Captain Poison

Been plugging away at guns, hinges and metal work. Still a long way to go but it’s starting to shape up. Need to add more details to the carriages as well as tackle. I Also got the capstan sitting temporarily, may take a crack at the cherry one and see how it looks but I like the way the AYC one looks so far.
 
JJ

Thank you for the kind words Frank.
 
Made some progress up front, got cheeks and hair brackets completed. This was quite a project and involved many hours of sanding and test fitting. I’m still not happy with the hair bracket joints and may redo them... I’ll sleep on it a little longer.
 
one thing I found to make it a little easier with the frizzies was to glue them on prior to laminating the upper and lower cheeks, the same applies to the hair brackets. Once dry I gently sanded the excess off and then assembled them, this made the seams appear clean and sharp.
 
I still have some clean up work to do as well as finish the stbd side anchor line holes and a little paint touch up. On to guns and tackle next... probably post that update in about 6 months.
 
also made some poor attempts at better photography with the plans as a background white... lol... lots of room for improvement but I clearly see the benefits now!   
 
JJ
 

Hello,
I have not yet come to the assembly of the mizzen topmast preventer stay and main mast preventer stay. I still have to finish these steps and will of course report on them.
 
At the moment I am dealing with the detail clarification for the following stays:
Mizzen topgallant stay and main topgallant stay  - Étai mât de perruche et Étai grand mât de perroquet

The mizzen topgallant stay of La Créole had a diameter of 22 mm, the main topgallant stay 28 mm (recalculated according to G. Lacroix method). 
  
Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime, Annexe Pl. 1

These stays did not have open eyes like the top mast stays (Fig. 1). The collar was spliced directly to the stay (Fig. 2) and served accordingly. Based on the illustration in the atlas (1860), I assume that these stays, also due to their small diameters, were made as hawser laid rope. Unfortunately, I did not find corresponding information in the monograph on La Créole, also not regarding the continuations and fixations on the respective tops. Also on the picture material available to me I cannot see any indications in this respect.
Only to the mizzen topgallant stay I have read in the monograph that this is led down to Mars via a single block, which was attached to the mast cap. About the attachment of the stay again nothing concrete can be taken from the description.
Therefore a few questions arise in this connection, which I try to bring to a clarification.

In addition first the following representation for the overview of these two stays:
 
Source: Monograph "La Creole" by J. Boudriot, p. 129
 
 

 
My research gave, as shown graphically above, from my point of view a conceivable fixing possibility for these stays (numbers of the overview assigned) on the respective crosstrees. In my opinion, the main topgallant stay could be forwarded by means of a collar (number 3) with a thimble. 
To what extent this way of fixing and forwarding the stays for the La Créole is historically correct, I could not find out.
 
Therefore I would be grateful for any hints and your valued opinion. 

See you soon ...
 
 

QG templates lining up.
 

QG dummy windows installed and boxwood transom cap pieces installed.

Hi ☺️
 
 

Good morning.

I'm finally back from New Jersey, where we ironically ran into a hurricane. Nearly six weeks away didn't change my mind about redoing the forward pump handles, so that was the first thing that I did upon returning. Next, I did the aft handles. After those, the elm pumps were next. I was having trouble creating slots in the laser cut brackets for the handles, so I chose to make up my own by laminating three pieces of 1/32" strip and shaping  that assembly appropriately. To complete the chapter seven work, I added the remaining deck beams and their knees.
 
Now, I will wait for Chuck's return and the release of the chapter eight parts and the stove.
 
Bob

Well, what I originally thought would be about a two week break from working on this build turned into two months instead. Now that I have caught up on other things I was finally able to get back to this the past couple weeks and finally finished fairing the hull. While working on the hull I constantly checked to ensure a plank would lay along the bulkheads very nicely. I did this over and over and over. I did it from all directions. I have only built a couple ships to date and this is by far the longest and most detail minded I have ever been on this part of the build. My past efforts, although they turned out okay, definitely highlighted how critical it is to get the fairing as precise as possible. I am not yet certain that I have it exactly as it should be, but I can say with confidence that I did my best with my current skill set.
 
Midship wasn't too difficult. In fact, the stern on this build was not that bad either. It is the bow that concerned me. I was worried I would not get the proper curve in the bow and end up with strange bends and dips in the planking. Or, that I would overwork the bow and end up with more of a point at the front instead of a nice curve. To help with this, I used the laser cut window sill pieces - the ones that were designed for the first space between the stem pieces and the first bulkhead. I would hold the piece in place to check that the curve was coming along properly and would also try laying a plank along the curve. Between the two I thing I may have finally faired the bow area on a ship properly. Guess I will find out soon enough.
 

 
I also had the time to begin installing the sills. I followed the provided advice and used some spare wood I had from another build to lay along the hull. I temporarily tacked these in place with a few copper nails and adjusted as needed until I had a really nice curve from bow to stern. While the temporary battens were in place I check that the tops of them were level between the port and starboard side at each bulkhead. This, along with simply checking with my eyes, helped to ensure both sides were nearly a mirror of each other. Finally, I did a check at the bow to ensure the battens lined up nearly perfectly and then did the same at the stern. And then I marked each bulkhead with a pencil.
 
Installing the sills is going about as smooth as I could hope for, so all that extra effort to get the lines marked was well worth it. Learning a lot on this build already! The port side lower sills are nearly complete and I will tackle the starboard side over the next couple days.
 

Thank you Matt.
Forecastle deck planking.

I've made a little progress since I've been able to work on her some. Feels good to make wood shavings and smell that Alaskan cedar. She's not perfect but I'm happy so far. Made some mistakes but overall I'm pretty happy

That's an excellent work!

That's an excellent work!

That's an excellent work!

That's an excellent work!

I'm tired of sawing and sanding wood. I'll do some outfitting for a change. Start with the metal boiler. As long as the size of the parts and drawings accurately match, will not be affected by the hull deviation. The drawings are 1:36 and must be converted to 1:60(60% of the drawing size) before being made. In order to beautiful and firm, the main body using block copper milling processing, the basic use of riveting parts. The utility model avoids the unsightedness of the welding and the unsteadiness of the adhesive. The precision of machining is required higher.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi Everyone
 
I've now faired the inside of the hull which really does take hours.  My hands and fingers are killing me they are so sore 😂  I wouldn't mind but I was using blocks too!!!  I have learnt not to leave any frame chocks protruding too far into the hull; thats another one for next time too!  I didn't have many places where I needed to remove too much material.  It was more about lining the frames up correctly - please remember though I do have scale on my side as these frames are thick.  How you builders do this at 1/48 scale must make the process so much harder and more precise in the first place.
 
I have to say its a lovely job to do especially when you get down to some finer papers such as 320 and 400 grit.  You can just feel that things are starting to be right - it's hard to explain.  I've stopped at 400 grit as I'm sure that the interior is going to get a bit bashed around before it needs a final finish.
 
I'm not sure what you all use for a final finish but I'm thinking wire wool is probably the way to go when I get around to that stage.
 
The next job is to make the keelson and I will make a start on that tricky piece next weekend.
 
Mark - BTW I think I should say thanks for all of the likes too its quite humbling to be honest.
 

Hi All
 
Thank you @BobG @Hubac's Historian for your nice comments!
 
@Dziadeczek Tomek after looking at my work above... right after when I've posted photos... I came to conclusion it's not how it should be done. This is the time of the life when you know you are doing some stupid thing... but you still carry on 😆😜
I knew it from the beginning... but I guess I've tried to cheat myself 😆
Coils laying down on the deck were quite easy... and let say it was great shortcut... however bit messy I must say.
So right after I've decided to do it right way... and to stop 🤬 around...
 
All belayed ropes are mostly hanged on the pins like they should... so it's more organized.   
It gave me huge hard time... 🥴🤬  nerve wrecking process...  no chance to fit hand between ropes web... but after many insults it's done
 
All coils were prepared off the model... then coils were tied using excess of relevant rope. No glue. Just tight knot. 
Very similar way like shown by @Dziadeczek on the short clip... small loop passed through coil and hanged on the pin.
Why? No idea  Probably just in case if I would like to change some rope one day...  but I'm pretty much sure it won't happen anyway 
 
Here and there some of the coils look little bit messy... but I will arrange them after "hoovering" deck from all kinds of debris.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Hi
 
Another belt of planking has been completed with one final belt ( 5 strakes ) to go, I’m happy with the flow that I have achieved so far using my string layout.
 
Ben
 
 

The saddest thing for me was that while everyone else was making progress in post construction, I was regressing in reconstruction and failure. But I'm glad you guys supported it, especially Greg and Druxey for their timely comments! I learned something. It's been specially modified today. Also feel harmonious and much better-looking!
 

 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 

It really has been a while since I posted. Main reason for that is that my 'interest' to post and to be active on a forum had been substantially reduced some time ago due to things that happened on another forum. There was a member continously giving off on me and my way of working. Always in a sneaky way, never directly but always below the belt. Always in other threads, never in mine. A lot of other members saw it as well and also had problems with him. But as always in this world, moderation can do little if no direct evidence or direct attacks.
So when he even started becoming personal, like commenting on personal circumstances like how ridiculous it was if certain people had or used certain tools, and what sort of people were not belonging in this hobby and doing it all wrong... clearly to be identified that I or my tools were meant, It broke with me.
 
So I drew back from forums at all for some time. 
I am very low profile now, but still active building. I just thought to let you all know.

here some pictures of status from a few weeks ago.
 

 

 

 

Hola, gracias por tus comentarios, pero los bolsillos son iguales en distancia, forma, tamaño y ubicación que el plano, quizás cuando instale el revestimiento de las tracas se verán mejor. Los he comprobado de nuevo y no veo el problema que menciona. Me preocupa. Sobre la escala es la que me acomoda para hacer detalles, no uso kits comerciales. Pronto empezaré con el Rocherfort, francés a 1 / 24

Decided to spend the rainy day working on the Winnie.  This starts Chapter 9.
 
Happily, this is the chapter where we will cover up all remaining traces of the sub structure and bulkheads.  It will hopefully start looking much cleaner very soon.  
 
To begin, the bulwarks along the qdeck were planked at last.   There are two laser cut pieces to make this easier.  They are 3/64" thick. I added the aft section on both sides first.  You should shape it for a perfect fit first.  I made it a tad higher just in case there is some variation model to model.  You also have to notch it over the margin plank along the transom.  Then make life easier for yourself and paint these pieces while its off the model. 
 
Then glue them in position.   Repeat the process with the forward half of the qdeck bulwarks.  You can see the forward section for the port side laying on deck.  That will be added next before moving on to the fcastle.  Dont mind the dust.  I should have given it a blast of "air in a can"  to clean it up before taking the pictures.  Sorry about that.
 

For the fcastle bulwarks there is no need for laser cutting.  Just use a 7/32" wide strip cut to length and pre-bent.  I suppose a 1/4" wide strip would work to and just cut it down to fit.  I pre-bent the strip (3/64" thick) and then clamped it in position.  Then I traced the proper height and trimmed it to fit perfectly in one length.  But before doing so I added one short length against the bollard timber at the bow.  This is a flat piece painted red before gluing it in position.  Then you can use this to help position the long strip for the facstle bulwarks.  
 
I also pre- bent this long piece and once a perfect fit I pre-painted this as well.  Made for a nice clean edge against the deck beams although it wont matter because we will be adding the margin planks at some point soon.
 

It already looks so much nicer that I dont have to look at the bulkeads any more.  But lets keep going.
 
Time to add the caprail.  This will cover all the messy layers and finally close up all the framing so I no longer have to look at it.  So far I have only added the caprail along the waist.  A 5/16" x 3/64" strip was used.   I rounded off the outboard edge on top and bottom.  This edge will look nice this way above the fancy molding.   Then I painted it black while off the model including the inboard and outboard edges.  In fact those were most important.  When glued in position the inboard edge is flush against the bulwarks with no overhang.  The outboard edge should have much of an overhang but look nice being directly above the bright unpainted fancy molding.  
 

 
Here is an over picture of the model.....I will now add the caprail working my way aft first.  Then I will do the fcastle.  These pieces will be laser cut.
 

 
The bulwarks are widest in the waist at 5/16”…give or take.  If you have a need for a wider caprail that would be problematic.  There is nothing worse than an oversized and thick bulwarks.  It just means you didnt fair them down thin enough early in the project.  
 
The bulwarks and caprail are slightly narrower along the drifts and qdeck and the fcastle.  These next pieces will be laser cut so the width of your bulwarks will matter. These pieces will have cut-outs for the timberheads.

Hi 🙂