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Everything posted by Gregory
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3D orienting of ship blocks in Rhino
Gregory replied to Waldemar's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
That is really great work. Would it be possible for you to make a .pdf available for this image? This would be for my private use. I can PM you if you would prefer to keep it out of the public area I know you have invested a lot of time and resources, and I really appreciate it. Gregory -
What is your reference for the numbers you have? The kit manufacturers typically give a height for the finished model.
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While we're at it, here's my version. The light has 3 intensity settings, and the dimmest is usually adequate for my work. It works for a couple of hours on a charge, and I have two of them, so that one is always charged up. This particular model doesn't seem to be available on Amazon right now, but they have similar ones. The headset is the Carson Pro Series .
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We have a member, Doris who hasn't been active in a while, but has made some incredible card models. Here is where she shows some detail of her cannon making. Click on the arrow in the upper right of the image above to see her method. Make sure you click through her logs to see some incredible work.
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My laser cut planks
Gregory replied to modeller_masa's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Yes, the treenail effect is just maybe 4 pixels in a 600dpi drawing. Just so aspiring laser users don't get confused, the fiber lasers are a different technology than the blue diodes. The cheapest ones are about $1200 and only have a 70mm square work area. Fiber Lasers at Amazon The diode lasers are much better than they were a few years ago. I have seen 40w units available. The basic ones have one diode that has about 5w of power. The 10, 20 and 40w models use multiple diodes focused into a single beam. -
My laser cut planks
Gregory replied to modeller_masa's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Which model fiber laser are you using? I have not seen that configuration at a $500 price point.. Your image looks like a typical blue diode laser. This should catch on as more people start using the laser. I use maple veneer, and have also explored making treenail marks. Also good for shaped margin an nibbed/jogged planks. You are right on about it taking care of the caulking simulation. -
I wasn't thinking so much as duplicating the craftsmanship and/or detail but more in the way of a design concept, which is not that much different from the MS/Campbell drawings. The red drawing is from the Winnie plans reshaped a bit for size. The upper curved panels on the MS drawings do not look homogeneous to me. They don't follow the shape of the bulwarks. And once again there are the windows. It would seem more logical for them to be in the doors.
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I'm finding some inspiration for the quarterdeck bulkhead in Beckmann's Winchelsea build. Link to the relevant content.. Here is a small sample. Click on down through the link above for a lot more detail regarding method. @Dave_E If I'm cluttering up your log too much just let me know and I will delete posts.
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They spent all their money on the elaborate carvings and figurehead.😁
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Bend cast metal parts
Gregory replied to bogeygolpher's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
In addition to boiling water you might add somethin like this to your tool chest. Mini Heat Gun Use with care. It gets very hot. will melt some plastics and will char wood. -
With thread, it's not just the surface.. It penetrates between the fibers and creates a coating that surrounds the fibers whether it bonds to them or not. I was trying to keep it simple, but I realize all plastics are not the same.
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Just to elaborate a bit on what Glenn said, somewhere along the line people got the idea that water-based whatever would not stick to polyester because polyester is essentially plastic, and we all know how water behaves on a plastic surface. However, polyester thread is made up of almost microscopic fibers - think fuzz - and water based whatever will saturate the space between those fibers, dry , and essentially become part of the thread/line made from the thread.
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I have successfully used about 60/40.. ( water 40 )
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A few years ago, most of the kits were coming from Italy, and they were putting together what would sell as decorative mantle pieces. The idea was to put some contrasting varieties in the box so it would look like something with 'wood-appeal' .. They didn't have a market that was making demands. If they had put boxwood and pear in the kits, no one would have bought the higher price, because the market was not the kind of people you find on MSW. There was no MSW or allanyed's to question their purpose or methods.. MS and BlueJacket kits were mostly bass, with the idea that it was going to be painted..
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