Captain Poison

Ok, she is half dressed now. I left stern for the last part.
little messed up those frezies at the bow though...and some moldings are little wobbly, but anyway...here it goes...thanks for any comment criticism...etc...
 

To PeteB: I used the black translucent paper for the caulking.
The last stem decorations are added. All carvings are made with CNC milling maschine with small manual corrections.

Good moring folks.
I halted  any progressing on chapter 3, and focused on curing the blotches on hull....they stepped away plain ugly.  I spent a week on it... I possibly made few mistakes after 220 sanding mostly not sanding hull perfectly with few places leaving glue so varnish didnt apply evenly and not having proper brush and working with clothes from the start I happen to blotch specially bow part....Lime or basswood does not particularly like staining - and I am not fan of any commercial available stain product also not the shades or outcomes it produces. I was quite satisfied but bow is a critical part that I was not able to run off of blotches. And I cannot live with that awfulness on hull. Unfortunately I dont know product that would even out blotches if someone has experiences I would be happy if you can share those...the point of multiplying darker and darker coats will result in just darkening blotches and at the end mess will multiply. So i had to sand off....completely. here is the outcome Im defintiely more happy  / . It  alsways goes like this. Eye forgives a lot. Than take camera and pic and look. if it looks OK just be sure its not OK and try harder and third time you take pics ....it will be OK. There is no blotch I can see by eyes, but camera can see it. I consider coloring wood one of a hardest part of woodcraft, but i always listen to urge to experiment. according to slogan - best learn mistake = own one. I m sure  you would agree that was necessary to correct those. These are pics before and after correction. v.  
 

 
 

Thank you JJ and Rusty and for all the likes.
 
I have finished planking the hull of W2 and it seems a good time to take stock. W2 is certainly a significant improvement on W1. That is mostly down to (a) much more accurate cutting and fitting of the bulkheads and frame (b) a better understanding of the way the model goes together and (c) more experience. But I am not completely happy.
 
Here are my thoughts so far:
1.If I lived in the USA I would not hesitate to buy the Syren bulkhead set but the cost, here in the UK , with shipping, import duty, VAT and handling fees is prohibitive. It is clear that accurate cutting, especially of the slots in the bulkheads is vital. Any inaccuracy in the slots in the main frame results, I think, only in the bulkheads leaning either forward or back and that is easily picked up and corrected at the gluing up stage. Any inaccuracy in the slots in the bulkheads, either cutting or filing the slots to get a snug fit, results in leaning side to side that is much more difficult to spot and correct.
2.On W1 I filled the spaces between the bulkheads with balsa and then skimmed the entire hull with filler. In effect I double planked W1. It may look a bit amateurish but, the many faults with planking on W1 there are no dips or high spots. I single planked W2 and rather regret doing so. There are dips and high spots. No doubt if I were better (not more careful – I took a lot of care) at bevelling I would have achieved a better outcome.
3.If I were to build W3 - and I am seriously thinking about it – I would not only double plank it as I did W1 but also line it out (as  Ben/Trussben  has done). It looks like a lot of work but I am sure it is worth it.
4.I I am not convinced about the white painted hull on W2. I did it, frankly, because the planking was not up to scratch. So far it has only had two coats of paint. I will give it a good sanding and a few more coats and see what I think. I don't dislike it: the real problem is that I know why I did it: to hide my son calls one of those " only you know it is there, dad" problems but a real problem nevertheless
5. Everything needs a jolly good cleanup and some paint and varnish and then I will see what I think. Just at the moment I can't shrug off, when I look at the superb parts to come in chapter 5 and, no doubt, subsequent chapters, the feeling that if I brought together the best of W1 and W2 I would have a pretty good foundation for going forward. W3 is therefore quite tempting.
 
 
The pictures below are W1.
 

 
These are W2
 

While there was still easy access to the upper gun deck, I went ahead and put in the shot garlands. That was fun. 😳
Now I have the quarter deck beams shaped and fitted. I'm going to hold off on gluing them in. I feel like I'm forgetting something.  Anyone want to give 2 cents? Please, any advise is welcome. Thanks,  Robert.

Post 50: Constructing the Mainmast
 
All the deck features are now complete and it is time to start on making the main mast.
 

 
 

 
The mast itself was made from 13/32 square boxwood.   I decided that it would be easier to establish the square section at the head of the mast before rounding it.
 

 

 
Once this was done I first planed the edges to form a hexagon using the 710 7 rule and then turned the lower section on my home made lathe powered by  a hand drill as described earlier.
 

 
The next task was the curved cross pieces for the cross trees. I cut these using my Knew Concepts jewelers saw.
These saws are a joy to use.  The lever system ensures that the blade has the same tension every time and I find I can cut really close to the line
.
 
 

 
They were then sanded to shape  using sanding sticks and files
 

 
The slots in the linking pieces were cut on the mill and the unit put together.
 

 
The mast cap was simply made from 5/32 sheet with two round holes drilled at the appropriate distances and one of the squared with file to take the square tennon at the top of the mast.
 
The boom support ring and the mast hoops were fabricated on the mill using the rotating head as described earlier for the mast coat.
 

 

 
Cleats from Syren were sanded to shape and added below the boom ring
 

 
The cheeks were fabricated from 3/54 sheet and the metal bands simulated with black pin-striping tape
 

 
 
John
 
 
 

Although it is a headache for me to see how you work on this scale, I must say that it is an excellent construction!

Hi Alex,  Somewhere in this log I haven't found your section on how you built the Captain's cabin floor. How did you do that amazing work? 

Hi,
 
the planksheer and timber heads are now done, working further on open rail. the images show it
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Regards
 
Alex

Alright I have a small update finally! Lol
got all my super small almost impossible To work with, LED’s installed and wired, I’m going to run a micro plug through the bottom of the keel that will meet the other end on the stand, powering all the lights with a 9vdc source. It will be impossible to see unless you turn her over.
 
i finally thought of a way to make a scale lantern out of a kids juice box straw, a bunch of reject Boxwood columns And some copper foil. This is the first of many so I shoved it down in the hold In hopes of the rest turning out much better. Once the electrical connection is finished through the keel and the hold lights are complete I will resume progress on chapter 4!!
JJ
 

Here we are back again after knee surgery. This will be the final post for this build as the model is now in my study in its final position.
 
Making the internal fittings and fixtures:
 

 
The anchor and its rope and stowage.
 

 
Two buckets made by parting a solid barrel and turning out a recess and adding a lid to one. This is not the LA method.
 

 
The gun serving tools. There are also two smaller versions for the small cannons.
 

 
One of six oars.
 

 
General view of some of the internal kit.
 

 
Milling the cannon ball tray. I thought I would try this rather than making a framed tray. The "milling machine" is a Dremel drill and stand above a Proxxon X-Y table. There is so much "slop" in this device that I hesitate to call it a milling machine but, with care, a result can be achieved. I must improve on this aspect of my tooling!
 

 
The completed tray and some buckets with contents.
 

 

 

 
The model on its display base. I have not mounted the vessel vertically but allowed it to come to rest on its port side skid.....it is on the beach.
 
The profile on the base was made using my old and trusted Wadkins Handy Trimmer. I reckon I have had this for about 40 years. They were sold as laminate trimmers and came with a selection of jigs for that purpose. I have made lots of "special" and "one off" bases to enable various routing tasks to be performed. The unit is small and can easily be use one handed yet it is powerful enough to take most things in its stride. I reckon it will outlive me!
 
The following images show the various internal fittings in situ:
 

 

 

 
Thats it folks! Done and dusted. I am reasonably pleased with the result and my decision to make this model as a hard working boat. I could have gone further with the "distressing" work and I will once I have got to grips with weathering techniques and materials.....and that is an art within an art.
 

 
I have greatly enjoyed this build with the possible exception of triple planking. I found the kit to be pretty good. The instructions were not great but the pictures told most of the story. The materials were ok and mostly sufficient with the exception of the sail cloth which was woefully short. To my mind this is a good kit to experiment with.The scale is large enough to encourage an individual approach rather than a slavish adherence to the build notes. I recommend it as a very interesting project.
 
Mikeaidah. 11th July 2014.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back again at last but with a good deal of progress to log.
 
I have just finished repairing this build log and my HMS Surprise log and I would like it known that i would prefer not to have to do that again! A complete pain in the fundament!
 
The following images will illustrate progress on general hull fittings, mounting the large cannon in it's final position, hanging the rudder and  making the tiller and rigging it.
 
Hull fittings…..
 

 

 

 

 
Tiller….
 

 

 

 

 

 
Big cannon…….
 

 

 
Rudder and tiller…..
 

 

 

 

 
Mast is tapered and top rigging sheaves fitted…...
 

 

 
Rigging the cannon…..
 

 

 
Fitting the mast….
 

 

 

 

 

 
Making the lateen yard…….
 

 
Temporary fitting of yard…..
 

 

 

 
That is all for now. The next task is to make the sail and then finally rig the yard.
 
After that things will be on hold for a while as I am having knee replacement surgery on April 15th.
 
See you next month!
 
Mike.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I've been working on all the deck features.  Nothing is glued in yet as there is a lot more work to be done.  Next up is the fore and aft platforms.

Hello al,
 
I have diligently worked last week, the open rails on the quarter deck are now completted.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
overall views:
 

 

 
forecastle planksheer in work:
 

 
Regards
Alex

little step:

 

 

 

 

 

For the last 2 months, I did try to participate a lot more in some of other parts of the forum like tools and wood. What is surprising me the most is how fast some peoples can answer without reading the other postings of the same subject. I will stop here. While this time, I also continued to build. Next, the inside work will be behind the wheel from the first deck upward.

Next was to make a small piece of the rising wood so that I can glue the floor timber and the cross chock together. I would love to be able to say that my first frames went together with no issues - but no!  I had sanded them far too much and had to make them again.  Its not a problem I'm in no rush. 

The area between the cheeks have three laser cut layers.  They are very thin.  They vary in length.  Note below how the top edge of these three layers runs along the top of the black strake.  This might vary because I have no idea where your black strake is and if it deviated from the plans a bit you will need to get creative.  We can talk about that.  But its not the end of the world.  Hopefully you guys will read through the entire process and take more measurements before you get this far.   These pieces along with the headrails are probably some of the most complicated parts of a model project.
 
All three layers were pre bent with heat (hair dryer).  I sanded of the laser char and softened the aft edges of all the layers.  Each layer was added one at a time.  The final layer has the size and location for the hawse holes.   More on that later..

Next is the upper cheek...You should have beveled this like the lower cheek.  This one should go easier.  Note how it wraps onto the stem.  It doesnt extend above the top of the stem.  This upper cheek is also shorter on the hull as you can see.
 

You can sense the repetition....
 
Then the upper hair bracket.  Again it was designed a lot longer than you need.   Add the figure head and determine its length.   Cut it so you get a clean tight joint with the cheek.  
 

Double check your work.....do or die so to speak.   If your measurements worked out the carving should fit perfectly with a bit of room to spare between the hair brackets.  If not you could always tweak the carving so it fits as best it can.
 

Almost done now....
 
In the next photo you can see three more parts I added.   I will explain each to you but please refer back to this photo below for its position etc.
 

First is the short decorative molding along the front of the figures leg.  This is laser cut for you.  Round off the edges along its length.  Clean up the char as usual.  Its a little long and once again its best to put the figurehead in position.  Then test the fit of this molding.  Cut it to fit and glue it in position while the figurehead is temporarily in place as a guide.  It goes from the foot up to just under the skirt.
 
Next up is the bolster.  The bolster is pretty thick and laser cut for you.  Its an 1/8" thick.   This piece is too short and too thick to pre-bend.   Thats why it was layer cut 1/8" thick.   You will need to sand it to the curved shape so it fits against the hull.  You can see where it goes in that photo.  It sits between the cheeks on top of the lower cheek.   Start by sanding the back side to fit snug against the hull.   Get it nice and snug with no gaps.   The photo below shows one bolster shaped.  It will get pretty thin by the time its all shaped correctly.  Probably just a but thinner than 3/32".   It depends on how deep your cheeks ended up after your beveling and shaping of those.
 
Then shape the forward side keeping it a consistent thickness.   To finish it up round off the top edge as shown.  IMPORTANT NOTE:  Do not glue this in position.  Just make sure it fits and looks good sitting on the cheeks.  You dont want this glued on when you drill out the hawse holes.  We will be doing that next.   They would certainly get damaged. 

And then the wash cant.....The wash cant is rarely seen on any kit.  If you look at that photo you can see it temporarily tacked in position.  It sits on the underside of the lower cheek.  ....in the corner where the hull and stem meet.  It helps deflect the water and waves.   You need to sand this odd shaped piece.  Its hard to describe.  The front edge is like a knifes edge.  Sand the entire piece by rounding it off to a knifes edge along the front edge.   This will be painted black but I show it natural in the photo because you wouldnt have been able to see it.   I have since painted it black and glued it back into position.  
 
The photo below shows one of them shaped and ready for painting.
 

And here is that last picture again to show the placement of those last parts...

Now I know this looks complex.  That is because it is.   You will not see any other kit with this much detail.  Even those Chinese POF kits that everyone raves about do a rather crappy job with their headrails and cheeks.  But this is a pretty close representation to any contemporary model you might examine for an English frigate.  I know you guys can do it.  
 
I could have cut many corners and gone with something simplified and kit-like.  But I think its something you will be proud of once you finish.   Just take it slow and do lots of measuring......lots of testing.....repeat and repeat again.   Just wait till we get to the head rails....good times!!!
 

I remember when I built the CWM and put the rudders inside the boat, three harpoons, ropes and six oars, a bucket, a small flag on its post to mark the dead whales.. And I did it in the six boats, of course this in the modeller to detail even more equipment.
As to how the rudder was secured a clue could be the AL kit.

Tim
 
Very.... very..... nice work. So educational. You took your time to explain every step. Thanks a lot
 
nothing to compare with mine. At the present I followed your advice I’m posting a log about my present work. The St Caterina. 
 
thanks again
 
this my final result in my longboat
 

The slow detail work.

Because the question of choosing which wood to use for model ship building comes and comes again, I wanted to write another page about it.
 
At the end, the choice you will do will be a personal choice as many activities like you can prefer to cut a plank with a hand saw or an electric saw. There is no good or bad choice, it is a strictly a personal choice guided by our preferences.
 
Here is why I chose cherry wood to be the only wood I use for model ship building.

You applied primer-sealer first? That could be one cause for blistering.

You applied primer-sealer first? That could be one cause for blistering.

You applied primer-sealer first? That could be one cause for blistering.