Barbossa

Thank you, thank you, thank you 👍
 
So no more photos with watermark. I have no idea how to do it without the Samsung logo and otherwise, this build will be a Samsung commercial.
And, i upload from the smartphone to the PC using dropbox. 
For some reason this was no longer possible. After hours of searching, it turned out that dropbox suddenly no longer had access to the photos on the smartphone.
Why?? another IT mystery for me.
But problem solved. 

Meanwhile, the deadeyes for the foremast and the mainmast are ready.  Made them in batches of 10. I had 6 "splitters" but repared them with CA glue.
 
Collored with thinned Tamiya paint and polished with scotchbrite  (48 ready and 2 scrap)

 

 
Thanks for comments, likes and following

Cannon rigging #92 (ish)
 
Sorry Ernie - other duties around the house and garden have limited the time available for more important dockyard work.
 
I'm still not 100% comfortable with my first attempts at rigging the guns so I'm still experimenting. First, I wanted to see if I could incorporate a ring into the 2 mm blocks. There are tried and tested methods for this, but I wasn't sure how practical they would be with such tiny blocks. I started with a small jig consisting of a block of wood with three pins - one 0.5mm diameter to form the ring, and two of 0.3mm to fit the sheave holes. With the block pushed onto the pins the 0.2 mm wire is wrapped once round the pin...
 

 
...then round the block:

 
One end of the wire is wrapped around the other as shown above then cut off as close as possible. The remaining end is formed into a hook with a pair of fine needle-nose pliers and the excess wire snipped off. I was quite pleased with the result:
 

 
Dunking in acetone followed by Brass Black worked well. The wood looked a little dried out, probably due to the acetone, but a dab of matt varnish sorted that:
 

 
For the seizings I decided to use fly fishing thread. The one I like is just 0.04 mm/ 0.0016" - arguably TOO fine at just 2.5 mm/ 0.10" real size, but I'd always rather err on the side of under scale than over scale. Here it is on the bobbin, and being used to seize the breeching:
 

 
I tie the seizings in the normal way then put a tiny dab of the fly tying cement on the knots. Within a minute or two the excess line can be snipped off.
 
Here's the first gun rigged temporarily to see the overall effect:
 

 
I'm still not sure about the side tackles. Apart from anything else, they completely hide the neat little ringbolts I made on the carriage for the breechings. I've seen rigging where much more rope is left between the side tackle blocks, leaving space for more realistic frapping and allowing the whole tackle to hang down and show more of the breeching. Alternatively I could move the rear ringbolt onto one of the carriage steps.  I'll do some more experimentation. 
 
Having said all that, it doesn't look too bad from a distance 😀.
 
Derek 

Thank you very much archjofo and Sea Hoss..
 
Front body wall ..

 
Medical needle 0.7 mm made pins 0.5 mm ..
 

 

 
Stairs worked glued temporarily with glue..
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Indeed, let opponent come
preferably along port and starboard, because maneuvering is not yet possible 
Thanks 
 
Making the triangular deadeyes (Much work, little progress)
To the person who once invented the triangular deadeyes , rounds are much easier to make (I think this advice comes centuries late...)
Make these to scale,   with the grain of the wood in the longitudinal direction is not easy 
Much time has passed to find a way how to build them.
 
Examples are the Vasa and Mary Rose. The triangular deadeyes from this era look quite thin.

 
 
And determine the size.
A surplus of my Heller Soleyl Royal has about the right thickness height and length. The deadeyes (plastic) of Billing's Vasa are clearly too thick.

 
Building a wooden prototype and a mold


First saw wooden beams
 



Sand the wood to size so that it just goes through the mold.


File grooves


cutting this is fairly easy because it is in the same direction as the grain.


 
Sanding to thickness.


8 done 40 more to go.  Then drill the holes. That will also be a challenge.
 
Thanks for following, comments and likes

Thanks for comments and advice.
And the used wood is cherry
 
Something I learned here. Listen to good advice. So first i do a test whether the wood does not split during drilling.
First make an aluminum mold. The plates are glued with CA. (1 a hole was drilled incorrectly)

 
The test (careful drilling of course)

 
Hurray,  they don't split.

 
I set a watermark on my smartphone photos (Backer2020).
Why that thing also put Samsung on it is a mystery to me.
 

Thanks for the comments, G.L. and Guy and to the others for the likes and visits.
 
Some progress on the orlop deck.
 
The only drawing I have showing the configuration of the orlop deck planking is this >
 

 
Every time I had looked at that drawing I didn't understand why these planks were different to those on the gun decks and quarterdeck -- until recently when trawling through some build logs on here.  Then it made sense to me --- a number of the orlop planks are removeable in order to create more access to the hold.  As they're arranged in sections across the ship this was my first attempt >

 
The 3 empty spaces are for these >

 
I don't believe that all of the removeable planks had  lifting rings and only a few would need these rings.  The 'plain' planks could have been lifted once a 'ringed' plank had been lifted.

 
A week or so and about 80% had been done.


 
With the gratings and a few planks lifted out.

 

 
Then the deck was finished. 

 
The gap immediately ahead of the fore grating will later accommodate this >

 
Some of the above photos reveal that the orlop inner hull planking is done and is painted white.  (I believe it was called 'white stuff' in sailing days.)   It seems it was the practice to paint the 'walls' and 'ceilings' of all decks from the orlop upwards with 'white stuff'.  It served to create better visibility down in these rather dark decks and it will help brighten up the inside of this section. 

Thank you Grant and Bob, your interest is much appreciated.
 
Post 21


 
Taking stock


 
I felt this was a good point to review progress thus far.

This is also a good point to set out the remaining deck fittings to ensure there are no unwanted surprises.


5825
I have made a couple of additions to the deck furniture, in the form of Chimneys, to service the steam capstan, and Galley stove.


 
Such pipes are shown on the plans I have seen, and Reaper also has one.

 
 A chimney is easily made, from some 3mm ø aluminium tubing. A smaller second pipe was also fashioned for the galley stove.


 
Because of my modifications to the steering I had to reposition the Mizen boom stop slightly.  

5823
The cover boards for the Fish Hatch have been fitted with ring bolts in preference to the provided items, and only a portion of the cover boards are in place.




5839
The hatch is left partly open to reveal the nets that would usually be kept in that area.

 

5836
The nets were cast over the Starboard side and there should be a net roller running along the hatch coaming to assist the process.

I don’t have sufficient detail of the arrangement to fit one yet, but I am looking.


 
Such boats also carried seven 22’ sweeps stowed on the Foredeck and shipped into crutches socketed into the Timberheads.

I don’t know if I will represent these at present.



5830(2)

5818(2)
 

5819
 

5822
 

5826
 

5829
 
Since I have started researching fishing boats I have been amazed at the sheer hard manual work, hazardous conditions, and danger involved in working these boats. The seamanship required to work the lugger rigs seems extraordinary given the harsh conditions they had to work in.


 
It is hard to believe that contained within the hatch were some 60/70 nets, 60 yards long, and when strung together produced a drift extending some 3300 yards from the boat.


 
 The invention of the steam capstan must have been a very welcome addition to aid the exhausting process of hauling in the nets.


 
 
So much am I enjoying this build, I couldn’t resist doing a follow up of the Zulu.


5843
 Ordered yesterday, arrived this morning; great service Chris.👍


 
Shame to waste all the research I have done, and they will make a fine pair, but I won’t start the Zulu until the Fifie is completed.


 
 
B.E.

01/07/20

 
 
 

And some more updates! Coppering will be a painful process I think

It’s run to the finish’s line now. It’s taken a week or so to get lots of little things done, but this is a great feature on the ship. 
 
the kit only comes with 1 plane so I bought a 6 pack of them, and the upgrade comes with PE for two. 
 
the anchor chains were added and a aftermarket set of anchors which are better than the kit blobs. Tomorrow I’ll rig this crane and do up some rigging for the paravanes, then I can do the individual stanchions 

Thanks everyone for the likes, Keith I have inly used it on the caprails really, I love the sheen that you get at that level of smooth, I know people don't like gloss on models but I think it looks awesome when the light hits jt at the right angle
 
Look who's back on the bench!!

Post 19


 
The Rudder.


 
Chris has created a simplified arrangement that takes out all the fiddliness usually associated with fitting a rudder.


5720
This has tenons on the rudder that slot into mortices on the stern post and hold the rudder in the correct position.

 

Syren mini kit.
 
I decided to fit a slightly more mobile set up using Chuck’s  mini pintles and gudgeons kit.

 

5722
The gudgeons are shaped to suit and fitted to the stern post. I use a length of wire to align the holes for the pintles.

 

5725
 
First trial fit; pins have been inserted into the rudder to represent the pintles.


With the rudder set I can now follow through with the paint lines.

 

5749
I decided to re-paint the lower hull Vallejo Matt Red, Mrs W said she preferred it, and that tipped the balance. On reflection I do think it suits the Pearwood contrast better.

 

5752
At this point I can trial fit the tiller iron on the rudder and the rod connection between rudder and worm drive.


 
The finished version will hopefully be a little more detailed than a length of bent wire.

 

5783
One of the things I like about Chuck’s little rudder fittings kit are the boxwood and fibre straps.


 
So much less fiddly than messing about with brass strip and looks good for scale.


 
I represent the bolt heads with blobs of pva.



5791(2)
The tiller arm now blackened is glued into place on the rudder.

 

5777(2)

5789(2)
There is some remedial cosmetic stuff to do following my modifications, but I’m fairly satisfied with progress to date.


 

 
B.E.


 
29/06/20

 

I have achieved a significant milestone in the fitout, I have installed the quarter davits so finally all the ship's boats can be put in place.
Also, the gangway railings and gun port lids are complete.
Again, there were plenty of alternatives for these details but they were clearly shown on the Admiralty drawings in Lavery and Hunt's great book so confusion was avoided. The only odd thing about this drawing is the two piece gun port lids. This is the only place I have seen this detail and I have installed single piece lids. 
To complete the ships boats the oars need to be made. The rudders will be removed and stored inside the boats and the boats will be lashed into position as one of the last things to do.
Next the anchors and the parts of the running rig that I have left to last and some small items. I'm not too sure what to do about the stern lanterns, they seem to be fitted and removed as needed, sometimes a single central lantern, some time two or even three across the stern. I can't find any in premade kit form and they look very fiddly to make.
Cheers, David.

A little more progress picking away at the standing rigging. My crows now have feet😁.  From what I read in various sources, crows feet at the turn of the 18th century seemed to be somewhat “optional” or at the discretion of the captain or sailing master. I liked what they added to the model so me being the captain instructed my sail master to have them installed. 



 
I enjoyed making these. There is one on each mast. The closeup above is the one on the main mast. 
 
Tom

Just a bit of an update.... one is one of those little things just bug the heck out of you..    The plans show the main mast coat area with eyebolts on gundeck.  It's bugged me since I couldn't figure out how the rigging would reach it.   A bit of research on other sites, shows it needs to be on the weather deck.  Much foul language ensued while fixed it. 
 

 
 
 
 
The major work was adding ribbing.  I just need to add the port sills and sort out the stern and then... sanding.
 

 
 

Hello,
 
Addet all the hatches of the cannon ports 
Building 
 
painted and addet metal pins, with these pins they are glued to the model with CA glue.

 
detailing

 
painted 

 
ropework, step 1

 
step 2,  "fishing" for the wire

 
Step 3, A knot. this way the top part of the rope can be tensioned later.

 
like this

 
Both sides are ready

 
And another error camouflaged 
I forgot the stern chasers  These were apparently very important in attack and defense at this time
2 dummy hatches are the camauflage  🙈🙉🙊

 
Thanks for following 

First attempts at cannon rigging
 
Thanks (?!) everyone for encouraging me to fully rig all Speedy's 14 four-pounders.
 
I wanted to have another go at making my own blocks. However I haven't been able to make anything acceptable at the required size, the smallest I can manage being about 2.75mm. Here it is with a Syren 2.0mm block for comparison:
 

 
Syren blocks aren't available at the moment but I was able to order some from Vanguard and they arrived today. I'm very happy with the quality:
 

 
...nicely shaped, with good grooves for the strop. Here's my first go at adding a strop and hook:
 

 
In both cases I made the hooks from brass wire, using the thinnest I have (0.33mm) for the new Vanguard block. Apart from my difficulty in achieving a consistent shape, I can't get them small enough to look right, so I had a re-think. Eventually I found I could drill a #80 hole in the end of a block, which is just right for the thinner wire. First, I pushed a short length of wire through the top sheave hole to prevent the shaft of the hook from interfering with the rigging line, then drilled through the top of the block until I hit the wire. Keeping the wire in place, I put a minute drop of CA on the hook and inserted the shaft in the block. No-one could have been more surprised than me when the glue held the hook, in what must be a truly tiny amount of wood. I've tried this before with tiny blocks and they've just crumbled under the drill, so it says a lot for the quality of Vanguard's pearwood.
Here's the new hooked block alongside the previous attempts:
 

 
The hook isn't perfect and I should be able to improve it, although at this scale I'm not sure how much it will show.
 
I took Glenn and Blue Ensign's advice and made a little jig from scrap wood to rig the tackle off the model:
 

 
This is just a test for the side tackle so I've not blackened the hooks and I'm just using some spare 0.1mm line. I'll probably dye it a bit darker for the real thing. This is my first go at frapping:
 

 
Could do better, as my school reports often said!
 
However I'm quite pleased with the scale and overall appearance of the tackle, and that's what I was most concerned about. As I said previously, if I couldn't have managed something small enough and neat enough I'd rather just leave the guns un-rigged. 
 
Onwards and upwards then.
 
Derek

The bow light:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

a few steps forward:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stern fillers sanded,  I'll mark the hull for the wales and think about what I going to use for a deck
as I said great weather for sanding 
Cheers 

today's job:

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I added wale because it is flat and the tumble foam is loose.
The metal parts of Lower Teakney and Lower Gallery no longer fit.

 
In the assembly manual, the upper hull  will be added after trimming. It is easier to make it all at once.
The bottom of the ship was painted by mixing white and sail color at a ratio of 50%.

 
Since attaching the upper deck makes it difficult to manufacture, complete all outfitting before attaching.

 
The French ship noticed that the deck was curved according to the hull, but the plate attached to the kit could not reproduce the curve.

 
 

I bought the Harold Hahn book, “The Colonial Schooner” a while back.  This is an excellent book.  It has the plans for the Hannah and a couple other schooners.

Harold Hahn built his models in an admiralty style.  I’m not that good.  
 
I like to build plank on bulkhead.
 
However, the book has hull lines and where there are hull lines, there can be bulkheads easily made.
 
I have discovered that card works beautifully for me.
 
So I am starting with this:

and turning it into this:
The picture is from the US Navy’s History and Heritage Command.
 
I chose the Hannah because I would like to make a relatively quick build.  Schooners have very easy to make rigs and are relatively simple to make.  The Hannah has a very simplistic design with a simple head and no decorations at all.  She will make a nice change of pace from the Victory.
 
I am building in 1/72 scale because it is a very convenient scale that is large enough to get as detailed as you want without having to work at super small scale.  It will also match the Prince de Neufchatel’s scale.

Then I dry brushed gold paint over the muntins or "latticework" of the windows.  I think that the original model that was used to make the molds for the kit had had very fine wire for these muntins.  With my brushing, some gold ended up in the dark areas, so I touched it up with black:
 

It just seemed too black, so I took a clear acrylic medium, mixed some white acrylic paint into it, diluted it, and painted it on.  I had to redo the gold on the muntins after that, but I think it gives more of a "frosted" look to the lites so that one can imagine a reflection or impurity in the glass:
 


 

Yes, Giampiero literally small, but it is a great model.
Congratulazioni!