Captain Poison

Thank you Matt.
Forecastle deck planking.

I've made a little progress since I've been able to work on her some. Feels good to make wood shavings and smell that Alaskan cedar. She's not perfect but I'm happy so far. Made some mistakes but overall I'm pretty happy

That's an excellent work!

That's an excellent work!

That's an excellent work!

That's an excellent work!

I'm tired of sawing and sanding wood. I'll do some outfitting for a change. Start with the metal boiler. As long as the size of the parts and drawings accurately match, will not be affected by the hull deviation. The drawings are 1:36 and must be converted to 1:60(60% of the drawing size) before being made. In order to beautiful and firm, the main body using block copper milling processing, the basic use of riveting parts. The utility model avoids the unsightedness of the welding and the unsteadiness of the adhesive. The precision of machining is required higher.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi Everyone
 
I've now faired the inside of the hull which really does take hours.  My hands and fingers are killing me they are so sore 😂  I wouldn't mind but I was using blocks too!!!  I have learnt not to leave any frame chocks protruding too far into the hull; thats another one for next time too!  I didn't have many places where I needed to remove too much material.  It was more about lining the frames up correctly - please remember though I do have scale on my side as these frames are thick.  How you builders do this at 1/48 scale must make the process so much harder and more precise in the first place.
 
I have to say its a lovely job to do especially when you get down to some finer papers such as 320 and 400 grit.  You can just feel that things are starting to be right - it's hard to explain.  I've stopped at 400 grit as I'm sure that the interior is going to get a bit bashed around before it needs a final finish.
 
I'm not sure what you all use for a final finish but I'm thinking wire wool is probably the way to go when I get around to that stage.
 
The next job is to make the keelson and I will make a start on that tricky piece next weekend.
 
Mark - BTW I think I should say thanks for all of the likes too its quite humbling to be honest.
 

Hi All
 
Thank you @BobG @Hubac's Historian for your nice comments!
 
@Dziadeczek Tomek after looking at my work above... right after when I've posted photos... I came to conclusion it's not how it should be done. This is the time of the life when you know you are doing some stupid thing... but you still carry on 😆😜
I knew it from the beginning... but I guess I've tried to cheat myself 😆
Coils laying down on the deck were quite easy... and let say it was great shortcut... however bit messy I must say.
So right after I've decided to do it right way... and to stop 🤬 around...
 
All belayed ropes are mostly hanged on the pins like they should... so it's more organized.   
It gave me huge hard time... 🥴🤬  nerve wrecking process...  no chance to fit hand between ropes web... but after many insults it's done
 
All coils were prepared off the model... then coils were tied using excess of relevant rope. No glue. Just tight knot. 
Very similar way like shown by @Dziadeczek on the short clip... small loop passed through coil and hanged on the pin.
Why? No idea  Probably just in case if I would like to change some rope one day...  but I'm pretty much sure it won't happen anyway 
 
Here and there some of the coils look little bit messy... but I will arrange them after "hoovering" deck from all kinds of debris.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Hi
 
Another belt of planking has been completed with one final belt ( 5 strakes ) to go, I’m happy with the flow that I have achieved so far using my string layout.
 
Ben
 
 

The saddest thing for me was that while everyone else was making progress in post construction, I was regressing in reconstruction and failure. But I'm glad you guys supported it, especially Greg and Druxey for their timely comments! I learned something. It's been specially modified today. Also feel harmonious and much better-looking!
 

 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 

It really has been a while since I posted. Main reason for that is that my 'interest' to post and to be active on a forum had been substantially reduced some time ago due to things that happened on another forum. There was a member continously giving off on me and my way of working. Always in a sneaky way, never directly but always below the belt. Always in other threads, never in mine. A lot of other members saw it as well and also had problems with him. But as always in this world, moderation can do little if no direct evidence or direct attacks.
So when he even started becoming personal, like commenting on personal circumstances like how ridiculous it was if certain people had or used certain tools, and what sort of people were not belonging in this hobby and doing it all wrong... clearly to be identified that I or my tools were meant, It broke with me.
 
So I drew back from forums at all for some time. 
I am very low profile now, but still active building. I just thought to let you all know.

here some pictures of status from a few weeks ago.
 

 

 

 

Hola, gracias por tus comentarios, pero los bolsillos son iguales en distancia, forma, tamaño y ubicación que el plano, quizás cuando instale el revestimiento de las tracas se verán mejor. Los he comprobado de nuevo y no veo el problema que menciona. Me preocupa. Sobre la escala es la que me acomoda para hacer detalles, no uso kits comerciales. Pronto empezaré con el Rocherfort, francés a 1 / 24

Decided to spend the rainy day working on the Winnie.  This starts Chapter 9.
 
Happily, this is the chapter where we will cover up all remaining traces of the sub structure and bulkheads.  It will hopefully start looking much cleaner very soon.  
 
To begin, the bulwarks along the qdeck were planked at last.   There are two laser cut pieces to make this easier.  They are 3/64" thick. I added the aft section on both sides first.  You should shape it for a perfect fit first.  I made it a tad higher just in case there is some variation model to model.  You also have to notch it over the margin plank along the transom.  Then make life easier for yourself and paint these pieces while its off the model. 
 
Then glue them in position.   Repeat the process with the forward half of the qdeck bulwarks.  You can see the forward section for the port side laying on deck.  That will be added next before moving on to the fcastle.  Dont mind the dust.  I should have given it a blast of "air in a can"  to clean it up before taking the pictures.  Sorry about that.
 

For the fcastle bulwarks there is no need for laser cutting.  Just use a 7/32" wide strip cut to length and pre-bent.  I suppose a 1/4" wide strip would work to and just cut it down to fit.  I pre-bent the strip (3/64" thick) and then clamped it in position.  Then I traced the proper height and trimmed it to fit perfectly in one length.  But before doing so I added one short length against the bollard timber at the bow.  This is a flat piece painted red before gluing it in position.  Then you can use this to help position the long strip for the facstle bulwarks.  
 
I also pre- bent this long piece and once a perfect fit I pre-painted this as well.  Made for a nice clean edge against the deck beams although it wont matter because we will be adding the margin planks at some point soon.
 

It already looks so much nicer that I dont have to look at the bulkeads any more.  But lets keep going.
 
Time to add the caprail.  This will cover all the messy layers and finally close up all the framing so I no longer have to look at it.  So far I have only added the caprail along the waist.  A 5/16" x 3/64" strip was used.   I rounded off the outboard edge on top and bottom.  This edge will look nice this way above the fancy molding.   Then I painted it black while off the model including the inboard and outboard edges.  In fact those were most important.  When glued in position the inboard edge is flush against the bulwarks with no overhang.  The outboard edge should have much of an overhang but look nice being directly above the bright unpainted fancy molding.  
 

 
Here is an over picture of the model.....I will now add the caprail working my way aft first.  Then I will do the fcastle.  These pieces will be laser cut.
 

 
The bulwarks are widest in the waist at 5/16”…give or take.  If you have a need for a wider caprail that would be problematic.  There is nothing worse than an oversized and thick bulwarks.  It just means you didnt fair them down thin enough early in the project.  
 
The bulwarks and caprail are slightly narrower along the drifts and qdeck and the fcastle.  These next pieces will be laser cut so the width of your bulwarks will matter. These pieces will have cut-outs for the timberheads.

Hi 🙂

Hi 🙂 Bread oven, part one brick making with clay, and baked, the bricks are bricked up with cement:  
 

Hi All
 
Things seem to have gone ok with the making of the solid piece that fits under the transom.
 
I did the usual of cutting out templates making sure that the grain was correct before roughly shaping the parts and gluing them together.  The angle between the transom and the last frame is slightly under 90 degrees; I don't know how everyone else takes the angles from either the ship or plans but I use a sliding bevel.  I transferred this angle to a face sander and cut the top edge first but I forgot to take a photo of this step.
 
I then I had to think about how to cut the taper at the rear keeping it square to the face.  In the end I used double sided tape and fixed it to a metal block.  This did the trick nicely and worked out the shape by taking measurements from the plan and scribing it as I went along.  
 
It's made now but I just need to rough shape it a bit first on the outside and also cut the recess on the inside.  
 
Cheers Mark
 
 

Yes CNC and 3d printing has its advantages.  But laser cutting at an advanced level can produce some excellent results with some creativity.  
 
Below is an experiment of mine I would like to eventually translate to cnc.  But as you can see you can achieve shapes and details with a laser cutter that most wouldnt have guessed.  The double blocks below were entirely laser cut. 
 

In fact these are laser cut using just Yellow Cedar.  The color is all the laser char.  A quick dip in Ebony stain and you have some really nice blocks.  The laser cutting was done all four sides.  Pushing the limits of the machine.  Four of these little sticks took about 7 minutes or less of actual laser cutting.  Thats not bad for 24 pretty acceptable double
blocks.
 
i would like to apply this same technique to the Hobby CNC machines out there and see if they cross over.
 

Interesting development...Divers are making a digital map of 17th century warship 'The London'

Hi Everyone
 
I've at last made a start on installing the frames.  I had to make a lot of adjustments to my building frame as I realised that I had adjusted it to follow the line of the whale rather than the line I required.  I just misread the drawing but thats all sorted now.  I've made up lots of chock blocks for between the frames so hopefully it will all go ok.
 
A few pictures below of the first two frames complete with keelson chock with the limber channel and the upper and lower chocks too.  I'm sure that I will need to make some alterations along the way but so far so good.
 
Mark

Hi all - sorry for the lack of updates but I started some decorating at home which has turned into a full blown building job so I'm fitting the ship building in-between.
 
So what have I been doing - well finding more patience than I thought that I would ever have.  
 
I discovered that just because I had made the parts for the transom did not mean that they would all fit perfectly together.  Wow what a challenge this turned into for me!  To get all of the parts to line up so that all of the joints were nice a square and that the shape of the transom was also correct was far more difficult that I thought it would be.  
 
I managed to pretty much ruin the first set of lower transom parts that I made in my efforts to get the fashion pieces to fit correctly.  It then took a week of soaking in IPA to get them unstuck as the joints were tight without the glue.
 
So here is what I learnt - leave the templates on all of the parts after gluing them together so that you have a reference to what you are trying to sand too. Without them I was just sanding blind which just made things worse.  Also leave enough on the parts for the fairing of them - I'm starting to get better at this.
 
Anyway the results are in the pictures below and quite frankly I think that this is about the best I can do at this stage of my ship building experience.  I have also added the small wedges that are required between the wing transom and the fashion pieces.  I hope that it's all ok and if anyone can see something that I need to alter please let me know.  If not the next job is to start installing the frames.  Wow what a few weeks this has been and now I know how Kevin Kenny felt last week!  I have to admit I did enjoy doing it though!!
 
Cheers Mark
 
 

After a few lovely weekends catching up with the family I've at last got around to having a go at the wing transom.  So what did I discover?  Firstly its quite a complicated piece to make and requires a big piece of timber to make it.  Its a shame that about 40% of that piece of wood is turned to sawdust but thats just the way it goes.  It took a lot longer to make than I thought it would due to all of the angles involved.  A few pictures of the process below and for a first attempt I think that it came out ok.
 
 

A few pictures of what is now starting to look like a ship.
 

Just a quick update.  This completes Chapter 8.   The carlings and ledges were added to the deck framing.  There are mostly carlings which run fore and aft between the beams defining the hatch coamings and companionways.  1/8" x 1/8" cedar strips were used.  The long strip was painted red on the sides and bottom like the beams.  Then small lengths were cut and fitted according to the provided templates.  
 
Normally you see these morticed into the beams.  Yes....you can do that if you like.  But as long as they are glued in well and secure that is a lot of work to only be covered completely with deck planking.   I just cut them neatly to fit.   The two ledges on the forecastle were done using 3/32" x 3/32" strips.  In addition, the mizzen mast partner was added which is laser cut for you.
 


We are now 2/3rds of the way through this project.  There will be four more chapters in order to complete the model (not including the barge).  Here is a breakdown of what those last four chapters will entail.
 
chapt 9 - Plank the fcastle and qdeck and remaining bulwarks.  Add the cap rail.   All the remaining coamings and gratings.  A few other minor fittings.
 
Chap 10 - All remaining deck fittings.....  The waist will be started as well with the gangways and stairs.
 
Chap 11 - Return outboard to add the channels and deadeyes....fenders and swivel stocks.  The fancy rails along the sheer of the qdeck and fcastle.  
 
Chapter 12 - Add the 8 pounder guns.   The headrails.  The stern lantern and other remaining fittings.
 
That finishes the hull and then a separate barge will be made so it can be placed on spare topmasts along the waist.
 
Here is a look at the hull with the planking templates (already uploaded here for you).   I will start the next chapter with the margin planks and move on from there.  Think about how much easier the planking will be this time.  The templates are done for you and lining off the hull will be simple.  You just have to fold the templates along the deck beams and use them as a ready-made tick strip.  Easy-Peasy.