allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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David, Beautiful workmanship!!! I agree that scraping is a great method to use compared to sanding. I also use chisels, but at times I like to snap off the tip of a used up scalpel blade and grind a sharp edge on the end. Any hardened steel blade does the trick. This is much more precise in the tight spots as well as on bigger flat surfaces compared to just sanding where dried glue might be hiding. It is very easy to see if any glue spots are missed by just lightly wetting the suspect area.- 433 replies
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Thank you Noel, very happy you found and posted this. Looks like they have actor Hugh Bonneville involved. He was fantastic in Downtown Abby, one of the best TV series ever produced!!!! If this project is half as good, it should be a hit!
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Will do Mark, May take a week or two as I am only ordering it today. Darn freight is $12 for a $2 sampling, but they do credit it towards the next order so I guess it makes some kind of sense.
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Thanks Chuck. A quick search came up with the following supplier who offers samples of different papers to try for $2. https://www.archivalmethods.com/category/paper-tissue. I am going to give these a try to see which is/are best for this kind of application. Fixatives with UV protection were easy to find on Amazon and at Michaels which is always a fun place to visit when I need paints or other goodies. Thanks again!
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Simple guide to product photos
allanyed replied to Rik Thistle's topic in Photographing your work. How to do this.
Thank you for posting this Richard. Very simple, yet effective techniques we can all use for a couple dollars/euros/pounds. I will look at his other videos to see if he gets into using north light (if you are in the northern hemisphere) My preference is to use a curved background as he shows in this video, but just using photo backdrop paper taped to a wall on the north side of our house so there is no direct sunlight. -
It depends and is pretty complex, depending on if oral address, written, direct conversation, introductions, etc. Eldest sons of dukes, marquesses, and earls use their father' most senior subsidiary title. It would be My Lord or Lord Taylor for example. For Dukes, they would be addressed as Duke or your Grace, but his younger son Brett would be addressed as Lord Brett. It really is complex but if anyone is interested in the details, Google -- Forms of Address in the United Kingdom. Knighthood of course is a different thing altogether. It is Sir followed by first name, but his wife would be Lady followed by last name. If she was knighted, but not her husband she would be Dame followed by first name and her husband would be Mr. followed by last name with no distinction of his wife being knighted.
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Giampiero, I am saving this in my model folders for the next time I have to rig stays. Great work.
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Rigging Confusions - Lifts, Halyards and More, Oh My!
allanyed replied to rraisley's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Rick, Where the lines terminate is always troublesome as there is virtually no contemporary information on this, at least that I could ever find, other than contemporary models. From what I understand, this varied quite a bit from ship to ship, captain to captain. Lees does show belaying points of several vessels and often describes this in the writing but otherwise I have not seen much for the 18th century or early 19th century that would apply to Victory. This includes Petersson's book which, again, does not necessarily work for Victory but would probably be OK for most fifth rates of the late 18th century. -
Rigging Confusions - Lifts, Halyards and More, Oh My!
allanyed replied to rraisley's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Rick, Peterson's book is based on one contemporary model of a specific ship/rate/era (36 gun frigate late 18th century) and will not always be accurate for Victory compared to other books. Petersson's sketches are good and pretty easy to follow if you are building a fifth rate from that time frame. -
A couple posts were written regarding painting frieze work on paper versus directly on the model on Siggi's fantastic Tiger 1747 build log. Posting the subject here rather than bog down his log. I have painted mainly directly on the model at times, but on paper at times as well. Recently painted small fleur de lis directly on the model and was not happy at all so did them again on paper. Based on anyone's experience or knowledge on this, what is the best paper to use? I presume thinner is better so it is not as noticeable when applied to the model. Also, concerns about what will hold acrylic artist paint best without degrading quickly. I have at least one example where painting on bonded paper then finished with a poly coat has shown no signs of degradation for just over 15 years so far. The reason I originally chose bonded paper was that it is commonly used in art work involving pen and ink and/or ink markers due to its strength as it is made of at least some rag fiber. A former art teacher gave me that advice but I am open to other proven ideas. Also, in place of India Ink or paint for black strakes, does anyone have any plus or minus experience/comments on using permanent marker pens to stain the strake before it is set on the hull?
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Thanks Jaager, I agree as I don't believe there are any 17th century ship models with cant frames as they did not come into general use until the 18th century (about 1715, according to Goodwin)
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DSmith, Petrejus' book has always come with high regards, but as it is about a brig of war it may not be appropriate for the Bounty which Dave is building, or other ships of various sizes or eras. Still, it is my understanding that it would be a good book to have if building a Cruizer class brig of the early 19th century such as Irene.
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Dave, Yes the book is LEES, J. (1979): The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860.- 196 p., London (Conway Maritime Press). Eberhard, kudos on your extensive list! Considering English ships in the 18th century, as there were a lot of changes in the first decade or so, of all of those on your items on your list, if you could only pick two, which would they be? Thanks
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Dave, Taking information from Lees' Masting and Rigging, main stays and main preventer stays, fore and fore preventer stays, and mizen stays of course were commonly rigged with a mouse. The main and fore stays and preventer stays were wormed, but not served from abut six feet below the mouse downward before being snaked together. Note that the snaking of the stays came into use about 1700, and then mainly during war time. I have never seen backstays with a mouse, perhaps others here have. The back stays were rigged around the masts similarly to the way the shrouds were rigged to the masts normally having matching back stays port and starboard. I cannot find any information that the back stays were wormed but they would have been wormed, parceled and served where they went round the mast and running a short distance below where they go round the mast. I know everyone has a budget, myself included, but Lees Masting and Rigging would be my choice for rigging if I could only have one book on rigging English vessels.
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Dave, I went through a lot of photos of contemporary models and cannot find even one with served backstays. Then again, a lot of these may have been re-rigged over the past few hundred years. They do mostly, if not all, have the foremost shrouds served their length so attention was paid to such serving. Again, is this absolute? Probably not, but without contemporary information indicating otherwise, I would not serve the back stays.
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Dave, Not sure this helps, but in Lees' Masting and Rigging, he makes no mention of serving standing backstays, breast backstays or running breast backstays. By the same token he details the worming and serving of the foremost shrouds and other parts of other lines so MAYBE, the serving or not serving of the backstays was not an absolute. Assuming (not usually a good thing) the purpose of the serving was to protect the lines from chaffing from the sails, serving backstays does not make sense. If they were served and If not for chaffing protection, what would be the purpose of serving the backstays? Curious minds, etc. 😀
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Don, simply put the station lines that you see in the body plan are not the shape/size of any frame except for those square frames that happen to fall on a station line. For the cant frames, none of the station lines are the shape of a cant frame as the cant frames are, well ...... canted..... and the station lines are not. If you read Wayne Kempson's article in the Articles Data Base here at MSW, he explains in more detail on pages 74-79 how to draw the cant frames.
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Thanks guys. Yep Ed, she went to Bristol Marine in Maine who is rebuilding the Ernestina and who also got the Boothbay 65 a few months earlier for their investor presentations. Great client!
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I agree with Piet and would say do not apply any type of finish until all parts are removed from the sheet, the char from the laser is removed and it is glued in place. For just one example, the cheeks of the gun carriages have axles glued to the bottoms. If you apply a finish, it will go in the cut slots of each piece and have to be removed before gluing. Also, some parts will be painted. Same problem, it will get in the cut slots and have to be removed. I just don't see how applying a finish before hand will have any benefit, and it definitely could cause problems.
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Jaager When you say no butt joints, do you mean they were made of a single piece of timber or with futtocks but with chocks or scarphs? Would love to see more contemporary information on this, especially for the earlier part of the18th century when cants first came into use. Thanks
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Marcus, I hope you report back with your findings regarding comparison of English and Dutch rigging sizes. From a practical standpoint, I would think they will be similar even if not exactly the same. Thanks in advance......
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Bonjour Casi and welcome to MSW. I had a set of the CdeM plans from Ancre years ago I was afraid it was too big a project for me. I look forward to seeing your build log.
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Craig, you are correct for most of the 19th century as a lot changed when the Seppings system came into use common use about 1820 based on what I read in Goodwin, page 18. "The use of scarphs or anchor pieces was done away with, and the joints were made by means of dowels pinning both butts of the futtocks together " which seems to be as you describe, but not until about 1820.
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Also consider purchasing a copy of Lees' Masting and Rigging which will give you a lot of information. For your time period I rely mostly on both Lees' and Anderson's books. Lees gives a lot of detailed illustrations compared to Anderson, but both are extremely useful. Closest I ever got to a carrier was when I was stuck on an AO for a few days tp run casualty drills in the engine room while doing Navy Reserve duty and we spent a day refueling Saratoga in 1971. She was small compared to new carriers but it was awesome, especially watching flight ops when they were landing aircraft . Submarines, ohhhh the claustrophobia would be a killer compared to the surface merchant vessels I had the good fortune to sail aboard. Thank you very much for your service Cliff.
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Marcus, Similar to Monfeld's formulas, and lacking other information, the formulas in Lees Masting and Rigging will give you every mast and spar dimension, and rope circumference from 1625 to 1860. He starts with formulas for various time periods to find the main mast length, then all mast and spar dimensions as well as all rope circumferences can be found easily. As has been reviewed here at MSW recently, go to the Articles Data base here at MSW and bring up Danny Vadas' spread sheet. It appears to be the same information that Lees gives with one exception. The Vadas spread sheet cannot be used for the period from 1670-1711 as his base formula was not done correctly so all dimensions that follow are wrong as well for this time period. If you have a vessel in that time period, Lees formulas work.
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