, are those the 1 11/64" long - 29.75 mm barrels? They should be a good fit. I'm going to update my log shortly with my research on the guns. I hope you and others will find it useful. The differences are minor, and I don't want anyone obsessing over it like I did, and going to any expense for new parts.
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John, specifically, which carriage kits do you have from Syren?
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Your pictures of the quoin were not there when I posted, thus the joke..🙂
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Looks way too small to me.😁
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This might be a good start: Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat Wooden Model Ship Kit & Tools
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The copper leaf itself is very fragile, not much thicker than a layer of paint, but the patina showed no signs of coming off when I buffed it. With something like copper tape, you might have some wiggle room to burnish some of it off, if it is too dark for your taste. It actually ended up a little darker than I planned. I did leave it overnight, but I wish I had of monitored it and checked every hour or so. This was a very small piece, and I did it inside of a zippered sandwich bag with one egg. I was thinking with something like the hull of a ship, I would make a framework to drape plastic over and put my eggs under
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This is the cupola from my Resolution. It started out as copper leaf then treated with the boiled egg method.
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You want quick? Overnight in an enclosure such as a plastic bag with some chopped boiled eggs.
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I look in re-sale shops for dress shirts and dresses with a high thread count. Preferably cotton .
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Which one? Rattlesnake, Fair American, Prince de Neufchatel , Armed Virginia Sloop ?
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I believe the MS cradles are a bit small, but I think the Syren 1:48's might look a bit big. I will PM you later about a solution I have in mind..
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Hey guys, the question was: " ....which have the most detailed build instruction? Can we try to answer that question, instead of launching off into our thoughts on the other pitfalls that a beginner might encounter?
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Vanguard Models Next would be any ModelShipways kit designed by Chuck Passaro as well as any kit from Syren Ship Model Co.
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Forming a rabbet
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If you go the route of replacing the stem and keel, my FET method will work. You can see in my Resolution build where I replaced the stem and keel, but I didn't have the FET, I used an added strip to form the rabbet -
Forming a rabbet
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Dave , after looking at your build log I have to ask, is the stem and keel part of the backbone? If so, my method of using the FET for the rabbet in the stem area probably would not work after all. -
Forming a rabbet
Gregory replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Dave , I actually used the Proxxon FET to form a rabbet on the MS 1:48 longboat, including the stem/bow. I'll have to get back to you later with some pics.
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