allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Emil First, welcome to MSW. When you have a moment, please post an introduction on the new member forum so we can get to know a little about you. When you say "this model," are you talking about the Bounty at 1:50 scale? Regarding the copper plating, most, if not all, of store-bought plating is out of scale and appear to have rivet bumps rather than nail indentations. Making your own is probably the best way to get them right. Not knowing for sure your scale, the full size of the full plates on British ships was typically 48" by 15" and overlapped 1.5" If your scale is 1:50 the plates would be 0.96" X 0.30" with an overlap of 0.03" . The nails were 1/4" with 1/2" heads so if you feel you must show these dents (NOT bumps), they would be about 0.01" diameter at a scale of 1:50. If you have not already done so, do a search here at MSW on copper sheathing as there has been a lot of discussion over the past month or so regarding the plate sizes, plate overlap, the nail patterns and spacing, etc. You can buy copper self-sticking tape so you don't have to glue and paint aluminum foil. Allan -
Dusan, Lovely build overall, and I admire you bashing to get things even better than what the kit provides! The upper decks' gratings are extremely well done, with the battens running fore and aft rather than athwartships. Allan
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No one famous (except for this saying) This modern version is attributed to American ad agency exec, Fred Barnard. It is a paraphrase of several earlier versions. Allan
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I do have a question regarding the forward most part of the knee of the head. The sketch I posted shows a radius on the forward face, but I have seen contemporary models with the radius and other without. Like most things in our hobby, not much is cast in stone, but I was wondering if the radius was era related or decided by the shipwrights. Two photos below, one with no radius, the other showing the radius at least below the figure head. In the second photo I do not recall for sure if the radius followed all the way up to the figurehead but I think it did in this case. Allan
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JJ, The area to be cut out in the photos does not look right at all. It looks like they show a gap to be cut out that is much too wide. There is a taper from the stem as you move forward to the knee of the head where the figurehead rests. I don't have access to my books for a couple days, but if I recall correctly, I believe it tapers to about half the width of the stem. The top view rough sketch below is not to scale but pretty close. This means the cutout in the figure head needs to taper as well for a proper fit on the knee of the head. Allan
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
allanyed replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Ron, I wish I bought a dozen copies myself when I see prices on the net as volume one is out of print. I'm glad Wayne and I were able to help. If I spot a copy at a realistic price I will PM you.- 122 replies
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Babyluca Welcome to MSW!!! Maybe it's me but I thought this was a strange introduction to yourself for a first post which is the purpose of the new member forum. Consider trying a search in the appropriate forums for this kind of information as you have questions down the road, you will probably get more responses. The new member intro forum is probably not the best place for this kind of question. Allan
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Matiz Looking forward to your next post and photos!! We are scheduled to dock (Celebrity Reflection) in La Spezia September 25th. I know Pisa is not too far and if you have some time, I truly hope we can meet and have lunch together, (and maybe see Euryalus😀) Ciao Allan
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Hi Mick, Are you referring to the spread sheets by Danny Vadas when you mention the set of tables? I have found these by Vadas to be reliable except for part of the 17th century where the data is all wrong as the initial formula he used was incorrect. Otherwise, the Vadas spread sheet is based on the formulas and ratios in David Lees' book. The mast lengths in this spread sheet are based on Lees' formulas and the lower masts are based on the length from the step to the top of the mast. Allan
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Harold Hahn method
allanyed replied to Essayons's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Druxey Your photos bring up a very important point regarding the huge waste of wood when using the so called Hahn method. I built one model with this method many years ago and the cost of material for the framing was triple that of the method that you show and double that for a fully framed model. With the Hahn method, gluing overly sized pieces into sandwiches then cutting out the frames is expensive and considering the cost of quality wood today, the savings of using more traditional framing methods is significant. Allan -
Konrad Welcome to MSW. We have MANY members in which English is not their first language and they are active participants at MSW so you have no worries. Your English is better than some of us where English is our first language 😀 Allan
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Welcome to MSW Julian! Being only an hour or so drive to St. Michaels, I am surprised a skipjack was not on your back to school (of ship modeling) list 😀 Cheers Allan
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Tom, What you say makes sense but I had never seen such a system based on contemporary sources. Can you share the contemporary source from the forum discussion that came up with this as it would be an interesting thing to add to a model if it was actual practice. Thanks again Allan
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Thanks Tom, This was new for me I had only seen the cannon pulled tight to the bulwarks and the running rigging lines frapped. What the forum idea shows certainly would not hold the guns tight and keep them from running loose unless it was in addition to having the guns up tight and the lines frapped with the muzzle secured to the bulwarks as well. Thanks for sharing!! Allan
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tom, Lovely build you have going, thank you for sharing. Hope you don't mind my question but you show something I have never seen before. Is this what the kit instructed? Thank you Allan
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Harold Hahn method
allanyed replied to Essayons's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
J Merton First, welcome to MSW!!! It sounds like you are referring only to the scantlings of the frames. These would be different for the Hahn method compared to a fully framed vessel. For British ships, scantlings cover pretty much every piece of a ship, not just the various parts of each of the frames. These dimensions changed over various periods of time and of course vary for different size vessels. A full set of scantlings can be found for the 1719, 1745, and 1750 Establishments, the Shipbuilder's Repository (1788) and Steel's Elements and Practices of Naval Architecture (1805). To the best of my knowledge, a complete set of scantlings is not available on the internet. If your ship was British and built in a private yard, there may be a contract available that also gives scantlings for the various pieces of the ship. If you are talking about an American vessel, the scantlings for an appropriatie period should be relatively close to the British. I PM'd you one folio from Scantlings of the Royal Navy Allan -
Hi BE, The ledges and battens seem about right, but I would have thought they would both be the same, i.e. 0.70 or 1mm which would be about 2"- 2.5" at full scale. I have no access to my books for another week so I may be off base regarding this dimension but I believe the battens, ledges and openings would be about 2.5"-3". This is something most kits get wrong, but again, yours look far better than any other kit gratings I have seen on the build logs here at MSW. Allan
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Cutting out gunports
allanyed replied to Etcher's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Darren, Some builders plank the entire hull, then draw the gun ports in and I found that it works well for me. Once done, I drill a series of holes around the inside of the lines of the port with a tiny drill bit, then can cut the port, albeit undersized, with a chisel or scalpel. After the undersized port is cut, a chisel, file, sanding stick, whatever you are most comfortable using, can be used to take it right to the line. Bulkheads are a problem if the kit is not designed properly as they should not be in line with a port, just as no frame in a fully framed model or ship is in line with a gun port. One caveat, if your planking is the very porous and brittle common so- called walnut found in many kits, I don't know if any method will work well. Allan -
BE, Your model looks terrific and Vanguard seems to have gone out of their way to provide both quality material and accuracy. The gratings you have from Vanguard look far and away better than any other kit gratings I have seen. What is the width of the ledge and/or batten? You mentioned adding wood the thickness of the deck planks to the underside of the coamings and head ledges. I thought the head ledges and coamings sat on the beams and carlings, but in looking at a couple contemporary inboard profile drawings I am not so sure which, if any, was standard practice, sitting on the beams or sitting on the planking. I have no access to any of my books while traveling so hope someone here has a definitive answer. Thanks for sharing your build BE, this has been a really nice log to follow. Allan
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Thanks Bruce, but I was only suggesting someone that has a copy of Lees handy post what the sail looked like for Dennis' project. We are traveling for 10 days so I have no way to look right now. What he shows may very well be the right shape, but as he took it from Steel, it is half a century later so maybe not accurate for 1745. Regarding the drawing you posted it looks like one of the Chapelle drawings of Mediator. This was one of the drawings that Carlosgf used for his build and shown in his build log here at MSW several years ago. His log may be of some help for Dennis. Allan
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I do not have access to my books right now, but maybe someone else with a copy of Lees' Masting and Rigging can jump in to confirm if the shape of the sail is correct for 1745. Steel is early based on late 18th early19th century so there MAY be a difference in the shape. Allan
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Hi Walter, Have you done a thorough search here at MSW? I believe this is discussed in some detail showing how to do that. I suggest you consider silkspan or similar unwoven material unless your scale is 1:24 or larger. No cloth exists for making sails to scale if your model is smaller, such as 1:48, 1:64, 1:98 etc.. Allan
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FWIW, It would probably be easier and take less time to remove all the planks, throw them out and start over. You will NOT be the first to go this route and you will be very happy in the end that you started over. Study the tutorials before and during the planking process. Note that the aft end of the garboard strake should lay along the rabbet, same as the midships and forward part. It does not rise as you have it and this will create problems if you try to do this with the second layer. Study a planking expansion drawing as well to get a feel for where each plank goes. There are a lot of them on the RMG Collections site in low resolution. Go to https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections and type planking expansion in the search box . There are one or two in high resolution on the Wiki Commons site as well. Allan
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Dave, Are those two planks glued in place or just temporarily in place until you finish shaping them properly so they don't ride up as they appear in the photo. You need to hot edge bend these per the method here (There are several videos) or spile as explained here https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf
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Al, I now understand what you want to do and can relate in part. I have a set of planes from my paternal grandfather who was a cabinet maker from apprentice as a teen to doing restorations for museums and private individuals in his retirement years back in the 1960's and '70's. These are not quite so old as yours, but now probably over100 years old. have and use his workbench from circa 1920 and all will be passed down when the time comes. Imagine the stories these old tools of ours could tell if they could talk. Allan
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