allanyed
-
Posts
8,137 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by allanyed
-
Ain't that the truth!!! I imagine more would get into it, but no doubt investment in space and tools can be a major issue. Then again, for tools, add up the cost of 3 or 4 high quality kits and this would get a nice little shop going. -
Hi Malcolm Really lovely work overall. Those laser cut lights in the last photo look nice. Is the material wood, plywood, or something else? What is the thickness wood sheet from which it is cut? The reason I ask is that maybe time for me to look for a local laser cutting person to give this a try. Thanks Allan
-
Welcome to the fray!! Allan
-
There are a lot of drawings of Dutch fluyts on the internet. I have no idea as to the accuracy including the one below. Allan
-
Hi Scotty Glad to see you started the build log. I really appreciate the story behind it and that you picked up the model to see it through to the end! For the future...... consider studying the hull planking tutorial in the articles data base by David Antscherl here at MSW and the four part YouTube videos on planking by Chuck Passaro. You can find them it on-line and in an old post here at MSW https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22975-chuck-passaros-planking-videos-where-are-they/. Rather than go into a long explanation, compare the results of two photos below. In the lower pic, note how all planks are tapered to nearly half their widest point and end at the rabbet. Again, this is something to consider for the future. If your model has two layers of planking, you may want to give it a try for the outer layer. It takes most of us a bunch of do-overs but gets easier with experience. Allan
- 59 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Swift
- Artesania Latina
- (and 1 more)
-
Greetings, new to the site and new to timber ship building.
allanyed replied to Scotty W's topic in New member Introductions
Super warm welcome to MSW. Thank you for sharing your story with us! May I suggest you start a build log for your project text and photos. I would bet you will get more views and invaluable help should you request any. Allan -
37 pages of glorious information and weeks of pondering if transcribing them. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR POSTING. Allan
-
I find it as easy/difficult as carvel built planking. The only part that requires a good bit of extra diligence is the gain as the strakes near their ends. Which brings up a question that I had not considered until now and hopefully some member can answer. For the 17th century through the early 19th century was there gain forward and aft, or only forward? If the latter, is the transom shaped/notched to accept the laps to avoid gaps? Allan Gain
-
That comment brought a pleasant flashback to my time in the seventies working for PPG coatings and resins division and the various grinding mills, mixing, and filling equipment we used. Allan
-
I hope a moderator removes your email address as you are opening a huge can of worms of unsolicited junk for yourself by posting it. You can add your email address to your profile and PM folks. I am writing to you now as I live in SW FL as well. Allan
-
Hi Grant, Sorry to have taken the string off track....I just listened to the Fandango, it is great, thanks for the tip! Also - String quintet in E Op.11, No. 5 Very familiar melody. Allan
-
Hi Montaigne Looking at photos of the kit it looks nice. You may want to study the contemporary drawings of the 23 foot launch at RMG as well. There appear to be some differences in their modern day kit design and the contemporary drawings. Scantlings for the 23 foot launch can be found here at MSW if you want compare contemporary based measurements with those of the kit parts. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33539-23-foot-launch-by-allanyed-bounty-late-18th-century/#comments Allan
-
EE My first ocean scuba dive was around a WWII submarine pier at the north fork but that was in '69 so I have no idea where it was exactly, but it was COLD in April or May. We got no fish there but we did get a deer (with the car) on the way there. Good memories for me and I am sure MANY more for you. Cheers Allan
-
LOL!!!! I need to build a 30 foot long boat, 28 foot pinnace and 18 foot yawl for a 50 gun of 1695. I did the drawings, now just a matter of making sawdust when I have a chance to get to them. At least it is only three, not five or six!! I am pretty sure I will be going with making appropriate plugs to the inside of the frames and bending holly over the plugs versus cutting frames. Still might worth a try cutting a frame or two to see if it can be done. I have some English boxwood that I am sure will work but not enough for all three boats and 50 or 60 frames. Castello might work, but I have some doubts until giving it a go. Thanks for the laugh Craig allan
-
Thanks Craig, I'll do some digging. In the meantime, I am pretty sure at 1:64, this method of construction will be a disaster. We shall see. Allan
-
Possible significant maritime find in England
allanyed replied to BANYAN's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Welcome to MSW Tom Allan -
Craig, My apologies if I missed it, but where did you get the amount of overlap of the floors and futtocks? I know I have seen it somewhere but can't remember where and if it was based on contemporary information. Also, do you know if this construction goes back to the 17th century or did it come about sometime in the 18th century? Thanks Allan
-
You have convinced me to try this method on my next go at a ship's boat. I can see how this can be used with the floors and futtocks being set up as separate pieces as well. It will be interesting to see how it compares with traditional plug former methods at 1:48 or smaller. Anxiously waiting for your next installment!! Allan
-
Super warm welcome to MSW EE. Were you anywhere near Goldsmith Inlet in Peconic? It has been a few years now, but there was some great clamming in that little bay! And then you wind up in the land of Chesapeake Bay salty bottoms - you are a lucky guy!! Starting with the GB dory is a very smart move. I will not be surprised to see you tackle a bugeye or skipjack down the road. Allan
-
Hi Grant What ship, year, nationality? By the way, Luigi Boccherini's Celebrated Minuet in cello concerto No. 9 is one of my favorite classical pieces. Allan
-
I know clue and clew have been used interchangeably but from what I can find clew came first. When did clew become clue? The spelling clue is first attested mid-15c. The sense shift is originally in reference to the clew of thread given by Ariadne to Theseus to use as a guide out of the Labyrinth in Greek mythology. What this has to do with the corner of a sail, I have no idea. Allan
-
Mark, What you have relayed makes sense. Sorry, I missed what vessel you were building. Allan
-
I may wrong but I am pretty sure powder casts were only stored in the magazine foward (and maybe in the hanging magazine aft on larger ships), not in the open hold. If you are building a cross section model that is near midships, I am pretty sure there would not be any powder casks. Depending on the era there were charcoal beds in the magazine area on which powder was stored to absorb moisture to aid in keeping the powder dry. As to upright or on their sides, I believe that the barrels below the orlop and platforms were usually on their sides, but the powder casks in the magazines may be a different story. Allan
-
EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
allanyed replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I just found this on the internet. I like the first material but would not waste the second suggestion on labels Rubbing Alcohol or Vodka If you want to know how to get sticker residue off plastic, wood, or glass, rubbing alcohol is an effective solvent that's safe for most surfaces. Vodka is a good substitute. Wet a paper towel or clean rag with rubbing alcohol, and rub the residue to lift it off. For stubborn stickers, lay an alcohol-soaked rag on the area, and let it sit for several minutes to soften the residue. Use the rag to rub off what's left behind. -
EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
allanyed replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I usually use a stiff back razor and it goes quickly. I never tried any solvent but I suppose one of us should try a test piece and use acetone or alcohol or some other solvent to see how that works out. Grant's idea sure seems to have merit as well. I would try Scotch tape or similar as it is smoother than masking tape and even easier to remove without residue. Allan
Our Emblem ®
