Captain Poison

Ciao e grazie a tutti, altre foto, la chiodatura lo eseguita utilizzando uno spicchio di legno di noce.
 
Hello and thanks to everyone, more photos, nailing performed using a slice of walnut wood.
   








Un Saluto

Ciao a tutti, comincio a mettere alcune foto della carpenteria assiale.
Dritto di poppa con la continuazione della chiglia in un pezzo unico, ho ricavato questo particolare vicino ad un nodo per rispettare il più possibile in senso della venatura.
 
Hi everyone, I begin to put some photos of the axial carpentry. Straight aft with the continuation of the keel in a single piece, I obtained this detail near a knot to respect as much as possible in the direction of grain.
 
Thanks Dirk





Un Salutone

Hammock crane netting completed....
Masts are now ready for paint.... Now working on the fighting tops.
Needless to say I am pretty excited about finally getting to this point in progress.

You should also take into account the type of ship, for a merchant ship might have them below, a warrior wouldn't, another aspect to conside are the circumstances a ship sails under (is that English?), entering pirated territory, in war with another "sailing power", etc

The first illustration shows the cannon in battery or battle, second in peacetime or travel and the third trips in severe storms.
If you decide on the second option, you should keep in mind that you will lose space on the deck, making it more difficult to work with details.

The first illustration shows the cannon in battery or battle, second in peacetime or travel and the third trips in severe storms.
If you decide on the second option, you should keep in mind that you will lose space on the deck, making it more difficult to work with details.

The first illustration shows the cannon in battery or battle, second in peacetime or travel and the third trips in severe storms.
If you decide on the second option, you should keep in mind that you will lose space on the deck, making it more difficult to work with details.

Bellona begins to take shape....slowly but surely.....only been five years to this stage...……..on and off.....softly softly catchy monkey.

Inhaul tackle would just get in the way.  If needed, one or both can usually be unhooked pretty quicked from the outhauls and used.  Some ships did have inhauls hanging about on the bulkheads or overhead.   From my view, the more "stuff" on the gun deck, the worse it is for those crewing the guns.   Pretty chaotic during a battle with the 7 to 10 men per gun, powder monkeys, and the equipment for serving the guns so the less laying on the deck, the better.
 
I good example if you wish to see the chaos is to go look at Dafi's log for his HMS Victory kit (towards the end) and you'll get a good visual of how crowded things were.

I have a handful of pics of the Constitution's carronades. Maybe they'll help?

1:64 Revenge 1577 – Elizabethan Race Built Galleon
Amati/Victory Models
Catalogue # A1300/08
 
 

 
The Elizabethan Navy Royal warship Revenge was built at Deptford and launched in 1577. Revenge was a new type of warship, a ‘Race Built Galleon’. She was built following the direct ion of Sir John Hawkins and supervised, it is thought, by the master shipwright, Matthew Baker. Revenge was about 500 tonnes and carried a crew of around 250 men. Contrary to popular belief, the new race-built galleons were not dwarfed by the Spanish galleons but were of equal or sometimes larger size. It is very easy to see the lines of Revenge as a precursor to the Prince Royal of 1610, the Sovereign of the Seas of 1637, or even the Prince of 1670.

The armament of ships of this period varied greatly; guns might be added, removed or changed for many different types of reasons. Revenge was particularly heavily-armed during her last cruise. On this, she carried 20 heavy demi-cannon, culverins and demi-culverins on her gun deck, where the sailors slept. On her upper decks were more demi-culverins, sakers, and a variety of light weapons, including swivel-mounted breech-loaders, called ‘fowlers’ or ‘falcons’. She was considered the best all-round warship in the fleet, and in 1588 she served as the flagship of Sir Francis Drake, and was involved heavily throughout the Armada campaign. In 1591, Revenge and her captain, Sir Richard Grenville, both earned their place in history when the Revenge was overtaken by a Spanish fleet off the Azores. Sir Richard Grenville fought the Spanish fleet for 16 hours, crippling and sinking many Spanish ships before being forced to surrender. 
 
The kit
Revenge 1577 is an Amati/Victory Models joint venture, as was the HMS Vanguard 1787 that I reviewed recently. However, this particular kit was only released in 2015, having been designed by Chris Watton. Like Vanguard, Revenge is packaged into the same monster-sized box so will look pretty imposing when it arrives, plus it will really please your postman who will have to bring it to your door!


If you are remotely interested in this particular kit, you will have doubtless headed to Amati’s website for information on this release. That is given as thus:
 
20 sheets of plans 96 pages full colour building manual with step by step instructions Laser cut plywood, hardwood and MDF Double planked hull Highly detailed photoetched brass parts Precious paper decorations Brass culverins and burnished metal casted cannons  
…now it’s time to look deeper at this kit. 
 
Amati’s artwork for the box is perhaps a little more restrained than that of Vanguard, but still looks equally as impressive, with images of the completed model on the sides of the box. It’s also a fairly weighty box too. When you lift off the lid, you’ll note that the lid is merely decorative, with a single-piece rigid corrugated card box underneath. The lid is secured via large tabs and lifts up to reveal contents. The box is designed to hold large weights within and is very robust. Inside, we have several packets of laser-cut MDF, ply and walnut, a heavy pack with 20 plan sheets, a full-colour perfect-bound instruction manual, bundles of strip wood and dowel, printed flag set, and three large boxes of fittings/components. Everything is packed so as to minimise any movement of items within, and indeed, my sample looked like it had just been packed at the factory.



Opening the first components box, we see a pack of sail cloth, just in case you wish to fit them to your model. I know the convention is to leave sails off, but at lease the option is provided for you here. The material is very pale and would benefit from some ageing using whatever your preferred method. 





Two thick clear bags are now seen, and these include parts for the cannon, in two sizes. The main bags themselves contain some beautiful cast guns with decoration on them, and these have an antiqued finish. I would personally paint these in iron, and the embellishments should look excellent if you then buff them up. Unlike Vanguard, this kit provides wooden gun carriages, machined as a single piece. Again, I am more than happy with this inclusion, and they appear to be walnut. A long piece of thin, narrow copper sheet is included to make the straps from. Two further packs include the eyelets, plus wooden wheels and axles. Very happy with those.

Underneath these bags lie a few clear sleeves of photo-etch parts. Here you’ll find parts for the chain plates and for deadeye securing, doors, grates (maybe they were cast iron on these ships?), and also the Royal crest that adorns the transom. This is built up from two layers of PE and will require some painting. Two name plates are also supplied for the base. You will need to paint the lower relief and then drawn the part over fine abrasive paper to remove anything on the upper relief. 






The second box contains rope, rigging cord, anchor set, culverins, pre-shaped rudder hinges, brass pedestals to mount the model to the base, brass pins, copper eyelets, etc.






Our last box has more goodies for the rigging, such as various-sized deadeyes, blocks and belaying pins etc. You will also find here some brass wire, cast figurehead ornamentation, barrels, stair kit, and parrel beads. All components are securely bagged within their own compartments. 






Amati include some nice timbers in their releases, and here we have bundles of strip wood for the double planked hull (lime for first plank), deck etc. The deck planking actually has a paper identifying tag. Dowel is of walnut, and again, quality is excellent.



A single sheet of laser-cut ply contains the channels and rear gallery doors etc, and a further three sheets of ply are taken over with more channels, facings for the cabin access bulkhead, and the unusual Tudor circular mast-tops.


Two small sheets of wood (not ply) contain rudder and windlass parts, chain knees, and the lower keel. All parts are finely cut and will of course require any charring to be removed, although this is a fairly quick job. 


Two reasonably large sheets of ply contain the beak grate platform, transom, and more bulkhead walls with pre-cut windows and doors. These will of course be individually planked, and various timber fittings and rails added to them. Smaller parts can be found here too, such as cannon shot garlands and rigging cleats.

A further two thick ply sheets hold parts for the various decks, with the exception for the lowest main deck.

The largest ply sheets are fairly thin and for good reason, as they contain the upper bulwarks and sides with the gun port positions pre-cut. These will need to conform to the concave curvature of the hull at that point, hence the thinness of them. They are also joined by an interlocking pattern, so you achieve the correct placement of them.

More laser-cut ply here, with garlands, rudder and forward bow keel section etc.

Five MDF sheets contain all main constructional components, such as the false keel, bulkheads, lowest main deck, deck beams etc. Whilst the curved sides of the bulkheads look very fragile, several builds here on MSW show that there shouldn’t be any real concern as long as you exercise some care and attention.





You will doubtless have noticed that instead of the carved embellishments we see on later and Spanish vessels etc, this Tudor warship has coloured panels along the outer bulwarks etc. Thankfully, you won’t need to paint these at all as they are provided as pre-printed items. Now, the paper they are printed on is heavier than writing paper and is of a type which means that the printing won’t fade. I’m presuming it’s all acid-free paper etc too. Printing is super-high quality and against a wooden texture background for a reason I can’t fathom. Still, these look amazing when added and really bring the vessel to life. All paper parts are numbered, and sections of the sheet listed as for right/left side.

There are 20 sheets of plans for this model, but as well as parts maps which cover several pages, the remainder generally looks to contain information for masting and rigging the ship, plus adding the sails, if you wish. There are other illustrations of the model too, but the hull and fitting out is mostly done using the instruction manual.

When it comes to instruction manuals, Amati really do go to town. Their latest releases, such as the Orient Express Sleeping Car, contain glossy, full-colour photographic instruction booklets with clear English text (Italian also shown). Each stage of the build is clearly shown, and nothing should be ambiguous with this particular presentation. 




Lastly, unlike most model kits, this one does include a base, as previously mentioned. This is machined from MDF and will need sealing and rubbing back before painting. The edges of this are profiled too. With the brass pedestals and name plates, this should look very nice when complete.


 
Conclusion
This model was released in 2015 and comes from the stable of those designed by Chris Watton. Unlike his Nelson’s-era kits, this little gem doesn’t seem to get the recognition is deserves, although as I say, we do have some logs of the build here on MSW. Tudor warships, for me, really are beautiful in their style and execution. I’m a big fan of the Mary Rose (for which I also have a kit), but this particular vessel is more ornate than the Mary Rose and has the galleon-style features that we expect from a ship of this period. Timber quality is excellent, as are the various fittings, and of course, the instructions means that you shouldn’t go wrong during your build. The pre-cut gun ports and jigsaw bulwarks will also ensure a trouble-free project. Cornwall Model Boats currently lists this model for £364.99, and I think that represents really good value for money for a ship of this size (Length: 885mm, Width: 380mm, Height: 655mm)
 
My sincere thanks to Amati for sending out this kit for review here on Model Ship World. To purchase, head over to your favourite Amati-stockist of online retailer)
 
 

 
 

Hi 

Good morning

Hello,

meanwhile, I have started with the construction of the model buoys.
The brass metal bands are 0.6mm wide and 0.2mm thick.
Here are some pictures:

Hello dear friends,
thank you very much for your comments, opinions and "likes", that is a great pleasure for me and also a motivation to other work. I do appreciate your support a lot.
The sculpture is already placed on the bow of RK and today I have finished other sculptures and decoration according to Vale´s painting. It is not finished yet, I will fill the inner space (between knights) to match it to museum models from this period.
 
 


 
Best regards, 
Doris
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you, Karl, I am pleased you like my work.
 
***************************

Well, I modified and improved the statue of horse (head, neck and other details). I must say, I am much more satisfied with the result now.
 

I am very grateful you help me find better ways for better and more realistic results.
 

Kind regards,
Doris

I have also tried to make a grating (it is made from longitudinal wooden laths - they were also used on English ships from that period), but I do not have any accurate plans or images that could help me with a realistic appearance. Now I'm thinking about design of seats of ease, I have several options but I am not sure, which of them is suitable for Royal Katherine from 1670... If you have historically more accurate information, I will be very grateful for your help.
 

 
Best regards,
Doris

Clove hitch, clove hitch, clove hitch, clove hitch, clove hitch.............clove hitch, clove hitch, clove hitch, clove hitch, clove hitch.................
 
Jesse
 

Thank you, Harley!
 
I probably used the word "cross-spall" loosely in that post. I used a flat piece of wood clamped across the top of the hance pieces to make sure that the top edge was flat across the hull.
 
On Hayling, I used a cross-spall or batten strip to insure that the frames were parallel across their tops. I tack glued the strip at the height of the top timbers. I set the frame when both sides were the same in vertical measurement to the top of the batten. There are other ways to do this when using a cross-spall, but I found that this way worked for me.

Mike

Carl, Pat, John, Joe, Druxey and Denis. Thanks for the supportive comments. today I finished painting the funnels.
 

 

 

 
and the last one in natural daylight.
 

 
Now the real work begins with the replacement of the funnel stays.
 
But for now I'm off to the lake to do a little sailing and Rest & Relaxation.
 
Michael

Thanks all for the thoughts on the primer.
 
A few pictures of the progress  to date. I peeled the masking off the funnels and will let the paint cure for a few days before tackling the tops of the funnels. 
 

 
In the meantime I have put the portholes back into the black part of the hull and am working on the little bits along the top edges.
 

 
Bit of a long shot to see the overall effect.
 

 
Back to working on tiny eyebolts and stuff for the cable stays.
 
Michael

Michael,
A number of years ago I worked on a water damaged builders model of the Carmania. Upon close inspection of the name plate I could see where a larger nameplate was there before. Those faint impressions revealed the name; Royal George. 

Hi Michael, Yes, this was the TEV Princess Marguerite. The restoration required taking nearly all the super structure off and start from there. It was an unfinished model to begin with so it made that part easier. It had no details like stanchions, railings, rigging and anchors etc. plus the davits and lifeboats needed overhauling. The fenestration needed framing and all areas of the hull and decks required repainting and refinishing. The model was 5' 6'' in length and built with yellow cedar strip on frame and considered a primitive, although a high end primitive. The chap who originally built it was an engineer on the original Princess Marguerite that was torpedoed off Malta in the 2nd WW and was a chief engineer on the Marguerite II.

Hello,

it's always a great pleasure for me to receive such a positive response, for actually a tiny detail.
For the nice comments I would like to say thank you very much, also for the LIKES.
 
Here it continues with another piece of equipment:
Bouée d'ancre (Anchor buoy)
For the execution of the anchor buoys for my French Corvette, I originally assumed that these were customary around 1800, also made of cork discs (2.5 - 3 cm thick). Therefore, my assumption that the drawing to anchor buoy of J. Boudriot from the monograph to La Créole is rather schematic to understand, as well as the buoy on the Parisian model.
 
   
Source: Monograph La Créole
 

Source: Monograph Original Model

However, the buoys made of cork disks have uniform structures, contrary to the presentation of J. Boudriot; These remind me more of bands or rings. Thus I tried to get even more information for the production of the buoys.

 
Source: Seventy-Four-Gun-Ship Vol. 2, J. Boudriot
 

Source: Royal Museums Greenwich

In Franz Ulffer's handbook of seamanship, a buoy with banding is shown. In addition, subdivisions can be seen in the longitudinal direction.
 

Source: Franz Ulffers, Handbook of Seamanship 1872
 
Consequently, I tried again to study the relevant passages in the monograph in more detail.
Accordingly, Boudriot describes the buoys in such a way that they consist of four light wood parts, which are held together with a banding. From what these bands should have passed, I could not find out so far. However, it is obvious that they may have been very thin iron bands.
In order to get clarity to the implementation of the buoys in the model scale 1:48, I must probably get some information.
Maybe someone of you can contribute to this?

Sequel follows …

I think she will be a pretty longboat.  If you recall,  there will be two options for assembly of the three keel parts.  The simpler version has the parts simply butt together and that is fine.  But for those who want to try a bit more ambitious joint, there will be some laser cut parts prepared with the beginnings of some lap joints.
 
I Have not removed any laser char from these pieces before "carving" and completing the lap joints.  In the photo below you can two of each part.  One shows the lap joint as prepared by the laser cutter.  The laser can not etch deep enough to complete the lap joint.  But you have the area laid out with precision so you only need to make it deeper.  You can remove the material until it is half the thickness on each side of the lap joint.  There are multiple ways you can do this depending on your skill level and what tools you have.  You could use a sherline mill for example.  In my case however,  I opted for the cheap yet effective sharp #11 blade.  I slowly sliced off little shavings until it was close to the correct depth.  Then I used a sanding stick to clean it up.

Periodically, I stopped shaving and slicing to check how the lap joints fit together.  The two photos below show the two lap joints test fit together.  Just a little more to do and clean up and I have it.  One thing I would caution you on is not to rush it.  Dont get "close enough" and then think you can sand the outsides flush after you glue them together.  This would be very bad.  You would see the weird twisted shape that would develop and the other slotted keel parts wouldnt fit onto it properly and that error of impatience would snowball as your project moves forward.  Keep in mind that these are extreme close-ups.....you can really see the wood grain.  But once the finish is applied....that will disappear.  I will take photos again once the remaining pieces are added and the bolts are added.  ut after the glue dries on these three parts,  I will sand the laser char from the edges and clean it up.
 


 
and once again, here is a comparison of the two options for assembling the three keel sections.  The slotted parts will be added as soon as I clean it all  up.  You might also notice my change to the stern post so the model will use the more historically accurate method to attach the rudder.  The older photo is below and those changes arent shown.