Dan Vadas

Thanks Slog, Greg and CDW .
 
Here's one of the smallest assemblies I've had to make, a Windlass. There are 15 tiny parts in it and it's only 4mm long :

 
I'm not sure what the function of these parts is, it seems to be some kind of covered entryway. I made the actual units some time ago, and now it's time to fit them :

 
It's also time to fit the Bridge :


 
The last major sub-assembly to fit is the aft superstructure :

 
A couple of overall progress pics with the major assemblies fitted. I'm leaving the last three turrets until later as there are a lot of small parts to be made and fitted around them first :


 
  Danny

I've been putting off building the Main Mast until now, because I thought it would be one of the most difficult parts of the build. It turned out to be fairly easy . CA glue was used for all the metal joints. I taped the legs of the mast to a block of MDF for stability while I glued all the other parts to them



 
This part (I don't know what it is, perhaps a "Crow's Nest"?) proved to be the hardest thing to make. There are 6 pieces to it, and it's a multi-angled shape :


 
Now to spray paint the whole thing.
 
  Danny
 

Thanks very much CDW, Pat, Carl and Jan.
 
Jan, it's a little bit smaller than a Tic-Tac . If I had one I'd put it up against it, but I keep eating them - I can't stop at one .
 
BTW - martanek is on the Paper Modellers site. He still has his Tac-Tacs (I'm sure they are plastic ).
 
  Danny

More progress. I've made and fitted the Anchors. These required quite a bit of delicate cutting :


 
The Depth Charge Rack was fairly straight-forward apart from the two small cranes :

 
The Searchlight took me a full day to make, mostly due to the Bracket - gluing it together could only be done one section at a time. The first pic is of the parts needed for it :





 
I also fitted a ladder, the RDF antenna and three railings around the searchlight :


 
The AA Guns and the forward Torpedo Tubes were fitted next :


 
Last I fitted two inclined Ladders and the railing to the aft end of the foredeck. It would have been a lot easier if I had painted the ladders before fitting them :


 
And here's a Progress pic of where I'm up to. The funnel assembly has been permanently fitted :

 
  Danny

Thanks for the kind words Carl, Bob and Jan .
 
The two Motor Launches were a little easier to make, mostly because they have "steel" hulls instead of "clinker" ones and could be touched-up. The design was also a bit easier to work with. Here's a series of pics that follow the construction :







 
The launches completed :

 
I've also made the Depth Charge Launcher. This had a few rather small pieces, the largest tubes (the depth charges) are only 1.6mm diameter :

 
  Danny

Hi,
Now that the dust has settled on the start of a new school year I've managed devote a bit of time again to this project and have made some more progress ......
 
Shaping the fore and aft deadwoods was holding me up a bit as I tried to make sense of the various sectional profile drawings. My inexperience was evident as I tried to juggle the various profiles and much time was spent working through the other build logs in this section. They certainly helped, and then I came across and followed the link that Dan Vad mentioned in a post referring to his HMS Vulture build. This proved to be a great help and I can see myself visiting this regularly as my build continues - thank's Dan!
 
In the end you just have to dive in and have a go...
 

 
Using a combination of thin brass sheet and acrylic templates pinned to the aft deadwood the sides were reduced to the required shape.
 

 
My first attempt at tapering the lower end of the inner post was not as successful as I had hoped so a second had to be made.
 
The rebates were then cut in the stern post with a scalpel and lower area worked to match the ajoining components prior to being glued together.
 
A carving knife proved an effective way to cut the curving rebate in the stem and subsequent shaping of the fore deadwood. I expect there will be a bit more work ahead on these later.
 

 

 
At last we have a keel!
 

 

 

 
... and work begins on the frames ......
 

 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

thx for the likes and comments, another update...really just some pics not included in the last
the completed crows nest still needs paint

the and sanded hull

finished interior bulwarks

 

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

G'day Zappto . Have a look at THIS METHOD that I used on my Norfolk Sloop kit. You can use the screws to hold the ship to your building board and later on to mount to your permanent base or pedestals.
 
Instead of making your own "nuts" like I did you could simply use "normal" ones. I suggest you use Stainless Steel or brass ones to prevent any corrosion.
 
  Danny

G'day Geezer, and a welcome from down south .
 
"Sirius" is a fairly good kit from all accounts, but she may be a bit of a handful to learn planking on. I'd suggest one of Modeller's Shipyard's smaller offerings like the Norfolk Sloop, Port Jackson Schooner or Mary Byrne. In my build log of the Norfolk Sloop (link in my signature) I do a "Plank by Plank" description of how I cut, shaped and laid each one, which may be helpful to you.
 
  Danny

G'day Heinrich .
 
Good to see another Card model builder on this site .
 
I suggest you change the title of this thread to  :  Le Courier by Heinrich der Seefahrer - Shipways - 1:96 scale - CARD  and move it to the "Build Logs for Kits" forum. If you don't know how I can do it for you.
 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Thanks for the advice Pav, but I also agree with Peter. I'm leaving the deck as it is - bad enough now, worse later if I try to fix it .
 
All the extra card has been fitted and faired. I haven't added any extra bracing between large-spaced bulkheads, I'm going to give it a go the way it is and hope for the best .
 
Before fitting any hull skins I need to do some work on the Portholes. I've got the PE portholes from GPM (2.0mm and 1.6mm) which could just be glued to the hull over the printed ones. I've punched them out and glued some thin clear plastic behind to simulate glass. I'll fit the PE after all the hull has been skinned in case some come off when I'm gluing the skins on :


 
Time to glue the first skin. I'm starting with the upper bands rather than the bottom of the hull as directed by the kit. This way worked well on Amatsukaze and I'm doing the same as I think it's a LOT more important to get the detailed upper skins to fit correctly - they all need trimming (1st pic below), and there's nothing dictating exactly how much to take off the lower skins.



 
The sides have a step inward halfway down which needs a narrow horizontal piece. I fitted this first. When fitting the large skin I managed to muck it up a bit, so a little filler and touch-up will be needed. I have to paint the edges of the paper anyway, so it's no big deal :


 
  Danny

Thanks to all of you for the warm welcome. 
I'll start the kit building log when I did some more progress.
 

The three sections of Deck are on and I've finished adding all the extra card to the bulkheads etc, and also added some between the upper, middle and lower "decks" to remove any slight bows between the wider spaced bulkheads as well as stiffening everything up. Now to spend a day or so Fairing everything. I'm not all that happy about the printing on the deck timber, the joins stand out a lot more because the colours of the planks don't match at the joins :
 





 
  Danny

The three sections of Deck are on and I've finished adding all the extra card to the bulkheads etc, and also added some between the upper, middle and lower "decks" to remove any slight bows between the wider spaced bulkheads as well as stiffening everything up. Now to spend a day or so Fairing everything. I'm not all that happy about the printing on the deck timber, the joins stand out a lot more because the colours of the planks don't match at the joins :
 





 
  Danny

G'day Zappto . Have a look at THIS METHOD that I used on my Norfolk Sloop kit. You can use the screws to hold the ship to your building board and later on to mount to your permanent base or pedestals.
 
Instead of making your own "nuts" like I did you could simply use "normal" ones. I suggest you use Stainless Steel or brass ones to prevent any corrosion.
 
  Danny

G'day Heinrich .
 
Good to see another Card model builder on this site .
 
I suggest you change the title of this thread to  :  Le Courier by Heinrich der Seefahrer - Shipways - 1:96 scale - CARD  and move it to the "Build Logs for Kits" forum. If you don't know how I can do it for you.
 
  Danny