Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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Almost negligible, but It can make a difference when you are cutting slots for POB.. -
I bet they would have used them if they had had them... Times change.. No need now to grow your own hemp and cast your own metal because that was the only way 300 years ago.😁
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Take your calipers with you when you buy plywood.. Last time I bought some 3/16 at HD it was closer to 5/32. I tried to point this out to a supervisor/manager and just got a shoulder shrug, and a " That's what they give us. " .
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They spent all their money on the elaborate carvings and figurehead.😁
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That really looks good!
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Possibly relabeled acetone, which would accomplish the same thing.
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Bend cast metal parts
Gregory replied to bogeygolpher's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
In addition to boiling water you might add somethin like this to your tool chest. Mini Heat Gun Use with care. It gets very hot. will melt some plastics and will char wood.
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With thread, it's not just the surface.. It penetrates between the fibers and creates a coating that surrounds the fibers whether it bonds to them or not. I was trying to keep it simple, but I realize all plastics are not the same.
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Just to elaborate a bit on what Glenn said, somewhere along the line people got the idea that water-based whatever would not stick to polyester because polyester is essentially plastic, and we all know how water behaves on a plastic surface. However, polyester thread is made up of almost microscopic fibers - think fuzz - and water based whatever will saturate the space between those fibers, dry , and essentially become part of the thread/line made from the thread.
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I have successfully used about 60/40.. ( water 40 )
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A few years ago, most of the kits were coming from Italy, and they were putting together what would sell as decorative mantle pieces. The idea was to put some contrasting varieties in the box so it would look like something with 'wood-appeal' .. They didn't have a market that was making demands. If they had put boxwood and pear in the kits, no one would have bought the higher price, because the market was not the kind of people you find on MSW. There was no MSW or allanyed's to question their purpose or methods.. MS and BlueJacket kits were mostly bass, with the idea that it was going to be painted..
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That looks a lot like beech to me. Are you buying strips? Maple veneer makes a nice source for planking strips. If you have access to a wood-working store it's a great source for veneer, and you can pick and choose for pieces you like.
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Looking forward to seeing an update.. Your slow and steady approach makes me feel better about all my procrastinations.
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It will if the thread used to make the line has small enough fibers, which is usually the case with 'rope' from a source like Syren.. I wouldn't use CA because of the shine.
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How do I tell what size scale rope should be used?
Gregory replied to JoeMacD's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The size of your scale rope would depend on the scale of your model. If the actual rope was 4 inches in circumference, you would divide that by the scale of your model. There are any number of references for actual sizes. I have Lees masting and rigging, which may or may not be more than you want to spend. Mondfeld's Historic Ship Models has some tables, but I understand there is a calculation error that you have to account for. While most rigging size tables deal with circumference, it might be easier to work with diameter, which is circumference divided by 3.14. A 4 inch circumference rope would be 1.27 inch diameter. This would scale to about .02 inches at 1:64 scale. An anchor cable could be 22in. This would scale to .109 inches at 1:64. The smaller the rope the harder it might be to get a precise scale. Ratlines at 1: 64 would be no bigger than some common sewing thread. This is where you go for something that looks good proportion wise. I'm sure other members will have something to offer. -
Another tip for better measuring. Wrap 10 turns around a dowel then measure and divide by ten.
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At this scale the thread may be a bit overkill. Just a pencil helps define the edge of the planks. Charcoal tends to be messy, and hard to clean up if it ends up on top of the planks.
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I use black card or paper for my straps. I also use it for Pintles and Gudgeons, door hinges and such. I coat it with flat poly or acrylic. A lot easier to work with than metal. I have seen some people use black painters/masking tape, but it has a texture I don't care for.
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Not sure what constitutes a tackle where you are concerned, but I have seen contemporary models where there are blocks for halyards at the deck. Petersson shows tackles on the main and fore lift. He shows the fore & main jeers reaving through sheaves in the bitts. Here is an excerpt from Lee's that describes the jeers/lift rigged to a tackle attached to an eyebolt on deck. Whether his would be correct for the ship in question, I don't know, but it's not as if this type of rig was never used.
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Thanks John. Just to clarify, are those the 1 11/64" long - 29.75 mm barrels? They should be a good fit. I'm going to update my log shortly with my research on the guns. I hope you and others will find it useful. The differences are minor, and I don't want anyone obsessing over it like I did, and going to any expense for new parts.
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John, specifically, which carriage kits do you have from Syren?
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Your pictures of the quoin were not there when I posted, thus the joke..🙂
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Looks way too small to me.😁
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This might be a good start: Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat Wooden Model Ship Kit & Tools
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