allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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This is a euphroe and it is an easy piece to make. From Lees' Masting and Rigging page 44. The euphroe tackle comprised a single block stropped to the euphroe block and another block seized to the stay. The standing part of the fall was made fast to the upper block. The running part, after reeving through both blocks was either hitched to the stay below the lower block or was made fast round the tackle. Allan
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Forming a rabbet
allanyed replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I lived with a few chisels up to about 1/4" for a long time, then after seeing a number of recommendations here at MSW, I bought a full set from Mihail in Russia. They are absolutely gorgeous and will last many lifetimes. The set includes 23 chisels and gouges in sizes from 0.5mm wide to 3.5mm wide. I have not been in contact for a long time, but the email I have for him: mihail.kirsanov@mail.ru See pic below. Allan
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Tips for the Second-Time Model Builder
allanyed replied to Melissa T.'s topic in Wood ship model kits
Hi Melissa, I agree with the first sentence. 🙂 Just one more opinion, hope you don't mind, but I do not agree with the second sentence. I have rarely had a problem with PVA holding a piece in place after a minute with my fingers when there is no room for a clamp if the parts are shaped and fitted together properly, including planks. Allan -
Hi David, I am not sure I understand this David. The keel on a 38, based on the scantlings in David Steel in The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture was 18 inches deep. Add to this the false keel which was 6 inches thick, this is about 0.38". The garboard was about 7 inches thick at the rabbet on a 38 but shaped to match the rabbet so took up closer to 5 inches. The copper would be paper thin at scale. This leaves over a 9/32" of keel exposed so I am not sure why there would be a problem holding the model on a building board or a clamp. Allan
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Securing Ropes Wrapped Around Masts
allanyed replied to acaron41120's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi Allen, From David Lees' Masting and Rigging page 2, "Wooden hoops were nailed to the mast at the top and the bottom of each woolding to serve as a protection and to help keep the wooldings in position on the mast." Allan -
Forming a rabbet
allanyed replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
So true. The angle of the tool is fixed, but the angle of the rabbet is dynamic. The only place where it remains the same for more than one frame is in the dead flat. The angle change at the bow is a lot, but at the stern it is even more so. Chisels are my preferred method as my set from Mihail goes down to 0.5mm. Allan
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Druxey Great tip, thank you. Do you know if yellow ochre tubed artist paint would work as well? Allan
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Some members hopefully will find the following article to be fascinating. Even small things like limber holes in the frames where they cross the keel made the article an interesting read. https://www.academia.edu/11506189/Frames_Futtocks_and_a_Fistful_of_Coins_the_Final_Report_of_the_Corolla_Wreck_North_Carolinas_Oldest_Exposed_Shipwreck?email_work_card=title Allan
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Henry, as you are talking about silver soldering, you may be relegated to using a high temp flame. I have used high temperature melt point silver solder pastes with different melt points for multipart assemblies and will continue to do so IF the parts are large enough not to melt in the process. For small delicate parts I have gone to Solder-It a low temp silver solder paste and a soldering iron and delighted with the results and ease of use. Allan.
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Hi Mark She really is a pretty old thing! Probably just me, but your photos of the vessel and the line itself looks like a scale model, not a full sized yacht that you mention. Large scale to be sure, but it looks to be more or less 1 meter long as you mention. Assuming the 1.5mm diameter line you show would be about 2.5 inches in circumference at full size (20mm dia), the scale seems to be about 1:12 not 1:1. Still, an interesting model that you are lucky to have. Allan
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Welcome aboard MSW I hope you will share some of your sea stories from living aboard for 12 years! Allan
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Welcome to MSW Giuseppe! I believe this kit is an Admiralty style model, not rigged. Some folks show the mast stubs which I think your kit provides, but most contemporary Admiralty style models do not have them. Some samples below. Allan
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Great question, and I hope someone has an answer. Looking at the below drawings from David Lees' Masting and Rigging book the seizings look to be between 0.16 and 0.20 times the diameter of the shroud that is being seized which is right in line with the figure Grant gives, but I can find nothing on the circumferences of serving line. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Jim, Where are you in Florida? There is am extremely nice group in the Naples area that meet on Saturdays that I am sure would be happy to lend guidance as you need it. Allan
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This thread has brought up an interesting point. There are servings on a variety of rope sizes on any given ship. I just spent a good amount of time researching but have come up with nothing on the circumference of serving lines. I found reference to the number of strands but nothing on diameter or circumference. Is there such a chart with ratios of serving line size to the rope size on which it is to be used? Until now, I have gone with what looks right, but I wonder if, like in many things on these ships of ours, there was an established list or at least a rule of thumb. Allan
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Hi Andy, Thank you for sharing this. This looks like a very nice kit overall. I noticed that this kit has more frames than many of the others that you mentioned, which is a big plus. I believe a 30 foot launch, which would have been carried on a 64 in 1781, would have had more frames that were sided 2.25" but what they provided is much closer to an actual launch than some others shown on build logs here. Looking forward to your next posts! Allan
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Warm welcome to MSW Todd. You won't find a more friendly or helpful collection of ship modelers! Allan
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Width in the bend
allanyed replied to rudybob's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I agree. Would you consider reading the article on spiling by David Antscherl in the Articles database here at MSW? It very clearly explains lining off the hull and spiling the planks. Allan -
Tying stays and shrouds to foremast top
allanyed replied to Scotty W's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I was going to ask you what that is supposed to be. I thought maybe a stay of some kind or a swifter, but then there would be two of them, one port, one starboard and a swifter would be just above the other shrouds. So far, I cannot find anything like this in any book on rigging so it might just be whoever did the drawing did not do enough research. Stuff happens. Allan
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Ahhhh Capella, One of the nice things about a first layer is that you can practice proper planking techniques that will help with the second layer efforts. Sorry to say this but I would remove all the planking and start over after studying various planking articles in the MSW database and watching the four part video on planking by Chuck Passaro. You cannot get good results using edge set planks without pre-shaping them as shown in the video or spiling the planks from sheets of wood rather than using strip stock as shown in the article in the data base by David Antscherl. Go to https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22975-chuck-passaros-planking-videos-where-are-they/ and scroll down to the second post to find the videos or find them online. You will be amazed on how simple planking can be including no need for fillers. Allan
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Tying stays and shrouds to foremast top
allanyed replied to Scotty W's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi Scotty, They may be too small and break off when you tighten the rigging. You can make them larger and lower the location of the eyes as the kit plans may not be right. If you feel you want the eyes as in the plans and thus have to use small wedges consider cutting a slot through the mast and inserting a solid piece which is less likely to break. See sketch below. Note that the order of dressing on your plans of the topmast standing rigging looks wrong. As the U.S. followed British practice in most cases normally all the shrouds are set up first followed by the stay, then the back stay. Allan
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Tying stays and shrouds to foremast top
allanyed replied to Scotty W's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
While this may not be exact, it should be somewhat close as it is based on drawings from Lees' Masting and Rigging for your time period for British vessels. Allan
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Great advice. He did his research so if he is giving block dimensions, I would not question them without contrary information from other contemporary sources. Allan
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You are correct. Larger ships had more than one filling room, and each would have a light room with one or two lanterns. Lavery shows a lot of details on these areas in Part VII of The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War Allan
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Hi Gregory I agree with you that the block sizes for many/most ships, are based on the size of the rope. But, in the case of the Bluenose, the only thing I could find were block sizes in Chapelle's book on schooners as he does not give the line sizes. Different tack, but that is all I could find for these vessels. If he had listed line sizes instead, it should be the same for finding the block sizes as we are used to doing. Allan
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