Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Good to hear an update. For a first build, making the most of the kit provided parts and finishing the model is an accomplishment a great many kit builders never achieve. Many, if not most kits are sadly lacking in accurate details and realistic scale.. Keep doing what you are doing and you will have a fine model, and will have gained the experience to make your next model even better.- 89 replies
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The only thing you might watch for is the bearding area, and not carry the first planking beyond the bearding line, as it might be difficult if not impossible to get the second planking flush with the stern post and keel in that area.
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It's hard to beat Syren, but the selection can be limited. I really like the hooks, eyebolts, cleats and blocks from another of our sponsors, CraftySailor. Their service has been fast and shipping rates very reasonable. They have a nice 1:64 binnacle and a capstan as well. They also have the Vanguard 1:64 ship's boats..
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Here are some pictures from Cheerful to show how relatively simple making frames ( coamings ) can be. The thickness of the wood would depend on your scale. As for the gratings, John Fox ' method with cardstock might be your best option. Those gratings can be a real challenge without a small table saw. However a hobby saw with the correct kerf, could be an option with an appropriate jig to keep everything square. You need to end up with parts that look like this: There might be several ways to make these. This method by DocBlake is one way While the pieces above an be interleaved, you can use such pieces for every other layer, and lay battens across them. Doc Blake's example is large scale which would be easier than smaller scales..
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Getting rid of CA is not unlike getting rid of paint. It depends on how far it has penetrated the wood. It essentially becomes a layer (thin or otherwise ) of plastic . The thickness will vary depending on the initial application. I go after it with a q-tip and acetone, which dissolves it. Sanding will make it like an application of varnish you are trying to get rid of. In the end, it is not that difficult to hide compared to any other unwanted contamination. The trick is to practice using it, and getting a feel for how much it takes, and avoiding getting it where you don't want it. It's hard to argue with the results when used successfully.. Waiting a few minutes to cure beats waiting overnight.. Winchelsea by G Barlow..
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What's a good kit for learning rigging?
Gregory replied to Mark m's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Not at all.. This was probably a good place to start.. -
What's a good kit for learning rigging?
Gregory replied to Mark m's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Your best resources for that would probably be The Anatomy of The Ship book. The Ships of Christopher Columbus Historic Ship Models might be some help.. Finding downloadable references for the period in question might be a challenge... -
This guy, BenD, bought a Syren Rope Rocket and made a business out of it.. Ropes of Scale One of the MSW sponsors.. A lot of rope making info here: Rope Making
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Another caveat to remember.. Yes, Model Expo will replace parts, but it will not be an improved part. It will be the same part you are having an issue with. If it's a bad casting, it may be a better part If it's something like strip or sheet wood , they will send you extra stuff..
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Here is the best shot I could find of that problem. From a log by Brian Parsons last updated in 2014.
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That answers a question I had about the material of the skeleton. It appears to be basswood. It would be a bit of a pain but maybe worth it to double or triple those bulwark extensions before going very far in the build. Particularly the bulkheads for the quarterdeck, I-M.. If you do any reinforcing for the midship bulkheads you have to take into account where some of the gun and oar ports will be.
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A lot of images going into my " How I want things to look " collection...
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I apologize if I came across as being critical.. You have a great build going that I am following. I was just offering an observation.
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FWIW, The stack on that binnacle does not seem to be documented anywhere, nor does it appear on any contemporary models that I am aware of. What we have seen are vent holes in the side of the cabinet.. A bit of discussion here.
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John McKay's AOTS shows 12. Goodwin also shows 12 on Blandford.
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DEVICE TO FINISH ROPE ENDS TO HANG ON BITTS AND BELAY PINS
Gregory replied to Peter6172's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
While I agree it's a nice jig, something with variable spacing/size would be more useful.. -
Most of the wood in those houses and objects is not on the order of .5 - 1.5mm thick
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If you want to build it, I think $75 would be a fair offer. You might mention the the wood is probably dry and brittle and may need to be replaced to be able to build the kit.
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Many a good model has been built with just the kit parts. No one, me included, didn't know any better. Use the kit parts as a starting place and refine what you can.. Please don't cancel the parade. The rain was just a pop-up thunderstorm..
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Hey Dave, at the risk of raining on your parade: This simplified drawing from Mondfeld shows a basic anchor design for the 18th-19th century. Note the two halves of the stock have a gap when viewed from above. This design seems to be prevalent in multiple sources that I have. Here is a drawing from 1797 found in Lavery's Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War
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The basswood that comes in the kit should work.. There should be a little extra square stock. or use scrap sheet stock from the laser sheets. You might experiment with some dye or stain to get it looking the way you want.
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Those are some generic balusters found in a lot of kits. How do the dimensions match up with the 'scaled' drawings on the plans? You could use some square stock to make something like Ian's pic, without a lot of trouble. I think the Mamoli parts are a fair compromise. Making every detail look like the real thing sort of negates the purpose of building a kit. It's not a realistic goal. If you run short of those balusters, I'm sure I have a few of those in my stash I would be happy to share..
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I love the color of your AYC, prticularly in the 2nd shot.. I have saved that one and it is my standard now.. If my work doesn't look close to that-tear it off and start over..😁 I hope the lighting doesn't change it much.. Of course it may darken some with age, but you are achieving an exceptional finish. Have I misread somewhere that you are using boxwood, and not AYC?
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