allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Rudy It appears that you forgot to taper the plank. I see what looks like tick marks on the frames but they look to be spaced the same on each frame whereas they should be spaced closer together as you move forward and wider as you move aft. If you don't taper the planks you will run out of space at the bow and have gaps aft. All planks need to end in the rabbet fore and aft except if if you wind up needing a drop strake forward or a stealer aft. As your vessel appears to be a small one, neither a drop nor a stealer should be required. There are a lot of posts here at MSW on this as well as on at least one of planking tutorials here at MSW. The https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf article goes into spiling as well as tapering but you can also use the method Gregory references from Syren above as both work well. Allan -
Flyer, These are perhaps the best looking plates I have seen to date. Beautiful job on plating your hull!!!! Allan
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Thanks Peter. Do you have a link for these etched plates? I only see their part numbers 4392 and 4392-1 and on their website the fastening marks look to be punched not etched. (Photo below) I hope you don't mind if we can disagree if these plates are the ones you are familiar with. These are probably the most out of scale copper plates I have seen so far. The plates were typically 15" X48" and had upwards of 20 nails across the long axis, 6 or so on the short axis and a number of nails installed diagonally inside the periphery. Enlarging the photos to full scale the bumps are about 4.5" in diameter, 9 times larger than what should be tiny dents, not bumps. At 1:64, the dents should only be 0.008" ( 0.2mm) diameter while these are 0.070 (1.7mm. ) Allan
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Copper plates
allanyed replied to Barbara's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Rick, Excellent photo, thank you very much for posting this. Allan -
Copper plates
allanyed replied to Barbara's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The following site was posted on a build log here at MSW. Looking at photos of the nails for copper plating pretty well shows that those giant pimples on most kit supplied sheathing look nothing like what was used on the ships. https://www.bbc.co.uk/ahistoryoftheworld/objects/v8RrCz_SRtCcGn6qcOQXsA What looks like a two pence piece in the photo is 1.02" diameter so it is easy to see these nails are about 0.25" with a head that is about 0.5" that would make an indentation when hammered into place, not 2"-3" raised bumps or etched circles found on most kit supplied sheathing. Smaller scale models may be better served not to show the pattern on the sheathing at all. Allan -
Andrew, Thank you for posting these sites. On the first is a photo of the nails along what looks like a two pence piece. The two pence is 1.04" diameter and the nails look to be right at or very close to 0.25" diameter (with 0.5" heads). This confirms information from Goodwin's Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War. Anyone coppering Bounty or any other ship should take note of this as the stuff in the kits seen here at MSW has huge pimples or etched circles that are, at scale, closer to 2" in diameter, or larger, instead of tiny dents. Those that have made their own with copper tape and attention is paid to these tiny nail indentations do a better job than the kit makers. Thanks again for the links. Allan
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As the metal work will be black, maybe consider copper instead of brass in the future as you can blacken it in situ with liver of sulfur which will not stain the wood. If I remember correctly Ed Tosti goes into some detail on this in his Naiad build log and/or his Young America build log here at MSW. Allan
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Christian, Regarding your jig fixture, another new day, another new idea, at least from what I have seen. Are you gluing up the frames while in the jig, and if you are, any problems arising with the frame being glued into the jig and having problems getting it out? Are you using a CNC mill? Sorry for all the questions, but I find your method fascinating. Allan
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Dearborn Welcome aboard!! Hope to see your progress photos on a build log in the near future. Allan
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Dominic Your post above might come from the following article --> https://www.boatbuilding.xyz/hms-bounty/decoration.html This is not contemporary information so may or may not be accurate. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Carl, It would be nice if you would post a little introduction about yourself on the new member forum here at MSW. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/3-new-member-introductions/ In the meantime is the surface that is to be painted fiberglass, epoxy resin, gel coat or? I did a quick check on the net about appropriate coatings for epoxy resin and invariably they recommend acrylics or even latex coatings. Allan
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Master Korabel and Falkonet models availability
allanyed replied to grsjax's topic in Wood ship model kits
FWIW https://www.jdsupra.com/legalnews/new-u-s-sanctions-and-export-controls-2030135/ Allan -
Welcome to MSW Sbagg. It would be great if you would post a little intro about yourself on the new member forum. Regarding your question, a few photos and more information might help. What is the material of the rigging line? If the lines actually just fall off/break on their own you might want to consider re-rigging with new line or is it that they have just come untied? The fact that it got brittle in the first place is strange in itself, but are the lines parting at the knots or elsewhere? Again, welcome to MSW Allan
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There is a high resolution (39mb) contemporary inboard profile drawing of Seahorse 1794, an Artois class vessel on the Wiki commons site. It shows how high the tops of the scuttles are above the decks. The same low res drawing is also on the RMG Collections website.) The high resolution drawing is at https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich Scroll to the second page and there are several drawings of her including the inboard profile (J7956) which shows the heights above the deck of all the coamings on each deck. There is one opening on the QD about 2 or 3 feet aft of the main mast that does not show a coaming. The others on all decks do have coamings of various heights above the decks. There appear to be coamings on the contemporary model of Diana at RMG https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66533 There is a complete set of drawings of the Artois class including another inboard profile drawn in 1793 https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-82176 but it is low resolution so difficult to see as clearly as the high resolution drawing mentioned above. Allan
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Jeff, She is a very well constructed model, congratulations. I do notice there are belaying pins which is curious as they were not used on British ships before 1770 and Revenge ran aground in 1591. Am I correct in assuming this is a kit design error? Thanks Allan
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Rudy, When you say two garboard planks on the starboard side do you mean two strakes of planking or two pieces of planking making up the single garboard strake? I may have missed something but I never read of two garboard strakes on each side. For the single strake, the planks that make up the garboard are usually no more than 30 feet long so your ship and scale will determine the length of each plank of the garboard strake. For a better picture of what I am describing go to the RMG Collections site. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-83495 is a planking expansion drawing. The lower set is the outboard planking and the garboard is the lowest strake and is made up of four pieces of planking mated to the rabbet. Note that the forward end does not go very far up the stem. Many models have the garboard going too far up the stem and wind up with planking that is more akin to a Viking ship which of course would be appropriate if you are building a Viking ship. 😀 Allan
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JB I second Mercator's comments on Vanguard but would also add the David Antcherl series of models from Model Shipways. Do you care if your model is a truly accurate representation of a real ship? If you do, study the build logs here and do a little research on the ship of your choice before buying the kit to see if the kit maker has done a good job in their representation. As can be clearly seen in many build logs, unfortunately many, not all, kit manufacturers have done an extremely poor job in producing a kit that yields a realistic looking model, including the one you mention. A great place to do research is RMG. For the Bounty as one example------------- https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-86459 shows the deck layouts. A model held at RMG with several views can be seen at https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68763 Allan
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Welcome Docker!! I look forward to your forthcoming build log. Where are in you France? We have been very fortunate to visit many times and find that we love all parts of your country especially Nice, the Loire, Provence, Paris and Normandy to name a few. We are now making plans to be back in the late spring of 2023! Passe une bonne journee Allan
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Hi Lyle, Thanks for the response. Since posting I too found the date of 1771 in Goodwin's The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War. Regarding research, good for you taking the time to do so!!!!! Based on the build logs here at MSW I would research every piece in an AL kit before using it as they, like many others, appear to not have done more than a modicum of research on their own for any of their kits. Allan
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I was just going to hit the like button but felt a little extra comment was in order. For a first POF, you continue to amaze us. That said, Druxey mentioned your secret regarding the crack in the clamp being safe with us. I thought I saw a post on virtual media about this that has gone viral...... 🤐 just kidding........ Allan
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Your channels show holes for the deadeye strops to pass through. I know this was the style used early on, but do you or does anyone know when this was changed to having notches that were then covered with a molding strip once the deadeyes were secured. I think the change was around 1770, about 15 years before Bounty was launched so she would have had the slots and cover molding piece, but I may be off on the year. Sketch of what I mean is below. The slot design was made for ease of putting on and removing the deadeyes as needed and it is easier on the model as well. Thanks Allan
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Gun Port Yellow?
allanyed replied to Dave_E's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I suggest using good quality artist tubed acrylics rather than bottled paints. I have used both over the years and there is no comparison in quality and consistency. Liquitex Professional Heavy Body is my personal paint of choice and comes in a full range of colors including yellow ocre. You can darken it with some burnt umber or lighten it with titanium white as you wish. Allan -
You are not alone. If you watch the Simon Stevens presentation on contemporary models at RMG you will see debris (and other objects) inside the hull of at least one of the 200+ year old models. https://www.thewellingtontrust.org/events/ships-in-miniature-a-brief-overview-of-the-ship-model-from-1800bc-to-the-present/ Allan
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Compared to the out of scale stuff supplied by almost all the popular kit makers, this is by far one of the nicest copper sheathing jobs seen in the build logs. Kudos to you for scrapping the junk in the kit and making your own. There may have been some diagonal patterns of nails inside the periphery of each piece but not very close together. Leaving them out though does not detract at all. Looking forward to your next posts. Allan
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Having seen so many build logs of the Sphinx from Vanguard here at MSW I got curious and went to the RMG Collections site. The site has every drawing one could hope for to produce an outstanding kit, and Chris has achieved exactly that. It is obvious a ton of study of these dozen or so drawings was made as the details from these drawings show up on the model. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/Sphinx 1775 Allan
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