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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. Update: I originally tried one of the Atomstack brand 10w machines looking to save quite a bit. but really wasn't happy with the build quality or the performance. However, if you want to stay in a lower price range it shood be adequate. I was able to return it and I bought the Xtool 10w machine, which I upgraded to 20w and have been using for over a year now. The working area is 432 X 406mm but I believe there are bed extensions available. modeller_masa may be able to tell you more about a larger work area. Getting a 40w machine will put you in the $2,000 range, but if that is in your budget, I can only recommend the Xtool brand because I haven't had any experience with other brands. I also recommend you get a Honeycomb worktable and the air-assist feature. Some type of exhaust system is also a must have regardless of the laser power. I also highly recommend Lightburn software to drive the laser. It provides a very powerful and versatile interface. If I can answer any more questions, I will do my best.
  2. I'll get back to you later. Just saw this and will get back to you with particulars. I know it is Xtool brand. I really like Xtool compared to some of the cheaper brands..
  3. I would enjoy seeing something relatively simple like a Longboat. The steps learned could be easily applied to a more elaborate design.
  4. Do you have the plans? Mamoli kits do not have a separate instruction book. All the instructions are written on the plans.
  5. Just thinking out loud, I would think steps on the port side would make sense..😁
  6. Of course not. They wouldn't have been on the actual ship.😁 Very nice work!
  7. I really like the way you removed the foc'sl deck framing. Makes a lot of sense. I will be using that idea..
  8. Agree particularly with number 2. The Minwax & Varathane stains I am familiar have a consistency similar to mineral spirits. Unlike paint, there is no obvious build up on the surface of the wood. How would a layer of anything, measured in microns, appear out of scale?
  9. Yes, but I'm not sure it's necessary depending on how you go about fabricating. I didn't document my method very well, but I could come up with something if you are interested. I will eventually be doing it with my rattlesnake, but can't say how far in the future that might be.
  10. You might consider card. It really lends itself to simple shapes like this. I used black card, but it takes paint very well so the color of the stock is not that important.
  11. I would use sanding dust and satin varnish. White PVA and sanding dust would be a 2nd choice.
  12. You might already have this Bruce, but just in case.. Of course, it will not be a substitute for the actual scantlings.
  13. Hard to call it a rip off when the seller refunded and is shipping another kit.. Appears to be an honest mistake that was quickly corrected.
  14. Here is a contemporary model of a 20 gun ship of 1730. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66398 Another from 1715.. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66367 There seems to be enough variation to not rule out quarter galleries.
  15. Indeed. I think it's really trivial, and a matter of what suits the builder. I'm thinking I will build with no overhang inboard on the quarterdeck, While allowing some on the gun deck.
  16. A little late to the party, but doesn't this indicate there is a little overhang outboard but not inboard? I still would not consider this the final word since this part of the plans is conjecture and not shown in the NMM drawings.
  17. Syren is at the top of my list, but Crafty Sailor has blocks that look a lot like the ones at Model Expo.
  18. What is your goal in staining? Alcohol based leather dyes like Fiebing's stain wood ( and everything else) very well. I would experiment with dilution before using full strength. A little goes a long way. I haven't noticed any raised grain when I have used it.
  19. With extra points if it's banned in California.
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