allanyed
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You have convinced me to try this method on my next go at a ship's boat. I can see how this can be used with the floors and futtocks being set up as separate pieces as well. It will be interesting to see how it compares with traditional plug former methods at 1:48 or smaller. Anxiously waiting for your next installment!! Allan -
Super warm welcome to MSW EE. Were you anywhere near Goldsmith Inlet in Peconic? It has been a few years now, but there was some great clamming in that little bay! And then you wind up in the land of Chesapeake Bay salty bottoms - you are a lucky guy!! Starting with the GB dory is a very smart move. I will not be surprised to see you tackle a bugeye or skipjack down the road. Allan
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Hi Grant What ship, year, nationality? By the way, Luigi Boccherini's Celebrated Minuet in cello concerto No. 9 is one of my favorite classical pieces. Allan
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I know clue and clew have been used interchangeably but from what I can find clew came first. When did clew become clue? The spelling clue is first attested mid-15c. The sense shift is originally in reference to the clew of thread given by Ariadne to Theseus to use as a guide out of the Labyrinth in Greek mythology. What this has to do with the corner of a sail, I have no idea. Allan
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Mark, What you have relayed makes sense. Sorry, I missed what vessel you were building. Allan
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I may wrong but I am pretty sure powder casts were only stored in the magazine foward (and maybe in the hanging magazine aft on larger ships), not in the open hold. If you are building a cross section model that is near midships, I am pretty sure there would not be any powder casks. Depending on the era there were charcoal beds in the magazine area on which powder was stored to absorb moisture to aid in keeping the powder dry. As to upright or on their sides, I believe that the barrels below the orlop and platforms were usually on their sides, but the powder casks in the magazines may be a different story. Allan
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
allanyed replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I just found this on the internet. I like the first material but would not waste the second suggestion on labels Rubbing Alcohol or Vodka If you want to know how to get sticker residue off plastic, wood, or glass, rubbing alcohol is an effective solvent that's safe for most surfaces. Vodka is a good substitute. Wet a paper towel or clean rag with rubbing alcohol, and rub the residue to lift it off. For stubborn stickers, lay an alcohol-soaked rag on the area, and let it sit for several minutes to soften the residue. Use the rag to rub off what's left behind. -
EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
allanyed replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I usually use a stiff back razor and it goes quickly. I never tried any solvent but I suppose one of us should try a test piece and use acetone or alcohol or some other solvent to see how that works out. Grant's idea sure seems to have merit as well. I would try Scotch tape or similar as it is smoother than masking tape and even easier to remove without residue. Allan -
Mic It may be better to contact Michael directly. https://seawatchbooks.com/pages/contact. Allan
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Welcome to MSW William Please do post a little intro about yourself in the new member forum here at MSW. Again, welcome aboard. Allan
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3D cannon barrels
allanyed replied to allanyed's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Thanks Montaigne. There are a couple others that have expressed interest in helping as well. Hopefully we can build a little team and get some great things made for the members. Please PM with your contact information and will I forward the beginnings that I already have when I get back home this weekend. THANKS AGAIN Allan -
Welcome to MSW, and congrats. You have made perhaps the best possible choice of models for starting into this fabulous hobby of ours. Don't be afraid to sttart a build log and never hesitate to ask questions. Then again, you may get many more answers than you want, what with 43,000+ members😀 Allan
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You speak the truth. Even within the US it is spotty most times and can be downright awful during the holidays. Allan
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I am away from my books so did some digging on the net regarding gun powder barrel dimensions. Was there a standard? The only thing I found so far is from The British Powder Cask by Len Heidenbrecht, 1998 The exact dimensions of the powder barrels is a bit of a problem, for in 1779 it is reported as 16" at the bulge and 30" to 32" long, making a tall thin cask. This seems to change by 1813 as it is described as 17.36" at the bilge and 21.62" in height. The author does not state his source in the article I found on-line. IF this is correct, at 1:24 the barrel is only a little over 5/8" maximum diameter. A 1:24 scale barrel surely can be done, and it sounds like Jaager's description should work. And, I will probably want to give this a try down the road. But, for others why not chuck a piece of dowel in a lathe or drill and file/sand the shape. The top and bottom can be recessed by carving out a bit of wood and staves can be represented by scribing lines with a scalpel or hobby knife blade. Any thoughts out there on what easily acquired wood or other material would work to represent the withy? I am thinking slivers of bamboo, but holly that is soaked in water is super flexible and might work as well. Thread or maybe copper wire that is painted a light color might be easier to twist together than wood to represent the sticks of withy. Allan
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Welcome to MSW Roger You might consider posting a little intro about yourself in the New Member forum. Note that you have posted in a threat that is 10 years old so it may not get a lot of notice. (I hope I am wrong😀) Consider starting a build log in the appropriate place with photos of your dilemma. Good luck in your endeavor. Allan
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Hi Kerry Did you make your own launch and/or cutter and jolly boats that Bounty carried? The reason I ask is that in looking at photos on-line at this kit the boat that is shown looks more like a pinnace than a launch and the her scantlings are pretty far off from those based on contemporary information. Allan
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Further to Glenn's post on the breechings size, which is spot on, the following may be of interest, if even only as a guide for rigging guns. Allan
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Funniest thing posted here (other than the Jokes forum) in a long time. Thanks for the smile. Druxey, I have not doubt whatsoever that withy was the standard. But, why not copper or lead. Cost?? Thanks Allan
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3D cannon barrels
allanyed replied to allanyed's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
The below is the one that I have had made so far. Note that the trunnions for this particular time period are tapered. Barrel 111.3mf -
Hi Mark, What type/size of barrel/cask and what era? Gunpowder, meat, water, etc? Allan
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Take a look at some planking expansion drawings. There are several of them on the RMG Collections site, including Squirrel. You will see the shape of the garboard very clearly. While this is for a ship, it applies to a boat as well. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-83495 I believe there are some on the WikiCommons site as well and may be in high resolution. Allan
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3D cannon barrels
allanyed replied to allanyed's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Thanks Druxey As with most, if not all, members here, I have gained so much knowledge from others, including you, this seems like it might be a useful way to say thanks. I truly hope someone takes me up on this opportunity. Allan -
I realize it is very easy to say when it is not one's own money, but assuming the second layer is the open grained brittle walnut or faux walnut many kits provide, you might want to consider setting it aside and getting some good quality wood for the second planking such as Alaskan cedar, castello, Swiss pear, holly et al. If you are going to wind up with the yellow ocher, black wales, and copper bottom, the wood color is not as important as the quality and ease in which it can be shaped. Basswood, or even poplar, which is cheap by comparison, is easier to work with than the crispy walnut some kit makers include. Allan
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What??? No cutters or yawls? 😀 Your boats do indeed look very nice! If you do make a lapstrake like a cutter, you will need to be very careful to taper every strake so each one ends at the rabbet rather than the middle of the boat. With the carvel build this is covered with paint so not so noticeable but is a different story with lapstrake planking. Planking boats pretty much uses the same principles as planking the ship so is not a difficult endeavor. Thanks for sharing your work with us. Allan
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I have done one 3D drawing with help from a member here of a cannon barrel based on English design circa 1690. The results were excellent and the parts that resulted were cheap. A project to consider: 1. I stink at 3D 2. I am somewhat proficient at 2D 3. I have Caruana's book on RN ordnance which has drawings and specs for a few hundred year range 4. I would be happy to draw and provide 2D drawings of all barrel patterns and lengths up to and including the Blomefield pattern in four views at full scale. 5. I would like to work with someone who is willing to spend the time to convert these to 3D in STL or similar format that can be used by a 3D printer. 6. These drawings could then be posted as a collated collection, hopefully in the articles database here at MSW for all members to use to get barrels printed that are era and pattern specific, accurate, and inexpensive. Please PM me if interested in working together on this. Thanks!!! Allan
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