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Everything posted by Barbossa
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hello, added the rudder chain and the (false)toggle tacks another extra nice detail is to add a spare dowell alongside the channels. I limited myself to the main channel : the position of the anchors on the fore channels hampered this operation. Building instructions seem not that clear on the matter so I went for a clean solution using some spare parts of previous builds here's part 1 of 2
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Gorgeous work ! Other manufacturors propose the same kit but this is "Premier League" and thus far beyond comparison.
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- halifax
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Nice ship, Robin Yet another fine example that there's so much more than traditional XVII and XVIII century sailing warships on the forum. Keep up the good work, and flush away the Photobucket frustrations with a few fine beers.
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- greek bireme
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Thanks Jason, while we're at it and just a thought : perhaps you may want to fix the rope coils on battens & other "furniture" while fix the latter on the deck ? For reasons related to accessibility I'm considering this option for later builds. Any thoughts on this specific topic are more than welcome.
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Hi, Thanks B.E., Patrick, GMO2,kopeikin, Bob for the nice comments. Adding sails came certainly accross my mind and many members face the same dilemma - sails make your model really complete but hide on the other hand the rigging ( shrouds, ratlines, etc... ) - other MSW-builds already proved me wrong but for myself , I'm a bit reluctant if whether or not the 1/64 scale is appropriated for adding realistic sails (even the furled ones ). This is only my personal opinion but if it were a 1/48 scale ship I would give it a go. This question is quite rightly and I'm curious to read/hear other members experiences/opinions about this matter. Next project ? After a (small) break, different possibilities : - a typical chebec starting from the OCCRE Cazador kit http://www.modelships.de/Schebecke,_arabisch/Gesamtansichten Schebecke.htm - I have HMS Pegasus on the shelf - and perhaps a semi scratch build starting from Boudriot's La Vénus 1782 : the idea is to realise -at first- the hull from paper/card. From the latter I shall learn about the inner structures and allow myself to make (lot's) of mistakes. The wooden hull is to follow. HMS Diana is to feature as a sort of a Benchmark when it comes to detail and the finishing. I already updated most of the plans to a 1/64 scale version.
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Hi, wasn't happy with the rope coils on the central balustrade, so I made it all over again using some kind of jig. I'more happy with the outcome as the rope coils describe the curve I was hoping for. The rigging is almost done : so here's some over all shots. Still the anchors and the 26ft pinnace or longboat to do + some extra rope coils
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Hi Jason, Splendid work on the bits Just a thought on "to rig or not to rig, that's the question" The decision is yours but it's obvious that you succeeded brilliantly in altering lots of features to the hull, the rigging will probably also be subject to improvement. Meaning : as you went already this far, you won't settle for a straight forward built out of the box for rigging matters ( which I was more inclined to do, I admit ). This will of course require a lot of research and trial and error situations, I guess (For myself : the rigging is not my favorite part) On the other hand : If you were to go all the way...what a splendid ship, she would be... My suggestion : why not first complete the rigging on your previous ship. This can only be a positive experience on which you might benefit-presumely- for HMS Jason. Regarding the space issue : family & very close friends are a safe harbor for already completed models. But that is only me speaking.
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When hobby & craftmanship are becoming an art Just outstanding work and inspiring as ever. Sincere congrats
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Just lovely work, Patrick This is becoming better & better The planking is just fantastic. Any painting schemes in the future ?
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- galleon
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Hi Jason, I'll settle for this too. Regarding the paint : I don't know about other MSW-members experience but I'm quite satisfied using Acrylicos Vallejo paints. They offer plenty of ocher combinations If I had to do it all over again, I would have used them for the stern decorations ( instead of the unrealistic gold ) I used A.V. on my bowhead figure. The latter outcomed pretty well. A white primer ( same brand ) is recommendable.
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Hi Bob "moving along a little more quickly than usual" ? You're already working at the speed of light and deliver such a quality that is most comparable with many builds in the scratch building part. The more I follow this build the more I wonder how it is to work with high quality timber ( meaning stuff like boxwood,... ) Keep up the good work.
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- halifax
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Awesome work, Bob You're the captain- of course - but is all this wonderful timber to be covered ?
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Hi Patrick Superb work. The way you tackle the inner structures ( frames..) is just amazing. The pics related to the detail inside clearly show that you are to avoid , what I call " the torsion trap". Meaning - for instance - an ill alignment starting from the forecastle deck compared to the quarterdeck
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Thanks a lot , Don This build ( just like the previous one ) is as clean as can be ! Looking forward to your progress
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Hi Don What a nice model The moreover : an excellent choice as XVI century ships deserve also a place on this forum Regarding the plank bending : XVI century ships have an almost "spheric"bow section by which the planks really tend to go upwards. Did you use stealers ?
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Hello, Running rigging almost done except the tack toggles. For reasons of accessibilty I'd rather move over to the rope coils and belaying pins and take care of the tack toggles later. I found it easier to execute the running rigging and insert the belaying pins afterwards which previously brought me to the following dilemma : increase the diameter of the holes from the pieces that are to receive the belaying pins or decrease the diameter of the part to insert from the belaying pins ? As the pieces that are to receive the belaying pins are made of walnut, finally I decided not to take my chances on this bet as I was a bit anxious to split them. So the only option left was to decrease the diameter of the belaying pins. I admit this is also a risky business as we're talking about very tiny parts. Until now I haven't broken any of them and the stuff will mostly be covered by the rope coils anyway ( I'm such a cheat ) Anyway, here's the actual status - part 1 of 2
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