allanyed

Hard to tell without a drawing. Sounds like the forward one is for the main sail tack which would first pass through a chesstree on the hull. You would really do yourself a huge favor by getting a copy of Lees' Masting and Rigging or other time period appropriate book as these will help make sense of the many lines and associated items like the through-hull sheaves, fore tack blocks on the bumpkins, chesstrees, etc. I really am not one to spend other people's money, but when it comes to rigging, at least one, good, time-appropriate, source is essential and worth the investment.

Don, Are you going to do other internal planking? If you are you should consider putting on a few ribbands on the hull to hold the frames true while adding the internal planking which would usually start with the limber strakes then the thickstuff, then the lower deck clamp and so forth. When you get to where there are two or three more strakes of thick stuff before you get to the lower deck clamp, CAREFULLY mark the run of the strakes of clamps. Keep in mind that in your time frame, the deck clamps were likely mortised to allow the deck beams to be let down into the top of the clamp about one inch. As these will likely not be seen unless you are leaving openings so an observer can see down into the model. If you forgo letting the beams down into the clamps, it is not a horrible thing to skip this, but 0.02" (1") would be noticeable if someone looked for this. If you are only going to add the strakes of clamps, adding the ribbands is still a good idea so the clamps are not twisting and flexing the frames when being installed. The clamps (and other internal planking) should be pre-bent or soaked thoroughly then temporarily installed until dry, then removed and then glued in place, one strake at a time as they will swell while still wet. Id secured while wet there will be gaps between strakes.

Thanks Pat, Carvings are being done as carvings, and painted decorative work is what I was not happy with. Decal paper has never worked for me so I went with paper, and now archival paper types as they appear to have a history of good longevity. Painting on paper is not new, it was really a study I wanted to do in what kind of paper worked best for painting the freizes and panels. I drew the items, in this case the fleur de lis with the CAD program as a guide for painting, but the detail was so small and difficult for me even with 4X magnifier and nearly single hair brush I thought just using the CAD drawing would be worth a try and it is far neater in appearance. Using a top coat that is compatible with the ink is another matter . Varnish, poly, shellac or ???? Any experiences you or others have would be very welcome. I do have some paper/scroll work decorations on a model that I built in 2006 that was coated with clear non-glossy polyurethane and it has shown no signs of degradation at all so lacking other experiences I would go this route. Thanks again.

Mark, I bought the samples of several types of archival paper and printed and painted on each of them. The two best results were printed rather than printed and painted or just painted. I drew the fleur-de-lis on TurboCad with various colors then printed on each of the six different archival paper samples. The samples that were painted on top of the printed samples were not nearly as neat in the details even using a super small high quality brush. Of course shaky old hands may have had a part in that. The thinnest paper samples would have been good when gluing to the wood, but the printing was not nearly as crisp. I copied in place to double up on the color saturation but saw no difference on any of the samples. Some of the paper samples were pH neutral, and these were very thin but the color was not as crisp. Painting on these was no problem, but for these tiny pics, they did not look as good as the printed as mentioned above. For other items I will likely paint on the thinner paper, or at least give it a try. Two best results are below showing the single layer print on the paper identified. Each blue rectangle is 5/16" wide by 3/8" high.

I was not happy with some of the painted items for the stern, specifically the fleur-de-lis and did a little experimenting. Rather than paint directly on the wood I bought several types of archival paper and printed and painted samples. The two best results were printed rather than painted. I drew the fleur-de-lis on TurboCad with various colors then printed on each of six different archival paper samples. The samples that were painted on top of the printed samples were not nearly as neat in the details even using a super small high quality brush. Of course shaky old hands may have had a part in that. The thinnest paper samples would have been good when gluing to the wood, but the printing was not nearly as crisp. I copied in place to double up on the color saturation but saw no difference on any of the samples. Two best results are below showing the single layer print on the paper identified. Each blue rectangle is 5/16" wide by 3/8" high.

This was posted in the Nautical/Naval History forum but is not being seen by many so I hope it is not wrong to post it here as well. The gentleman doing the podcasts and gaining some traction on having a TV series produced about Nelson would love to see our membership sign on. I received the following email from Adam Preston and as you can see, this could turn into a wonderful series that most of us would probably want to watch. Also note his interest in our hobby. Hugh Bonneville of Downton Abby fame is promoting the Trafalgar series as well. Hope he plays Nelson!! Dear Allan Thank you for getting in touch - and for your offer to help with the project ‘Trafalgar’. My current target is to get 10,000 sign ups at www.trafalgar.tv because that is the kind of number that will get broadcast executives sitting upright. I am now at 1050 so I have a way to go. To help spread the word I have created a podcast which I launched on the weekend. You can subscribe here https://shows.acast.com/trafalgar-squared please share this with anyone you know who is interested in this subject area. The podcast has already had 500 downloads from all over the world (as many in North America as the UK) I am interested in the documents you mention Allan - I am a great devourer of this kind of stuff - do you have them as a PDF or something that can be mailed? I am hoping to one day do a podcast episode about the world of model ship making and am slowly gathering info on that. Am I right in thinking this is an area of expertise for you? With best wishes Adam

Marcus, You should be pleased with a draw plate but do not go cheap. One of the best is from Jim Byrnes and is $25. There are Chinese ones for half the price and they are worth less than half the price. As is normal, you get what you pay for. I am sure there are other good quality ones out there and someone may give some info on them for you to check out. Bamboo skewers are cheap and available everywhere. Just split them as many times as you can with a sharp blade until the strips will fit in the largest hole on the plate and then go from there. As you have not done this before, one common mistake is drawing the piece in the wrong direction. Push through the flat side of the plate and draw/pull out the other side.

We had something very similar in the US in the 20th century. We called it the draft, but it was pretty much the same thing sans the kidnapping part.

TNWNHM Welcome aboard. Hope you can give an easier moniker to address you 😀 Your photos show that one does not require a full blown shop of tools and huge workspace to build a great looking ship model. They are of course preferable, but not at all are they a must.

Marcus, assuming the inside diameter is .65mm, the size is about right for treenails in a hull for 1:48 scale. For smaller scales it is oversized. You probably need something like a 21 gage needle like those made by Becton Dickinson and others. They go down to much smaller diameter as well. Have you tried making treenails with a draw plate? Bamboo treenails are incredibly strong and easy to make with a good draw plate such as the one from Jim Byrnes. With a typical hull having upwards of 10,000 treenails, making them with a hypodermic needle is a task most would not want to try. If your scale is 3/16=1 inch or smaller, treenails will ruin the look and probably be better left off. Many otherwise beautiful planking jobs on the hull and decks have been ruined with oversized treenails. There are a number of posts on making these using different methods and different materials from fishing line to wire to different wood species.

Victor, Welcome to this motley crew of ours!!! Your wife is also a lucky one in that you have a good hobby to keep you out of her space with retirement coming to you. This is an issue with retirement for some folks I know. If I am in the house too long, I'll hear a comment from the admiral about maybe needing to glue a piece of wood in the shop or some such and assuring me that there is no need to rush back into the house. You now have thousands of new friends that will help you on your journey, especially if it is to the dark side, (a fully framed scratch build) Your previous work is wonderful. Hope you kept a few scalpel handles and blades, suture scissors, hemostats and the like. They all will be handy.

Don, You can also study Druxey's build log on a boat that should be of a lot of help to you. It is the 28 foot cutter in the scratch build forum 1851-1900. As to room and space, this was specified in boat contracts. An example of a portion of a contract for two 23 foot yawls follows. Spelling, punctuation and grammar are as found in the original handwritten contract. Contracted this 24th July 90 with the Honoble Thomas Willshaw, Esqre one of the Principall Officers & Commrs of their Majties Navy, for & behalf of their Majties, by me Robert Smith of Langstone Shipwrts and doe hereby oblidge myselfe to build & deliver into their Majties Stores at Portsth: free of all charge by the latter and on Augst next ensueing the two Yawles undermentioned of the Dimensions and Scantlings & each fitted with the particulars folling (viz) Long Broad Deepe Yawles of 23ft: ----- 5ft: 7:ins ------ 2ft: 5ins ------- Two Railes of the upper strakes to be made out of the wholewood up and downe Gunnels ............................................................ Keelson 6: ins. broade of 1½ inch planks, timbers of 1½ inch wth 13 ins Room and Space, & 10 inch Scarphs, ..................................................

Michael, With 40K members here at MSW, we can make the TV series happen by joining the Trafalgar Squared group and giving Adam ammunition to get the producers to invest in this series. I would LOVE to see this turn into a high quality television series and hopefully Hugh Bonneville (anyone that watched Downton Abbey will know him) will play a major role as he is apparently on board with this project.

Thank you for posting this. Are you any relation to Kroum Batchvarov, professor of Maritime Archaeology at UConn? Thanks again.

There were several types of Establishments from the British Admiralty including scantlings for each rate of ship, armament, and boats. Probably others as well. These were all revised over time so you need to use ones appropriate to the vessel in which you would be studying. Cheers

Further to the above, I emailed back and forth with Adam Preston who is leading the project. He wrote the following: Dear Allan Thank you for getting in touch - and for your offer to help with the project ‘Trafalgar’. My current target is to get 10,000 sign ups at www.trafalgar.tv because that is the kind of number that will get broadcast executives sitting upright. I am now at 1050 so I have a way to go. To help spread the word I have created a podcast which I launched on the weekend. You can subscribe here https://shows.acast.com/trafalgar-squared please share this with anyone you know who is interested in this subject area. The podcast has already had 500 downloads from all over the world (as many in North America as the UK) I am interested in the documents you mention Allan - I am a great devourer of this kind of stuff - do you have them as a PDF or something that can be mailed? I am hoping to one day do a podcast episode about the world of model ship making and am slowly gathering info on that. Am I right in thinking this is an area of expertise for you? With best wishes Adam https://www.trafalgar.tv https://shows.acast.com/trafalgar-squared https://www.patreon.com/adampreston?fan_landing=true Any ideas on how we can the word out to our 40,000 members to reach out to Adam and the project?

Don, Going with the launch, cutter, and yawl mentioned by Vancouver, the actual lengths for the boats for a survey ship are probably anyone's guess. Looking at 6th rate Navy fighting ships in your time frame, they would have carried five boats, but if you only go with three for a 99 foot survey ship, fewer boats may be correct. The Establishment called for a 21 foot launch, 22 foot pinnace, 18 foot cutter and two 24 foot cutters. Lacking better contemporary information, and considering only three boats, maybe consider a 21 to 24 foot foot launch, 18 to 25 foot cutter, and a 16 or 18 foot yawl. All scantlings for all of these sizes and types are on pages 58-61 in May's The Boats of Man of War. I think if you go with boats of similar size you cannot be faulted for your choices. Search the Collections site of RMG for drawings that fit the time of Discovery. One example of many yawl drawings is https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86917.html Again, for accurate dimensional information on about every part from keel to thwarts of these boats can be found in May's book which is probably the best book out there concerning English ships' boats. (There are used copies on Amazon for $11.) Unless a boat was hung from stern davits, I don't think they would have ever sat athwartships.

I agree with Roger, saw dust from ebony is not good for your health, and toxicity varies with the type of ebony. Breathing sawdust from any wood species is not a good thing, but ebony is one of the worst to be breathing. In addition to the toxicity, it is miserable to work with for model shipbuilding. It cannot be bent without a lot of difficulty even with steam, water, heat, etc.

David, Beautiful workmanship!!! I agree that scraping is a great method to use compared to sanding. I also use chisels, but at times I like to snap off the tip of a used up scalpel blade and grind a sharp edge on the end. Any hardened steel blade does the trick. This is much more precise in the tight spots as well as on bigger flat surfaces compared to just sanding where dried glue might be hiding. It is very easy to see if any glue spots are missed by just lightly wetting the suspect area.

Thank you Noel, very happy you found and posted this. Looks like they have actor Hugh Bonneville involved. He was fantastic in Downtown Abby, one of the best TV series ever produced!!!! If this project is half as good, it should be a hit!

Will do Mark, May take a week or two as I am only ordering it today. Darn freight is $12 for a $2 sampling, but they do credit it towards the next order so I guess it makes some kind of sense.

Thanks Chuck. A quick search came up with the following supplier who offers samples of different papers to try for $2. https://www.archivalmethods.com/category/paper-tissue. I am going to give these a try to see which is/are best for this kind of application. Fixatives with UV protection were easy to find on Amazon and at Michaels which is always a fun place to visit when I need paints or other goodies. Thanks again!

Thank you for posting this Richard. Very simple, yet effective techniques we can all use for a couple dollars/euros/pounds. I will look at his other videos to see if he gets into using north light (if you are in the northern hemisphere) My preference is to use a curved background as he shows in this video, but just using photo backdrop paper taped to a wall on the north side of our house so there is no direct sunlight.

It depends and is pretty complex, depending on if oral address, written, direct conversation, introductions, etc. Eldest sons of dukes, marquesses, and earls use their father' most senior subsidiary title. It would be My Lord or Lord Taylor for example. For Dukes, they would be addressed as Duke or your Grace, but his younger son Brett would be addressed as Lord Brett. It really is complex but if anyone is interested in the details, Google -- Forms of Address in the United Kingdom. Knighthood of course is a different thing altogether. It is Sir followed by first name, but his wife would be Lady followed by last name. If she was knighted, but not her husband she would be Dame followed by first name and her husband would be Mr. followed by last name with no distinction of his wife being knighted.

Giampiero, I am saving this in my model folders for the next time I have to rig stays. Great work.