shipman

Another name for it in the UK is 'Surgical Spirit'. The pink/blue stuff we call 'Methylated Spirit'. Drinking either is a sure way to go blind. Perhaps that's where the term 'Blind Drunk' comes from?

Victory was re-purposed several times after 'retirement'; mainly as an accommodation ship, also as a prison, a hospital and a prison. Sometime she was rammed by an Ironclad which broke it's tow on it's way to the breakers. Photo's do exist of this incident, but can I find them on the 'net'?

Eberhard, thanks for sorting that out; yes that's certainly a handsome model. As time goes by I'm coming to recognise what a fount of arcane knowledge you are. Always reliably accurate on whatever subject you choose. Thanks again.

Thank you for your info (Ebhard?). Your attachment has been blocked by Firefox as a threat!!!!! There I was, thinking you didn't care LOL.

The shortest answer to your question is, no.

Dr PR, thank you for your explanation. Once you understand this stuff, it's surprising how simple and logical it becomes. Can't remember seeing a snow rigged model.

Forgive me if this topic has been addressed before. Several times I've come across references to a Snow Rigged ship, usually a 2 masted merchant vessel. The significant feature being another, lighter mast directly behind the rear mast. The boom and gaff for the 'lateen' type sail is attached to the lighter mast. What is the why and wherefore with this arrangement please?

Just remembered, bamboo chopsticks are available, some with a square section. They could be converted to spars with a little thought, so the central octagonal section and the tapered outer section can be in one piece. If you can find the correct type, bamboo is a remarkable material.

Come so far and learned so much! The learning will be the value you carry over to your next build. It's a bit late to address the issues with the moulded hull 'planks'; a feature which spoils an otherwise excellent rendition of the ships hull. The simplest way to replace the plastic spars would be to sand bamboo skewers on a flat board, along their length. The octagonal sections could be hand planed or scraped using square section hardwood. end drilled to take the tapered outer sections and glued. Accept a small failure rate:- the materials would be cheap but, it's surprising how quick it is. Again, too late now. Reward yourself with acknowledging what you've achieved with what is a minor masterclass of a model.

Bruma, my confession is this.....I have at least three examples of this kit, plus all the accessories available. I've even made a dedicated build stand. BUT I haven't started it yet!!! I've spent an inordinate amount of time studying the model, photo's of the ship and all the build logs such as yours to see how people resolve what I see as kit issues and historical anachronisms. I can't see a way to depict bulwark details accurately...mainly the freeing ports and the white panels that run along both sides. These details will need addressing right at the beginning of the work. I'm still not happy and until I am, I'm not ready to proceed. I have all the important books and I feel my research has been as thorough as it's possible. I'd like to do justice to the kit and make it as accurate as I can. The ship as she is isn't what it could be; I've found hints that still give me doubts. In the meantime, I've been looking at my shelf of shame. Prominently is the beginnings of my interpretation of the Airfix Bounty which I put a lot of time into some years ago. (The 1:87 scale is very inviting and the hull mouldings compare well to the AOTS book drawings). Again, there's not a lot of real evidence of her actual appearance. So on this one I decided to use a measure of conjecture and artistic licence. For instance, considering the mission she had....to transport live breadfruit seedlings. I decided the converted Captains cabin wouldn't have let enough light in. So I was intending to replace the rear deck grating with a glazed affair much like the skylight on the poop of the Victory. That may very well be wrong but to me at least it's plausible. So that looks like being revived into my winter project (and build log). Ultimately, I may adopt this attitude for the CS kit. Take care and stay well.

Another whirlpool for money. Still I'm interested to see how your project turns out.

AH AARGh! PA? Len, now that's clear, I dread what your shipping costs will be to UK. Depending what they turn out to be, I may have to re-consider my 'order'. The confusion was your location simply stated 'Nottingham'; but I see that has now been revised.

Keith, what a ripping idea. Boris, your boats do appear to be a cut above what I've seen in a long time. Please do indulge us with a short tutorial of your methods. I know I wouldn't be alone in thanking you to take the time if you would be so generous.

2010 Shipwright Annual. ISBN 9781844861088. - $5.00 Len, would you kindly add this to my list please. Looks like you;ve started a real bunfight!

American Heavy Frigates 1794-1826 - ISBN 978-1-84176-630-0 - $5.00 American Light and Medium Frigates 1794-1836. ISBN 978-1-84603-266-0. - $5.00 Ships of the American Revolution and Their Models by Harold Hahn - ISBN 0-87021-653-8 - $12.00 2012 Shipwright Annual. ISBN 9781844861491. - $5.00 Please put these to one side for me Len. GB£ ? I'm UK based so regular postage should do. You could pm me. Cheers matey.

Honestly, from my experience, your photo's don't really show an issue worth worrying about. The grape vine indicates Trumpeter have detail issues somewhere on every kit they produce. From what I understand, THE big problem is the undersize rear funnel, though there are replacements available. A lot depends on what you want to achieve with your Hood. A handsome model can be built with what came in the box. Many of the 'inaccuracies' detailed on the Hood site are there but they are pretty minor. Most people wouldn't even notice.

As plastic models go............that's not the end of the world. By the time you stop spending on this project I'd expect the good fairies would have been and finished it one morning.

I was lucky to see both originals when they were part of the NMM display back in the 80's, they were a delight to behold. These kits capture them to perfection. They leave me breathless.

As usual, my views are a little off-beat. The pre-painted model on page 4(?) to me looks superb. All these red's and blue's are far too bright at this scale. If you must use colour, it would make a welcome change to try a different selection. Can't fault your craftsmanship; an exceptional build.

Is it a stylised ram?

Incredibly transparent metals are real these days. CERN's LHC detectors have huge amounts of the stuff. Windows in modern tanks are made of transparent bulletproof metal......

Bill, you must be the oldest man in the WORLD! Not a bad effort for someone born in 1852. You are excused for the stitching on your sails.

It's amazing how this venerable kit continues to spark peoples enthusiasm. At a guess I reckon it was introduced in 1958. So here's a thought......how many current builders were born before that date and how many were born since? Revell have earned an honourable place in modelling history. Not to be sniffed at.

I just love your little fella 'Jaques' with the dubiously scaled measuring stick. He has biceps bigger than his waist....he must be the French version of 'Popeye'. The real one. I continue to drool at your work, but justify that because it is natural at my age.

I agree with Bob's comments re oil paint. He admits his liking for it, no doubt after long experience, trial and error. My young son got into the ludicrously expensive miniature gaming figures world. The 'Citadel' range of acrylics (which are silly money too) astonished me by their quality. The pigment density is far superior to anything else I've come across (including oils) yet they flow and cover with a brush like magic. They are expensive but there again, most ship models only require a limited palette.