Gregory

In the 18th century British lexicon, railings at the ends of decks were referred to as 'breastwork'.

When I ordered from Malco in the past, they required a $100 minimum order.  I like their blades.  $100 buys several..

Hi Everyone,  Almost done!  Painted the blue trim/triangles on his sleeves, and some more colors on the hull...... now only the final black paint on the hull and the white feather in his hair remains.
 

 

I think we would nee to see a picture to make an informed response.
 
I googled up quite a few images with " wavertree ship new york ",  and I really didn't see anything that looked out of place.

It depends on which lines they are.
 
 
When it comes to rigging there is really no such thing as "taboo", it is either right or wrong.
 
The rigging is what ships of war and clippers have most in common as far as function goes, and it is not that different.
 
The rigging is part of a machine.  The components have to be in the place they belong in order for the machine to work.
If it is not a working machine, then there could be any number of out of place elements.

While not a museum, the New York Yacht Club has a LOT of schooner models that are exquisite.  It has been some years so things may have changed but I stopped by and told them about a model I was building and asked if I could visit even though I was not a member.  They took me to the room with all the models and left me alone to sketch away.  At that time, no photography was allowed, but I suspect with everyone having a cell phone that may have changed.  Definitely worth a try if schooners and racing yachts are of interest.  I just checked the web and found the following:
The New York Yacht Club offers tours of the Model Room at the New York City club house and the exterior grounds of Harbour Court in Newport, RI are open to the public on the last Tuesday of each month, with the exception of August and December in New York, and January, August and December at Harbour Court.
Allan

I think we would nee to see a picture to make an informed response.
 
I googled up quite a few images with " wavertree ship new york ",  and I really didn't see anything that looked out of place.

Hi Jay, I ordered the Cheerful wood package from Joe at Modeler’s Sawmill. I found that the package was more than enough to complete Cheerful, although even if you add more to your order it will always come in handy for another project. Good luck with your build.

One of people who rigged Wavertree used to be a MSW member.  He went by the name of Jersey City Frankie.  He has not posted for several years but if you are interested you should be able to find a series of his posts about rigging her.  Use the Search function.

The clippers, and Wavertree, were tramps.  Unlike the packets that sailed to England from New York, they didn’t sail on fixed schedules.  When in port they would advertise for cargos and sail when full. Stays in port could be lengthy depending on economic conditions.  It was, therefore, common to strike sails and rigging not required to handle yards below.  Sails and rigging were expensive and subject to damage by the elements.  Labor was cheap.
 
 
Re; The rust bucket comment: Visiting New York sometime between 2015 and 2019 I made a point of visiting South Street Seaport.  To say the least, I was disappointed.  Exhibits in what is supposed to be the museum itself were minimal.  I thought that Wavertree was nicely restored but I don’t recall being able to visit other ships.  Unless something dramatic has happened in the last five years, New York still lacks a first class museum dealing with it’s important maritime heritage.
 
Roger

Thank you guys...we leave tomorrow.
 
Yes I am headed out to the north and south fork of Long Island.   Gonna check out some maritime stuff including some museums that have small boat collections.  Still researching that block island Cowhorn.  There is supposed to be a nice one in the museum there.  I will be online using my phone though....me always needs some MSW time....lol.
 
Planking has started...today.
 
The facstle is completed.  Nothing to really add except that I followed the planking scheme provided on the plans.   You can see that here.  You guys may of course change it.  I cut these from a 3/64" sheet following the plans rather than use strips.  There is quite a pronounced curve to these and they are small enough so it wasnt a chore.  I basically traced the plan sheet.  Tweaked and sanded to suit.  I used a #4H pencil to simulate the caulking between the planks.
 
Progress below.  One plank at a time.  The outermost planks are the hardest but not terrible.
 



 

So back to FreeCAD, it is a very powerful set of tools.  It's a little different but once you get used to the concept of workbenches, you won't go back.  The curves workbench is fantastic for turning 2D Body Plan lines into graceful 3D shapes.  There are excellent tutorials out there.  MangoJelly's, in particular, were extremely helpful to get me to the point where I can loft nice looking hulls with complicated curves.
 
https://www.youtube.com/@MangoJellySolutions
 
 

The forward edges should definitely be rounded, otherwise the movement would be highly restricted. 

Read your post about following Cookster, and his comment about is log being broken, I just want to let you know that I have all of his images that he posted. When I follow a build log dealing with the Constitution, I don't just read it, I copy the log and store it on my computer. BTW, I did the same thing when I was building my Rattlesnake. I don't trust the internet to keep websites forever or maintain original addresses. I've seen websites crash and lose everything (e.g., ModelShipWorld and ModelShipBuilder). So even though Cookster himself seems to have vanished in a puff of smoke and his log is starting to slowly disintegrate (images have disappeared), I have a copy of his log and all of the associated images. Should you need images from his log, just let me know.
 
Jon

New Sphinx kit has been delayed again - now $45.67 is customs duty is due "at delivery". I tried paying UPS on-line but that did not work for some reason so they will attempt delivery again on Monday - I will be sure to stay home Monday!
 
Anyway I have been working Saucy Jack and some of the other pieces of the Sphinx.
 
Here are the upper and lower capstans and the rudder (as far as I can go I think without the hull) joining the other pieces in the "to be installed someday" box.

One of the key things that 3D printing and CAD bring to the table is the ability to generate what is effectively a 'kit' from a set of plans for a ship that no company will ever produce a model of for you to build.
 
Usually we call that scratch-building.  
 
The thing about doing it with 3D CAD though is that you can generate a model...and another model, and another...just by clicking print again.
 
So, you can build yourself a fleet - or you can offer the model for others to build so they can have a model of your favorite ship as well.
 
I have a plan in mind to help the local museum - I am working to do a 3D design of a ship they have in their collection, and I'm hoping to get the design workable for print in a couple of variations.
 
First as a highly detailed model that is a great replica of the ship that I can produce in a suitable scale for floating in a pond myself as RC.
 
Second, as a lower detail model, smaller in size, that can be fairly easily assembled by students doing a summer camp or March break program at the museum.  My hope is to have that 'March break camp' something that the model club can contribute to, and do a presentation with the campers about 3D design, and then have each of them design an 'accessory' for their ship - something like a bollard, an anchor, a funnel, or whatever, using TinkerCAD, and we then print that item for them by the end of the week for them to assemble it onto their individual model boat.
 
That's my concept. 
 
I'll see how that works out. 

It means it qualifies to be sold in the gift shop of a museum..😁
 
Regarding comments on historical accuracy,  if that were something most kit builders were concerned with, most kit manufacturers might as well close up shop.
 
For those who don’t care to lower their standards to build a kit, much less one with some historical inaccuracies, we shouldn’t discourage those who want to enjoy the hobby by building these kits.
 
Thanks for the review Kevin.
 
 

It means it qualifies to be sold in the gift shop of a museum..😁
 
Regarding comments on historical accuracy,  if that were something most kit builders were concerned with, most kit manufacturers might as well close up shop.
 
For those who don’t care to lower their standards to build a kit, much less one with some historical inaccuracies, we shouldn’t discourage those who want to enjoy the hobby by building these kits.
 
Thanks for the review Kevin.
 
 

Channels and Gangways
 
An update as I near the end of chapter 11:

My friend is making a stand for me. He’s an artist, he selected this particular wood piece of Wenge because the model will appear it’s  ‘breaking the water.’  This is not something I’d ever thought of, but pretty cool. The color of the Wenge with its  elm inlay, especially once finish is applied, is a nice accent to the model. Good to have artist friends with big tools.


The channels are complete port and starboard. The stress of cutting away mounting and cutting into friezes to fit the curved ends of the channels is behind me. 
 
I’m happy with the ebony wood dye used on the deadeyes with its result of the boxwood texture showing through. They stand out in their own right and are a nice compliment to the rest of the model.

I have completed the gangways, as did Chuck I elected to position the knees after attaching the long gang board. I was concerned about midshipmen falling overboard but having just received the latest Sea Watch Rodgers collection of 5th rates (given my Not vast nautical knowledge). I saw ropes and posts were mounted along the rail. Not something I’d want seen on our Admiralty board model, but I feel better about the midshipmen now. 

The newel posts and their fancy rail are yet another signature element of the model. For a level fit to match up to the newel post my lower rail is mounted to the breast rail post rather than its rail, plus I like the look. As Chuck notes, getting the post level on multiple planes, especially given the platform follows the sheer and camber of the deck, took some patience and a jig or two.

A major milestone: With the addition of the ladders and installing the elm tree pumps I completed more than a year ago my Winchelsea is complete between the bulwarks (short of my gluing on the remainder of the guns).
 
Work continues. Thanks for stopping by.

It might be useful to set some time aside and read through this topic. This is aimed directly at the sort of questions you ask. 
 
 

I'm glad I'm not become a pest.   At this scale serving will not serve you well. HeeHee.  You will be attempting to cram as much detail into this model...do not try to be the purist....A little can go a long way...and more can actually destroy...because at this scale it all tends to be waaay out of scale.  And if you managed to keep it in scale the detail is too small to be really appreciated.
 
Rob

For a first ship model I would have to recommend the Model Shipways "Shipwright Series" of three models.  This series was designed by renowned ship modeler David Antscherl.  The modeling series begins with a dory followed by a pram which is a little more challenging and ending with a shipjack.  Model Expo has these kits on sale now.  They are also offering the "Shipwright Series" as a combo which includes a basic set of tools, glue and paint.  Once you successfully complete this series, you'll be ready to take on something more challenging.
There are a number of reputable wooden ship manufacturers such as Syren, Vanguard, Bluejacket and Model Shipways.  Be careful of some disreputable manufacturers who use other manufacturer's designs without permission to make their own kits.  Checkout the list of banned manufacturers elsewhere on MSW.
 

 Welcome to Model Ship World and the wonderful hobby of ship modeling.
 
 

New Sphinx kit has been delayed - now due Friday. Will concentrate on Saucy Jack and trying to bring some order out of the disorder before starting the new hull.

It means it qualifies to be sold in the gift shop of a museum..😁
 
Regarding comments on historical accuracy,  if that were something most kit builders were concerned with, most kit manufacturers might as well close up shop.
 
For those who don’t care to lower their standards to build a kit, much less one with some historical inaccuracies, we shouldn’t discourage those who want to enjoy the hobby by building these kits.
 
Thanks for the review Kevin.
 
 

Hello,
I know, it's the Sliding Foot Assembly. But I don't think that that was also used in 1745. Goodwin described it too. If you find it at a model from this period, send me a picture.

It means it qualifies to be sold in the gift shop of a museum..😁
 
Regarding comments on historical accuracy,  if that were something most kit builders were concerned with, most kit manufacturers might as well close up shop.
 
For those who don’t care to lower their standards to build a kit, much less one with some historical inaccuracies, we shouldn’t discourage those who want to enjoy the hobby by building these kits.
 
Thanks for the review Kevin.