allanyed
-
Posts
8,149 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by allanyed
-
Tom, The rigging changed in 1805, so are you looking for prior to the change or at the time of Trafalgar? MAYBE the rigging was not changed on Victory, but you have a choice. Lees explains in detail how the footropes, lifts and braces are rigged on the crossjack. He goes into detail on the slings and trusses as well including mentioning that chain slings could be used from 1793 if requested. Chain trusses came later, (1850) Allan -
I second and third the above. What you show in the photos is indeed thread and ships did not use thread nor should a model ship. Miniature rope can be made by you or purchased from several sources and looks sooooo much better than thread. Allan
-
Kostas, I agree with you that you were better off to remove the stubs of the bulkheads. The moulded dimension of the top of the top timbers of the Victory is about 5.5" to 7" depending if at the waist, QD, or FC so about 0.06" (1.5mm) at your scale. I love that you are not trying to show treenails on the deck planking as they would have to be 0.008", nearly impossible to make and look good. Your gratings look far better than seen in the majority of other kit builds. Did you make these are they from the kit? It is hard to tell from the photos, but the openings would be about 0.03" (0.8mm) or less at your scale. These look to be maybe a little large, but hard to tell from the photos. Will you be following the planking tutorials here at MSW when you plank the hull? I look forward to your next progress posting. Allan
-
Daniel, You mention you could not find the plans on properly planking the hull. There are two that are excellent and can be found here at MSW in the Articles folder. https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/LiningOffYourHullPlankingTutorialAndFan.pdf and https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf Allan
-
Welcome to MSW Luke. I hope you enjoy your time here with your 40,000+ new friends. Allan
-
Brass Blackening Building Time Survey
allanyed replied to Dave_E's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
"Blacken It" was indeed the best in my experience. While I still use brass at times I have gone to copper whenever possible as it can be blackened in situ with liver of sulfur and I am very happy with 3D printed cannons in black resin as the detailing is often superior to turned cannon, especially at smaller scales. The only problem I have with the 3D parts is my own lack of skill in making the 3D drawings. Allan -
Just as an FYI I believe West India boxwood is from West Indies, not India so there is the same issue in shipping or worse as the Lumberyard gets it from their source then would have to transship to India. If possible it is better if Vinod finds a local wood supplier rather than one from the US. Allan
-
If you are trying for accurate, to-scale looking sails, you are better leaving them in the box. There has been a lot of very good information shared on sail making here at MSW using alternate materials such as silk span if realistic looking sails is a concern. The kit makers should be embarrassed by the sails they provide. Allan
-
Siggi, sorry for the confusion, I was complimenting your use of paper patterns. This is something other modelers should try if they have not done so already. Allan
-
Brass Blackening Building Time Survey
allanyed replied to Dave_E's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Any concerns about time might be considered the antithesis of building a fine ship model 😀 This hobby or even avocation of ours is more like a crock pot than a microwave in getting things done. Allan- 16 replies
-
- 10
-
-
https://play.history.com/shows/historys-greatest-mysteries/season-3/episode-99 About the TV show airing 22 March in the US. Allan
- 1 reply
-
- 3
-
-
-
Gregory As the transoms were upwards of 3 to 4 feet broad and 2 to 3 feet high, it would not have been easy to make this from a single piece of wood. Planking on a ship's hull and transom were not tongue and grooved so is there a reason the transom on a boat would be done this way? If t&g were used in real life it would not be seen. Allan
-
Thanks B.E. I never thought to look in Lavery's book. What is a little odd is that the dimensions he gives for a 64 are a bit different than what is on the Dorsetshire drawings. I double checked the dimensions of the main body of the stove on the plans on the RMG site and using the top view they are 6' 10" fore and aft, and 6' 3" athwartships. Dorsetshire may be an anomaly or Lavery uses an average from various sources as he does not give a source for his chart that I could find. Either way, your stove is a beauty. Allan
- 858 replies
-
- 2
-
-
-
- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
Your stove is a beautiful piece! The Dorsetshire (64) 1767 stove looks to be redrawn from the contemporary drawing of the inboard profile and deck drawing so most likely a very accurate basis to use. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-81162 and https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-81163 As Sphinx (20) 1775 was substantially smaller and had a much smaller crew of about 200 versus about 500 for a 64 like Dorsetshire, would the stove be just a smaller version or a different design in some ways? The stove on the Dorsetshire looks to be about 86" X 88" not including the tray on the forward side. Would this fit on the space available on Sphinx? Allan
- 858 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
Looking good David, and kudos for doing your research with the sources you listed! One small note for consideration if you are going to have the deck exposed to show the beams, etc. on other decks and/or future builds. Your beams, carlings, and ledges (what I think you are calling athwartships carlings) look spot on dimensionally, but hard to tell from the photo. Regarding a first rate like Victory, for the lower gun deck the beams at midships were 18" square, the carlings 11.5" broad by 10.5" deep, and the ledges 6" broad by 5" deep based on the scantlings from Steel's Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture and The Shipbuilder's Repository and shown in the Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships as well. The spacing of the ledges would be such that they would be "in the clear asunder not more than 12" nor less than 9" so maybe fewer than what you show. For the middle and upper gun decks, the scantlings of the beams, carlings and ledges are of course slightly smaller as would the scantlings be different for lower rate ships. Looking forward to your next progress photos. Allan
-
AJ The idea of air scuttles may very well be the answer, but then I wonder why they would have the plants below deck with virtually no light. Up on deck could be tough though in rough weather with salt spray on the plants although bread fruit plants are tolerant of salt spray for short periods. Interesting stuff that comes out of the builds here at MSW! Allan
-
Ras, Thank you for sharing your research on this project. I find it fascinating and look forward to your build. Allan
-
My day was going really well, and now it is over the top in good news. Allan
-
Excellent How to Book for masting and rigging
allanyed replied to Bill Morrison's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Bill, congrats on having had this book given to you. It has been my go-to book for rigging for years as it covers all types of English ships and a very wide range of time. The ratios in the back of the book allow anyone to properly size masts, yards, standing and running rigging based on the size of the vessel and the time she would have been in service. Allan -
I like the finish you put to the sheathing and that they designed the plating to be overlapped. This is definitely far better than nearly all of the sheathing we have all seen on the build logs. The only thing that I don't understand is why Amati made the nails triple the diameter that would be in actual practice. I scaled your photo to full 48"X15" plates and the etched circles are 1.5" diameter versus the actual 0.5" they would be. As they are etched it seems that the manufacturer could easily do this at the proper scale by just etching a round dot instead of an oversized ring. I have minimal experience in metal etching, but it seems this could be done whether chemically or laser etched. Great job David, your build continues to be a joy to follow. Allan
-
https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68763 shows these on the model at RMG but there are no lines running through them. I thought they might be sheaves for lines to pass around and through the bulwark, but now not so sure. Allan
-
Your build continues to be a joy to follow. One seemingly small thing that is actually quite significant is the use of paper or card stock patterns which cost nothing to make and save a lot of time by minimizing mistakes with the wood. Allan
-
Welcome to MSW Iron Hands. Hope your touch is lighter in actual practice when working on your model😀 You may very well be the youngest member here and it is great to see. I hope you can deal with over 40,000 new teachers and maybe half as many different opinions at times. Truth is we are all still learning, even though many of us have run the guantlet many times already. Allan
-
Dave, From Caruana, volume 2, the swivel guns had been 3 feet long as standard until about 1727 then barrels of 30" became the British navy standard for 1/2 pounders. For the LN, 2.5 foot long barrels would be most appropriate so at1:64 they would be just under 1/2" long. The ones from Syren look great but are huge compared to what you require. Allan
Our Emblem ®
