allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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What Jaager and PR said above, grooves or scratches (even if tiny) and EPOXY. CA may be quicker compared to epoxy, but "quick" is not part of wooden ship modeling vernacular and CA is not always the best solution anyway. Allan -
Hi David, For a relative newbie, as you describe yourself, your work is really coming on! Many of things you are doing are way past some others with more years experience. It is impressive that you are looking at alternative sources for contemporary information to built a realistic looking piece rather than just accepting everything that comes out of the box. The drawings on the Wiki site have the most contemporary information if you want to delve further into the details. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich The Artois (Diana/Seahorse/Apollo et al) drawings are the last five on the fourth page and the first two on the fifth page. For anyone interested, copy of the original 18 page contract for the Artois class ships, including Diana is available from RMG. One thing that you may want to consider modifying if you can are the gratings. Your coamings and head ledges look terrific. For the gratings themselves, the battens would normally be running fore and aft and the ledges athwartships rather than the other way around. Couple photos from a contemporary model at Preble Hall follow. Allan
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Nicely done! Do the plans call for the forward part of the knee of the head to be so thick? It would normally be tapered to about half it's thickness at the stem. As a result the figure head is not so bow legged😀 Allan
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Corel HMS Victory 1:98
allanyed replied to Sheerline's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Welcome to MSW Seatoland It would be a nice gesture if you posted an introduction with a little about yourself on the new member forum. Yes, Cornwall seems to be pretty popular with the membership, thanks for posting. Allan -
For anyone building an Artois class vessel including Diana, there are 7 contemporary high resolution drawings available for free on the Wiki Commons site. Allan
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Pretty ingenious David. It's good seeing you go through the experimentation to get what you were looking for. They look far better than most, especially at 1:64. Can you make or are there other nozzle sizes so you can then make the various size treenails needed from 3/4" to about 1.5" or 2" ? As to bamboo, when you say lathe, did you actually try to turn these? Splitting bamboo skewers to a slightly larger than needed size then running through a good quality draw plate is fast work for those that do not have a 3D printer. Making in the neighborhood of 10,000 treenails though may justify an investment in a printer. 😀 Allan
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Dying 3D printed resin parts
allanyed replied to Dr PR's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi Phil I have cannon barrels made with black resin so there is no need for dying them. Do you know if this could this work for the chain as well? Thanks Allan- 1 reply
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Rudder painted white?
allanyed replied to Dave_E's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Dave, A number of contemporary hull block models can be seen on the RMG site that show the white bottoms. For some examples of 60 gun ships for instance go to https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/search/60 gun ship full hull block models You can find a lot more examples of other rates on their collections site. One of the things I found odd was that most of the contemporary block models from after 1782, when copper sheathing became the norm, mostly have white painted bottoms. I did find one photo of a contemporary block model a with copper colored painted bottom which looks far better than the out-of-scale plates found in modern kits. Allan -
Welcome to MSW Evan. Please do post a little about yourself in the new member forum. Never heard of a wooden boat or ship being stained and it can be iffy at times on models as is evident from the above posts. For my own part I prefer to use different species of TIGHT grained wood for different colors if painting is inappropriate. Allan
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Very nice Chuck! Chapter 10 for those looking for this. While it is not the black and white canvas that was actually used, this is much nicer IMHO. Allan
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It is sooooo nice to see your masts made from square stock rather than dowels. This of course means any wood can be used instead of be relegated to the wood from which store bought dowels are made. You have shown that a lathe is unnecessary to make nicely rounded and tapered masts. Having the mill set up is a big plus, but for most of the folks here, the squaring can be done with chisels, blades, files and patience. Thanks for sharing Allan
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Your work is to be commended and the fact that you have done some research is great to hear. If you have not already checked these, for rigging closer to the era of the GH, books by R.C. Anderson and David Lees are likely to be more accurate as they go back, in detail, to the mid 17th century. Perfect sources??? Probably not as they are quite a few years after GH, but more likely to be closer to GH than anything else other than contemporary sources. Allan
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Rudy, Great progress! This is more of a curiosity thing for me as many build logs show planking that looks to be about 6 inches wide whereas it was normally closer to 9 inches (0.375" at your scale) based on the few contemporary drawings I have seen. Most contemporary drawings show only lines or inboard profiles, but there are a few that do show planking including at least one in W.E. Mays The Boats of Men of War. Do your plans give a width via a drawing or text? I have never found scantlings for the width of the bottom planking, only the few contemporary drawings. I also checked a half dozen contemporary contracts for ships' boats and none of these give the width of the bottom strakes. but would love to hear about a contemporary source if anyone has these. Thanks Allan
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Hi Paul, When I noticed your binnacle with the aft side closed off and the forward side open I thought that the clear openings might be on the wrong side as the helmsmen could not see the compasses but then looked at photos of the binnacle on the modern day Victory and there are clear openings on the forward side there as well. Is this because the candle light would interfere with the night vision of the helmsmen or is there some other reason for this configuration? Thanks Allan
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Your New "cautionary tale" posterchild here!
allanyed replied to Valkyrja68's topic in New member Introductions
Hi Valkyrja It is nice to see a new lady of Odin join MSW. Heck of job you have on the battlefield what with picking which of the men go to Valhalla😀 If you use the search box at the top right and type the words "pirated plans" you will get the post that Chuck Passaro started in 2013 plus updates and discussions. In short it included the following statement and list. Cheers, Allan NO KITS BY THESE MFGs WILL EVER BE ALLOWED ON THIS SITE. Here is the list of crooked ship model MFGs banned from MSW ZHL RealTS Snail Model XinFeng Crown JD Model LHQK Huasong Shi Cheng woodenkit (Russian MFG) YengFan Unicorn Model YQ (YaunQing) Master CN CF shi hai 4H Model Moxing Microcosm WN Jaocdoen SC DUJIAOSHOU DryDock Models and parts (Canada) selling for companies that pirate. -
If you are using the Lenarth Petersson book Rigging Period Ship Models it does not necessarily apply to the Golden Hind as his book is based on one contemporary model from the 18th century so is not applicable for a ship of the 16th century. Regarding instructions from OcCre, they are not to be trusted without first doing your own research to see what they provide is accurate and what may be their own fantasies. Still, you are to be congratulated on your very neat workmanship!!! Allan
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Welcome aboard Amphibette. Do you own or have you sailed on an Amphibette? That would be a fun project for a model. Allan
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Bug Your idea to replace the kit figurehead has opened up a world of new ideas for the rest of our community, including the carvers, even if only to look for a maquette. Allan
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Your ship model is looking quite good Candice. Regarding the boat which you affectionately called the little guy can be a relatively easy build if you don't use the kit design which looks nothing like the launch or any other boats found on the Bounty or other British ships. If you do a little research here on MSW you will find quite a few posts on building a ship's boat that will look realistic. There are also detailed drawings and scantlings in various books that will help you. Feel free to PM me if you are interested in some drawings, scantlings, and explanations that I can share. Allan
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HMS Bounty by AdamA - 1:48
allanyed replied to AdamA's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I second Greg's comment. Patience, sharp tools and probably some do overs rather than settling and there is the recipe for an achievable feat by other builders. Allan -
Great pics, thanks for posting. Obviously no big bumps or other types of markings other than the little nails used. Not sure if this has come up on any posts concerning the copper sheathing, but I imagine if the real sheathing had huge bumps like on most of the kit supplied plating, there would be as much drag on the hull as a hull fouled with barnacles and seaweed which no sailor would want. Allan
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Below is a photo of plating on CS. You can decide which of the scale sizes of plates you shop for are most appropriate. I cannot speak for CS, but the RN plating was typically 48"x15" with a 1.5" overlap much like done with roof shingles. If this holds true for CS the shingles should be about 0.2" X 0.67". The sketch below is based on the details from Goodwin in his book, The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War. Allan
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Rob, Welcome to MSW. Please do write a short intro about yourself on the new member forum. Glues vary with the material to be glued. Some folks use various types of what is commonly called carpenter's glue for wood to wood bonding, and epoxy for metal to metal or metal to wood. Others prefer cyanoacrylate. What items did you have in mind to paint and what items did you have in mind to stain? If you can be more specific and post some photos of your model, I am sure you will get answers from members based on personal experiences. Again, welcome aboard. Allan
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Ton Did you check with architectural blueprint firms? It has been some years for me since using them, but I never paid more than $10 per drawing if B&W. Color was higher but, with the exception of the inboard profile drawing, color was unnecessary. Allan
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Dearborn The painted bottom looks great and might be best left as is unless you have accurate looking sheathing. The vast majority of copper bottomed models in the build logs have out-of-scale copper sheathing with the giant pimples or huge etched marks that are supposed to represent 1/4" nails. Amati offers two types, one being the more common out of scale stuff we see on so many models, but they make some realistic materials as well. https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/4392-04-Set-of-Copper-Hull-Plates-17x5mm-1-72-Scale-A4392_04.html#SID=1061 You can also make your own with copper tape which requires no gluing and marking the TINY nail indentations with a properly sized pounce wheel. The pic below is from a build log here at MSW. You can easily see the difference between this realistic plating and the more common plating in the second picture. If you keep in mind these plates were overlapped horizontally and vertically and note the attached with 1/4" nails that have 1/2" heads ( (0.007"at 1:72) you can decide which you feel is more realistic. A photo of nails from the copper sheathing on the Bounty next to a two pence piece is below.
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